Reeksy / Swanny, Are you running the Hunt wheels by any chance?
I had exactly the same feeling when I first built up my Soul, it just didn’t feel as fast as it should. Eventually traced the drag back to the rear hub, which is very well sealed but also very draggy. Despite changing bearings and greasing the seals it never felt much better, until I swapped the wheel for a Hope / DT481 build and it felt like someone had taken the brakes off!

I can’t see adapter on adapter working to be honest, as the lock ring sits outside of the disc bolt holes. Adding a 5mm spacer would mean you would have hardly any threads of the lock ring engaged.
As above, I’d go with both spacers on non-disc side and a re-dish.

I have Hope E4’s with standard hoses on one bike and braided on the other. The only time I can tell a difference is when I look at them. Also the braided ones being a bit thicker can make them a pain to fit in some clips/cable guides.

Store near me sells those Vaudes, how do they size.

I’d say they’re half a size smaller than average. I’m usually an 11. I wear a Vaude 11 and it’s snug but the 12 was too big.

Vaude moab with polaris waterproof socks. I waded through a river a few months ago with the above and still had dry feet.

Yes, if you can see the size of the inner bearing, pro4 uses a 17287 where’s the pro2 evo uses a 6803.
Also if you look down the hole for the axle, the pro4 just has a bearing at each end and single spacer, whereas the pro2 has 2 spacers and an intermediate bearing.

The pro 4 is a larger diameter at the pawl end. If it looks like the seal can slip off either side of the freehub it’s a pro 2, if it will only go one way (over the splines) it’s a pro 4.

If it’s more reach you’re after, Nukeproof Horizon V2 have a 9 degree sweep but the point where they’re swept from is further out from the centre than a standard bar, making them feel longer.

Well from the out of focus pic above I thought it may have been one of thier wierd jump bikes (Gimp?) But seeing the proper pics on ebay with the inbred stickers, makes me think it isn’t genuine.
Personally I wouldn’t touch it with a barge pole.

No new lockdown build for me (although a mate is waiting on a new SolarisMAX which will be passing through my garage) so took the opportunity to refresh the bearings in my Mk2 Rocket, which obviously took precedence over weeding the path or painting the fence. Have also included a pic of my Soul that I’ve not posted here yet even though it’s a year old.

32 will be fine, as will 31.8

A for the hardtail as I ride it the most and CBA cleaning out the camelback on a regular basis.
C for the full suss.

Yes that’s right, the steerer is 28.6 for most of it’s length but flares out to 30.0 just above the crown. Otherwise you’d have to press the crown race along the full steerer.

@twrch, I have a 125 drop 31.6 B series post (external routing) with a couple of mm drop. Email d4vew4lsh at gmail dot com if you want to make a bid for it!
Cheers, Dave.

Haven’t gone back, but I run 1×10 on the hardtail, have run 1×11 XT and now 1×12 GX on the full suss. Based on the shifting performance, I have no plans to downgrade the hardtail.
Disclaimer, Haven’t tried 1×12 XT myself but fitted it to a mates bike and it felt nice!

Yes

That looks like the older version, 10 speed mech to me, the clutch housing is a different shape on 11 speed and it has the original dynasis logo not the dynasis 11. In which case it is only designed for 36t hence your b screw at max.

Shouldn’t need anything like a goat link, I’ve used that mech in standard configuration on a mates bike with sunrace 50t cassette. You got a pic?

Have you got the tab on the mech in front of the tab on the hanger?

I-spec is a disgrace, really – they’ve gone through I-Spec A, B, 2, II and now EV in about ten years

Same with their bottom brackets. 44mm 16 notch has been standard for donkeys years, but now XT is 41mm and XTR 39mm. The XT comes with an adapter though, which takes it up to 46mm, meaning you need the SRAM DUB tool 🤦‍♂️

‘Bar mount’, ‘22.2 clamp’, ‘band-on’ or any combination of the 3.
The ones that look like they have half a bar mount are actually Ispec II and cannot be mounted individually.

I really like the Rekon as a rear tyre, rolls well and can usually find some grip in most conditions. Not too keen on them on the front though, prefer to stick to a DHF. I’ve ridden them in 2.4, 2.6 and 2.8, I’d say fit the biggest you can get in.

I did my wrist a few years ago and used a 661 brace for a few months whilst it healed. As above, you can feel it when you put it on but soon forget about it when riding.

If you’ve found a schrader valve in the bottom of the lower leg then you’ve almost certainly got an older dual air fork not a 2019 solo air (unless someone has retrofitted a dual air spring in a 2019 fork). This will definitely feel wooden if there’s nothing in the negative air spring. Try inflating to the same pressure as the upper and see how it feels then.

I have a 2015 non-boost pike and there’s enough room for a 2.6 maxxis + mudguard. You can just about shoehorn a 2.8 in there but there’s very little clearance.

Didn’t do anything specific, other than set them up ghetto style with a split 20″ tube, due to them being on an alex rim that had a very deep centre channel that I wasn’t confident in taping. I just put some stans sealant in, gave them a shake and rode them.

If you’re happy with Rons then stick with them. Also, I’ve set up a few Schwalbe Performance tyres tubeless with no issues even though they aren’t officially tubeless ready.

Seems every new Hope hub needs a new set of tools and uses a different sized bearing

Really? I’ve had pro 2, pro 2 evo and now pro 4. The evo needed 1 more tool than the pro2 and the pro 4 needs one less than the evo.

I usually get mine from Simply Bearings.

For those using formula curas, have any of you tried the ispec B shifter mount and if so, how well does it work?

Well if you told us what frame and cranks you have we may be able to advise better!
You should be ok with double crank, the big ring position on a double is very similar to a boost crank anyway. Couple of things to watch out for though, if it’s a shimano crank then you can’t run a 32t ring unless the ring has standoffs and threaded holes machined into it as with a standard ring, the chain will foul on the tips of the spider. Also a ring with the standoffs built in will move the ring back to the non-boost position and may foul the frame.

Another +1 for the ZTTO. My daughter has one and at £15 quid for a lever that runs on a cartridge bearing you can’t go wrong.

AFAIK, for through axles you need the different lockring that is tightened using a BB tool. There isn’t enough room to get a cassette tool between the lockring and axle.

On my Soul at the moment I’m running a DHF front and Conti Cross-King rear. I find this a nice fast combo without it being too flimsy. Prior to this I had an Ardent Race on the back and although the Conti is heavier, it definitely rolls faster.

I’ve had both, the fox is nicer to use but isn’t worth twice the price. Seeing as you already have it, I would keep it. Note: I’ve also had the issue with clamping a slammed Oneup, adding 10mm of shims sorted it (at the loss of 10mm drop obvs).

Freerider Pro are considerably narrower than standard freerider.

Why not swap for the light action lever, it’s 10mm longer !

There are 2 schools of thought when it comes to tape width, you can either go a bit wider than the internal width of your rim so the tape covers the entire width of the rim bed (in your case 29mm rim = approx 32mm tape) or you can go much narrower so the edge of the tape is well away from the tyre bead. Personally I’m in the former camp and have had no problems in years, therefore the kits are no good and you’d have to buy the sealant, tape and valves separately, but I’ve no doubt someone else will come along from the other camp shortly and say buy the narrower kit. Also, it’s worth buying a valve core remover so you can take it out and attach the pump directly to the stem to get maximum airflow to seat the beads.
As for the thorn holes in the tyres, the sealant will soon sort them out. No need to buy new unless they’re badly split.

Why not tubeless?

Another +1 for the Cane Creek DB air. I’m heavier than you yet run a lower pressure on my Rocket. Also gives you plenty of tuning options to get the bike riding how you want it. Don’t be concerned about the amount of adjustments, the manual or app explains in simple terms what each one does and how to set it up.