Oneup V2.1 dropper has the drop you want and is pretty quick to detatch the cable from.

I used sintered pads on my daughter’s bike with resin only rotors. She isn’t dead.
As above, cheaper rotors are probably lower grade steel and will probably wear a bit quicker.

As above, air in the lowers. Also when you compress a deflated fork you actually create a vacuum in the negative air side, which will also make them bounce back. I’d put a zip tie down the seals and not worry about it any more.

Thanks, I was hoping to get away with the same tool for both, bit disappointing to see that shimano can’t design the same tool for 2 parts with the same diameter and number of splines 👿 but shouldn’t be surprised. Luckily it’s not my bike so I’ve asked him to buy himself the tools and I’ll use them to fit.

I always keep coming back to an SDG Bel-air (the original, not the 2.0) I’ve come to the conclusion that the curved nose is what makes it comfy for me. If I ride another bike with a flat saddle it makes the owd chap sting when I have a pee.

There shouldn’t be a problem – I wouldn’t grind anything off.
Have you taken the derailleur off? Sounds like the mech is out of position on the hanger.

I’ve seen this happen too and this was the cause. Make sure the tab on the mech is hard up against the tab on the frame before tightening the mech securing bolt.

Not received. Keep the fours but replace the at and dot.

If you can’t, email me on d4vew4lsh at gmail dot com

Was it from Merlin? If so I’ve got a set you can have for the price of a large letter.

Not sure if this will help but I had a problem with the tool fouling on the hub endcap as it tightened. Solution was to pop the endcap off before tightening!

What you’ve described doesn’t sound right, it should return straight to the top. It may be that the seat clamp is too tight or the air pressure is too low. Try slackening the clamp first and then topping up the air. If they fail then it’s faulty.

Bit more compression damping and remove a token if there are any fitted?

The part on top of the bearing is upside down and should be under the bearing.

Here’s another suggestion, do you really need the chain guide on a kids bike? Chain retention these days is pretty good with narrow wide rings and clutch mechs. Your cheapest option is to leave off the guide.

I’m 5’10 and have the latest soul in large. It’s the most agile bike I’ve ever had (previously had a mk2 solaris and 26″ soul). Not sure how well it would run on 26″ wheels though, I’m running 27.5″ on mine with 2.6 tyres.

The number after the t is the last digit of the year of manufacture. In your case 2013.

I had a rev about that time and it doesn’t look like it. I’ll go Lyric from around 2013.

Get a hope HS136 adapter for the fork to take the diameter out to 1.5″ and re-use the existing crown race.

Minion DHF.
SDG Bel-air saddle.

Sorry, I don’t get it. Explanation please ?

How old / what model are your XT cranks?

My two went straight from a Beinn 20 small to a Beinn 24 about that age, if the 20 is looking too small then he should fit the 24. I wouldn’t worry too much about the geometry, because Isla’s tend to run bigger wheels than thier competitors, the wheelbase and geometry is quite long anyway.

I have braided hoses on one bike and standard on the other. The only time I can tell the difference is when fitting them, because the braided are a bugger to shorten and won’t fit in a rockshox P-clip.

I use Thule wing bars with 598 carriers. Not sure they will be any cheaper than the VW bars but the quality is spot on.
roofbox.co.uk usually best prices and quick delivery.

My kids used to use Wellgo KC001’s and they both got along with them really well. Platforms are a nice size, pins aren’t too aggressive and they’re well sealed and have lasted years. Definite recommendation from me.

I have a transfer on one bike and a oneup v2.1 on the other. Transfer is a bit better but not worth the extra IMO.

As above, can usually be solved with a strip, clean and regrease. Alternatively, there’s an oil port on the bottom of the clutch housing, squirt some GT85 in there and see if that will bring it back to life.

Yes & yes.
I actually prefer it to XT, shifts just as nicely but doesn’t have that big daft gap between the 46t sprocket and the next one down.

It’s definitely possible, I remember back in the day, the 44mm headtube was marketed as being compatible with any steerer. Having said that, a quick google would suggest the top cups are no longer available. Nukeproof used to do a headset with the code 44EESS for the job. In SHIS speak, you need an EC44/38.1 top cup.

I’m currently running hope E4’s with SLX rotors, no problem.
As above, if using a 4 pot calliper, it can foul on non-hope PM-PM adaptors so stick with the hope ones.

I’ve had that happen to me. If memory serves me right, the broken end should have a hexagon that you can hammer an Allen key in to remove it. I replaced mine with a maxle stealth and put plenty of grease on it, it’s been fine since.

Superstar / Works / Absoluteblack ovals are all very good. I’ve used them all and can’t tell any difference. Haven’t particularly noticed a build up of mud on the shelf either, I think it’s because it is chamfered on all of the above.

Oh, forgot to say, the current cassette will have a small spacer behind it approx 1.5mm thick. You need to re-fit this when fitting the new cassette.

No problem. You’ll be pleased to know that the 12sp SRAM SX is a direct replacement for 10s shimano. No new freehub needed.

OP, you need to give us more information as 10, 11 and 12 speed SRAM can be either XD drive or shimano splined. Exactly what cassette do you have on there now? It it XD or splined? Which 12 speed cassette are you fitting?

Nukeproof Horizons are my favourite (size 11 wide).

Definitely medium cage needed, the long cage is for running 2×11 with a smaller cassette. Take care if fitting to a full suss with plenty of chain growth though, mine was fine static but chain was too short when compressed. Obviously fine on a hardtail.

As above, just use normal grease, the contacts will have enough pressure to make a circuit. Conductive grease will cause no end of problems with short circuits.

Cotic Flare?

I used to run DT XM521’s when I had a plus bike. Would definitely recommend.