5’10” / 178cm. My large soul has 480 reaches with a 35mm stem. Feels pretty good. My mate has the SolarisMAX also in large, that has 485 reaches but feels a bit shorter, maybe it’s something to do with it being taller or a slightly steeper seat tube.

I ran the problem solvers adapter on the front of my soul for about 12 months with a 203 rotor, no problem at all. Have also tried to use the hope rear boost kit (3mm spacer each side) and couldn’t get the chain to run right as it absolutely maxed out the travel on the rear mech (11s XT). Sine swapped to the wolf tooth one and it’s been fine.
Cheeky plug, the front adapter is for sale in the classifieds.

Out of curiosity, what’s wrong with the oneup? I’ve been using thier 180 post spaced down to 170 for a few years now without issues. Cheap to service too !

I’m doing it with my 12yo daughter, it’s our first enduro for both of us. Hoping it’s more of a chilled family vibe than an EWS warm-up!

There’s definitely room there, just give it a try. Backing off your B screw will give you a bit more play. While you’re at it, the chain is on the wrong side of the tab between the jockey wheels, you might want to sort that too.

Dc1988 has it. Where the mech bolts to the frame there’s a tab on the mech and one on the hanger. The tab on the mech should be behind the one on the frame not in front of it. Sort that out first then when the mech is in the second biggest cog, alter the B screw so there is a chain thickness’ gap between the teeth on the jockey and the biggest cog.

Yes it can be done. In the days before boost the front hub standards were 100×15 or 110×20 and it is just an end cap swap between the two.

From looking at the diagram above, I’d suggest checking the circlip is present and fitted properly in it’s groove.

I’ve run shimano 12s XT mech and shifter with XT and SRAM Eagle GX chains and I can’t tell any difference. In current climate, run what you can buy!

Hope ‘H’ mount will also do the job, that’s what I have on my 2021 Pikes.

I’ve used a problem solver front kit to fit a non-boost hope pro 4 into a boost pike. It fitted well, no issues, and didn’t stand out in use. I can imagine it being a bit of a faff if you remove the wheel regularly as the spacers just sit loosely in the drop outs and don’t fit in the wheel like the proper hope kit does, but it it’s a fit and forget solution you’re after, they work very well.

/shameless plug/ You can buy mine for £15 quid if you like, drop me a PM if interested. /end shameless plug/

I did my Rocket with the proper kit and my soul with tape.
Never regretted doing the Rocket, however I do regret not doing the soul properly.

That’s exactly what I did with my Daughter. Small Ritchey timberwolf frame, 165 cranks, 35mm stem, slammed seatpost and 26″ wheels. She’s now on 60mm stem, 27.5 wheels and a 120 dropper.

@sl2000 frame will be going up for sale early May, drop me a PM if interested.

I used to have them on my Solaris when running 650B+. They held up well, didn’t ding them at all. Hopefully the chap who bought it will turn up on this thread and give an update as I sold it through the classifieds.

Depends on the crank.

I use Stans sealant and every so often I’ll take the tyre off and give it a shake. If it sloshes it’s fine. If it doesn’t it needs topping up. If it rattles you have a ‘Stanimal’ (ball of solidified sealant), In that case it’s time to pop the bead off, remove the stanimal along with any thorns etc. and re-fill with fresh sealant.

Re: the dust seal, it should be easy enough to push it back in with a tyre lever or similar blunt object. Just make sure you don’t push it too far as most forks these days have flangeless seals (the top of the seal should be level with the top of the fork).

B 100%
Built up an A bike during lockdown 1 but soon realised it was boring and the roads were full of idiots in cars so sold the parts and went back to B.
Don’t really see the point of C because there’s not many gravel roads where I live.

If you’re looking for a 15″ Timberwolf and wouldn’t mind second hand drop me a PM. No2 Daughter has just about grown out of hers.

I’ve used the 2.6 and it was bang on (30mm internal rim). Sidewalls were more substantial than the 26″ 2.4 I had previously too.

Mumkiemagic, it sounds to me like you’ve fitted the clamp the wrong way round. The hinge should be closest to you and the securing screw furthest away.

Looking at pics of the bike online, it looks like both the frame and fork are 160PM so it should swap over, however it may be a problem getting an Allen key into the rear triangle to tighten the bolts. I’d try it first before spending money on the 203 rotor and adapter for the front.

Looking at the 30t round from superstar and presumably need these Chainring bolts

Nope, just re-use the ones you take out (without the nuts obvs).

I haven’t looked but I’d assumed oval rings would work with those “asymmetric” Shimano cranks (like the M8000)?

Yes, I use them and they work fine, with the added benefit of idiot-proof installation as you can’t get them 90 degrees out.

32t should be fine.
You can get 30t round or 32t oval, they have stand-offs and threaded holes built in to keep the chain away from the arms and are usually a few quid more. IIRC Absolute black did a 30t oval at one point but it looked a bit of a faff with smaller bolts and eccentric nuts and inserts on the smaller pair of bolts.

I’ve used superstar, works components and black by absolute black over the years. Never really had a problem with dropping chains and life has been fine. Can’t see any reason to pay more TBH.

I used to have a Ragley Blue Pig with Revelation RLT Ti forks with the blackbox damper. They were awesome 👌

If you have a look on the underside of the clutch housing there should be a lubrication port. Pop the cap off and give it a good squirt of GT85 / TF2 spray and see if that makes it any better.

Me too 👍

There are no threads in the spider, however the oval ring should be in the middle position and not the outer. Move it over, put the little triangle behind the crank arm and bolt it up from the outside.

Some frames use oddball thread sizes. My daughter needed a new one for her Ritchey and the only places that did that particular thread form were Burgtec and Roberts. If it’s a common size then no need to pay more imo.

Measure the inside diameter of the bearings. Pro 2 are 15mm, evo are 17mm.

XT 10 speed shifter.
ZEE mech with one up radr cage, clutch salvaged off an XT with hope jockeys.
Sunrace 11-42 cassette.
KMC chain.
Superstar chainring.
XTR cable.

Shifts Perfectly :)

Vaude Moab boots with polaris waterproof socks. Have waded through a river with them and still had dry feet.

Every now and again I go to the Triton website

Good luck with them, only shop I’ve ever used with zero communication skills and had to do a credit card chargeback……….

Argee, I’m exactly the opposite in that the only carbon on my bikes are the bars. My reasoning is that carbon is very strong in the direction it is designed to be strong in but weak in the direction it isn’t. The chance of bars picking up an impact like this (rock strikes etc.) is much lower for bars than frame or rims due to thier position high up and at the front of the bike.

Back to your question, handlebars have to have 9° of backsweep. Anything else just feels wrong.

I have a Topeak mini 18+. It’s donkeys years old now but it just works. Haven’t had a problem with the chain tool on it either.

WTB Vigilante?
Out of curiosity, what do you have against Maxxis?

I went the other way on my old solaris. The Ron is a decent rear tyre if you’re light on tyres but I found them too fragile. It is slightly faster rolling and slightly bigger in volume than the rekon at the expense of durability. You need to decide what is most important to you.
One thing I found is that a maxxterra rekon is notably draggier than the dual compound version so that may be worth swapping if yours is the maxxterra.
2.8 Icon is also worth a look, useless in mud though.

On my helm the LSC dial moves with the HSC, as does my 2014 pike and my daughter’s 2008 Reba. I’d suggest this is normal.