I have the sunrace MX3 and my daughter has the deore. Both work well, the deore is a bit more portly though. I suspect your wobbly sunrace is probably not fitted right.

They’re thin metal shims that fit between the top cap and tapered ring. I usually do it by trial and error. Too many and you’ll be able to see a gap between top cup and seal, too few and it will feel draggy.

I have a reverb on one bike and fox transfer on the other. Based on a sample of 2, I’d have another transfer. It just feels nicer and has a reassuring clunk in operation.

Nick has got it. Same cup and bearing, lower (E) comes with a crown race, upper (5) comes with top cap, tapered ring for gripping the steerer and a few shims to get the seal pre-load right.

I did London to Paris with 4 panniers this time last year. No problems with the handling, just try to get the weight even between the two. I was riding a voodoo bantu with surly ogre forks and an aluminium rack, think it was a topeak one.

As a maxxis 2.8 user, I think you’re already on the best ‘year round’ combo. DHF probably a bit grippier in dryer conditions at the expense of not being as good in mud. The ikon makes a nice fast rear for use in the summer months and if it really dries out, a rekon in maxxterra compound works well on the front.

My dainty 10 year old daughter has a Reba, seems to work OK with 35 psi in it and will grow with her.

^^ What he said ^^
What is important is that there should be a line moulded into the sidewall a couple of mm above the rim. As long as this gap is equal all the way round then it’s sat right. If the line disappears under the rim at any point then it’s not right. If not, I’d try unseating all the way round, re-lube the bead with soapy water and try again.

Wheel off and shake it. If you can hear it sloshing it’s fine. If it’s quiet, it’s not. If it rattles, you’ve got a booger. Then it’s time to dismount the tyre, remove thorns, clean it out and start again.

Sounds like a headset problem to me, a 44/40 lower cup should be able to take a 1.5 steerer no problem, therefore the start of the taper on the steerer should be irrelevant.
Can you measure the inside diameter of the cup?

https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fast-aggressive-rear-summer-tyre/

I remember this thread from last year and after seeing the pic of a minion ss on a 30mm rim showing the side knobs sticking up higher than the central tread, decided to go with the rock razor that was pictured alongside it which looked a nicer profile. I’ve been happy with my choice.

You will definitely die. Probably will be nothing to do with the ragley stem though. I had one but with aluminium bars and it didn’t kill me.

I’m sensing a ‘salsa put the spacer in the wrong place and now my bike is broken’ theme going on here?
My view, clearance is clearance. Chainsuck is nothing to do with clearance (the chain will hit the stay regardless) and all to do with a worn drivetrain.

68mm 1 drive, 2 non

Nope, other way round.

I run oval rings, as said above they’re a little bit nicer. I notice the difference more on techy climbs where they seem to put the power down smoother and in those oh sh1t moments where you’re in the wrong gear, it seems to prevent the cranks stalling when at top and bottom of the stroke. All the talk of being able to climb with a bigger ring, being x% faster etc are BS in my opinion and need to be taken with a pinch of salt.

@trap6, the pro 4 has been out over 3 years now so if your pro 2 evos are only 2.5 years old, there’s a good chance they’re the latest 40t version with the compatable freehub.

If the hub body is etched up as pro 2 evo 40t (the 40t is the important bit), you can change the freehub for an 11 speed one, product code HUB528, and it will work fine. Otherwise it’s either a bodge or stick to 10 speed.
https://www.hopetech.com/11-speed-compatibility/

Haven’t used the DHR on my B+ Solaris but have used the others. DHF offers better grip than the HR2 in most conditions other than as said above, when used in sticky mud the HR2 clears better. For a year round tyre I’d go for the DHF (in maxxterra compound).

-4.5 prescription here, and another +1 for contact lenses and decent mudguards.

btw you’re not davewalsh who lives in Manchester and plays drums are you??

Doesn’t sound like me, I’m from Wigan and play guitar (badly).

I have hope e4s on one bike with standard hoses and braided on the other. The only time I can tell the difference is when I look at them.

Another +1 for the moon nebula. Mine is about 4 years old and still works as well as the day it was bought. The thing that impressed me was how well engineered it feels, and also comes with all the mounts you may need, including my preferred under the saddle mount.

I stash a quick link under the top cap of the headset on each of my bikes. Saves ever being caught out with the wrong one in my backpack.

To answer your question, no. The extra distance on a boost hub is between the flanges and the disc position is 5mm further outboard.
The only way you may get it to work is to take all 10mm off the non disk side but this will probably mean the spokes foul the fork leg. You would also have to re-dish the wheel to suit. Try it first by taking the non disk spacer out and see if it will fit.

I have a Mk2 with a hope 2H headset so can confirm it fits.
Cane Creek 40 series is a mid-price option, available from CRC, you need the EC44-40 bottom cup and ZS44-28.6 top.
Alternatively, here’s a cheaper FSA option from on-one:
https://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/HSFOITA/fsa-orbit-ita-headset

Thanks Dave. Which Maxxis tyre do you run on the front and do you use a mudguard?

Either a DHF or a Rekon depending on conditions. There’s just about enough room for a muckynuts front guard in there too.

Well I have a non-boost 29er pike and run 2.8 maxxis tyres on 35mm rims. They fit but I wouldn’t want them any bigger, and I think schwalbe’s come up a bit bigger than maxxis.

What you need is a decent seller who will clean the frame up beforehand and admit it’s cracked and give you an immediate refund (whilst cursing Banshee bikes under his breath).
Anyway about the SolarisMAX, what colour and how much?

I’ve used a few tapes and these days, stick to stans or industry nine torch tape. Whatever you buy, make sure it’s a few mm wider than the rim so it goes across the rim bed and a midges widge up the sides. Valves are much of a muchness, buy the cheapest universal ones you can get.

I ride every Wednesday with a group from Appley Bridge, we meet outside the shop on the corner of Miles Lane and Mill Lane at 18:30. Usually do about 20 miles then finish off with a pint somewhere, quite often at The Foresters or the Hoot in Standish. If you fancy it, just turn up and introduce yourself.

I like the 2.8 Rekon on the back of my Solaris. Definitely tougher than the Rocket Ron it replaced.

Tools are the same. You actually need less for the pro 4 as the freehub bearings are the same both sides.
Yes the ratchets are different. Pro 2 and early evo’s are 28t, later evo’s are 40t, pro 4 is 44t. Springs and pawls are the same though.

I love my Solaris and a mate has just brought his new solarisMAX frame round for me to have a look at. That’s where my money would be going.

Assuming my google-fu hasn’t let me down, I had a warranty claim with a different model of wheels from the same manufacturer and retailer. This was approx 18 months after purchase. First they asked for pics, then they asked me to return the wheels (which was pretty straight forward as I had kept the boxes and used their return service). A couple of weeks later I was given gift vouchers equal to the original purchase price.

I’ve been to Florida a few times and have a friend in the bike trade. Whenever I’ve been over I’ve found that US made components are a bit cheaper but full bikes are more expensive. I’d be looking at buying a UK bike and a bike bag to ship it in.

Can’t speak for 11-46 but on my bike I run 11-42 with a sunrace cassette, zee mech and radr cage, also my daughter runs the deore M6000 mech and cassette. Both shift perfectly.
Other than the M6000, I’ve never managed to get a standard 10 speed shimano mech working happily with a 42t cassette so I’d recommend going down this route as radr cages appear to be like hens teeth at the moment.

The spec says it’s an integrated headset, therefore you’re out of luck as the bearings fit directly in the frame.

From the spec, it looks like it has a 44mm headtube. Therefore you need a ‘2’ upper and ‘H’ lower, assuming your fork is tapered.

So you’re throwing the teddies out of the pram because they left the bike in a hallway for a few days while you were away. Sounds like a classic case of buyers remorse to me. Did you really want it in the first place?