I’d agree with Pedlad.

The course is due to get, according to Accuweather, 1.5 inches of rain this week and 1.1 inches over the weekend.

Next week is dry until Sat/Sun where it’s showers.
It’ll take more than 3 dry days to get a decent course.

Last year I did the first lap on Medussa 1.8’s and in the woods they were great but not for the rest of the course and the next rider in our team rode Ralphs and wasn’t really slowed down.

You need both mud and dry tyres and work it out when you’re there. Not taking both is a big mistake.

Also worth noting that the decent/pro riders have little problems with the mud it seems to me so the answer is to keep your speed and momentum up and shed the mud. Easy !

D

I also use an AquaPac – have had mine for 3 years or so and always put my phone in it when riding.

The phone works through the clear side and it’s all rather good.

I’d suggest you just wing it with the changeovers.

One of the funniest things for me is when someone comes flying into the handover area shouting for their mate, who isn’t there and said person get more and more frustrated, louder and louder, angrier and angrier.
Mate usually strolls up at some point not realising.

You might not do as well but you will ensure a lot more people smile.

On a more constructive note:
We did try walkie talkies one year which were OK.
We now do what Pawsy suggests – We estimate about an hour for the first lap and get to handover after 55 mins. We then get a feel for how fast we are each lapping and adjust accordingly – always on the side of getting there early. You only really lose a minute max in handover if that (quick few words then new rider heads off to get their bike)

Some people have boards that you write on the handover time, which is useful if you remember to take note of it. When you’re lapping in 1hr 10 mins and it’s now 2.35 am and the last chap went out 25 mins ago – it’s not easy to work out what time you need to leave to get to handover in time.

It’s time to go.

Reasons?

The fact that you’re posting and asking the question
You’ve told people you might be off
Because it’s a bit scary – you think you’ve been lucky
You think they are clueless.
You told a director he’s inferior

You’ve already decided really – you just need to accept it and get on with it
Don’t look back in 2 years and wish you’d done it, if you move you gave it a go and learnt some lessons. If you stay you will wish you’d moved.

For me the one thing that would make the difference is the share ownership. Make sure you understand the % of the company that it gives you. It can be a real motivator when times get hard.

Good luck in the new job :-)

I was going to suggest…

Garmin Forerunner 305 with a couple of QR bike mounts.
Kits from CRC here

Had mine for years now and if broke I’d replace it with the same.

I bought mine for £70 ish about 3 years ago as the newer 405 was released However a quick search on new ones show very few around and those that are are way too expensive. I’d look for a second hand one as they seem very reliable.

I got mine from Dogcamsport[/url].

Used a voucher to get a small discount. Great service and I had a good chat with them on the phone to check stock and delivery times. Which were spot on.

What is this getting rid of bikes/kit ?

I haven’t bought that many bikes (5) but have never got rid of anything that didn’t break or wear out.

I’m not sure I could get rid of any, they aren’t worth much, I have the space, just, and I don’t need the money

A friend of ours has wanted to get it done for ages and a year ago she did.
Her sight is better but not perfect and she still has to wear glasses for reading. She was expecting great things and is not particularly happy. When asked if it was worth it she said probably not.

Lots of people say it’s great but until I can get a 100% guarantee that it won’t bugger my eyesight, I’m happy with soft lenses.

I bought a Atera STRADA to take 4 bikes to the south of France last summer and it’s very good.
Well made, very easy to fit on the towbar, very easy to add bikes and rack and bikes all lock together.
It also swings away from the car with the bikes on so you can access the boot.

It’s not cheap but worth it for me in transporting several thousand pounds worth of bikes (unless the wife reads this – I meant hundreds)

I managed to rip a tread block off a non UST Nic the other day causing a total blow out. Never done that on any tire before.

One of the downsides of having such immense power ?

The Acton Scott working farm isn’t far away (The one from Victorian Farm on TV)

We had a really nice day there a few weeks ago, very friendly staff, regular things to do and not too busy. We’d go again and it was reasonably priced as well.

We replaced our old system boiler nearly 2 years ago.
After a lot of research I went for a large Vaillant combi and took out all the tanks etc.

We could have got away with a smaller one but have appreciated the larger capacity, although it’s highlighted that some of the pipes could do with being larger diameter as we get a drop in pressure in the smaller ones upstairs if a downstrairs tap is used. We’ll address this when we re-vamp the bathrooms.

We had a problem after a month where a pump started making a noise, but it was replaced FOC by Vaillant within 2 days of registering a warranty call. Since then it’s worked flawlessly and is rather quiet.

Wasn’t the cheapest option but the chaps who installed it commented on it being a very good boiler.

Around ’93 while at Uni.

I did ride a road bike but hit the side of a car at a rather high speed after it turned across me. Bike written off and I decided the crap state of the roads warranted a mountain bike.

Bought a Giant Escaper, joined the MTB club, started racing and have been hooked ever since.

Upgraded with fluro yellow Girvin Flexstem and fluro pink Onza bar ends.

It’s still in the garage and is now the pub bike.

I’m lighter than you (by 9 or 10 kg) but also shy away from jumps etc

Crests on my Ti hardtail and have been blimmin fantastic

You’re not on your own.

I’ve been having the same thoughts for quite a while.
I find that I’m at the bottom of the cassette on the smaller ring and the top on the big ring.

I’ve got used to changing 3 gears for a chain ring change and I’m trying to ride the bigger ring more but it doesn’t feel right.
Compared to a mountain bike, road gears have far less difference between them – My reading of this was so you can find just the right gear but the massive difference in chain rings seems to be counter to this.

My current thinking is that I need to man up and ride in the big ring more.

Evolution in action.

The dog did the Hare world a favour by weeding out the offspring of the Hares that gave birth in an area where people walk their dogs.

Hares as a species will be stronger because of this, therefore you should have thanked said woman if you think this is good/chastised her if not.

On your own you’ll be faster as there’s less waiting.

Some people will say 2.5 hrs but I think if you allow 3.5 hrs it would be more realistic if you consider yourself to be average speed (mind you what is average…)

When we go with a largish group it can take 4-5 with waiting, chatting and a stop to eat a bit etc.

D

My current Sidi dominators must be about 10 or so years old. I’ve replaced the tread blocks twice and they are showing no sign of needing replacing.
They are my second pair – the first lasted 8 or 9 years I think.
I tend to wear them only about half the year when it’s on the warm side.

They are very well made, with most of the bits that can break/wear being replaceable.

IMO the cheapest cycling shoes, indeed shoes, I’ve ever owned.

I ride a 1250 Bandit with Bridgestones (can’t remember the models but the ones with a harder central compound and stickier on the outsides)

I get through about 2 rears per front – change the rears every 5-7k depending on summer/winter and front at about 12k.
I don’t ride them hard by any standards unless I’m on really nice dry roads and in a very good mood.

I tend to wear the front evenly and the rears get squared a bit

I shall be there in mens pairs.

Hoping for a windy and sunny week to dry the course out a bit.

If all the iDevices are linked to the same iTunes acct then it all just works.

As others have said you can set up playlists to sync different devices with different content.
When each device is connected you can set up the sync settings for each one – adding stuff to a playlist and syncing only that one list means that only the songs on that playlist are copied over.

I also signed up for iTunes Match so I can get any of the content without having to have it all with me.

On a similar note having an Apple TV and Home sharing/Match is brilliant. Now store all our DVDs on a NAS, add them to iTunes and watch via Apple TV – very slick.

If you want iDevices attached to different iTunes accts then you have a couple of options. (I tried these and they aren’t ideal)

1. All music on shared drive, have iTunes on different machines or accounts – a real pain on accounts as only 1 iTunes can run on a machine. Works OK on different machines.

2. Log iTunes into each acct every time you attach a device – this is a pain though with the auto syncing over WiFi now as one device won’t work if more than one are attached.

I don’t thnk Apple stuff isn’t that good at separating users sharing kit – iPads are single user and all devices work best when linked to one acct. If you accept this then it’s brilliant.

I have the Atera Strada – bought it from roofbox as well.

It is expensive but it’s very well made, very easy to fit and very secure. The rack itself when on feels very solid as do the bikes when attached – both can be locked.

I use additional straps for piece of mind when I have 4 bikes on but you don’t need them.

Took 4 bikes to the S of France last summer with no problems – very handy to be able to swing it away from the car to get in the boot.
I figured my bikes are worth rather a lot so it’s worth getting a very good rack and this is.

In case you missed the subtlety – I’m a big fan and highly recommend.

One thing the sales stuff doesn’t mention is that the rack beeps with the indicators – can be irritating but also it’s a reminder when you’ve forgotten to attach the electrics.

I was going to reply last night but decided to give such a serious subject proper thought.

1. My current Yeti ASR-AL (but upgrade the SLX kit to XTR
2. My current Van Nic Tuareg Ti Hardtail
3. A custom steel roadbike with Di2
4. A winter training bike – Steel frame Rohloff hub

I’ll be halfway there later this year hopefully when I upgrade the Yeti.
Threads like this are dangerous

I’ve got a Nomad but bought before it was as expensive as it is now.

Had a problem with the charger and after an email a new one was sent next day. Great quality and a tank will wash the bike 4 times. Battery lasts for 3 tanks.

Expensive but very good quality and does a fine job.
I thought I bought mine for £150 ish but it’s £189 now and I might think twice before getting one.

I received the following email yesterday – from a guy who got up at 05.15 to send it.

This is the whole email in response to me very nicely pointing out he was being a bit of a knob. I believe it’s in English but it’s not something I understand – maybe it’s scouse :-)

Absolutely, it remains on my radar, and make the assumption and add a risk, prior to be advised otherwise. This is just one facet of the overall picture, and we need to gain traction in order to obtain agreement on a baseline architecture within the TSA.

From your last post the boss seems is being a bit cheeky – or maybe he didn’t get or understand the info

I’d just reply back saying you can’t come in as the surgeon said you can’t work for X amount of time – I’d add it that it’s a bit of a pain to imply you’d be happy to come back but can’t.

Keep it all friendly and don’t worry about it. As long as you keep them updated and don’t read anything into text messages (as you may well be wrong) all will be well.

I commute (not that far though) on a 1250 Bandit.

Mine is unfaired and get about 60mpg riding in an enthusiastic way. Fairing and riding at more legal speeds.will be a lot more economical.

Insurance is £98 TPFT.
I change rear tyres every 8k front every 12k
Service once a year is about £150 with a local place.
They are cheap to buy new and cheaper still second hand.
I’ve got a scottoiler and chains seem to last forever

Now the weather is getting nicer it’s more fun and I take the train when it’s icy.

Also bear in mind that you will need decent gear – Buying cheap is false economy if you’re doing lots of miles. This gets quite expensive – I expect to spend £300 to £400 on each of helmet, jacket, trousers and boots plus gloves, balaclava, buffs etc.
A thin quilted gillet is very useful when it get chilly.
You will probably want some sort of Bluetooth headset as well – and a decent one.

If you don’t own a lot of this you need to factor it in.
I prefer it to driving, traffic is easier, on a nbice day it’s much more fun and you soon get used to the long miles.

D

4 of us went over a few weeks ago for the first time.

I don’t do jumps but enjoyed it – it is what it is, a man made trail that can handle a lot of people riding it and has a lot of jumps, tabletops, berms etc.

I’d be thrilled to have it on my doorstep but I prefer a more natural riding experience.

I’d go again but then I might include riding Penmachno just down the road as well.

I bought 2 Outwell airbeds last year – one single, one double.
Got the electric pump as well and am impressed by it all.

Pump plugs into car power socket and works to inflate and deflate very quickly. Beds are quite tall and comfortable by air bed standards. Well made, decent materials as well.

Not the cheapest but the best I’ve ever used.

D

Ralph’s are the perfect tyre for all conditions.

I’ve ridden them on a Yeti ASR and Ti hardtail all winter through snow, shine and some bad Warwickshire mud and been fine.
Descents can be interesting, Mud requires momentum and power, but it would have been the same on any tyre.

onewheelgood has ridden Nic’s on the same rides and he equally had no problems.

From this scientific experiment we can conclude that if you are a riding God then it doesn’t matter so buy the cheapest.

I bought a Tuareg frame last year and built it into a 23lb machine.

What do I think of it?

I smile thinking about riding it.
I smile when riding it
I smile thinking about having ridden it.

In summary it makes me happy.

I also have a Atera STRADA 3.

Took 4 bikes to the south of France – used additional straps for extra security and my piece of mind but it doesn’t need it.

The ability to have it swing away from the car means it’s easy to get into the boot.

I can’t see me using anything else in the future – feels quality and secure which is rather important for expensive bikes.

D

I bought some Oregan Scientific ones a while ago which were well under £100 and worked rather well.

The electronic gears discussion is the same as disc brakes.

People used to say they were

– too complex
– bound to be unreliable
– heavier
– no need for them as V brakes work well
– too expensive

Yet they are now usually easily affordable, fit and forget and on most bikes – all mid to high end bikes.

Electronic shifting is bound to go the same way – isn’t it ?

This year will be hard to work out as there is an on-line entry where it used to be in person or via snail mail.

It usually fills up quite quickly – leave it more than a week and it might be full as it’ll be easier to enter (filling in forms and posting is harder than online)

You still have a week to get friends agreement, details etc and you can change details when you get there. The problem we have had is people dropping out near to the time either because they broke themselves or had some sort of family ‘issue’ (granny’s birthday, cheap holiday and weddings have all been used as excuses) but it’s not difficult to find replacements from here.

Second photo is a lot better.

A slightly lower angle for the photo would show it off better.
Saddle in correct, full height position.
Pedals should be level or the one near the camera at 10 oclock.
Some gravel is slightly blocking the drain cover.

On a less serious not I think it looks rather good – liking the red accents.

Seat dropper cable needs shortening though.

saddle is too low – or the frame is too big.

Some of the bricks look slightly uneven.

Glad to be of help :-)

People always double the budget – it’s the second law of bike buying.
:-)

A Kent Eriksen is $3200 – so £2kish (according to a quick google) only £500 more.

and the OP did say it was a bike for life.

Ah if it’s £1500 on the frame then it’s not an easy choice as there are quite a few options.

Maybe look for a custom build ? Kent Eriksen maybe?
Or a nicher brand – Seven, Moots, Enigma etc

They might be a bit more than the budget though but then there’s always better options over your budget.

You seem to know what you want so look at all the brands over a period of time. Don’t rush it. Brings back all those exciting emotions I had when choosing mine.

Well last year I bought a Van Nic Ti Tuareg.
Frame has a lifetime warranty. Built it up to 23lbs and it’s great to ride.

You won’t get a decent Ti build for £1500. Many frames cost this on their own. I got a 2010 discounted one for £750 from on-one after months of looking around. Build ended up being around £3k I guess – never added it all up so I have genuine deniability when asked :-)

My advice if you are after a bike for life is to really take your time – buy the frame and do a build – think about every component carefully and do your research. I did all this and the bike is so much better for it.

Thread here

Keep us posted…