Mountainman, i think a little is normal. For my brand x one I had huge amounts of play one – this is caused by the ‘keys’ wearing down. can replace these pretty cheap

I’ve just taken mine apart – actually very easy to do.

Unfortunately the air cartridge is gone in mine – so on the off chance that this isn’t the thing that’s broken from yours I’d buy it off you

I was looking at that aswell as just broke my 10 speed mech – didn’t think it has a clutch though?

Not sure what the last model i had was but was only rated to 36t but i put in longer b tension screws and it worked fine

I want a bike computer but can’t really buy one right now so going to use my old phone with smashed screen (so i dont end up breaking my current phone in a crash) and delete everything of it apart from strava, trailforks and OS maps and use it solely for the bike. Any recommendations on a mount for the bars?

Have you used it to actually pump up a tire? I love the idea but worried the pump would be a bit useless

Its clear from all the replies that there’s certainly no ‘right’ way to do it. I think I want to try co2 out but I’m too scared to ditch the pump aswell. I could add one co2 to the tube/strap thing without too much hassle which should hopefully seat a tire then if that fails I always have the tube and pump.

Quick question then, with those co2 inflaters you get. Can you store them on the cannister or do you need to store separate?

Im thinking your right and just pump and tube might be the way to go. will be messy but allways works and saves carrying anchovies and co2

Cheers,I think I will take it off and redo. will also be able to tell better when off the bike if there’s actually wax still in it.

I’m probably going too heavy on the washing as I have been using soap and giving it a scrub along with the rest of the bike which it probably doesn’t need

Sorry more questions.

So I’ve done 5 mtb rides since applied, about 100km – (some very very wet) and after I washed the bike down when you twisted the chain it felt gritty. Is this a good sign that you need to reapply

I’ve been washing the bike including drivetrain with muc off maybe this would be washing it out?

Still happy with it as thats way more than any other lube would have lasted but would be keen to get it to last longer if possible

Everyone is already disadvantaged because of Covid due to less teaching. If kids got ‘A’s that didn’t ‘deserve’ it we will never know who they are but there will be enough uni spots for everyone so i don’t think it matters at all.

Once they get to uni they either pass or fail and will be judged based on that.

The kids who would have had straight A’s regardless will be against wee timmy who would have failed if he had to actually take an exam. If timmy gets a good grade at uni then why would that be a bad thing?

Of course this is just looking at the uni side of things rather than other oppertunities but i think the same thing applies

Thanks everyone. For the price i cant ask for much more

was more worried about people saying it snapped first go or is super weird geometry or something but it appears like it will do the job fine as a bit of a beater second bike

After reading all nine pages I feel like i just have to comment. Thanks for all the advice everyone, when you google putoline and mountain bike this is the only thing that comes up.
No one else has been this nerdy with it all but I;m glad you all are. Works a treat!

I dont have a hose or garden so cleaning the bike is a pain but i allways had to try and clean the drivetrain so it isnt grinding and annoying but now i just wipe down the forks and chuck it in the spare room and just give it an overall clean about once a month now and everyhting runs smooth

possibly too late for yours now but for the next one the best advice is after each use immediately chuck it in the freezer – works really well

Yeh I think its probably the best option to just stick to the nikwax. just surprised there aren’t really any other companies doing it

I’ve actually just ordered a set also. They’re 35 posted for front and rear from here so worth a punt i reckon. https://www.bikester.co.uk/clarks-clout-1-disc-brake-160mm-rotors-silver-937725.html

Going to use some old 180 rotors I already have. Do these use the b01s pads does anyone know?

Massive difference is scotland can’t go travel wherever they want for excercise. have to stay in own local area. as well as this there are extremely clear rules and timeframes for each step and announced well in advance. I dont think its that ‘similar’ in this regard

How bad a smell are we talking? (assuming the DFF method). e.g. would people who i live with who aren’t interested in pointless things such as clean and quite drivetrains going to be bothered other than thinking I’m a bit weird

Cheers everyone, definitely looks like the basic shimano ones are the way to go. Who knows I may even like it enough that I’ll start riding my mtb clipped in – though still doubtful that it wont end in a horrendous crash despite what my riding buddies say

haha yeah i’ve seen plenty of people do it. especially embaressing at traffic lights.

Perfect i was expecting the pedals to be more than that actually considering the costs of some flats. they seem pretty popular and can have a look for deals on shoes

Anyone used the Savu and can speak for how big it is? – I know it says 4L but its allways a gamble on what that actually means. I allways have water in a cage so dont need the added bladder for the more expensive one but want it to be big enough for a light jacket though