Pro 2 Evo’s are a 17mm REAR axle. The fronts are 20mm and will fit any fork with the correct adaptor (15mm in your case).

Mismatched brands on both of my bikes, Chunky Monkey / Ardent on one and Minion DHF / Panaracer Razer on the other. I do line the Logo’s up though.

Not many bikes come with the same tyres front & back these days.

The caliper mounting surface on avid adaptors isn’t flat (the mount is 2 tubes which are different heights) and it relies on the CPS washers taking out the misalignment.

Assuming the forks are post mount and the 180 disk is on the front, you need a 180mm Front PM-PM adaptor. Any make other than Avid will do, superstar do them (type 7) for a fiver.
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=57&products_id=359

What kit, rims and tyres are you using?

The deeper the channel in the rim the harder they are to inflate (my XM719 is a pain in the ar*e). If there is a deep channel then pack it out using some foam draught excluder under the rimstrip.

Other than that, watch the videos on the Stans website and do what they say, and have a friend with a compressor on standby :twisted:

You need an E cup and a HS136 crown convertor.

I have the 2012 version of the headset you’ve linked, it’s ok for the money, just needed re-greasing after 9 months.
If you already have a star nut and top cap and can stretch the budget to 60, I’d recommend the Hope pick & mix 2H, with a 1.5 to 1 1/8 reducer. I have one on my Soul and it’s better sealed than the nukeproof.

I think 2-7 months is on the conservative side, typically I’d say it’s 6 to 12 months. The sealant does dry up, however as said above, it will just reduce your puncture resistance.

As a general rule, if you shake the tyre and can hear it sloshing it’s ok. As the sealant gets older it either dries up and goes quiet or forms a ball and starts to rattle. If these happen then it’s time to dismount the tyre, tip/wipe out the old sealant, remove the thorns :evil: and re-fill with new sealant.

Hope don’t do a mount for a 180mm rotor, if you use a ‘B’ then the outside 1.5mm of pad won’t contact the rotor.
Any R180 IS-PM mount will do the job. Personally I use a Superstar type 4, which can be had for £4.99

Mine too !

Me !
50 odd quid from TFTuned. Repair is easy if you have the bleed kit.

BTW, don’t be tempted to use it in the meantime by pushing something in through the hole left behind because if you scratch the bore then it’s over £100 for a new remote !

Merlin Malt 2 for £135 ?
http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/frame-forks/frames-mtb/merlin-rock-lobster-frames/merlin-malt-2-frame.html

From the size you’ve given, it sounds like you need an Integrated ‘Campy style’ tapered headset. CRC do one but it’s bloody expensive:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=62142

Edit: or this from Privee:
http://www.production-privee.com/PBSCProduct.asp?ItmID=9773676

Edit 2: Superstar:
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=481

You can use any combination other than the 180/185 PM to PM adaptor (this relies on the washers to fit correctly), just make sure that you ditch the washers that come with the Avid calipers and bolt the caliper directly to the mount.

Where does it say that stans no longer recommend schwalbe tyres?

It was on their website last summer, shortly after I’d bought a Nobby Nic and Racing Ralph :evil: , just had a look round and can’t find it anymore. Never had a problem on my flows, just the 719.

No worries, like I said, sorry to be the bearer of bad news but hopefully I’ve saved you forking out £50, not fixing the problem then having to spend another £120!

No, on the end of the shaft is a 4mm dia piston with the seal on the outside. There is approx 3mm of piston left between the point where it breaks and the seal.

I had a mate once who was describing driving in America. He said all roads are arranged in a grid and all the turns are right angle turns or left angle turns :D

I had exactly the same experiance with a RaRa, pain in the arse to get the bead seated, then the bead failed and filled the garage with spaff. Luckily for me, it was on a mates bike at the time and it was his garage, saving me the clean-up :)

Stans no longer recommend schwalbe tyres due to the high number of bead failures. I’d try again with a Maxxis tyre.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but from the look of your picture, it is leaking fluid at the button. This is caused by the broken end of the button scoring the bore in the housing, which then lets fluid past the seal. Looks like you’ll have to replace the entire remote (~£120) instead of just the button (~£50).

I’ve replaced the button on mine after breaking it, replacing the button is really straight forward, it’s just held in place with a spring clip from the inside of the housing.

If the seller has already refunded you, tell him to also pay the postage or refuse to return the forks. Taking pictures with the u-turn on to hide wear is simply not on. If you paid by any method that allows you to get your cash back i.e. paypal (not gift) then exercise that option to reclaim all your cost. If you’ve no comebacks i.e. paypal gift, bank transfer etc. then pay the postage costs and name and shame once you’ve been refunded.

The Soul was revised around 2009 and warranted for a 140mm fork at the same time, It would be worth sending an e-mail to cotic with the frame number to check. Also, you can’t zero stack a 2009 soul as it’s a standard 1 1/8″ headtube.

As you’ve already got the forks, there’s nothing lost in giving them a try. Personally I’d put the thor on your Mk3 (with zero stack if sufficient crown clearance) and the Reba on the 2009.

If you can hear it sloshing then it should be ok. If you can’t hear it then it needs topping up. Also, if you get a thorn through the tyre, the sealant forms clumps on the inside which break off and start to rattle, therefore if you hear a rattling then it’s time to remove the thorns and patch the tyre on the inside.

I’ve got 2 formula rotors, one is 1.9mm and the other is 2.02mm.

Are you reading the minimum thickness printed on the side?

All rotors are a standard 2mm thickness so you’ll be fine. Avid do have some compatability issues but that’s only if you try to use a 185 disk with a 180 mount or try and use floating or centrelock rotors with Juicy’s due to the pad removal tabs. I’ve run Formula brakes with Avid rotors in the past (and currently with shimano rotors on one bike) without problems.

Last weekend I picked up a Reverb for £145, this week the best price is £250. You snooze, you lose !

I demo’ed a Soul with F120’s and hated them, didn’t like the feel and found them too twangy. I went for 120 travel Rebas with 15mm bolt through and have been very pleased with them so far, much better than the Foxes IMO.

A 380 post will reduce to 280 or 255 depending on travel when dropped so will be fine, however If you’re running a 300mm post, I’d be more worried about how much seatpost you have out of the frame when your saddle is at pedalling height. A 125mm drop reverb measures 190mm from the bottom of the collar to the centre of the saddle rails. If you’ve got less than this then you need the 100mm drop. If you’ve got less than 165mm then a reverb will always return to a position too high for pedalling.

You’re out of luck, the Soul has a 44mm bore in the bottom of the headtube, looking at the CK website, they don’t produce cups for 44mm frames.
http://chrisking.com/specs/headsets_all

On my Mk3 Soul I’ve got a Hope pick & mix headset (1 upper, H lower) with the hope 1 1/8 to 1 1/2 adaptor. Does the job fine !

I’ve got a dual compound Chunky Monkey on the front of my Blue Pig and have tried the Smorgasbord on the front and rear of my Soul.
Both went up tubeless easily with a track pump after being left with a tube in overnight and sealed straight away with no leaks.
Both tyres are pretty tough as they have ‘Eckso’ protection on the sidewalls, the downside of which is that they’re quite heavy, my Smorgasboard is 820g (Enduro, folding), the Chunky Monkey coming in slightly lighter at 810g.
As a peaks tyre they should be fine, however I’d be wary of the Smorgasbord in mud, It’s good in all other conditions but slippy as hell when it’s muddy.

Firstly, are you sure it’s a Hope 183 disk? AFAIK, Hope only make 183’s, therefore you need a hope ‘H’ adaptor. If it’s an Avid 185 disk then you need the adaptor linked above by andyl, otherwise you can shim the hope ‘H’ or any non-avid 180 adaptor to fit, just make sure the bolts are long enough. Alternatively, buy a standard 180 rotor and a non-avid adaptor (Superstars are fine for a fiver).

The issue with Avid 180 & 185 PM-PM adaptors is that the faces of the adaptor are not flat and they rely on the CPS washers to account for the difference. You can use an Avid caliper & washers with any other manufacturer’s adaptor (as james said), however you can only use the Avid 180 & 185 PM-PM adaptors with Avid calipers & CPS washers.

Are you happy with your current tyres? All Maxxis non-ust tyres can be used with sealant, all you need is some stans sealant, 25mm Stans yellow tape and a pair of Stans tubeless valves.

Ragley Stubbing stem has a 30mm stack height and is available in 60mm.

Size wise they’ll be fine, however you might have to realign the caliper if there is a slight variation in the width and position of the disk mount on the hubs.

Avid mounts won’t work with XT calipers as the mount relies on the CPS washers to take out the misalignment between the caliper body and the bolts (if you look at an Avid mount, the front and back posts aren’t the same size).
I’ve got a 5 ride old shimano mount gathering dust if you want it for £4 posted, e-mail d4vew4lsh at gmail dot com if interested.

Because you’re using good quality stainless spokes and cheep black ones ?
My wheels have DT Swiss DB Comp black spokes and never had any issues.

Are you talking about a 26″ or 29″ frame?

As far as I’m aware, the RLT has an externally adjustable gate threshold (which lets the fork ‘blow off’ if left locked).
Not worth the extra money IMO.

Two, one for each screwdriver :)
Grip the hub in a vice, the mole grips support themselves !

Grip across the end cap with a pair of mole grips then carefully lever it off with 2 screwdrivers against the hub body and under the jaws of the molegrips. That’s how I shifted mine when it wouldn’t budge in the vice.