That Superstar headset should fit I think.

Don’t hold me to it but I think these should fit the top of the Cane Creek:

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=61&products_id=282

These however probably won’t fit the bottom: my new Cane Creek 1.5 bearing says 36degrees x 45 degrees on it.

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=61&products_id=439

I got one from Edinburgh Bike Coop: £60ish in a sale and very good.

this one:

http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebwPNLqrymode.a4p?f_ProductID=5379&f_SupersetQRY=C287&f_SortOrderID=1&f_bct=c003154c003136c003544

bit more expensive now, think sold under other brands

Done it once before: 3 of us: all UST, with mix of UST dual Ply Maxxis, and Michelin DH. 1 pinch puncture at the bead between the 3 of us (on a Maxxis).

I’m thinking of running:

Quali: UST Minion ST front and UST Minion 60a rear.
Race: Conti Rubber Queen 2.4 front and UST Minion 60a rear

Last thing you want to do is flat in the quali, but faster rolling RQ should help in the main event.

Jonzo: good luck with the Larsen 😉 Never tried them myself but not a huge amount of bite there. Think there is a huge difference between what the pros can get away with running and what suits mere mortals. Also watch wearing the rear supertacky down to a semi-slick in the week before the race.

Only through dealer. In my case they first sent a photo to trek, who then requested to have frame sent to them before authorizing replacement. Took a while for me as no UK stock.

Thanks for the info. Will have a go at servicing mine soon. Trout when.my remote needed bleeding the post was stuck in the up position, so not sure if that is your problem…..

Trek dealers. Superstar seem to do something suitable but out of stock. Let me know if you get some please. I’m after the same.

Jeffus

Did you ever get anywhere with an angleset for the remedy- contemplating one myself as I need a new headset anyway.

Dave

Got a set of easton havocs. Aluminium, uncut 750s. Hardly used. 40 quid posted.

Can do, but I bet it will be something along the lines of “couldn’t tell any difference!”

Angleset has been advertised as leaving BB essentially unchanged, though thinking about it as head angle slackens BB will drop a little.

Not sure but I’d imagine that the offset bushes have a much greater impact on BB as HA slackens, but I could be wrong. Anyone good at geometry?

Angleset won’t lower the bb. Offset shock bushes will slacken and lower. From a very friendly Irish guy who’s name escapes me. I’ve got 1 set for my 2010 remedy though not fitted yet. Can only fit one cset to 2010s due to the custom top mount on the drcv shock.

I’ve run UST RQs for over a year now. 2.4 black chillis and recently a 2.2 non BC on the back.

I like them a lot, not experienced any problems when leant over.

No punctures or burping and I have had pinch flat problems with a lot of other big UST tyres.

To be honest I’ve not noticed any lack of grip with the rear non BC.

I’ve used them summer and winter in the Peak, and never wanted more grip.

BC 2.4s roll very quickly.

Wear is very good.

I did put a set of 2.5 UST Maxxis on for the Alps last year which I think are a bit tougher.

Doing the Mega this year and very tempted to run 2.4 RQ USTs for rolling speed, though sensible thing would be to play it safe with Maxxis for pinchflat resistance. I’ll probably run a RQ up front and Minion front on the back.

Rode a rear Crossmark on a demo bike last week after a bit of rain: now that was interesting!

I’ve had a 2009 Remedy 9, now a 2010 (replaced under warranty due to bubbling paint).

Great bikes, feel really plush and suck up the rough stuff, yet pedal fantastically too. I was really impressed by it’s lateral stiffness too (coming off a Patriot with 10mm rear axle).

As said above the ’09 shocks can blow through their travel far too easily if pushed hard. I solved mine by stuffing the ‘extra’ air can on the shock with bits of cut-up Ikea tablemat. Basically just reducing the air volume so will ramp up more. Google that MTBR thread for more details.

Also vulnerable to dents on the downtube by the BB from rocks thrown up by the front wheel: you can buy carbon protectors off ebay or zip-tie a bit of old tyre there.

I’ve spent a fair bit of time lightening mine up but no idea of the finished weight. Judging by the dents and what I can see inside the BB area there’s no spare weight in the frame.

Sure you’ll love it.

No reverbs in 27.2mm. KS do one though.

I’ve always adjusted my post down for descents, and got very used to it. Resisted for a while, then splurged on a Reverb. I can’t imagine riding a bike without one now!

Should be fine.

Ran exactly that with a Stinger on my Patriot 66 without a problem

As fish has said the gamut does need a bash. I will send a pic anyway.

Gamuts fantastic as shown in pic above. I’ve got a Gamut p20 for sale. No bashguard. ISCG ’05. £25 posted. Think I have got an e13 BB adaptor somewhere if needed.

e13LG1+ are very good.

I had issue with a Straitline Silent Guide: didn’t work great with a 32T ring, though ring was ramped. Sure would work much better with a 34 or 36T due to design.

problem with that Superstar guide may just be a combination of backplate design and low chainstays on that bike: diff guides just fit different bikes better. I’d be wary of running that as is though: backplate hanging way down at bottom likely to rotate the whole guide round when hit.

Used Stan’s Flows and Mavic 823s. Very positive experiences of both. 823s bombproof for me. I’ve put a couple of minor dings in Flows with a a fair bit of abuse in the Peaks still sealed fine though.

Friends who ride a bit heavier than me have dinged Flows pretty bad, but they are all still using them.

If I was building another set of wheels it would be Flows again as they are a lot lighter than 823s. If purely DH and I was tough on wheels probably go 823s.

I’ve got a set. Not bothered fitting yet but look very well made and super nice guy to deal with

I don’t use a front shifter and right handed lever works a treat on left side outboard of brake lever under bar

I looked around for these and settled on the KMC ones which work fine.

Got one too. It’s a stem: connects bars to fork. Looks nice. Seems to clamp the bars very securely. Changing bars is slightly more complicated than a conventional stem as you’ve got to remove the whole top half of the stem. Not a big issue though.

To be honest you’re very unlikely to notice the difference between any £20 stem and the Renthal, but I’m happy to be running it.

Chris,

I’d be interested in a 1800 kit. Would be my 5th Troutie light!! Would seem a real shame to miss out on the next generation!

Am I right in thinking these are going to be fairly narrow so perfect for helmet light?

I’d be replacing my 3 x XPE R2 helmet light which although has a great throw, does gets pretty drowned out by my Liberator, but wouldn’t want to lose the throw of the XPE. 1800 be roughly twice as bright as the XPE?

Dave

PS went for a ride a couple of weeks back with 6 Trout creations between 4 of us: got a local monopoly going on here!

I ride a large Xen. L/XL Enduromatic was way too small for me. Bit of a funny shaped head though: sticks out at the back: Xen is one of the only helmet I’ve found that fits well.

Never buy a helmet without trying it first.

JEJames do Urge.

I’ve got a spare lever assembly. New style saint 4pot. Had a leak in lever somewehere when on holiday so had to replace the whole lever assembly. Lever itself is fine and straight. £12 posted?

My bet would be either a leak at the piston seals, or somewhere inside the lever: not the diaphragm cap (brakes should work perfectly with the cap off).

I’ve tested for caliper leaks by burning the pads over a gas flame: any oil that’s leaked out will stick to the pads and burn off with white smoke. Burn them clean then put them back in use them a bit then take out and burn again: if white smoke then you’ve blown a caliper piston seal: new caliper time.

If no evidence of a leak at the piston then either a leak in the lever or a dodgy hose-caliper or hose lever seal. You shortened the hose recently?

Have to agree with others that as a non-racer (and probably not educated in all the work and expense that goes into organising racing like this) £60 has put me off entering. Though don’t by any means begrudge organisers aiming to make some money out of these events.

Had a look at the winter and summer enduros and seems with the ‘summer’ series you do get 1 timed seeding run extra over the winter enduro.

Know its on a very different scale but I’ve just entered the Megavalanche: about 100 Euros got me 2 timed runs and a 7 day lift pass…

Tried Lyriks on mine a few years back. Rode great. Headtube weld cracked after a couple of months. They aren’t known for their strength, though newer ones may be a lot better.

beaten to it..

I think he’s on about drilling the Stinger not drilling and tapping the frame.

You may well be able to drill new holes, depending on if there’s enough metal on the backplate: ISCG05 are further out from the BB than ISCGold I think. Difficulty is probably going to be ‘countersinking’ the bolt holes so the bolts don’t foul that stupid granny ring of yours: there’s not a lot of clearance in there.

BTW Did you know all the cool kids are going 1×10! It’s the future: it said so in Dirt.

I’ve got a pair of sid airs for sale. Not sure of year, but work well. Had them on my son’s bike. I reduced the travel with spacers so they didn’t rake the head angle too much. 60 quid posted. Mail me if interested and i’ll sort pics and spec.

I live in Totley and really like it. Not as posh as Dore (home of all the ex-footballers), and a fair bit cheaper. Fantastic riding on Blacka and Totley Moors within 10 mins ride (better than anything else in the Peaks but I’m biased!!). Easy access to Sheffield as well.

Anywhere on the west side of Sheffield is pretty nice and and great for riding. Bradway, Totley, Dore, Fulwood, Ranmoor, Crookes etc. Probably most expensive in Dore, Fulwood, Ranmoor, Totley probably mid range, Crookes and Northern side cheapest.

Bear in mind any likely commute, if you are wanting to go Leeds way then north Sheffield is a lot easier. South side gives easy access to Chesterfield and M1 south. Doesn’t make much difference for the journey west to Manchester.

Dave

-m- food for thought.

Main BT cable terminates ion our loft: connected up to ‘extension’ telephone cable there (builder just wrapped the individual wires round each other) which runs down to the BT Master socket very near my garage.

I’d hoped to move the Master socket to the garage (am I not supposed to??).

Guess I’m going to be losing some strength in the extension cable: what’s the best way of making the connection between the loft and garage?

Dave

Thanks guys.

Yep: sockets around the house all connect back to the garage wall.
Bringing it back to bikes its a hub and spoke layout. All numbered up so I know what goes where. O2 box is a broadband router (AFAIK!)

One more question: is it worth getting a gigabit switch: would cost about £75 more for a 16 port switch: will I get any benefits?

Dave

I’ve got a Humax Freesat Recorder box. had it a year and its been great. Really good programmable remote with it too.

Dave

Decathlon

Try the Orange San Francisco. Easily unlocked, Android 2.1 (2.2 probably soon), only £100 (£10 off from Orange for NHS /Council employees), GPS. Loads of clever /geeky guys modding & supporting them here:

http://android.modaco.com/category/453/zte-blade-blade-modaco-com/

Its the first phone I’ve ever paid money for, so I’m a long way from an expert but it does everything for me.

Should easy get a Prophet for that and ticks all your boxes. Think they are 140mm and 2 HA/BB settings.

Patriot 66 or the ’08 version will be similar, probably a bit more DH capable. Adjustable shock shuttle lets you fiddle with the head angle and BB height. I ran mine with a shorter stroke shock and shock shuttle all the way forward for max low and slack: you get very similar frame to the Alpine 160 at a fraction of the price.

I’ve had a Patriot and an Enduro: found the Patriot that little bit sprightlier (sp?) on the climbs.

I’m currently riding a Trek Remedy. Again ticks all the boxes. Again a bit happier on the climbs than a Patriot. Probably not that many about frame only, but I’d think you’d be able to get an ’08 for about £400.

If you do have to go slack those new Cane Creek Anglesets look interesting: but need a 1.5 or tapered headtube and probably cost a bomb.

Still the cardboard under insole bit. That’s where my last Impacts failed. Now whenever they get wet I remove the insole to allow it to dry fully. We’ll see if that makes a difference.

Very happy with mine. Fair bit more water/splash protection than standard impacts. Still soak through when its really wet.