My 55 Ti’s have now done two seasons without a service, still feel mint but not sure whether I should think about changing the oil yet… any thoughts? They don’t get a massive abount of abuse but are moderately well used I’d say.

Yes I find my knees hurt less now as I spend less time peddaling with my saddle too low thanks to the dropper post, but my riding is DH orientated so I was well used to standing up a lot anyway. You may get used to it.

I’ve gone 1 x 10 on both my bikes, I only really miss the granny on very long steep climbs but otherwise no problem.

Good luck.

Hora I know what you mean on the subtitling, I have been amazed at some programs recently when “Johnny Foreigner” speaking perfectly clear English with a accent gets subtitled for the hard of thinking hearing while people with heavy regional english accents do not, its bordering on slightly racist.

The resort shops are a captive market and they need to make their money for the year in two months, generally the prices are not too bad for most stuff. But key things that people break and must buy now in order to be able to enjoy their holiday are marked up obviously, as are really trendy things that people might get carried away and want while on holiday. Hang around til the end of the season and get some bargains…

I’m building myself up to having a go at a 15ft gap jump next season – I have easily cleared the 15ft table just before it on the run in so I’m mentally ready 🙂 If I clear it I’ll be hanging a right and having a go at a 6ft woodwork drop just after. I’ll have to wait until May but in my mind its already done.

I’m 39 year old father of three – yes and yes to the above but its all about the run in / run out and general sketchiness – I’d hit bigger if they are simple and well made but would avoid if they are not well made and have poor run ins and run outs. If they work and flow as part of a trail I’d hit them no problem. If I’m not 100% confident I won’t hit it. If I don’t think a mistake would end well or be easy to ride out I won’t hit it.

The only time I’ve done it was during the Megavalanche due to arm / hand pump. Similarly I switch from right to left foot forward to switch things up for my thighs. I’m fitter now so don’t find the need arises generally, my grip feels much stronger with index finger braking and the short levers on the newer shimano brakes make the position on the bar easy to get right.

I had a great experience at my LBS yesterday afternoon – helpful, enthusiastic, honest advice, really great. Made me think I must go further out of my way to support my LBS as when I need them it would be crap if there were not there.

Had a great Dad and number 1 son autumn bike ride last Friday afternoon, lots of skids in the leaves and good fun. Can’t beat it 🙂

I do think crashing in a semi-controlled way and bailing are key skills in mountainbiking but not sure how you learn it other than through experience. The pro’s bounce better due to their fitness and strength training no doubt but experience also counts for a lot. But sometimes it doesn’t matter you can just be unlucky.

I have several damaged finger joints and knuckles on my right hand, and have found that I get pain when riding on long rough descents. Also very vulnerable to bashes when crashing or branches etc.

They do get better very slowly to a point, it took a year for a couple of the injuries to complete their healing process, I fidn that wearing a well armoured glove helps with branches etc, and using Marzocchi coil forks significantly reduces arm pump and hand pain, they are so plush on the first part of the stroke it does make a huge difference I find.

Its the same argument for 29’ers vs 26’ers. I find a full on DH bike allows me to hit stuff faster, but it feels a bit less fun at the kind of speeds I ride which is not warp speed.

Hence I no longer ride a DH bike cos I’m old and at the speeds I can go on a DH rig falling off could be nastier and I don’t feel the need. 160mm is plenty for most of the riding I do.

Fun not speed – smaller wheels, less travel.

I have just got some Renthal Fatbar Lite’s and I find them very nice, I like the fact that the Renthal bars have less sweep than many other bars. They are not the lightest but never mind.

It will the bike fit / sizing along with Geometry, along with the suspension travel / set up and stem / bar – in short everything 🙂

Marketing guff is one thing, but companies making stuff that is intended to be great for exactly the type of riding most people do is brilliant isn’t it? Eh?

I have a bike or two now that are so much more versatile and fun that than bikes I used to ride 10 years ago, makes my sport as good as it has ever been. Marketeers will always be there, but some of the product is really rather good these days.

I used to ride at Aston on a hardtail, good tyres a must and if its wet its almost impossible to hold a line on the off camber rooty sections but otherwise I reckon you should have fun. The new freeride trail they have there looks pretty smooth I’ve not ridden it but from the vids it looks fine for a HT.

Is it just me who quite likes that? I prefer to use a full face when riding generally and a cooler helmet with some face protection would be welcome.

I have a standard single front ring, clutch rear mech and now MRP AMG front guide with a top guide only and a taco to avoid bashing the front ring. All good so far…

My wife got me an inbred frame around the time we got engaged – I have had it 10 years now and it is now my commuter bike so I ride more than any other bike I own (sadly). It has the rat look but it still going strong. Its an old friend.

Oops double post

I’ve not had hope brakes for years, having used shimano recently. I find the xtr trail brakes very powerful and easy to maintain but they are on off in feel, I found the excellent deore brakes to have modulation. But I agree that you tend to get used to them either way quite quickly. Glad to hear that hope brakes are so good these days perhaps I’ll buy British next time.

I think I’ll stick with what I have now, I think it’s pretty much ideal for the riding I do and I can ride it all day.

Yeah just goes to show that all the weight is in the frame and forks and tyres really, tinkering doesn’t change that. Quite a different bike though I think.

Final scores on the doors:

Weight before 33.6 lbs

Weight now 32.8 lbs

I changed the:

bars – from Rethal Fat bar 780mm to Fatbar Lites 740mm
cranks – from SLX to XT
brakes – from Deore to XT Trail
rotors – From Hope Floating 203 / 180 to Shimano Ice 180 / 180
wheels – From Hope with Flow EX’s to Hope with Arch EX’s
chain device – from E13 LG1 to MRP AMG
pedals – From DMR Vaults to Nukeproof.

I spent approx. 500 quid.

If I had only been doing this to make my bike lighter I would have been a bit miffed, but since it was mainly an exercise in freeing up some parts for a freeride bike build and making my trail bike a bit less like a DH bike while retaining its all-round capability then I am pretty happy with it.

Baby owl in a hat!

I don’t think this difficulty with supply chains is uncommon – I don’t think Cotic is the first or last small bike company to have difficulty getting a bacth produced when initially promised. I am sure they like it even less than you do – I really hope that we consumers support them and companies that charge a bit but produce here in the UK. Some things are worth spending a bit more on.

I used to ride 10 miles each way from Kew Gardens to Spitalfields Market each day, was ace way better than being stuck on the tube. Occasionally got a bit hairy when in the City as it was so busy with pedestrians and traffic but otherwise I managed to do a fair bit on the thames path and in parks so I really enjoyed it.

Depends on log wide your shoulders are, how long your arms are and how tall you are and the size of your frame surely?

Long arms wide shoulders = wide bars (740 to 780)

If the frame has long top tube which an alpine does I think then 50mm stem.

I think 50mm stem and 740mm bars for an enduro type bike is pretty spot on these days unless you have short arms?

Painfully true.

It still comes down to the industry deciding that all people want to do is cover a distance off-road in the the least possible time, which for many of us is simply not true.

Bars turn first then hips, turning the bars to start the whip and to bring it back as well

A slack head angle and low BB enable you to drift your bike around more and have more fun with your smaller wheels. 🙂

2012 55 RC3 Ti’s here – they are the nuts. Just got some 2012 66 RC3 Ti’s in the sales – can’t wait to try them next season 🙂

Nothing but 26 inch wheels in my garage and hopefully it will remain so for a very long time. I just can’t see the point of it all, who are all these ordinary punters who DEMAND!!! the highest performance bike no matter what? I like riding bikes for fun, the slower I can go and still have a laugh the better.

But at the end of the day there is so little difference between 26″ and 650b that it hardly matters, when and if my current bikes expire I may get one but not just becuase it is 650b.

As for 29’ers – no way, I really think they will become a bit niche.

Buy a pair of Hope Pro 2 Evo on Stans Flow EX and pocket 200 pounds

I have used a broker in Marlow called Pure FX who have never let me down.

Travel not adjustable no but don’t worry about the handling its built for big forks and has a nice long top tube so still climbs OK. Super short chainstays! I am 6’1″ and it fitted me a treat.

I have got a funny feeling that Shan frame is actually the one I sold!

Both frame and forks were in mint nick when I sold them.