Just finished fitting mine in the Pikes today.

Decided to have a bit of a maintenance day, cold, wet and windy outside.

Have only managed to have a quick ride on the road to bounce up and down on the forks.
Will have to get out later in the week to test properly.

Took my time, sometimes I scratched my head, but I’m sure I have fitted it correctly.
Mine came with a white plastic spacer, I have put this on top of the coil. My forks are set at 140mm , the installation images on the net don’t show this though.

I understand that you were on a tight budget here, and yes, it does look a tad expensive.

Recently the LBS built me up a pair of wheels.
The only component that I was particular about was the hubs , DT 350 ratchet hubs, I took the advice of the shop for spokes and rims.

The most important part for me in a hand built pair of wheels is the build quality.

A standard spec wheelset hand built by someone who knows what they are doing, and is taking their time to ensure trouble free use is sort it.

A high spec wheel thrown together is worse than the option above, leading to the usual wheel fettling to eventually get it right.

Another bonus is that the lbs will always be interested in any future repairs or adjustment.

Olly at Skyline Cycles is a good wheelbuilder and well worth his advice and wheel building skills and time.

I have a Nissan Leaf.

Could only get one bike in it with the wheels off.

Real world range is about 65 to 70 miles.

I wouldn’t go back to a petrol or diesel car, but it’s not going to suit everyone’s driving habits. Best when your daily mileage is around 50 miles.

The newer 30kw battery Leaf will have a bit more range, but real world driving will give lower range than the manufacturer claims. Should probably be more like 80 miles.

I considered the Nissan e NV 200, but the range ie even lower due to its weight and slab profile.

I had my coil package delivered earlier today.

Probably fit in the next few days.
If it performs well, which I expect it to, then I will order another kit for my new bike.

People in supermarkets who when shopping lean on the trolley, as if it was a life support system.

The ebike hate comes out on virtually every thread related to ebikes these days.

I don’t get it……

If you don’t like ebikes , then don’t buy one.

If you don’t like full suss bikes, then don’t buy one.

If you don’t like hardtail, then don’t buy one.

There’s a theme here.

No one is going to force you to buy a bike you don’t want.

If nobody , or very few people, buy ebikes, then they will die a natural death.

Well done to Orange for offering a bit more choice with the Shimano motor.
Be nice to see some gearbox bikes as well.

Yep, pity it’s not available now.

Just placed an order for a new full suss ebike last week.
Felt Redemption with the tried Bosch system, it does have the new SRAM Ex 1 drive components though.

Four different ebike systems out there now.
Bosch, Yamaha, Shimano and the Specialized system.

The Shimano one looks interesting and is sure to be a big player in this sector very soon.

I like it, good to see Orange dipping their toe into serious e mountain bike territory.

Ultimate uplift bike , and very good for those French alp long days out.

yep, mine was posted today.

top man richard.

Umm, I’m not your typical ebike rider then.

I’m about 81 kilo, I ride because I have a bit of a strength issue, I wouldn’t say all ebike riders are a bit heavier though.

I’m just more concerned about how the standard fork fits or operates on a heavier mass bike.

The impact on medium to large impacts must have a greater impact in terms of dynamics?

The compression / rebound control could be he answer here, but these settings are very rider dependent.

This is more of a conversation topic, than a defitive answer by the way.

I used to have a BMW R1100S, and can’t help thinking that an anti dive shock with a single shock absorber might be the answer here. The weight penalty on an ebike is not really an issue.

Thinking about it a bit more, albeit with an alcohol infused condition, the manufacturer of the fork or shock, will take a rider weight and bike in their algorithm in the design of the fork.

Hence, the air settings are a compromise.

But these settings will be determined on a normal mountain bike.

But, for an ebike with full suss this will be outside of the normal parameters by quite a margin, given a normal(ish) rider weight and normal(ish) bike weight.

Similar in principle to how sram have developed a new gear system (EX1) for the extra torque available from the battery assist in terms of drive systems.

Speaking without any real suspension knowledge, perhaps a larger air volume space would be the answer?

Umm, it’s not an insignificant difference though.

In terms of weight, you could say the major manufacturers have a window of settings, but the difference here is the mass and inertia of the impacts.

I’m not proposing an answer here, it just strikes me that the impact of a bike that weighs about 7 kilo more, will have an impact on the way the suspension works.

So, sitting on the bike will give sag values, but once it is in the trail the force and impact will be greater due to the added inertia?

Dunno, is this correct?

Continuing the electric theme.

I recently bought a Nissan Leaf electric car.
Bit of a squeeze to get a bike in the back, but it will fit with front wheel off.

Look at a one year old used model. I bought a top of the range Tecna with all the toys for £12,500.
4,000 miles from new, full warranty etc. Just like a new car.

Excellent, wouldn’t go back to a petrol or diesel car.
Had a charge point installed at home, there is a Nissan and government grant for this , cost £95 to have the 7kw charger.

No road tax, quiet, drives extremely well, best car I have had ever.

Won’t suit everyone due to the range issues, but would suit a large majority of drivers who don’t drive more than say 60 miles each day.

I ordered a pair of these togs from the USA.

Sold them recently, I just didn’t get on with them.
I think you will find some folk who will like them a lot though.

Personal preference really, but found I didn’t use them, seems like a good idea, but in practice they were wasted on my riding style.

Just got back in from a ride around The Wall.

Dry, hardpack, we had a frost last night. Weather forecast is dry and cold.

Some icy puddles, but not completely frozen.

Riding just like summer without the nice temperature.

Good weekend for riding, just a bit cold.

Saving grams on a fatbike

Well it depends how many grams and where.

Wheels andtyres are probably the best place to save the grams. Going tubeless is desirable, my fat bike tubes weighed in at 550g each.

If you buy a carbon frame, Sonder Vir Fortis, you can build a very light fat bike, mine comes in at 12kg with a Lauf fork without any bling apart from the DT Swiss BR2250 wheelset.

Very comfy as well with low pressures.

I think a lot of the weight conception is still from the heavier steel framed bikes out there. But I will agree that weight is just part of the equation.

only had the mulefut on my (now sold) Trek Stache 0.

Seemed to be good, paired with the DT Swiss hubs.

The DT Swiss BR2250 are very good in terms of build quality though.

I considered moving to carbon rims, but just couldn’t justify the extra cost vs the small weight reduction.

Have to agree bedmaker.

The DT Swiss wheels are ace , I have them on both of my fat bikes, make a world of difference to have a fine set of wheels , easy to set up tubeless as well.

Ordering from CR is made very easy with emailing Richard.

Very helpful guy, walked me through everything and is supplying a 140mm spring. Basically it looks like they will supply most things to match the customer requirements.

A few questions back and forth, but always very quick with the responses .

Looking forward to fitting it now, might very well just fit it once it arrives.

I felt the same about the tokens, took all of them out, I’m no hero of a downhiller, just want a coil fork of old really.

After reading and watching this thread, I am about to buy the coil conversion kit.

Will probably use the existing air set up through the remainder of the winter months, as the fork is working fine.

Once the spring arrives and the fork needs a service I will make the conversion to the coil set up.

Looks to be a much easier and less faff set up in terms of usability and maintenance.

I heat up an old screwdriver and then pierce the valve hole using the hot screwdriver point.

Never had a problem I believe it seals the tape with the temperature.
Cutting a hole would tend to leave any layers open to leakage.

This has been my experience, and maybe it’s not right for you, but here goes.

I have , and still do, suffer with the triangle of depression, anxiety and stress.

I thought that having retired my depression would go away.
I have stopped taking the anti depressants now, but the unhappiness and stress brought on by not being happy in my work / job still affects me two years after having retired.

People gave me all sorts of advice when I was working and suffering with depression, but in a large part it was brought on by the work and workplace.

Family pressures made me carry on in the job, mortgage, 3 kids, supporting them in uni etc. Didn’t see that I could stop and change.

I do wish I had the courage to change and end the cycle. I was clearly not content / capable/ fitted in ( insert any adjective).

Try and make a long term change if the work is affecting you. I know it’s not an easy thing to do, but your skills as a teacher are very valuable and are transferable into other areas.

Have a long think about it, there are many things you could probably do with your skill set, and in the long term you and your family would be better off (maybe not financially), but emotionally.

I have been watching this thread and very interested in making this conversion, but have a few queries.

My pikes are the 650b version set at 140mm.

Is it quite simple to convert the forks? And is it possible to reduce the travel (via the spring ordered) to say 130mm?

I just fancy this conversion to get away from any air spring maintenance really, I weigh 85kgs with my riding gear on, the spring being total rider weight compatible.

Any help appreciated.

Degrease in white spirit, wipe clean, re lube , go ride.

I find that the factory grease makes a real mess of the chain ring(s) and cassette.

It will be rideable, it always is.

Has turned colder, cold wind with occasional sleety hail, nice……

The trails always drain very well, ground will be hard with some snow and ice puddles.

I’ll be the daft old duffer , probably on the ebike, fat bike at that.

Can’t help with setting up those wheels for tubeless, but if you are going to go tubeless this time of year I would recommend that you put a different front tyre on.

I had a Jumbo Jim on the front until very recently.

It will wash out very easily in winter conditions, something with a bit more bite is needed. JJ are great as a fast rolling summer(ish) front tyre though.

I fitted a 45nrth tyre, plenty of grip up front now.

Just finished No Beast So Fierce by Edward Bunker.

Excellent story based on the experiences of a real prisoner who had served quite a bit of time in the notorious USA prisons.

Well worth a read if you like crime related stories, based on the difficulties faced by prisoners trying to go straight in society.

We had a flurry of snowfall late in the evening (yesterday) and then it began freezing.

Windy Point will have snow for sure, it won’t be that deep, but almost certainly will be hard and frozen ice in places.

I would expect a little more snow and the temperature is unlikely to thaw what snow there is up there.

Be fine, just adding to the fun, make sure you have something to protect you from the wind chill and it will be fine.

Babylon’s Ashes appears to have a good following on here, added it to my list.

Only 3 people have joined the Goodreads group including me.

I’m the only one with my reading list and reading history etc.

I suppose it isn’t the good idea I thought it was.

I find myself reading through the thread and adding some of the books that people have read on here.

I”ll keep you posted on the snow, I live about 3 miles from the Wall trail.

At the moment it’s just raining, but it can sometimes turn to snow up at Windy Point ( top of the climb out of Glyncorrwg).

I don’t think it will come to much, wouldn’t mind a bit of snow, I will be up there on the fat bike then.

Me, I would start at the Wall end, just so you don’t have the big climb straight out of the Glyncorrwg car park.
It’s just personal preference though.

Some interesting books that folk are reading on here.

I have added a few to my to read list.

Also created a group on Goodreads , imaginately called Singletrackers.

If you want to join and share your opinions on the books you have read / currently reading /want to read, then join the group.

+1 for bikebouy

Warm living room, Whisky and some peace and quite to get into a book.

Would it be worth setting up a group on Goodreads to see what Singletrackers are reading?

My next book will be Descent into chaos by Ahmed Rashid, really interested in getting some insight into some background on 9/11.

Some smashing current reads in this thread.
Fortunately I can read for about 2 hours a day these days, since having a recent cataract op and new reading glasses.

Has to be John Noakes.

But people will probably vote for the presenter in their youth.

John Noakes and Shep, classic stuff.

Yep, had a Raleigh Randonneur back in the day, also a Nigel Dean Tourmaster 531, which was probably ideal.

Able to put a rear rack on with a bag on top of the rear rack.
Stash inner tubes, spare clothing, wet clothing , gloves etc.

200km rides were my preffered rides, nice day out with like minded folk. Good times.

slowster offer excellent advice.

I used to ride a lot of audax in the ’90’s, always found the lighter end of the touring bikes to be just right.

You”lol need a good measure of comfort really, weight is not the most important thing here, comfort and nice wide tyres to take whatever the route throws at you.

+1 for roverpig.

Tyres do make a big difference.

Had the Jumbo Jims on the front until recently, they are a bit lethal this time of year.

They will just wash out , quite unpredictable.

Couldn’t manage to fit the Surly tyres tubeless on mt DT Swiss BR2250 rims, but the uber expensive 45NRTH Flowbeist is a very good front tyre.

I have two fat bikes, so my opinion will be a bit biased.

One is a very lightweight Sonder Vir Fortis carbon bike with Lauf forks. The other is the complete opposite in terms of weight, being an electric fat bike with Bluto’s.

I really like both of them, as mentioned above , no bike is perfect for all types of riding, but some form of suspension is a must for me.

The Vir Fortis is quite nimble, but charging downhill will result in the Lauf fork getting very busy, and occasionally deciding to tip you off if you are just going too fast, it doesn’t have any rebound control.

The Bluto is a better option for more control.

The thing I found surprising was the comfort level from what is just a hardtail bike.
4″ tyres with low pressures run tubeless give a really nice ride once you are used to it.

To me, it’s a good compromise of reasonable comfort with very little maintenance.

My long term would be pinion gearbox and Lauf fork for about 70% of my riding these days.

A lot depends on where, how and what you ride.
These days I’m not concerned with charging around, so a slightly more sedate approach is fine.

I know where the power is coming from for my ‘le you car.

Straight from my roof if the sun is shining, 4kw worth of solar panels.

If……the sun is shining then it’s free power for me.

Going back to the original OP thread about people driving on their mobile.

If we can’t alter people’s behaviour whilst driving and not using say a hands free phone ( which again is a little risky in my opinion).

Then it’s time the government and motor manufacturers got together to find a way to prevent the phone from working whilst being used in a car.

I’m not convinced handsfree is all that safe due to the distraction etc.

This was one of the approaches I tried in the workplace when we couldn’t modify people’s behaviour.

Time to see I feel the government and motor manufacturers are serious I think.

The use of mobiles whilst driving is pretty widespread now.