Pics ?

I saw the thread title and thought about the video they’ve just released saying how much better the 2014 27″ Nukeproof Mega is than the 26″ version, just as they’ve got the 26″ frames in stock !

Replied to :)

Found it, £2.60 and it’s yours. email d4vew4lsh at gmail dot com if interested.

If you mean 28.6, Yes you can, proper SRAM ones with all the cut-outs and tabs to fit the band. I had one in my Inbred. I’m pretty sure I’ve still got it in the garage somewhere, if I can find it you’re welcome to it for the price of a royal mail small parcel.

If your current headset is ok, you could just replace the lower cup with a hope pick & mix ‘H’ cup for about £28. Cheaper than a full headset!

From personal experience with XM719’s (same rim) I would recommend using stans standard rim strips rather than just tape as the tyres are a loose fit on the bead benches and you will struggle to get them inflated. If you want to have a go with just tape then you want some 21mm wide stuff as the rims are 19mm wide and you’ll lose a bit of width as it follows the profile of the rim.

They’ll work totally fine. All rotors work with all brakes. Simple.

Not strictly true, avoid using Avid Juicys with any rotor with an aluminium carrier (Hope floating, shimano XT etc.) as the rotors foul on the pad removal tabs.

popps, X2 brakes and C/L disks should be fine, however as stated above you may need to realign the caliper. Or, you could be lucky as in mikewsmith’s case. Only one way to find out…..

And the rims are ?

I’m running that exact combo on the rear of my Blue Pig. No problems other than the rim was a pain to tape up as 25mm rim tape isn’t wide enough.

I’m running that exact combo on the rear of my Blue Pig. No problems other than the rim was a pain to tape up as 25mm rim tape isn’t wide enough.

1. Schwalbe tyres. Expensive & Fragile.
2. Fizik Gobi. Horrendous arse pain.
3. Short stem, wide bars on an XC bike. Rode really well until the point where it would unpredictably and violently throw me OTB.
4. SPD’s. Much prefer the feeling on flats.
5. Double and bash. Not fit enough to pull a 36t ring and missed the 44t on road. Lasted 2 rides then went on the classifieds.

In my experience, the ‘Booger’ has always been caused by sealant clumping around a thorn then breaking off and sticking together. Time to remove the tyre, pull the thorn(s) out and re-fill with fresh sealant.

Shameless plug but I’ve got a pair of Tahoes in size 11/46 that you could have for £25 posted. e-mail d4vew4lsh at gmail dot com if interested.

Got my 1st car in 1994, so in 19 years I’ve had
‘D’ Mk4 Ford Escort 1.3 Pop (Rusted into oblivion) 1994-1995
‘E’ Mk4 Ford Escort 1.4 LX (caught fire on bonfire night) 1995-1999
‘N’ Vauxhall Cavalier 1.7 LS TD (died of old age) 1999 – 2008
‘L’ Ford Mondeo 1.8 TD (bought for £200 and used for Crumball Rally) 2007
‘Y’ Mercedes E320 CDI Avantgarde Estate (got rid because I couldn’t afford repair bills) 2008 – 2011
’02’ Audi A6 Avant 2.5 TDI Quattro Sport 2011 – Present

So discounting the Mondog project, 5 in 19 years.

Avid 180 & 185 PM adaptors are avid specific, the top surfaces of the 2 ‘pillars’ are not flat & rely on the CPS washers to take up the difference.
Also, the allowance for the CPS washers is taken into account on the caliper rather than the adaptor, so you can use any mount with avid calipers and CPS washers, and any avid mount other than the 180 & 185 PM-PM with any other caliper without the CPS washers.

44mm (Internal / zero stack) can be adapted, standard 34mm cannot. Inbred is standard 34mm.

25 sounds about right to me for someone your weight.

Superstar sell what looks like the same tape for £7.

I’ve got a Blue Pig and my rear tyre of choice is the 2.25 Ardent Exo. One of those on the back will save a fair amount of weight and roll much faster due to the shallower tread whilst still having a decent volume for absorbing bumps. Either keep the HR2 up front or swap for a Butcher Control as above.

I’ve got a Mk2 Blue Pig and absolutely love it, however I can’t help but look at the new range and think they’ve been designed by a Chav with a Burberry obsession. Hideous IMO.

On my Soul I’m running s 2.3 Butcher control on the front and a 2.25 Ardent on the back. For me it’s the perfect trade off between rolling resistance and grip, with a decent amount of volume there as well.

Warm the lockring end up with a hot air gun, then place on bench, push the spacer that sits between the outer bearing and the 2 inner bearings to one side and drift out with a screwdriver. Turn hub over and use the axle to drift out the ones on the opposite side.

Reverb

So in summary, you’ve had a spring failure, destroyed 2 by hitting stuff and sold one. Hardly a reason to call them fragile ?

I’ve had a nukeproof in the past and been very impressed. I’d buy one again.

Right. Older Mk1 inbreds are 100mm max, mk2 (2011 ish onwards) are 120mm.

Some 456’s are badged as Inbreds. The only way to tell for sure is to look at the top tube / seat tube / seat stay junction. On the 456 the seat stays meet the seat tube at the same place as the top tube. On a standard inbred, the seat stays meet the seat tube approx 3/4″ above the top tube.

Always remove the thorns if you can. The sealant forms clumps around the thorn which then break off and join with other clumps to form a ball, which give a rattling noise when you shake the tyre. If all the particles are in a ball then the sealant won’t work very well.

If you shake the tyre and you can hear it sloshing, there’s enough in.

Topeak Mini 18 here, has a very good chain tool and can be picked up for about £20.

I would not travel at 70mph with a bike lashed to the back of my car .

Me neither, can’t see any reason to go that slow with a decent towball mounted rack.
As for the bike, it’s knackered, get rid.

Bb shell on my inbred is 73mm

Are you sure? both of mine were 68 and the website still says 68.

As for the length, it depends entirely on the chainset, look it up in the manufacturers technical docs. I personally would run a 50mm chainline, there’s not much clearance between the chainset & chainstay so definitely wouldn’t run 47.5.

Not a cat in hell’s chance that a 650b wheel will fit in a 2011 Rev (I’ve got one on the front of my pig). There’s only just enough clearance for a 26″ wheel with a 2.4 tyre. If you could shoe horn a 650b wheel in there you’d have to use a tyre so skinny it would end up the same diameter as a big tyre on a 26″ wheel anyway, yet lose the cushioning a big tyre gives.

I had the same with a Hope Pro 2 Evo, the cracks started from the pawls and propagated the full length of the freehub all the way to the lockring.
I felt the hub not running freely about 5 miles into a 20 mile ride, however the cassette held the freehub together allowing me to complete the ride.
I’d get a replacement on order ASAP.

Horrible fragile Schwalbe tyres have since been replaced by a Chunky Monkey up front and an Ardent Exo on the back.

44mm = Integral = Internal = Zero Stack. They’re all the same (but not to be confused with Integrated). It’s a common standard, you need a Hope ‘2’ top cup.

Maxxis have some nice fast tyres, Ardent, Aspen & Monorail all spring to mind.

Pic ?

No helmet, no ride in our house.
A couple of weeks ago my 4 year old daughter gave a bloke a right bo!!ocking in the park for riding without a helmet :) I had a right good chuckle to myself after that !