Buy a triple and unbolt the granny ring?
You don’t say what chainset you have, however assuming its a standard double with 104/64 BCD then you’re going to struggle getting rings that fit.

I thought the issue was with the tabs on the octalink granny ring fouling the HT2 BB. Can’t remember any compatibility issues going the other way.
I know what you mean about chainring costs, in your position I would buy the Deore chainset, swap the rings and sell on the arms and BB.

I run a 3C Rekon on the front and have just put the dual compound version on the back. Initial impressions are that they cope with mud as good as any other non-mud specific tyre (it’s a nice, open pattern that sheds mud well) whilst being better at everything else. They’re expensive but IMO they’re worth it.

I’m needing to work out which version of the hub it is

Pull one of the end caps off and measure the axle diameter. Pro 2’s are 15mm, evo’s are 17mm.

Next batch due in 4 weeks.

I have it on good authority that the next batch of Cotic Solaris will be boost back ends with clearance for a 3″ tyre.

Another +1 for the Decathlon mudguards. I’ve been using them on the kids bikes for years.

I’m running a 2.8 Rekon on a 30mm internal rim in a standard Pike. No clearance issues, I’ve even got room for a mudhugger in there. Tried a 3.0 Vittoria Bomboloni but that was a bit tight.

I have E4’s. With genuine hope pads they’re silent, however the superstar sintered pads I have in at the moment howl like a Vulcan Bomber. It’ll be back to hope pads when they wear out that’s for sure.

To answer the op,no it definitely won’t fit. The part of the hub that sits behind the seal with the pawls and bearing in is a larger diameter on the pro 4.

Well I loved the vittoria bomboloni that I had on the front of my solaris, however the clearance wasn’t good enough and started to wear the insides of the fork. If I had a boost fork and clearance at the back, it would be top of my list. Never been a fan of Schwalbe personally.

Vittoria Bomboloni :)

I’ve had nanos and dmr vaults. The bearings in the vaults were made of cheese and were totally knackered after 900 miles, even with regular stripping, cleaning and re-greasing. The nanos on the other hand have never been touched and are well over 3000 miles and still going strong.
My money would go on some more nanos.

Another yes.

I’d always go slightly wider to ensure that you don’t lift the edge when removing tyres. Industry Nine torch tape would be my recommendation in 32mm width.

Well I wouldn’t have one.

I’d have the Rocket instead. It pedals just as well and doesn’t feel any heavier.

I just carry a bog standard 29er tube. Reason being is that if I did have to fit it, it would sit on the outside of the tyre therefore less chance of nipping it with the beads.

+1 for the wellgo pedals above, both my kids have them and they’re ideal for smaller feet.

My mother in law lives in Florida, it’s as flat as a pancake over there:

I’ve tubelessed beavers and chunky monkeys in the past without issues. As above, assuming the rims are tubeless ready, superstars 25mm rim tape and valves are all you need. Ignore the naysayers and go for it :)

Heavier and narrower than their competition. A mate has them on his SC Solo and dinged them badly on the first ride on a tame section of trail. I’m a big hope fanboy but wouldn’t touch their wheels these days, shame really because I’ve had hope hoops with stans rims in the past and been really pleased with them.

Shimano 180 post mounts use longer bolts and a pair of cup and cone washers above the caliper. Sounds like they would be perfect for what you’re after.

I had a set of SP hope hoops, they were standard 3x lacing.

I have both, sod-all difference other than weight and looks.

I rode my solaris as a 7.5+9er once, it handled ok. Looked a bit odd though, sorry no pictures.

Actually, just noticed you said boost and not plus. In that case I’d go with XM481’s.

Custom built set of DT XM551’s on hope pro 4 hubs by just riding along?
They built me a set of XM481’s 12 months ago and they’ve been spot on. If I was after another + wheelset that’s where my money would go.

Mole grips and a good pull is all you need :)

I was up there in the car today with the wife and kids. Dropping down into Belmont one idiot went round the outside of me on a blind bend (left hander just before the ressie). Turned left at the Black Dog and he pulls up on the left to wait for his mate. 30 seconds later he comes past on the outside of a blind bend again. If something had been coming the other way on both occasions he would have been looking at a head on smash. Absolute bell-end.

26″ Mudhugger with extention on the back of my spitfire and now on my Solaris. Expensive but works very well, even with plus size tyres.

a small branch jammed between the guard & tyre & broke the cable ties

That’s the idea. Cable ties cost a few pence to replace and saves damaging the more expensive bits.

I ran one on my spitfire. Useless without the extention, perfect with. Looks like you’re going to have to spend another £8.

I found that with a pacestar Racing Ralph. Although the tread still looked fine, the level of grip fell off a cliff. I assume it’s because I wore through the top layer of sticky rubber and down to the hard stuff underneath. Tread still looked fine though, I’ve worn other tyres far more with much less loss of grip.

Pop the drive side adaptor off and measure the axle diameter. The pro 2 is 15mm, the EVO is 17mm.

To convert to EVO you need the 2 main bearings, axle, end caps and freehub.

I’ve also tried a spoon and a gobi and didn’t get on with either of them. I keep going back to the original SDG bel-air. I also have the bel-air 2.0 on one bike but it isn’t as comfy as the original.

I would definitely recommend the genuine hope adaptor (I run E4’s on pikes) as the twin pot caliper body is a slightly different shape to a standard body and it will foul on most standard mounts, I’m pretty sure I used to have a Shimano mount which I had to swap for a hope mount as the hope mounts are a subtly different shape to clear the caliper.

And yes, IMO the brakes are as good as the reviews :)

Another happy CM owner here, used to have it on a Ragley Blue Pig, same tyre is now on my Banshee Spitfire. Go for the trail extreme version for the front.

Some ptwoink, others don’t. A more reliable check that the bead has seated is to look at the ridge that all manufacturers put around the bead, there should be a nice even gap of a couple of mm between the ridge and rim. If the ridge dissappears under the rim then it isn’t seated properly. If you’ve got up to 65 psi and the tyre still isn’t seated, have you lubed the beads with a bit of soapy water to help them on their way?

I had an issue with the floating hope rotors fouling on formula oro calipers. Not sure if this affects the formula R’s though. Non floating hope rotors were fine.

I have 120 pikes on a solaris. Started with 3 tokens, felt a bit harsh so dropped to 2.
I’m not sure whether it’s just in my head or not but I’ve had 2 new sets of pikes and when they’re brand new they tend to blow through their travel easier than when they’ve bedded in. I’ve removed one token out of each fork after a couple of months use.

I really like it in 650B+ mode, it just seems to unleash a more fun / hooligan character in the bike and I’m not finding it any slower than the standard 29″ wheels on the normal stuff either. I don’t necessarily think it’s a year round option though, it’s a bit skatey in the mud and I suspect I’ll be putting the standard 29″ wheels back on for the winter.
One thing I would say is if you’re contemplating running B+ then you should go for a boost 110 fork and front wheel, that extra little bit of tyre clearance is enough to run a full 3″ tyre whereas you’ll struggle with anything more than 2.8 in a standard fork. I was originally running a vittoria bomboloni on the front which was an amazing tyre, however there was zero mud clearance and it started to show wear on the fork legs :(