whats happening next Saturday?

Not much to be honest. North downs way is close but hardly singletrack. Tilgate isn’t too far away if you drive, as is peaslake and all its fantastic riding. Tilgate will be a bog after all todays rain though

14 miles and you need 1 hour 45 mins to get there…..
Get a cheap turbo trainer and use it while watching films a few nights a week. You should be able to do the 14 miles comfortably under the hour.
Interval training is the quickest way to build fitness.

The kit is the same quality as endura etc (perhaps less), made in the same place (perhaps even factory) so what is their USP? Nice graphics?

they are far far better designed than Endura and the fit is far better. that makes them much better for me. granted not everyone is the same shape and not everyone wants to pay the price, but for those that do, they will get a superbly designed bit of kit for riding mountain bikes.
USP – they are designed by riders (enduro racers) for riders, which has been said many times before granted. they have addressed some glaring holes in current products designs and incorporated elements from other sports that make sense, like the aforementioned liftpass holder on the sleeve. its by your hand, not on your thigh, so instead of trying to pull off a yoga move standing on one leg trying to activate the gate with the pass in your thigh pocket whilst pushing your bike through, you just wave your hand. nice and simple and i for one like that.
Everyone has to start somewhere with a company and i for one will give them my support by buying their products. its nice to see someone start up a company that makes great products in this current economic climate

Having gone through this last summer with my son, the only real way of doing it is giving him time. make it fun as this will encourage him to spend more time on it when you are not there. start with training wheels (somewhere quiet if he is embarrassed he can’t ride) let him ride with those and get used to stopping and starting on his own. when he’s happy with that, suggest taking the training wheels off (on grass!) and see how he goes. as someone mentioned above, you will get a sore back! It important to keep it fun all the way.
I found it just clicked one day, mine wanted to go back to training wheels, then decided all of a sudden he only wanted one. then did a lap of the garden, proclaimed he was ready for none, i took the other wheel off and off he shot, he’s never looked back!
It can be a slow process, but it will click for him and he will get there, there is no set time on it, it could take him a week, it could take him 6 months, but it will happen.

Good luck

I met the owner at the london bike show, chatted to him for quite a while, really nice young chap. the clothes are made in china (as EVERYTHING is nowadays) they are really well designed (i’d buy the jersey just for the lift pass holder on the sleeve), expensive, but no more so than other premium brands, and they ARE trying to be a premium brand from what i could tell.
agree they are expensive, but they are really really nice clothes, really well designed and the owner really knows his stuff.

Maxxis High roller semi slick.

Turner RFX 2008, Before:

and after:

They preload the coil spring to acheive the correct sag. Pop spring cap off and there will be a stack of them on top of the spring, or none!
If its wallowy midstroke, play around with the damping, adding preload will do nothing.

I stand by what i said, i have had dealings with bikes from at least 4 different branches of Halfords and all had to be stripped and reassembled to be made safe, they were literally dangerous.
Nothing wrong with Carrera, just Halfords employing idiots.
Andyruss, don’t take it so personally, you may well be the only employee who is worth his weight and i salute you for that, lord knows halfords needs some decent knowledgeable staff. maybe you could come and work down here, guildford, horsham, crawley or redhill…. they all need sorting out.

ritchey do lock on foam WCS grips….

i’ll try and stop you…. Halfords, that should be enough to send you running for the hills.
not a being a bike snob, but they are a disgrace to bike retail.

been around a while that first vid, bloody awesome though, Jeb Corliss is a grade A lunatic

basically they will offer you book price for age and mileage, NOT what it will actually cost to replace it. sometimes this will work in your favour, sometimes not. Be prepared, find out now how much an exact replacement (same age, model, colour, engine, condition etc) will cost to buy from a dealer and then find a few examples. Then when they make an offer you can instantly say, that’s not enough because… and present your evidence why.

its a game, play it!

aren’t they covered by a lifetime replacement warranty? i.e. contact whyte and they’ll replace them free of charge?

I thought they were the most pointless things ever invented until i had a go on one. Total game changer for me, love them

did my turner RFX with nitromors a scraper and wire wool to finish up the tubes. took about 8 hours to do the front. no paint or laquer needed afterwards. no problems at all, Turner even sell them like this from new.

\put the new tyre on and inflate to 20psi, check the bead is not lifting off the rim, then start inflating to 60psi. at some point, you’ll hear the tyre “PING!” and seat properly into the rim bed (ever had a car tyre replaced and heard that?), then deflate to your correct pressure.
and don’t use continental tyres, in my experience, they seem to have stretchy beads and wafer thin flexible sidewalls and are the only tyres i’ve popped off a rim, destroying the tyre.

It was a joke, just showing the exasperation i had with my experiences of tubeless, showing the darkside of it if you like!

I know it works for a lot of people, but it would appear to not be my thing. :lol:

I knew my post would be picked on!

If you carry a tube, fixing a puncture can be done in less than a minute trailside, its clean, simple and quick, if you do it right, so many people don’t. if you run tubeless and puncture badly, you will get VERY messy and sticky.

I have destroyed tyres running them tubeless due to burbing. i used stans flow rims with the green rims strip at my last go, i will NEVER go back to it. as far as i am concerned its all hype.

It helps that i only puncture once or twice a year it seems, so for me there really is no contest, Tubes all the way.

in my experience, the (small) benefits do not outweigh the negatives.
sure you can run 5 psi less, the wheel will weigh 50g less and you may never pinch puncture (I think they are the only stated performance benfits, although are bragging rights a benefit?).

BUT

you have to faff around with sealant, Messy.
UST tyres cost more, Sealant costs more.
You either need Co2 canisters, a compressor or Popeye to inflate the tyres fast enough to pop them on the rim.
You have to wait a a good few hours after fitting a tyre for it to have sealed enough to ride on and it will go down constantly for a few weeks till the sealant has filled all the porous bits of the tyre.
if the pressure is too low, or the tyre sidewall or bead too flexible, it can burp, roll off the rim etc, this requires you to use (shock Horror!) a tube to repair it on the trail, so you get all your riding kit, hands and bike covered in sealant.
You can’t just swap tyres over before a ride if needs be.
I’ve tried it 3 or 4 times over the years and have NEVER been convinced its worth it or that i can feel any difference on the trail, and i have used UST rims, UST tyres, Stans rims and strips and normal tyres etc.

Some people swear by it, i say save the money.

Hi,

In reply, I haven’t used prescription riding glasses with an RX insert, i can assume they would be better as the frames would block the periferal field a bit more. I found you just get this focused area in front of you riding in normal specs that moves out of relation to your perfierral, with contacts you don’t. Also, in reply to the others that have astigmatism, so have I and wear weighted lenses and i have never lost one, sure they go a little blurry from time to time, but a few blinks cures it, or a quick stop to put in some saline.

Can’t recommend them enough for riding if you are a glasses wearer, just make sure you ALWAYS wear eye protection (which needn’t be expensive, my Endura specs are only £15) and carry spare lenses in car and pack and don’t forget to take your glasses either!

I also find it helps to put the lenses in at least an hour before riding as they settle down better, especially if you don’t wear them very often as it takes longer for your eyes to adjust.

If you only use contacts for riding as mentioned above, its very cheap as well! the only thing you may have an issue with is finding some that suit your needs, i find the biomedics ones suit my eyes best of all, and they appear to be the cheapest! it can take time to find the correct ones for you, but its definitely worth the hassle.

Daver

I use 1 day contacts solely for riding, glasses everywhere else. I never have a problem with my eyes watering too much, quite the opposite. I wear clear non prescription cycling glasses (endura ones) and its been a revelation for me. I take along a little pipet of saline in case they get too dry.
Prescription glasses give you a field of vision in front of you, but your periferal vision (probably not spelt right!) is out of focus, i found that made wearing prescription glasses impossible for me as it made me dizzy when riding!

Just make sure you clean your hands before taking them out after a ride!

works fine, cable tie the outers to your rear brake line mounts along with the rear brake hose and then run two cable ties around the chain/Seatstay to hold the far end on the frame down to the rear mech.
I ALWAYS do this, it stops ghost shifting and makes cables last and last and last…

I did the same at the weekend, i resorted to smearing some spare sealant around the unseated edge of the tyre, went up in 2 seconds after that with a trackpump.

so basically what i was thinking then, run them at about 5psi less.

thanks for confirmation and i’ll let you know how it goes

Just got off the phone to CRC (they called me) they have had a problem and will hopefully have it resolved next week. have a major fraud team involved..
Not good for them.

well, i got a call this morning, £1305 spent in John Lewis yesterday as i was leaving work…
the ONLY time i have used my CC in the last year was on CRC last week.

hungry monkey – Member
[smug]

i live in morzine

[/smug]

[Double Smug]

I work with a cheerleader…

[/Double Smug]
:D

On one even used to state with the original 456 Summer Season that it WILL rust.
nothing to worry about at all! as mentioned, if its that much of an issue, get it powder coated and it’ll be like new.
Or sell it and buy the Ti one….

its probably a different type of data connection. my HTC Legend gets a 3 for 3g, and H for HSDPA and i also get an E for Errr?

Nice vid, looks like a fun trail :-)

hopefully ride with you guys again soon and for longer than my last time out!!

Dave

This is not part of the witch hunt so please don’t delete, but something EVERYONE selling on here should be aware of regarding distance selling (not sure if its listed on the site anywhere), especially if you are going to hide the fact you are a trader:

If you buy goods from a private individual, for example, through an advert in a newspaper or shop window, or at a car boot sale, you have very few legal rights. However, if the seller offers a description of the goods, they must match the description given. If your goods don’t match the description given, you may be entitled to compensation. You may also be entitled to compensation if you have bought an unroadworthy car from a private seller, which has caused injury to someone. However, it may be especially difficult to get compensation from a private seller.

Sometimes, people who sell goods as part of their business pretend to be a private seller in order to avoid their legal responsibilities towards their customers. This is a criminal offence.If you suspect that the person you have bought goods from is not really a private seller, you should complain to Consumer Direct

So this guy is definitely a trader. if he is buying stuff, breaking it down and flogging it on, then he should be paying tax, Ni etc. the fact he is not using the stuff proves he is in it for profit, therefore it is a business. i am not trying to cast aspersions as he may well be totally legit and paying tax.
but, no one in their right mind is going to buy bikes, spend time stripping them down and then sell them on for no profit. totally different if he was actually using the gear for a while, but clearly he is not.
don’t get me wrong, i am all for making a little extra money on the side, but there are little things like distance selling laws that you have to comply with if you are Trade selling via the web.
as far as i can see, he is at the very least breaking that law.

easy to block IP addresses.

& just as easy to use another one

If you employ what a lot of the motor Forums (can only start trading once you have 50 posts in other no trading areas of the forum) and apply this everytime they re register or there is a new IP address, it will deter a lot of the fraudsters. they are in it for a quick buck, that stops them.

It would take a little work, but based on a feedback system, how about a 3 strikes and you are banned for a month from selling, 3 more and banned for life? easy to block IP addresses.
I know digger personally and having seen the trouble he has had with the forks in question and missing parts and all the broken promises and chasing he has had, i would not touch the seller in question with a barge pole. the fact others have had similar experiences speaks volumes about the type of seller he is.
why is he not barred from selling on here?