as far as i am aware its an extended hire period with zero rental cost, at the end of that time you just transfer ownership to yourself.

Bez hit the nail on the head, lost count of the number of times i’ve done that, to the point i am scared of pumping road tyres up now…

Which Float shock is it for as they are forever changing the shape. i have a load for a Float CTD from 2014, but they don’t fit the float X or the newer normal floats i believe.

I wear RX inserts in some Rudy Project Zyons. they mist up exactly the same amount as every other set of glasses i have ever worn.

Plus side is you can buy glasses cheaper and swap the insert between them to get different lenses

downside, they sit off your face a bit more than i’d like and your eye lashes clip them which takes a while to get used to, but i don’t notice now.

Mine have lasted 5 years (my prescription has barley changed in that time) and are still nigh on unmarked after all those years of abuse and and have been used for hundreds of rides in all conditions.

cost was £196 from extreme-eyewear. which is about £40 per year so far. so are well worth the money i spent.

The Pinnacle Iroko 4 is ace, owned the 2016 model for a year now and love it

the new one is even better
click

they do cheaper versions, but all the same frame.

frame weighs around 11lbs with shock and nothing else. its far far far too heavy. and thats the least of the problems.

Avoid like the plague, truly appalling company to deal with above all else.

winrya, i’m running them as short as they’ll go, 130mm

Love mine!

^exactly..

I have a shock set up with needle bearings. it PERMANENTLY has play in it, as has every other one i have seen. they are a great idea and do smooth out the suspension action if you have loads of rotation from linkage to shock. But, they are not play free.

I stick to Normal bushes now.

Best you’ll probably get is this by Sunrace

its 11-42 10 speed

thanks daern, i’ll order that shortly.

Does anyone have a link to a compatible grease gun for the lower link on the Hightower?

Kit should have everything you need to do it yourself, its really not hard if you take your time.

Good luck

you’ve lost nothing by trying it and as above, it’ll probably be stronger.

buy a socket or the proper tool? or a length of PLASTIC plumbing pipe in the right diameter

To be honest a years use and 1500 miles through winter is bloody good going. Other brands i’ve owned have lasted 2-300 miles at most. and they aren’t free.

as above, rebound sounds slow, leading to the fork/shock packing down

you mention you recently switched from flats to SPDS. could it be your shoes/cleats? or the SPD mechanism being a bit dry

If it’s not the pedals then check the mech hanger is tight. Also, how long ago were the bearings done? I never get more than 6 months out of a set..
Other things to check are rear wheel tension, cassette, especially if it’s a Sram xd type, rear mech pivots and chainring bolts.

YGM

Don’t buy two-tone tape. I will never ever ever do that to mine again, was not worth the ridiculous amount of effort to get it right.

tools for the cranks come with it, the BB’s are separate and do not have tools included ever.

leave the tube in…

Chains last fine on 1 x 11 unless it’s really wet and gritty.
There’s a small black cap under the clutch mechanism, quarter turn and it pops off, think it’s a 1.5mm Allen key to adjust the clutch. Start with just a quarter turn and adjust with the clutch off. When it’s on the cage should move only when there’s a fair bit of effort involved.
Any gears in particular that it falls off in?

Depends on the model! Small Allen key to tighten up the clutch a bit, only needs 1/4 turn at a time or so.

When is it dropping? Is the chain the right length?

Is your clutch working? If it’s shimano, they need to be adjusted periodically.

normally a blocked transfer port between the +/- chamber. a mates used to do this a lot, a sharp tug to pull them back to full length always cleared it with a pop/squelch sound.
alternatively, a lower service along with a clean of the air spring will sort it. dead easy to do.

It’s the bearings starting to seize on the mondraker that cause them to snap the chainstays. Buy a new rear end and swap the bearings every 5-6 months regardless..

As above, felt weird for a few miles, then normal. Climbing steep loose stuff is where its of most benefit.

One thing i’ve found and not seen documented anywhere is it does make out of the saddle sprinting harder, i.e the oval timing is out when you shift position and try to sprint so you end up in the “dead” spots on the ring just when you need them. its something that Rotor must have realised and hence why they allow you to clock their rings to suit.

For the most part though i think its ace on my hardtail. Stuck with round on the full sus as that has bags of climbing traction and i sprint it more.

Got a Volare not an equilibrium, absolutley love it

new XT m8000 bbs do require an adapter tool, its a plastic thing thats easily mangled to give you a heads up. They come with the new BBs but are like hens teeth to find as spares on their own

I have similar with Migraines, feel utterly confused and struggle to get words out. no real pain as such. horrid feeling and takes days to get over.

i’d suggest if there is no definitive proof of a TIA you keep pushing for a firm diagnosis before rushing into anything. If it does go down the migraine route, you may never get another, they may become more common.

Took an E-bike out for a spin up onto the south downs from home on my usual evening ride, popped it into turbo mode for the climb and smashed the KOM by over 6 minutes.
email the next day from the guy who held the previous record asking me if my battery went flat.
Lol.

^ thats exactly the right option, always works for me

I’ve warrantied a few and the last one has done 2 years perfectly.

You have checked the pressure right?

depends entirely on what the post is paying you back for?

got GE1s, i find them better on narrower bars due to the position it gently puts you in. i.e i run 780mm bars with “normal” grips, but feel better on 760mm bars with the GE1s

Also, i find they are only comfy with thin non padded gloves. Gloves with gel on the heel of your hand (or anywhere) makes them really uncomfy as it accentuates the shape of the grip to the extreme and adds pressure where it shouldn’t.

previous experience of the old Hi-Lo Strate would say “why would you bother?”

plenty of other options out there