i’ve stripped 2 frames with nitromors, its not as good as it used to be, takes ages. never ever had a problem other than mind numbing boredom waiting for it to strip the paint off!

ti_pin_man – Member
Shimano
but then when the shimano are dead they are dead and cant be rebuilt.

nope. easily re-buildable cartridge axle, and if its beyond repair you just screw a new one in. not that i’ve managed to kill one in the last 10 years!

CaptainFlashheart – Member
Which one has the best bearing life?
Time.

wrong, Shimano. :lol:

if its clamping the bb up tight, you have too many in. the red one is a spacer on the crank axle. the 2.5mm one is the spacer behind the BB cup right?
the idea is to put enough spacers on the axle so that you can bottom out the cranks on the spline when doing the 8mm bolt up (its bloody tight) with no side to side play in the bb. if the bb is too tight with the cranks tight, or before you get the bolt fully tightened then you have too many spacers, if there is side to side movement then you don’t have enough.
it depends entirely on your bike as to how many you need, mine runs 3 to get the correct spacing, the previous bike only had one or none depending on whether i had a hope bb or shimano one installed.
worth trying before buying anyway, hope it helps.

you might have too many on, try taking one off before you buy any.

This is how to fit them

yes they are

You should have some of these Click to space the axle out so this doesn’t happen and adjust the chainline.

Were they new or 2nd hand? if new, they should be in the box and you will need 2-3 of them

forget travel, look at the geometry.

i am sure bikediscount.de is the cheapest i have found.

the one i have been most impressed with is the Giant Contact switch. I’ve had Gravity droppers, a Crank brothers Kronolog, a command post and 4 reverbs (normal and Stealth)

the gravity dropper just worked and worked and worked, but was crude.
kronolog was just crap and was visibly worn before i’d ridden the bike.
Command post was a bit flaky as the mechanism jams with mud (fixed with the stealth one, but thats OE only at present)
and ALL of the reverbs i have had have failed and been replaced under warranty, some after no more than a few rides.

the Giant seems to get mediocre reviews from mags, but i think its ace. similar system to Thomson in that its a sealed cartridge doing the moving, infinite travel adjustment in its range, cable operated and a super simple seatpost that has remained smooth, best of all, it can be converted in less then 2 minutes from external routing at the post head to internal at the post base with nothing more than a multitool, same goes for serviceing. and, its £145… only downside is its only a 4″ drop, but thats more than enough!

Giant Contact Switch. use a shim to fit to 31.6, can be converted from internal to external routing. nice little lever and proving to be as good and reliable as anything else out there, and only £145 quid if you shop around!

here

send it back, in my experience, they just send out a brand new one.

i’ve used those roller bearing ones from enduro and believe me they make a massive MASSIVE difference to the suspension and last for ages (super easy to open and keep freshly greased) can’t recommend them enough. never worn one out and used them for the last 2+ years

if you were given it, just buy a complete new remote.

personally i’d never go back on a pure DH bike, modern trail and AM bikes are so capable, a DH bike is just not required and you can actually access more fun riding on trail and AM bikes, rather than bashing out battered DH runs all week.
someone mentioned it earlier, its no fun pushing a dh bike up a mountain when you miss the last lift!!

the zesty will be absolutely fine!

had one for the last 3.5 years (SRAM Rival version) and apart from the SRAM stuff its great.

Only pointer is that i have to have an XL version and its a bit noodley under power, but if you just want it for road riding and not racing its fine. If you want something that can handle a lot of power, look for something stiffer in the BB area. thats my only criticism, and its only minor!

Original planet X wheels are still running beautifully, completely true and bearings smooth despite being forced to ride it through last winter.

i’ve upgraded the brakes from the Planet X ones as they were crap.

Great bike, no plans on selling it any time soon.

you might have ruined a few peoples lives, but you’d have done the gene pool a favour! :lol:

what BB standard does your bike have? bb92, PF30, OSBB etc. there are various alternatives to the Hope.

Glad to be of service!

depends how often you go through BB’s. the Hope screws together to form a single unit rather than two seperate bearings that can move at odd angles to each other. the Hope “should” be miles more durable and less chance of the cups creaking in the frame.

No, mine screwed straight through. I’ll get a pic tomorrow if you like.

the Barfly 3 MTB mount is way shorter and works with short MTB stems down to 50mm as it lifts the Garmin up higher than the SRAM. the SRAM one is much longer too and mounting it backwards with short stems puts it behind the steerer tube, which is worse i thing than out front as you are likely to knee it at some point. you would be ok if you run a 100mm plus stem on your mtb though.

I have both, use the SRAM on the road bike and the Barfly on the MTB, prefer the barfly and would recommend it to anyone.

its only a few grams, and weight isn’t everything. i’ll take reliability over absolute lightweight.

We all have our opinions, neither are absolute. for me, cost, performance (and the continuation thereof) and reliability are far more important than an extra cog, a slightly lower gear and a few grams lighter.

£95 actually, XT cassette is £40, XTR £135. all this from just looking online (in the UK, not bike-discount.de) and you can get 5 XT cassettes for the price of one of the XX1 jobbies at £205, enough for several years riding!
its not an ill informed opinion, its my opinion, and the prices are fact. I am comparing 1x costs, NOT full XTR costs, which is not the same thing.
as i have said, i don’t need the range of xx1 etc. a 32t ring gives way less than a 1:1 low end, which for me is enough to climb just about anything. going down i don’t feel the need for any more.

I agree with you though that the differences are subtle, but in my opinion, XTR is the pinnacle of modern MTB drivetrains functionally. It may not be the absolute lightest, but it is cheaper than XX1 if you set it up with a single ring (considerably so and that can’t be denied) and it is more reliable and far better made, and you don’t need a new wheel or freehub to fit it.

SRAM innovate well, but as far as i am concerned, that is it.

Still utterly ridiculous prices. Fine if you want to spend that, but i’ll spend less on the best there is.
Having used both, there is absolutely no comparison in terms of performance, Shimano is better and it stays working. Plus, you can save £100 by not buying the XTR cassette with no loss in performance.
So, for the price of an xx1 cassette, you can have an XTR rear mech and shifter and chain, XT cassette and a Works components ring.

no brainer.

be interested to know where you got an xx1 cassette from at that price as the x01 cassette is £240 at trade +VAT…

its not cheaper than xtr though is it. (discounted prices here, not RRP)

xx1 cassette £289.99
XTR cassette £135.99

xx1 rear mech £191.99
Xtr rear mech £111.99

XX1 shifter £111.99
XTR shifter £55.99

XX1 chain £42.49
Xtr Chain £31.99

XX1 chainring £55.99
Works Components ring £35

Not forgetting to make xx1 work:
XD Driver £30-60 depending on wheel
XX1 Chainset (comes with ring) £232

that makes a 1×10 XTR conversion come in at £370.96
to go to XX1 (i’ll forget the chainset now and assume you have that for a fair comparison) £679.96-£709.96 depending on your wheelset.

Why would you buy it when XTR is literally half the price for a 1x setup? yes xtr gets close on price when you start looking at front mechs, shifters and chainset, but we are talking 1x drive-trains here.

and before anyone says “ahhh but you don’t get the gear range…” i don’t need it or want it. this works for me and has done for the last few years, the super wide range of xx1 was for me, rubbish.

I’ll stick with the absolute best there is, Shimano XTR and a holiday to use it.

GEDA, the only difference is, yours will probably still be working in a few months! :lol:

Mine got replaced under warranty, replacements were just as iffy, so got a refund.

I fail to see why its so expensive, I went to a 1×10 xtr setup with Raceface Turbine cranks with thick thin ring for half the price and its the same weight.

its like Honda v Porsche (not that i drive either, now.)

Honda, lots of great ideas, badly executed
Porsche Sticking with and refining something over a long time till it is nearly faultless.

Everything i’ve ever had from the SRAM group has been basically, plastic crap. 4 reverbs in a year, a full X01 groupset and Revelation RLTs have all failed me.

Don’t get me wrong here, SRAM innovate well, its just the execution that leaves me wanting. When they make something that lasts and ISN’T made of plastic, i might consider them again.. hang on, no i won’t, i am done with them.

My experience of it is its utter crap. Clutch failed after 3 rides, cassette creaked from new, shifting is awful after years on shimano with 2 way release and double up shift.
Gave it 5 rides and back to a faultless 1×10 shimano setup.
Also, it has the most ridiculous cable routing round the rear mech.
It’s all a good idea in theory, but narrow/wide rings and wide range 10 speed shimano setup is enough to get up anything.

Onza Ibex. the best tyre i have ever used. Ever.

They are aware, fraction of a mm out of tolerance and a new link is on its way in 2-3 weeks.

not in the slightest bit impressed. doesn’t make the job ANY easier, you still have to disconnect the hose to remove the post. and whats the point if you have to perform a long arduous re-bleed pretty much every time? thats what its meant to stop, so it might as well not be there!

Not a fan of the reverb anyway, far far to unreliable. the stealths in particular are beyond unreliable (around a 50% failure rate), the last one i had failed on the second ride (at the connectamjig).

not really my type of bike, but i really like that. price seems pretty damned good too.

conectamajig can only be disconnected 3 times according to SRAM before you have to do a remote bleed.
in my experience, they should reword that instruction to:

“connect the connectamajig and bleed the system, then if you disconnect, bleed it again, and then bleed it again for luck, you’ll need it”

Utterly pointless thing (the connectamajig, not dropper posts).

i’m going to chase up today too. I don’t think its a major issue, more of an annoyance. the main pivot is totally fine, its where the shock linkage and dog bone bit link on mine. just a couple of thou tolerance issue i recon.
Its only going to get worse tho

6’2″, 34″ inside leg on a large 19″ 15x, sizes up bang on for me, much longer than the 14x I’d go medium at your height. For comparison, it’s longer and taller than a large Specialized Stumpjumper fsr

seosamh77

its the walkers right of way. 15mph isn’t fast on a bike, but relative to standing still?

15mph will still cause a lot of damage to a dog, kid, yourself (if you don’t believe me, try getting up to 15mph and jumping off).

frankly, i’m with the OP on this one, its a shared bridleway, on gravel. you aren’t going to stop quick, so slow right down and be polite.

Can’t believe the comments so far! Blindly thinking its your right of way and a walker/dog/kid will move or has actually seen you is idiotic at best. No wonder there is a lot of angst towards cyclists.