Anybody know the actual venue details yet? Gotta plan next year’s hols.

Get to Endcliffe Park, that’s where the trail starts. A mostly off road route to Ringinglow then head towards Stanedge Pole (sic) via Redmires and go down The Causeway. After that, head to Bamford and join the trail network at Bamford rec (Station Road), there’s a disused railway track (used to build the dams) that climbs to Ladybower. Many routes open up from there.

I’ve had a Sony HDR-AS15 for about 6 months now.

Main advantage for me over the GoPro is image stabilisation – works amazingly well.

Brilliant piece of kit although I’ve had to home-bodge a couple of things but it is superb now.

Removed annoying rattle from loose LCD display
Modified housing to take 37mm filters (max 120 deg angle)
Modified housing to take GoPro system mounts (attaches to chest mount – sticks out a bit but still works as good and the image stabilisation takes care of any extra wobble)

177.02 inc shipping

I’ll maybe start a thread on my mods when I’ve finished them. Still to do the multiple buttons through housing for full control – although wifi seems to make up for that.

One mod I’m scratching my head over is how to remove the unnaturally bright blue skies – what filter do you reckon?

Another gem from the Pinkbike article, referring to the chainring:

Not exactly oval. The shape of it has been drawn to compensate the decrease in power when approaching the dead spot.
This has nothing to do with shimano biopace or rotor Q-ring even though it starts from the same idea : trying to erase the dead spot.

Barkit, I think the word you are looking for is ‘yes’.

Is it April 1st?

Inventors: don’t waste time designing ever-complicated ways to shift derailleurs. Design something that doesn’t need derailleurs at all! Get on with gearbox/internal type systems and make them light, weatherproof and reliable.

Get on with it!

Update:
I took maximusmountain’s suggestion and have just ordered some different size bearings. It may be easier than I thought, just the 15mm adapters to machine which should be very simple.

Basically, I’ve got some Ringle Radium hubs from a Cube Stereo which are 9mm front and I want to use them with 15mm front. Looks like I can do this with minimal machine shop effort.

Try Strava segments OR some twit will have put a video up on youtube or vimeo. I’ve found several that way.
I have scoped out a secret trail not far from my house, gonna keep it secret as long as I can!

Any 34ts around? That’s what I meant to put in the title as I can see no end of 32t, 36t and 38t but no 34t.

I’ve got a 15w rear LED from the same stable as Magicshine. I get compliments from drivers while riding in countryside areas but I don’t know about in town – might get deliberately run over!

damn, just been paid… Thanks easygirl!

not happening now, just as I’m about to buy some brakes! bah!

Source. The best. Blacks might still be doing a complete bladder and rucsac for 25 quid.

There are very few ‘standards’ in cycling.

These are the only ones I can think of:

Bottle cage bolts

The distance between the holes in the frame that said bottle cage bolts go into
(although there is a bit of ‘play’ in most cages!)

The diameter of the water bottle itself

The diameter of the handlebar’s grip and lever attachment area

Chain pitch for derailleur systems

I reckon these ‘standards’ are the most widespread and longest lasting. No-one has successfully tinkered with them in almost 100 years.

When riding as fast as possible on level, bumpy trails with full suss, the feeling is akin to ‘flying’ to me. A full suss allows full power pedalling sat down and the speed-sapping square-edged bumps are ‘dulled’ so I get this feeling of faster and faster acceleration.

if 15 minutes walk is not too far, pm me

I buy top-quality tyres but as excellent fully-inspected etc. part-worns. Currently have Pirelli Cinturato P7s all round for less than £200 fitted. (I decided on these tyres as being the best on the new euro tyre eco-certification thing)
I save about 70% on new price and get at least 2 years out of them. I also don’t get enraged when I totally mince a tyre on some kerb or other street furniture! Imagine trashing a brand new £150 tyre within 2 weeks of fitting – gutted x 10! I just buy another matching part worn and get it fitted all for about £50. More cash available for bike bits!

I bought the car secondhand with a full set of budget tyres fitted – after having almost NO grip in the wet I binned them all!

Try Manitou Tower – light, cheap, reliable and as fit-and-forget as you can get. Manitou have a bad past reputation hence the low price (but so does Marzocchi…) I’ve yet to find any owner who hates them! The qr15 is a bit fiddly but gives a very positive lock on engagement. Small bump plushness is excellent.

I’ve had some green ones in my toolbox from years ago, I’ve been considering installing them on my SB95 which has full outer but I’ve not had any shifting issues so not been tempted to actually be bothered to do it! When I did use them, I always used spray 3-in-1 oil rather than WD40. There’s too much solvent in WD40, can dissolve lube and leave inners too dry afterwards.

I use steel inner and middle rings from 9 speed Shimano Deore chainsets – absolutely no issues. (steel rings means my drivetrain lasts at least a year even in Peaks grit!)

Avid brakes are reversible so US/EU/UK is irrelevant.

Post pics of the matchmakers you have and we can tell what’s wrong. I have a set of Juicy and a set of Elixir matchmakers.

If you have enough momentum, you can get dogs the size of German Shepherds to bounce off your front wheel… ahem.

It’s hilarious when ipod-wearing walkers see you loom alongside them from behind – I’ve had proper loud screams from some!

I have experimented with using camera phones and standard compact cameras in a custom made chest mount. All were horrendous with rolling shutter effect being the main ruiner of movies.
By far the most stable setup is using a proper action cam with chest mount. I currently use a Sony AS15 which has image stabilisation built into the sensor. My experiments in the perfect camera setup continue… How to mount a longitudinal action cam into a chest harness designed for a transverse GoPro style one.

Anything that isn’t a Yeti.

Any bike model named after a sex act or rude body part and has the name in massive letters somewhere on it. (That’s basically all Coves then… Handjob, Stiffy. Very amusing if you’re 13 years old)

Most Konas (because of the daft names)

Anything with less than 10 cogs on the back (unless it’s an internal geared hub)

I tend to buy frames and build up with carefully chosen parts. I like Sram rear mech, cassettes and shifters, Shimano BB and Crank. Crank must have steel rings (2 x 10), Sram chain, Avid brakes. Shimano spd pedals (cheap, easy to use, solid, reliable, CHEAP). Split tube ghetto tubeless.

oops, just read, you need 20mm front – sorry!

I’ve got some Planet X for sale.
click here
I’m travelling from Sheffield to Stratford on Avon on Sunday, returning Monday so could drop them off.
email in profile.

I had a Note mk1. I got rid of it mainly due to poor wifi reception. Data was slow as well. I switched to a HTC Desire and immediately realised the Note was a huge mistake. It was the worst of both worlds. Too big for a phone and too small for a tablet. My advice is get a proper tablet and a proper smartphone.

650b is NOT 27.5 It’s barely 27.

Easton Vice. A bit like the Haven but a bit stronger and with 5mm bolts not 4mm.

Feet first is on my radar too, I went in and discussed possibilities. Nice chap, small friendly type company.

The new Topeak hex-socket multitool thing:
Link
Comes in other flavours but you can tune the kit to only take what actual allen key sizes you need.
It’s a piece of dinky cute engineering!

Avoid the Specialized stuff as well.

60 psi is my ‘curing’ pressure. I’m still playing around with working pressures. I’ve started with 25-ish front and rear. I was getting a bit of rear tyre splatting on waterbars today so had to up it a bit in the rear. I need an accurate gauge tho.
The Ardents are awesome though. Much faster rolling than the HDs I had on previously. I didn’t really detect any less traction.

EDIT: Stan’s fluid.

It’s a front hub. I’m getting it modified because I have a matching set of front and rear hubs in anodised light blue to match my Yeti. The rear hub fits, the front one needs to be modified to fit the 15mm front axle.
I’m hanging on to the hubs for sentimental reasons.

Buy a Gelert hydration pack from Blacks for 20 quid. They come with a Source inner bladder. The best imho. I wouldn’t say repair would be worth it.

Thanks. The one I’m after seems to be 38.99 tho…

send it to me, i’ll pay shipping!

I’m serious btw…

I’ve just discovered Trivago. Managed to find a nice hotel in London for next week. They have University and backpacker hostel rooms on their site.

Stick a waterproof action cam in the font, facing upwards!

I just grew a beard, shoved a led light up my shirt and went as Tony Stark.

check out USA ebay. I bought a 24H Ringle front hub from Bikewagon for 20 quid just to strip it for spares. The advent of 29ers has sort of killed off the demand for anything less than 32H in the aftermarket custom-build wheel world. Especially state-side.
A quick glance reveals: ebay item number 370851549593. Under 30 quid including shipping.