About 85-90 ish in my GP4000s but they are 28c. Seems to work.

I really fancy a Stache 5. Are the being officially imported now then?

I have.

Got a Vito Sport 115 on a 57 plate. I bought it privately at about 5 years old with about 34k on the clock for 12 grand. It’s only got just over 40k on the clock now because I rarely use it (work from home and it’s a second vehicle mainly for biking trips away).

Anyway, I find it comfortable to drive. Pretty civilised all round. Had no hassles with it. The radio/speakers are a bit shite so may get upgraded soon.

Mine has 5 seats (two at the front and a row of three in the back which fold up). Plenty of space for bikes and weekend away gear – although there are usually only two of us.

A double air bed also fits quite snugly in the back if you want to sleep in there.

For road use, my Garmin 810 seems to work fine. No problem loading routes onto it and following them with turn by turn navigation. You do need to buy the City Navigator maps on top of the pre loaded base map for turn by turn navigation to work properly though. Not tried it off road.

Nice bike Scaredy. I have a non disc 2014 Synapse hi mod that I really like.

You know you’re not supposed to put spacers above the stem if you’re using the ‘Dale steerer bung thing though? The bung is supposed to be under the stem clamps to give the steerer more internal support.

I didn’t get valves with mine (XTC Advanced 2), but did get rim strips. Pretty sure it’s a DT Swiss rim strip and I got some DT Swiss valves which have all worked fine. That’s just from memory though.

Yes it’s Debonair. However that comes from the factory. Not sure how to check for volume reducers but will see what Mr Google says.

are you only getting full travel on the big jumps but getting 70-80% for most of the trail? what weight are you and what trails are you riding on?

Yeah something like that. I’m 178cm and about 82kg (does not include riding gear, I’m taller in a helmet ;-).

Setup – dunno really. How do you define what is right? I’ve played with the pressure and rebound settings a bit. To get it feeling “plush” and to get full travel I seem to need to run it with a fair bit of sag (30-40%) but that seems to defeat the purpose of having the travel there in the first place.

Bling is nice but not the main reason. Wouldn’t want something bling that doesn’t actually improve performance.

I like them. Only issue I have is that the softer more rubbery sole (compared to the more plastic like material used in older / other shoes), does have a habit of squeaking a bit against the pedal. I use Time MTB pedals so may just be that combination. A bit of WD40 on the pedal surface usually sorts it out for a while.

I use these things from Bike Inside in Germany –

Bike Inside Racks[/url]

Watch out for the dodgy music when you open the site though. Ack.

I just got one for a smidge over 300 on Amazon.

I like it. Does all the stuff I need and a ton of stuff I don’t need. I was previously using a Polar RCX5 which I also liked but given that I use a Garmin 810 on my road bike it made sense to have everything Garmin and keep all my courses / activities in one place.

One downside compared to the Polar is that the Garmin doesn’t seem to be able to display as much information as clearly in one place. Having a round screen rather than a square screen probably doesn’t help in that respect.

Pros and cons and all that.

Years ago I drove to Coed Y Brenin (Probably 10 years or more and about a 4 hour drive), only to find I’d left the bag with all my cycling gear in at home. Went over to Energy Cycles at Llanberis and bought shoes, shorts, long and short sleeve tops, helmet, Camelback, gloves. Expensive mistake but I got to ride that weekend and I still have and use the tops I bought that day and only recently stopped using the shoes. Probably cost me a few hundred quid.

Shame no Stache 5 but I’d be interested in frame only and build it up rigid to my tastes. Hmmmmm………

Firstly, I haven’t ridden an ebike. I can see that they could be fun though.

Having said that, my concern is over access as others have already mentioned. I understand but don’t buy the argument about it being pedal assist rather than motorised. The pedal assist bit and the cutout at >15mph can both be over ridden with a bit of tinkering as far as I can see.

Fundamentally, if it has a motor it is motorised.

MapMyRide is pretty good.

I just tried a very light sanding. Much better now although still feels like the tape would be much easier to use if it was a bit stickier and a bit more flexible.

For tuen by turn navigation I looked at the Garmin 810 and 1000. The 1000 is technically “better” and has a bigger screen but the 810 is smaller (which I like), cheaper and does everything I need. So far very happy with the 810 for road use. Not tried it off road.

Some good stuff around Les Arcs. Went with Trail Addiction last year and you really do need a guide to find a lot of the off the beaten track stuff. I do have some GPS plots but a knowledgable guide is still a better option.

What is short travel these days?

Whyte T130 with 130mm at each end –

From Dropbox, as I said, make sure the file is in the Public folder and make sure you copy the public link.

To do this, right click on the file in the public folder then select “copy public link”.

The link will look like this – https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/41511358/2014-04-24%2010.32.32.jpg

Note that it starts with dl That means it’s a public link.

When pasted into the IMG dialog on the forum it shows like this –

To share pics on the forum you need to put the pictures into the “Public” folder in Dropbox. Then in dropbox select the file and choose “copy public link”. That’s the link you want to post to the forum.

In the forum, select the “IMG” button above the posting box and that will open a dialog box. Paste the link into there and press ok.

The dialog box already has http::/ at the start so when pasting your link make sure you don’t get that in twice as it will already be at the start of the link you copied from Dropbox.

We’re going to Slovenia in June with Cycle Active. No past experience to go on but the info on their website doesn’t say anything about restrictions.

Who are you going with? If an organised/guided trip have you asked the organisers?

Rear brake hose is internally routed.

No rear mech fitting on the SCR. It’s single ring specific. The chainstays also wouldn’t give space for additional rings.

I’d Prefer a free hub to a freewheel. Probably. Already have some old Phil Wood hubs on one bike with a White Ti freewheel. Have Chris King on another bike. Haven’t bought any for a long time though so wanted to see what was recommended these days. Not keen on the amount of noise Hopes make.

I like mine (2015 works scr). Will be taking it to Afan at the weeken.

I changed the bars and stem and the rear tyre. Other than that, all good.

Thanks for the recommendations.

Does the standard mudhugger rear fit most frames? I want to put it on a Whyte T130 and probably one for the other halfs Trek Lush. Is the fitting pretty generic? I see there are some models specific to certain bikes so I guess it’s not one size fits all.

You want to make a warranty claim for a tiny chip in the paint? You’re having a laugh right? You want to just get out and ride more and spend less time obsessing over stem lengths and colour co-ordination.

F#ck what the cool kids think. Mudguards are not aesthetically pleasing but they serve a purpose. If they get you out riding when you wouldn’t bother without them they are a good thing. If they keep you clean and dry rather than cold, wet and muddy they are a good thing. You really think there’d be some aero performance gain without mudguards? That’s nuts. Anyway, embrace the bad weather, fit some mudguards, dress appropriately and get out and ride.

Ditch the mudguards in the summer though. They’re ugly and slow you down 😉

My cats use them.

I had DA on my last road bike. Not sure what version. I liked it. Got SRAM Red on the new one and I like that too. Works, feels nice, double tap doesn’t take much getting used to.

I’ve got one of these –

Had it from new. Getting on a bit now but still like it and it’s a bit different.

I had a look at the 810 and 1000 side by side in Evans today.

1000 is big innit? Not really sure I fancy something that large stuck to my bars/stem. The 810 looks like a much more compact size which I like. For road use, the 810 would probably be my choice. I can see that the 1000s bigger screen would be useful off road if using OS/OSM mapping but probably overkill for the road.

Cheers

DB

As per Hainman – wife and I had a set of these each and the D30 stuff in the elbow pads split into multiple pieces on both pairs. That was with very light use and no washing. Knee pads are holding up ok so far. Wouldn’t recommend them though.

For a road bike that isn’t used in a seriously hilly or mountainous area, in reasonably good weather, rim brakes are “fine”. Plenty good enough for the job.

Disc brakes will be “better” in terms of power and probably modulation/feel. They may be an advantage if you do live in a very hilly or mountainous area or ride in really bad weather.

Just to throw in another option – if you want more power, how about hydraulic rim brakes? The SRAM Red hydraulic brakes look like a good halfway house –

SRAM RED Hydraulic Rim Brakes

My BPW routine is to avoid it completely and go somewhere where I can ride my bike for more than 10 minutes without then having to queue for a bus. Whatever floats your boat though.

I just ordered a new road bike (high end),with rim brakes.

For the kind of riding I do, in the conditions I generally ride in, rim brakes are plenty good enough. There isn’t masses of barking involved in most road rides. I don’t really see much need or desire for disc brakes for most road applications. If I lived in a mountainous area, road cx or was commuting then maybe.

Having said that, if the industry decides they want to move everything that way (and if the UCI buy into it), to drive sales then rim brakes could go the way of 26″ wheels on MTBs. Hopefully that won’t happen but you never know.

The bike I just bought is likely to last me for the next 10 years assuming no crashes or structural issues so I’m not really worried about what might happen next year or the year after. When it’s time for a new bike I’ll go with whatever is around at that point.

Picture shows for me. Anyone else able to see it?

Blatant plug……..

I’ve got this for sale at the moment –

Very nice aluminium frame, Dura Ace 10 speed double. Dura Ace gears, brakes, shifters, cranks. Mavic Ksyrium SSC SL wheels. 3T carbon bars.

Open to offers…….

Wheel is approx 10 yrs old so guess I’d just have to try it and see if it fits.

Thanks

Yeah aware of the sportive style. I never use the drops though, only ever use the bar tops or hoods so thinking I might as well just have a flat bar. I converted my old road bike to a flat bar and I like it.