Got mine built up last night. Couple of quick rides today and very promising. It’s not light but pedals very well despite just setting to the guapo tube without extra fiddling. Not sure I have the time/patience to play around with the shock settings. We do really need someone who knows their suspension to give us some base settings..

One problem I came across was fitting a chain guide. Got a Truvativ XO guide (MRP G2) and the chain is too far inboard (32t ring on XTR M970 chain set middle ring position, one 2.5mm spacer drive side on BB). Never going to work with the offset 30t ringmaster NW ring I’ve also bought. Anyone had better luck with a chain guide?

Rode the Venosc trail good few years ago and loved it. One of the best trails I’ve ever ridden. Then back again probably 3 years ago, bigged it up to my mate, and was very disappointed- really worn , loads of breaking bumps and not much fun. Going back to AdH in July. Anyone know if the Venosc track has had some love?

Brant: can you confirm what’s happening with new stock of frames please. I ordered and paid for a medium white one on Sunday in store and were told they were landing in the country this week for delivery to me next week. I’ve checked the stock availability on the website and it seems all over the place: changing from out of stock to due in mid August and back again.

Nick: “canyon superstar headset bearing” into google should get you the answer

My Works Components ring is about 6 months old. Had a fair but of use in that time, and visibly worn up close. Started dropping the chain fairly regularly. Definitely due to the ring as no problems after replacing the ring. So from my experience chain retention does get significantly worse with wear.

I got my replacement from Superstar. Only £8. Search on here for the spec.

Old one tapped out very easily with a screwdriver.

As far as I understand it a long front centre (centre of BB to centre of front hub) can add high speed stability to a bike. A slacker HA will give a longer front centre.

Lengthening top tube and at same time reducing the stem length will keep the reach the same, but lengthen the front centre without having to use silly slack HAs (with other undesirable characteristics). It’s what Kona and Mondraker have done.

So you could say a bike with a short stem (and a long top tube) will have similar characterisics to a bike with a longer stem (and a shorter top tube) and a slacker head angle.

I’ve gone from a pair of 2011 36s to some new Pikes.

The reviews made me think I’d be transformed into a riding god. I’m not. The Pikes are very nice in a ‘don’t really notice them at all’ way, maybe get less arm pump on long rocky stuff.

Think us bikers are fooled by mag reviews into thinking there’s a huge difference between stuff where there’s really not. Hell, Jared Graves is leading the first round of the EWS on 26″ wheels.

Would I buy the Pikes if I had my time again: Yes I love them!!!

Sat on one of the full builds yesterday and I was impressed, decent clearance at the rear with a big tyre, looking generally tidy and well put together. Good looking bike.
Where?

Sheffield Planet-X store. Think it was the personal bike of one of the guys that works there. I asked nicely and they fetched it from ‘out the back’.

Sat on one of the full builds yesterday and I was impressed, decent clearance at the rear with a big tyre, looking generally tidy and well put together. Good looking bike.

I’d be very tempted to get one but deal breaker for me without a proper test ride to change my mind (never ridden a 29er before) would be the stack height: big wheels + proper fork + external headset puts the bars really high. Stack height on the on-one headset is big . Brant: are their any other lower stack heaset options? Can’t help thinking a different headtube to take an internal headset would make a lot of sense on these.

Do bear in mind that I like to run my bars lower than most, but I’d imagine almost everyone running these will end up slamming the stem and running flat bars.

You sure the clutch is working: they can break internally.

Probably just a bedding in thing: stiction in the bushings and seals is holding the p fork up in it’s travel. Ride it a bit and you will probably have to add more air.

Pretty sure it was a 200×57 I fitted to mine. So long ago now I forgot the original and new shock dimensions though.

anyway a slightly shorter eye to eye shock with shorter stroke will allow you to lower the bb and slacken the head angle a treat. You will lose a tiny bit of travel if that bothers you. I moved the shock shuttle forward as far as I could without the rear tyre hitting the seat tube at full travel to lower the bb. IMO makes a far better trail bike set up like this.

I’ve only had my Charge LR a couple of rides so can’t comment on durability, but in terms of comfort, organisation, stability and ease of getting to stuff in hip pockets I’m loving it so far.

Serviced mine after only a few hours use, just to check enough oil in there (didn’t turn out to be much oil at all so glad I did it).

One slight issue was when I removed the lowers a tiny ring of metal came out of each lower: looked similar to a stripped thread but a complete circle: looked to me like each shaft had tightened onto the inside of the lower and crushed the metal there. Bit concerned of this happening again and potentially damaging the internals. Anyone else experienced this??

I’ve got a Strive. At 5’8″ the calculator and an email to canyon said a small. I compared to existing bikes and loads of pouring over online measurements for different frames and ended up going with a medium. I am very glad I did: it feels just right.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/sombrio-winter-shoes-ss-chainrings-chain-devices-pearl-izumi-baggies-etc-1

f you are a size 8.5 my sombrio shazams in the classifieds

As has been said 9 and 10 speed rings are the same.

I’ve got a set of rings for sale if you are interested:

SLX chainrings: 42 – 32 – 22. Marked as 9speed but will work equally well with 10 speed. Brand new never used. £35.

Five ten maltese falcon. On offer at jejames at moment with an extra 10% off today. Are pretty true to size.

I know: already expired when I first posted

I’ve got a 59 plate VRS estate. Bought 10 months ago with 95k, since done 12k ish miles with only a cheapish aux water pump failure. I love it.

Common Rail engines replaced the PD diesel engines in 2009: PD engines seemed to suffer a lot of DPF issues but CR engines largely trouble free. mpg anywhere between 45 and 60mpg depending how I drive.

Fairly basic spec on most VRS compared to a lot if similar cars: xenons, heated seats, auto lights and wipers etc are relatively rare. Likely to get a lot more with a Mondeo or Mazda 6 which I also looked at (they are a bit bigger too). I also didn’t get on with the seats: very aggressive side bolsters which hurt my legs (same seats as you get on a Golf though). Seats are part leather, part fabric, part silver alcantara stuff which does not suit an outdoor lifestyle! There are a fair few with black leather though which might be worth searching out.

Good support through briskoda.net but can suck you into the modding game: based on the VW Golf so loads of upgrade bits available!

Will find them out for a picture tomorrow

I’ve got a pair for sale. 2 rides only so almost perfect. £65 posted.

2.2 ust black chillies.

Had a few warranty issues with my Canyon (though none related to any failure of the frame itself), all been dealt with to my satisfaction in the end, though recent problem has taken a while longer than I would have liked.

If I were being kind, and after my experiences of a recent phone call with one of their guys, I’d say sometimes things are being lost in translation …

Great bikes, great prices, not quite so great customer service.

I’d buy another, but then I’m really tight!

I’ve done the 1×10 with a WorksComponents thick-thin chainring & granny (no front shifter) for a little while now and it makes a lot of sense for me.

Previously ran 1×10 32 front & 11-36 rear. Was fine for short steep climbs but long climbs and big days out would knacker me out a fair bit more than 2×10.

Was going to Snowdon so chucked the granny back on, then never took it off. Don’t use the granny on local rides, but when I’m out in the Peak with long climbs I drop the chain at the bottom of the climb, then slip it back on at the top. Saves a fair bit of weight(shifter, cables, front mech), and have never dropped a chain (after some wierd teething problems with the thick-thin ring first ride out). So save weight, gain chain retention, and waste about 5 seconds changing chain by hand which I probably do 5 or 6 times a month.

Still tempted by one of those 42t sprockets though and would have one by now if a German guy would reply to me!

I can get my mountain bike with 160mm forks and 750mm bars in the boot of my mk2 octavia estate without putting the rear seats down. Try that in a 3 series.

Do a search. I’ve got one and happy with it, though seen a recent (bikemagic?) review where it got a mild slating- looked like a rear shock issue from what I remember.

Oldgit YGM

There’s some decent fitting info on the Park Tools site. You will need the special crank removal tool to take the cranks off, but not to fit.

The threaded plastic ring is not needed: all it does is stop muck getting to the threads in the LH arm: as long as you clean them out before using the crank removal tool you’re fine.

BB fitment is standard: if its a 68mm BB shell on the bike you’ll need 2 spacers between BB cop and frame on the driveside, 1 non-drive, if 73mm BB shell then just 1 on drive side.

I had similar experience with my 36 rlt. Seems fixed by a touch more rebound damping.

I’ve ridden the Ranger a few times and the Rhyd Dhu once (last time). Really enjoyed it, I walked a few very short bits (exposure plus slow techy moves) near the top, then all flowed really well. Seems much better VFM than the Ranger: didn’t lose all the height quickly as I remember from the Ranger.

Only downside for us was the hordes of 3 Peakers heading in the opposite direction…

Did the Red Pike descent a few years back. I bottled the top scree gully but everyone else I was with rode it, scrubbing speed while still steering was the challenge. Remember a lot of steps after that. I managed to ride almost all of it, loved it, got right down the bottom where it flattened out, relaxed and OTB!

Loads of conflicting information about DPF removal. I’ve read replies from DoT stating that DPF removal is not an MOT fail so not sure about the above statements that it is illegal and never heard of any prosecutions or MOT problems. The particulate emissions check in the MOT is simply a visual check of the colour of the exhaust gases.

If I get DPF issues I’d be booking it in with Shark Performance in Mansfield (plenty of other companies will do this too) for them to gut and replace the DPF and remap the car while they are at it. Then no way of knowing the DPF has been gutted so less worries if there are any future MOT changes.

I’ve got a Strive and very happy with it. It’s a 160mm bike with 36 forks and pedals very well for the travel, and given the value you’ll be probably able to build it a fair bit lighter than a lot of similar bikes for a given price.

As been said above the Canyon Nerve might be more what you are after.

Weight loss without performance loss at a sensible price-

Carbon bars
Renthal non lock-on grips
Xtr m970 cranks
Works components XX ‘copy’ chainring and clutch mech so you can lose the chain device.

Otherwise I’d leave it exactly as it is!

Great advice and suggestions guys: keep them coming.

Given all the comments on price I may have a week or so on the French side of the border then a quick raid over to Italy.

The needle rollers should stay put if you are careful: they will be stuck in with whatever grease is in there.

While you are at it, you might want to check all your pivot bearings. I’ve had my Strive since July last year (though it was an ‘ex-demo’), and one of the bearings on the rocker, and one of the main pivot bearings were completely shot.

I ran 160mm 36s on my 2010 remedy. It was a warranty replacement for a 2009 frame and no geometry changes from the 2009 bikes which came with 36s as standard . Do it, but will void your warranty if you tell Trek.

Like the casemate tough i have for my s2

Just edited my post above (gave up from my phone and switched to the laptop!)

My Canyon took about a week to come (but was ‘in stock’). I had actually ordered a YT which I then cancelled. Bewared of YT estimated delivery times if not in stock and back ordered: I think I would have been waiting at least 3 months for ‘my bike’. Sure this won’t be an issue with in stock bikes or at this time of year.