Sorry took so long. Small for me please.
davewoods33(AT)hotmail.com

Talas internals well over 100 quid if I remember right. I’ve got a very little used 2009 Talas cartridge and top cap assembly for sale if anyone is interested (I changed to float as I never reduced the travel – personally did not notice any difference in quality of travel).

I’d also be interested in the Attack 3/4s. Just need 1 more….

Apparently 9spd mechs work with 10spd road shifters. You need a 10spd mech to use 10spd MTB shifters: cable pull is different.

To change to 10spd you’ll need new rear mech, cassette and chain. 9spd chainring should be fine.

I’ve just gone 1×9. Biggest gear 32-11: I don’t need anything higher. Depends what you’re riding though: if you’re a secret roadie or have got have a twisted love for smooth fireroad descents you’ll spin out.

Stinger’s actually going to lengthen the chain as with the Stinger on the chain won’t take the shortest (straight) route from chainring to rear mech [God I must be bored to have bothered to write that!]

I’d try Decathlon if there’s one nearby

As far as I know the actual frame geometry is unchanged. I’ve fitted my 09 36 on my warranted replaced 2010 frame. Feels the same as my 2009 frame. 2009 or 2010 frames should work fine with 150 or 160 mm forks. In my opinion using a 140mm fork would defeat the object of the frame

My lads 10 now, but very tall: about 5’7″. He’s had a few 26″ wheeled bikes 14″ 456 (got for his 8th birthday, later sold to a mate of his), and an XS Giant Trance (stolen), now has a small Marin Attack Trail (but almost outgrown that!).

Some of the best options I think for teeny 26″ wheeled bikes. Sure he’ll have done just as well with something from Decathlon but Dad’s vanity prevented that!

To do it right you need to get air forks so you can set them up for his weight. Also a super short stem.

Also in my experience kids don’t get on too well with front mechs (even on double not triple chainrings): hardly ever end up using them, when they do end up getting cross-chained, and don’t have the thumb strength to shift back up to the bigger ring. My son seems to have a strange aversion to shifting down and takes great delight in pushing the biggest possible gear he can, despite (or probably because of) the frustrated shouts of “change down!” from me behind. After last weeks ride I’m taking off his front shifter!

Straitline silent guide here. Quiet, no real drag, and no moving parts to sieze up. Looks great too 🙂 Silly money new, I got mine SH off here!

If I was buying new I’d probably get one of the new Superstar ones.

I run rapid rise, I’d say it is pretty rare. Wild guess – something like 1 in 20 bikes are rapid rise. You’d have to find out if your specific bike came with rapid rise as standard. No other distinguishing features???

I bought one of those wooden ladders attached to a hatch. Took it home and my builders advised me to take it straight back: apparently a real ball ache to fit and get all lined up. Never did get round to buying another, but if I did I'd go for an aluminium one

Decent sturdy tyres IME:

Michelin Mountain Xtrem
Schwalbe Fat Albert (though have pinched these every now and then)
Conti Rubber Queen (great tyre)
Halo Choir Master (though I found these let go pretty easy)

Way too thin in the sidewall for me:
Maxxis LUSTs
Spesh Enduro Tubliss (sp?)
Conti Verts

As has been said Maxxis DH USTs are great as well if you don't mind the weight and roll fairly quick in 60a

still looking….

Anyone???

I've got a Humax Freesat recorder at xmas: been brilliant

darcy: I had emailed you a while ago and asked for a quote but got no reply 😉

Here's a few more details partly copied from that mail:

50m2 approx a third on top of old pine floorboards, third on old quarry tiles , third on new concrete floor (been down approx 1 month). Its a through dining room – kitchen – living room.

Looking at oak and engineered for stability in the kitchen and moisture resistance.

All skirts will be off.

Planning to lay myself. I'm fairly handy and done laminate floors no problem.

Planning to float on a decent 5mm ish underlay. Is floating better with click boards the T&G? What installation method would you recommend?

Are the 3mm veneered boards a decent compromise (money vs longevity)?

Any other wise words?

I've been looking for exactly the same, and these looked good:

http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/light-strips-warm-white-lumen-ip67-p-2175.html

Few dents on my and a mate's Remedys. Though thankfully nothing like that pic above. I've ziptied a bit of tyre on there to prevent any more. Looks hardcore 🙂

D

That Batcave hits my technogeek buttons!

Any idea on the cost of a half-decent projector / screen? 🙂

Geometry on the 2 can be very similar .

Compared my 66 with my mates Alpine. I had mine with a shorter shock and set up fairly slack / low. head angle was almost identical and alpine a hair lower in the BB.

I'd be surprised if there was much real world difference in ride.

I've had similar issues with LUST tyres (2.35 Ignitors which I pinched after about 2 rides in the Peaks). Never had a pinch with UST 2.5 HighRollers or Swampthings, or Michelin Comp 24s / 16s (actually a lie: pinched one in chamonix about 3 years ago!).

Also looking for the perfect tough, light and grippy UST tyre: about 1000g seems about right for me.

I'm running a 2.4 Rubber Queen Tubeless on the front (I got it cheap!). Great tyre so far: fairly light for a big tyre (bigger than a 2.5 HighRoller), rolls fast and really grippy in the slop we've had recently.

Also really like Schwalbe Fat Albert Tubeless 2.35s, Similar size (maybe a bit smaller) to a 2.5HR, about 1000g, grippy and fast, but had a couple of pinch punctures on the rear (after a lot of use).

Similar tyres I've tried are:

2.4 Spesh Enduro 2bliss – foldy side knobs and pinches too easy.

Michelin Mountain Xtrem Tubeless 2.5 (grey and black tyre). Like a Comp 24 but lighter: great in the dry and rolls fast but clogs easy. Very good sidewalls.

I did have a Big Earl Wet ages ago: seem to remember it being big and sidewalls being fairly flimsy: I gave it to a mate.

Cracked headtube weld on mine with 160 Lyrics: rode great beforehand though. Given their reputation I'd stick with Pikes or similar.

Seth: which shop: I'm Sheffield too

I had a similar issue which turned out to be a leaking seal at the caliper: would lose all power and too much lever throw, bleed would sort it, then quickly got worse again.

Take out the pads and 'burn' them over a gas hob: loads of white smoke = contamination (probably oil). Keep heating till the smoke disappears then put them back in the brake. Burn them again after a few days: more smoke indicates you've probably got a leaky seal. Unfortunatly cannot get new seals for shimanos, so new caliper time. This happened on very well used brakes though: less likely to be the isuue on a new set.

Paul4stones: sounds like one of the seals in the lever may have gone. i've had this too when just can't stop bubbles coming out into the reservoir. Solved for me with a new lever, maybe your caliper was fine?

I've got a set of the new m775 XTs with servowave levers for sale if anyone intersted.

Very little use. Just been bled with proper bleed kit so work perfect. £140 posted.

Think there is a less common 12mm rear Saint hub (as well as 10mm)

Rear hub can use a 10mm thru axle (DT RWS, or Superstar do a cheap one I believe) which will work in standard QR drop outs. Saint mechs are great bits of kit though: I've got one for sale in the classifieds: bit heavier than the xtr but bombproof

Dave

Thanks everyone. It is an IS caliper mounted to an IS fork so can't use washers. Either the A2Z adaptor or a bit of filing to make a slot on the adaptor should be fine.

Dave

I've got a D2 (incidentally for sale). Great sound quality and very tough, but the touch screen started to annoy me: needs 2 hands to select tracks, and too fiddly to operate: fdefinitely not one for quickly changing albums at the traffic lights!

I've got a brand new in the box shimano hose kit: banjo fitting at one end, straight connector at the other (I bought the wrong one!) £11 posted?

I use Acekards (from deal extreme). You need the Acekard 2i for a DSi. Tried these and n5 cards. Acekard interface is way nicer.

Apparently games can be downloaded as torrents 😉

Just got myself a new drill and I've gone from a 550W green 'standard' Bosch to a SDS blue Bosch. Don't remember the model name but its the smallest SDS with chisel action. Its not 'too big' and easily useable, but I wouldn't want to go any bigger / heavier.

Drilling into my walls was a complete PITA with the old drill: had to start small with a pilot hole then work up, and ruined loads of bits in the process. New drill just drilled right through my walls for satellite cable with a looong 16mm bit: like butter!

I've experienced similar intermittently on new style levers, never on older levers . My last set did it for a while, then it stopped after a bleed. got a new set and noticed exactly the same the other day, but after a couple of days sitting they are back to normal. I'm going to rebleed and see if that solves it.

BTW getting all the air out can be a PITA: I've got a Shimano bleed kit which though expesnive for a few little bits, makes it so much easier.

Dave

BTW not sure if they are cheapest but JustRidingALong is the first stop for all things tubeless.

AFAIK: if running tubeless you can either run:

yellow tape and ust tyres
yellow tape and normal tyres (but may not seal well & may burp)
any tape and rim strip and non-ust tyres

If you are running tubes you will need some rim tape (any kind should be fine).

BTW mine is 17.5 virtual (16.5 actual)

I ride a 17.5" Remedy at just over 5'8" I find it perfect but wouldn't personally want to go any bigger (I do like my bikes fairly small though).

Rear wheel is standard width – 135mm but takes a longer QR, so is Trek specific. Can't see a problem with getting replacements in the future – they are very popular bikes, and the Trek warranty department seems to have a very good reputation.

If anyone wants some matchmaker clamps I would swap my black matchmaker clamps (off Elixir CRs and XO shifters), for a set of individual brake and shifter clamps. Only swapping as I want to sell the brakes and shifters and will be easier to shift separately.

davewoods33(AT)hotmail.com

and BTW I rate Stingers as far better than DRSs: I had a DRS and the roller wore and stretched then the bearings seized very quickly. Never had a wear/maintenance issue with Stingers despite a couple of years of use.

Dave

I've just taken the Stinger off my Remedy.

One issue with a chain guide on the Remedy is that the drive side chainstay is so low that the Stinger will end up lower than the bashguard: makes it liable to hitting on rocks/ logs, and twisting round against the chainstay on impact and jamming the chain against the chainstay.

I've fitted an SLX dual specific front mech mounted really low and haven't dropped a chain since with some fairly rocky descending. I've found for some reason the Remedy holds the chain far better than my old Patriot which lost the chain a fair bit even with the Stinger fitted.

DT RWS 10mm axles work in just about any standard 135mm QR compatible frames. Should provide a bit of extra stiffness.

I've got a used one for sale if you're interested..

Dave