OP are you in the midlands as I have an old Halfords trailer in the garage you can have? Just need to check I’ve got all the bits…

Yep, his job is to check that the chip they’re designing will do what it’s supposed to do before they commit $$$ to have it manufactured. The company promoting the video make the software that he uses to do the verification.

I’ve got these (27.5) tubeless with a stan’s rubber rim strip/valve (it was my first try at tubeless and so threw money at the problem rather than going ghetto) in sun ringle rims. Work brilliantly. Barely ever have to top up the air pressure and haven’t burped them yet. Reminds me. I really ought to refresh the sealant before Morzine ;)

I’ve just swapped the cranks on one of our bikes so have a 170mm SLX crankset (no chainrings) surplus to requirement. They’re M7000 – were used as 1x but I *think* the same chainset can also be used as 2x (certainly has the drillings for an inner chainring. Let me know if it’s of interest.

I’ve come to the conclusion that I’d be better off with a full-on road bike again since I’ve only ever used my tripster on road. Over the winter it sat on the turbo trainer(!)

It’s a 57cm V1 Tripster built with a mix of Ultegra-level (RS685 hydraulics) and 105-level components (mechs, cassette). I’ll probably split and keep the components for an Aithein disc build, but please let me know if you’d be interested in a complete bike before I post the frame up on classifieds.

It’s a dab.

Most of the above relevant unless you’re caught by IR35. Honestly OP your question can’t really be answered without a detailed understanding of IR35 (or your willingness to be open to future tax liabilities). Read up on IR35. If you’ve a prospective private sector client and can agree (and be prepared to demonstrate) an IR35 compliant contract and working practices then if above £40k or so (maybe less, depends on your accountancy fees) go Ltd.

Hijack, but which frame did you go for and how much tyre clearance? Will it take 30mm?

Swapped all the Ali nipples on my crosslights for brass once they started breaking

@j4mes – one problem I had when first setting up the t2240 for use with smaller wheels (not 26″ but a 650c on my son’s road bike) was that although I *thought* I was using the correct mounting holes for smaller wheels, I hadn’t pushed the brake unit on fully so I was using the “small wheel holes” at the front but the “large wheel hole” at the back. The drilling positions are close enough that it’s fairly easy (for me at least) to do this without realising – it basically means the brake unit sits slightly proud of the frame. It was only when I had trouble calibrating it that I double checked everything and realised what I’d done. Might be worth another go.

@j4mes – what size tyre are you using? Is it a knobbly or a slick?

Well, I’m running 30mm s-ones on not-officially-disc kinesis crosslight rims @75psi

@j4mesj4mes – the t2240 is fine with 26″ wheels and is directly measuring roller speed, from which it estimates power, not wheel speed (what Nathb says is only true for dumb trainers where you use a separate wheel rotation sensor and then correlate that to power via wheel speed)

BUT… there are two positions for the brake unit to fit on the A frame when assembly the unit. Did you definitely fit it in the holes for 26″ wheels? If not tension will be wrong even if the lines are “calibrated”

Red box just means highest (and lowest) value in that data field (weight, power,hr) for that event

Just read the first page and scrolled forward to recommend Westworld but see I’ve been beaten to it.

One of the best things I’ve seen in a while.

That’s clamped pretty tight. I keep mine just over the lower line.

TBH, 1.5w/kg over 40k/~2w/kg over 20k isn’t terrible if you’re just getting going again. Keep going and you’ll find it improves quickly

My neo arrives tomorrow. Tacx flow now surplus to requirements. Will post an ad in classifieds over weekend but pm me if interested. Thinking £120 cash delivered if you’re anywhere near derby or reading.

It’s the S3 storage service that’s down out of the AWS east coast data center/region. Anyone who is down, like strava, should really be using multiple regions for resilience but clearly isn’t..

Aargh strava is down due to AWS storage service outage. Can’t pore over my BRS TT performance. I *think* I broke 3w/kg over the 10miles for the first time. I was 2.3ish back in Nov…

Well, that was fun. Felt harder than 2.3w/kg, but turns out that’s pretty much exactly what it worked out at.

Shall we try discord with “push to grunt” enabled?

@crosshair – count me in for pretzel at 18:30. I’ll follow you on zwift in case i’m running late and need to catch up.

Yes, the “official” segments didn’t show up for me in the overview until I favourited them. Definitive list here:

http://zwiftblog.com/verified-zwift-strava-segments/

The resistance of the T2240 is automatically and remotely controlled by zwift (in response to changes in terrain or in erg mode training sessions) over Bluetooth or ant+ *if* connected correctly. See my previous answer about what combinations work. If you have a windows PC you need either an ant+ USB dongle or you need to use the mobile link app on an android or iOS phone to connect to the trainer, and then from the phone to the PC. If running zwift itself on iPad or iPhone it should just work with bluetooth

EDIT: I just realised you earlier said t2240 (which behaves as I’ve described) but in your last post you said t2400. The t2400 reports power but is not fully smart as it does not automatically change resistance. It has a cable operated resistance unit.

The t2240 can be controlled, and report power, over ant+ or BT. However BT control with zwift only works:

1. Natively on mac using the mac built in BT. BT on windows PC does not work natively.
2. On windows or mac using the separate zwift mobile link app on an iOS or android phone connected to the same wifi/wired network as the PC/mac running zwift. Here mobile link is effectively translating BT data:control to wifi
3. Natively on iOS.

I’ve tried 1,2 (mac only)& 3

Ant+, using dongle on extension cable from mac, seems to work better for me. Much less lag in changing resistance.

I feel the need for a table of possible options

@Nobby – Zwift take a community-first approach to a bunch of stuff including the user guide. This is a good/popular resource:

http://www.titaniumgeek.com/cycling/zwift-user-manual-unofficial-running-updates/

NB you’ll likely want to create/connect a strava account and a zwiftpower account to your zwift account as any offline analysis or race results will typically depend on one or both of those.

EDIT: Also I seem to remember that zwift doesn’t support ANT+ on iOS (even with the dongle), but you’ve already found that out.

I was in the same position as the OP a few years ago. Bought an airnimal Joey. Worked for me. Not travelling as much now so up for sale if interested. Will post an ad on here at some point but please PM if interested in the meantime

Discord is a good idea. Can we create our own “channel” on that?

With a bit more notice next time I’ll do it. Same time next week, or perhaps a slightly shorter ride a bit later to be a bit more family friendly?

Does anyone know how to create an official Zwift event? We could have a series of our own – STW in addition to KISS, BRS, ZRT etc. We could specialise in talking about riding online a lot, and then faffing for 10 minutes after the official event start time getting bikes out of the back of cars and then complaining up the first hill that there’s something not quite right with the bike and how we used to be a lot fitter than this.

So is the pretzel at 6.30pm a go-er? I might have a go at that. Pace sounds ok but have only done max of 2 hours up til now..

Yup, all (*) alloy nipples corrode and do that in time in the U.K. Winter road salt makes it happen faster. Once one goes others usually do too.

(Just relaced two wheels with brass nipples for this reason).

(*) Sapim apparently have a high end alloy nipple with special anodising that lasts a lot longer

On the topic of longer rides on turbo/zwift. Following the recommendation of an earlier poster I’ve been testing one of those weird looking ISM saddles. It needed a layback post to get right position but it’s made a big difference to amount of discomfort/numbness on rides over an hour. Did 2+ hours yesterday over two stints with a short break and felt fine after.

Looks like “Team STW” took bronze place in last nights KISS C/D race :)

http://www.zwiftpower.com/race.php?id=3100

(Unfortunately you can’t direct link to the team results page so click on the “Team” tab to show the team results).

powerup

Oh, and to actually answer your question – push harder on the uphills. It’s physics – on the flat/downhill there’s a bigger impact from air resistance (even in the virtual world of Zwift) and that’s non-linear so there’s diminishing speed returns for more power. Up hill, you’re going slower overall but every extra watt produces relatively more speed than it would on the flat

4. Adjust power to sit in a group that lets you travel faster at the same nominal average W/kg

At least, that’s what I’ve been trying to do. However, having moved into C (in KISS at least, still D in BRS terms) at ~2.8W/kg, I seem to be sat in no mans land between the fast Cs and the recently-promoted. Which means it becomes a solo TT :(

I’m going to do KISS C/D race tonight. However, I’ve switched back to a dumb trainer (with separate power meter) for now so that my son can use the T2240 and that requires manually moving the resistance unit with allen keys for the 650 wheels on his mini-roadbike…

(As an aside – worth noting that if you’re a paid Zwift member, they’ll give you a free membership for 13-and-unders in the same family)

Were you taking random turns to make a combo segment few others use?

I had no lag this evening, but had it badly during the KISS TT/GCN meltdown on Wednesday and at various other times. I have however just switched today from Bluetooth (I have a mac, so can connect bluetooth directly and don’t need to use mobile link) over to ANT+, so that might have made a difference but too early to tell.

Alpgirl I don’t think you’ll necessarily get that problem back, just don’t yank the power cord out and it should stay in place. I think most of them develop the low speed creak sooner or later. I don’t mind that though.

New PB up Box Hill. Frustrating close to getting under 9. Still, I feel pretty good about the improvement over the last 2months. More W, fewer kg (body weight down 15% (although that’s since July), FTP up 25%). Weeksy, thank you for starting this thread it’s made a huge difference :D