i have the Sight 1, and have previously used the C guide on other bikes with clutch mechs. it is not required at all. the c guide is a terrible thing, the chain saws through it regularly and increases drivetrain friction so much.
ditch it and either use a proper chainguide or go with the clutch mech on its own, they are awesome.

i’ve got them, they are loads lighter. other than that, i find the normal rotors work better, centre lock for me doesn’t seem that secure, my front rotor in particular has some rotational play.

i’ll stick to cheaper more secure “normal” rotors

Lock On Grips. simple, brilliant and so far in this thread totally absent!

for those that remember the early 90’s mtb, it was a right of passage to pull up on the bars on a wet ride and lose a grip from the bars.

I discovered them in 1998 in a very wet Morzine after one too many crashes from grips sliding off my bars.

I have never gone back to slip on grips. never will.

after that, Hydraulic Disc brakes, why its taking so long for other bikes (namely road)to adopt them is beyond me.

Try the new Hope lock ons. just put some on mine and i have a sneaky suspicion they are the best lockon grips ever made, no collars causing pressure, just lovely thin grip all the way across, kinda like a slip on grip but better!

I’ll grab some tonight.

another advantage is how easy it is to clean your drive train….pop the chain off, scrub the chainring spotless and pop the chain back on.

its a breath of fresh air

i’ve now done another ride and tried as hard as possible to derail it in the first half of the ride down some very rough and steep trails. i failed.

infact i totally forgot about it after half the ride as it was just brilliant.

i am using a Norco Sight 1 so 140mm trail bike and i ride it hard, so it is getting a good test!

genuinely didn’t think it would be this good

thread about thick thin works components ring

i’ve been running the same setup. and have just switched to one of those works components thick thin rings.

i ran the top guide for a ride and then decided to try it for the last few trails of a ride last week.

since then i have not run the top guide. I genuinely didn’t think it would work, but despite my best efforts i have not dropped the chain once.

it could be riding style that helps. Do you back pedal into corners to weight the outside pedal? thats a classic for dropping the chain.

How long is your chain? get it as short as possible with the rear suspension fully compressed and in the large sprocket. that will help.

Also, having the clutch wound up solid won’t help. it needs some movement, not none at all.

I can’t recommend the thick thin rings enough right now. time will tell how they go once they start wearing though.

hahaha!

the original XTR one was a bit different, but other than that, they all work exactly the same!

and they are brilliant

you mean you are missing the seal around the housing right?

just thought i’d resurrect this old thread.

I have one that i have been using for the last month with a top guide only. i decided at the end of my ride to take the cage off the top guide last night and ride the last few trails as the ring was intended, guideless.

Blown away is how i would describe the experience, no loss of chain, no noise at all and i was REALLY trying to give it a hard time.

thoroughly impressed with it. I am now going to take the top guide off fully and see how it goes over the next few months.

I should say i am using an XT mid cage clutch mech as well.

thanks for the feedback, will try for size again in that case, love the designs, just sizing never fitted me!

Casual clothing sizing is (in my experience) based on the short and wide model, not the slimmer figure, so if you normally need a large tshirt or hoody, it will be too short in the arms and body but really baggy.
definitely try before you buy

thats a bit a falsity though legend, thats an Enduro EVO, so bolt through back end, Coil springs etc, its a fair whack heavier than a normal Enduro.

back onto topic, the 34’s are an awesome fork, as are the 36’s, both really capable, 36 only really needed if you are planning on going to the alps as the extra 1/2lb in weight over the 34’s goes into a stronger chassis

Svalgis,

In theory yes, you could run a lower shock pressure to get the suspension more active/plusher without it bottoming out.

important to note you can only do this mod on the XV sized cans, the smaller can models would require the proper fox reducing kit.

i did it on an RFX i had, made an awesome difference, but swapped the whole can out for an LV one. which was even better.

about to do the same to my new bike (the shim mod) as i have to run it “Just” too firm to stop bottoming.

if memory serves, the shim i made was around 22mm wide, altering the width adjusts the volume reduction, but you need to make sure you don’t cover the holes in the inner can.

can’t recommend doing it enough

M&S are still the only ones i can find that insure bikes in a shed

i bought it up with them, they honoured the renewal price and allowed me to declare 3 bikes worth more than 2k without altering the price.
phone up and talk to them, they’ll generally deal with it in a good way

better than it flapping in the breeze, a new hose and connector is a LOT more than £16..

you can do it with cable ties, but why not spend £16 on something proper to finish off a nice build?

something like this

dropper cable guide

If you do a lower service, its cheap and easy, if you are in any way mechanically minded, rockshox are a doddle to self service, just download and follow their manual to the letter.
I find that roackshox air shox are less reliable than their coil forks, but, if you do a lower service, there is no need to take any of the air spring or damper apart.

Suggest you do a lower service before anything else then!

Seriously need to get a reverb cable guide on it tho…

Have you done a lower service recently? Rockshox need regular lower servicing or they get VERY sticky.

Happy Birthday bud!

for a start, what headset is it? some headsets (FSA orbit for example) have warranties on the bearings ranging from 2-10 years + it may be a struggle, but if it is one of these, you should be able to at least claim for a new set of cartridge bearings.
If it is a normal loose ball jobbie, then i am surprised you got 8 months use out of it given the summer we’ve had, suck it up and spend £30 on one of the above and rejoice in never having to worry again!

I’ve seen the XTR breakdown what i can’t find is any sort of maintenance instructions/schedule. the Zee came filled with lithium grease, the XT nothing and the images i’ve seen of the XTR show no grease from memory.

they come supplied with no instructions, and the XT and Zee are not the same internally as the XTR, they don’t come with the little spanner (well, mine haven’t) so trail side adjustment is impossible unless i take a spanner along or some pliers (it also opens the mechanism up to the elements and contamination.)

FunkyDunc – Member

all this thread is doing is re-afirming my belief that there are some c***s on the road who really shouldn’t be

Quite probably. Are those c***s the ones who have no idea how a car behaves at the limit of control or when you go passed it, the ones for whom ignorance is bliss?

neither and granted they are both just as dangerous as the ones who think its ok to drive like a c**k on speed, believing they know what they are doing.
take it to a track, learn what car control is, take a course that will demonstrate you know nothing and teach you the error of your ways and then go about your life driving sensibly knowing that you know how to drive and that the systems in the car are there to help should you need them in an emergency and aren’t there to stop you crashing.
it defies belief how many people really think they know what a car is doing and is capable of. you NEVER know what is around the next bend, could be a fallen tree, road collapsed, a horse/cyclist/kid, an accident, gravel on the road, mud, ice, road closed etc.
so unless you actually have REAL ESP and genuinely know what is about to happen ahead of schedule instead of a safety feature on your car, slow down and above all else concentrate on what you are doing and think “what if??”

christ i sound old. :-)

all this thread is doing is re-afirming my belief that there are some c***s on the road who really shouldn’t be

some of the comments on here make for frightening reading. i can definietly recommend a PROPER advanced driving course where this will get explained and demonstrated to all those that think its a bad thing. some of the comments show an unbelievable lack of understanding of what it does and basic understanding of car control/vehicle dynamics. i wouldn’d want to be on the road with some of you!!
Sadly, i will be and thats what ESP is there for, as some have mentioned in 99% of driving, you would never know its there, it is like the safety net, there to catch you when the unforseen happens and the responsible driver has to get out of the way of some inept wanna be F1 driver finding the limits of his/her car.

definitely worth it. i did an high speed driving course with Rob Gravitt a few years back and they banged on about its vitues for ages. basically they said its worth having over many many other options and put on some practical demonstrations to prove it.
for road driving where the unpredictable happens regularly, its a god send. for track driving where the surface is consistent and everyone is goign the same way its not worth it and actually makes the car worse, but then when are you going to take a berlingo on a track?? and why would you turn it off ont he road?

by the way, they are great vehicles!!

I’ve had mine for a few weeks now, 2nd ride today and its already failed. looks like mine is missing the seal around the clutch mechanism housing and has corroded up which stops the cage from springing back so the chain stays slack. just a warning to you guys to pop the cover off and see if the seal is there, if not, you will end up with a rapid failure.

when it was working, man it was awesome!

Watched, penning silly question asap!

aren’t they clipped to the underside of the shift window that you remove? thats where all of mine have been.

A better approach to this whole situation would have been to have done it above board, speak to the land owners, promote it in a positive way and do it LEGALLY. It could actually have had some positive effects if it was done right. Sadly that opportunity has now well and truly gone. Chances of it being done legitimately now? Zilch.
Chances of it causing access issues for all the other cyclists? Huge.
It was “underground” because they knew it was wrong and illegal. Simple.

Next time you mince your way down Northern Monkey or ride round the jumps on flytipper just remember who built these trails….he has virtually single handedly made what Surrey Hills riding is todaye.

What’s that then? Hated by the people that live there or loved by the London fanboys who think its there own personal trail centre? Please kindly inform me.
All the supporters seem to forget that it is ALL technically private land and we are bloody lucky to be allowed to ride in this beautiful area at all.
ALL the trails started off as illegal and as such we’ll always be fighting a losing battle. This event was idiotic to say the very least.

We all know who organises it and he puts in a hell of a lot more than he takes out so I for one trust him not to destroy mountain biking in the area!
Well, whoever that is is a stupid f*cking idiot. Deserves a right slap.

We all know who he is, and its not for any old reason that there is a lot of bad feeling from the locals who put up with us far far too regularly. Yes he puts in a lot of time building trails, but lets not forget, they are for the most part illegal. this just puts the final nail in the coffin for me, the guy is an absolute idiot.
I grew up there and have ridden there for nearly 25 years now and the change in the last few years is not all for the good. and yes, i do enjoy the trails, but i haven’t forgotten that its private land, walkers have right of way and that being polite to people out enjoying the area comes first, it is in no way solely a bike playground.
this kind of short sighted, Selfish behaviour will have just armed the locals to the teeth with ammunition should it come to it.
Tat… ..ve, the MBR guys et al should be very very ashamed, not praised as MTB heros.

I’m facing the same, got my first MRI this Sunday, then appointment with specialist 2 weeks later. preliminary diagnosis is a torn lateral miniscus. looking up cures, its rest or surgery. rest has failed, so think surgery is in my near future.
How long is your recovery predicted to be? hope it goes quickly and you come back stronger. I’m not looking forward to what they find in my knee, but really want the pain gone.

they work with the previous generation Xt brake, so there should be no problems at all

You talking about the rx inserts? No thanks, I want proper prescription lenses, clear, in a decent wrap around it sports type glasses style. Like oakley do but preferably without the 300 pound bill!