Supposedly the Exotic/carboncycles version is 350g.it would be interesting to see who’s actually telling the truth given they all look so similar. Or maybe the Tolerances are that loose that they really do very in weight that much!

A Dry mix would be a good halfway house between slabs only and a concrete pad but like people have said, it’s probably not needed.

I can’t remember if I said this in your other thread or just thought it to myself; it might be worth putting a large concrete block in to the area under the shed to allow for a ground anchor to be installed. Dig a pit in a place you know will be accessible in the shed, preferably with the sides flared out further as it goes down to give it more holding power with less concrete. Fill with a concrete mix and level it off with the surrounding flags. You should be able to mix enough easily in a wheelbarrow with a spade.

If your flag base is done correctly with adequate drainage to stop ground swell from rain and frost you should be fine for a good long while.

Body looks exactly the same as the exotic ones I’ve got, right down to the moulding marks. Axle and sealing washer looks exactly the same as the ones from wellgo b144’s. Probably all out of the same factory.

Stick on cable guides? Used them on a few bikes now, seem to work fine. If the look bothers you, grab some nail polish that matches the colour of the frame and paint the pads.

The timber should be ok as long as it’s from a half respectable seller. Depending on the quality of a pre made shed I’d suspect the roof covering may end up being the weak point. All mineral felts are not made equal for example. Epdm rubber roofs are gaining ground on felt as it can be sourced in bigger sheets helping to eliminate seams that end up leaking.

If you DIY, go above and beyond with things like sealing cut ends, pre drilling so you don’t split the grain apart etc. Tanalised is great but as soon as you compromise the outer layer it’s just a matter of time, no matter how good the timber was to begin with.
Try to plan ahead with your design, you may be able to make it so that the worst spots for rot are easy and cheap enough to replace.
Don’t scrimp on the timber treatments. I’ve found the cheaper options are usually a false economy. Do it right once and you’ll be able to spend more time enjoying it and less time repainting.
Like Nick says, ventilation is key. Try get some up at roof level and some lower down as far away as feasible. The temperature difference between the two will help drag air across the shed keeping it reasonably dry.

Those little lamp/sticky pad contraptions were actually surprisingly effective for grabbing the few stragglers you might have missed with the chemical warfare. Stick one near where you know there were critters and then laugh the day after when you see what you’ve caught.

With regards to the damp; stick a couple of vents in it somewhere. If there’s an overhang on the roof, a hole cut out tucked up under the overhang covered by a vent to keep the rain out will help massively. Bonus points if you can put one low down on the opposite wall to the roof vent too. The convection/chimney effect you get happening will allow allow air to circulate across the entire space getting rid of most of your condensation issue. Try keeping the vents on sides that aren’t blocked by anything so you can get a decent breeze blowing in.
Three 6″ x 2″ vents underneath the overhang and a half inch gap under the door on my garage has stopped dead any condensation I used to get in there.

If you’re putting the shed on a wooden frame you’d have to take in to account how strong the base of the shed is when not supported by slabs or concrete underneath. You don’t want to be standing in the shed and damaging the floor where it falls between the joists. I’ve never seen one of these sheds up close so I don’t know how much of an issue it would be. Putting deckboards over the top of the frame you make would solve that particular problem and not cost much time or money.
Good shout on the weed barrier.

They come in a selection of different sizes and thicknesses so you should be able to get somewhere near, having to cut a few paving slabs down shouldn’t cause you too much trouble though. Make sure you tamp the ground down properly so you don’t get slabs sinking/settling where you’ve disturbed the ground.
Rather than getting the base perfectly level, it might be worth thinking about introducing some fall in to it so it sheds water slightly quicker. It stops it mossing up as easily and can help with water that might freeze on to it in winter. It doesn’t need to be a great deal, just be mindful of whats around the base in the direction the water will run.

For those who do need to do any paint stripping themselves I’d suggest something called Synstryp by Starchem. I got some to prep for a rattle can paint job on an old Kinesis frame after trying the utter waste of money that is modern Nitromors.
Dabbed it on over the paint, left it 15 minutes and came back to find a nice pile of liquified paint under the frame.
It still contains dichloromethane (the good stuff) that nitromors have got rid of.
I’m usually the first to disregard safety info, but this stuff is nasty; wear PPE and use it outside!

Not my suggestions, I’ve just asked my old man; ‘ crankshaft sensor fault, injector fault maybe’. He says it might be as a result of a starter motor issue; some VAG engines don’t fire the injectors when the engine is warm until its up to speed off the starter. If the starter isn’t as good as it can be it won’t be able to get it spinning fast enough. Trying a few times might be giving it enough time to cool down making them fire.
Unplugging the coolant temp sensor bypasses the problem and might help you point a finger more accurately.
He’s going to ask his old apprentice who’s still in the trade for some more accurate/up to date info. If I hear anymore I’ll post up.

Edit: he’s mentioned a relay that often fails in vag engines but he’s not sure how long/which years it was an issue for, or if it ever got fixed from the factory at all. He’s going to be suggesting stuff all night now, I may have to turn my phone off to get any sleep…

Hemsby beach is nice enough; not much to see on the Main Street there though, if that’s of any concern. Just the usual bingo halls, amusement arcades and doughnut vans. You may have to wander along a bit to find a soft bit for the tootsies, but they’re there.

Sig 550’s on their backs rather than L85’s as well.
Seems the mechanised divisions are trying to cut costs and reduce emissions.

Would a lwb transporter not be worth the compromise in compactness for the extra room inside? It works out to be about the same length as something like a Ford Galaxy with a hitch mounted multibike rack on.

If you can afford it, a Transporter Kombi might be a good shout. You can spec it with captain seats in the front, not sure about the swivelling aspect; possibly something you’d have to source yourself. I know the sliding rear seats are available aftermarket.
A friend I do some work for has this setup bar the sliding rear seats and I’ll vouch for it being a great choice. After 4 hours driving, you get out of the van feeling fresh. Automatic box and cruise control probably helps a bit with that…

Keep in mind standard material sizes when you’re drawing up your plans (8′ x 4′ for sheet materials and such). It’ll cut costs and maybe save you having to do so much physical cutting.
Don’t skimp on the fasteners! I know it’s a kids playhouse but I know I’d be gutted if 3 months down the line there were rusty streaks everywhere on the thing.
Most cheap stainless screws aren’t particularly strong so organic coated decking screws are probably a good choice.
If I’ve got a project on the go I keep a piece of paper and a little pencil on me to scribble moments of inspiration (madness) down on during the day. Might be worth a go.

Would it not be possible to have a slightly deeper area boxed in along the floor so you can keep at least some fall in the sink waste pipe? Maybe make it a decent depth from the wall and use it as a shelf?
One other thing to take in to account is the suction effect flushing the bog might have on the water in the sink trap. I think there’s a minimum depth of seal you’d have to achieve so you don’t end up with and fragrant aromas making their way up through the sink after the trap seal disappears.
Massive pinch of salt required; DIYer only.