gaffa tape the sole so water doesn’t creep in the bottom and combine with warm wool socks (wollie Boolies for example) as natural wool stays warm when wet.

got one sat here Dead, which is the 2nd dead one i’ve had. first one battery died, 2nd one, the rubber switch cover popped out taking half the switch mechanism with it so had to be turned on with a stick. now its totally died and won’t even charge.

Utter crap products for the money they charge.

Brighter than a joystick just, but no where near as good

Buy a Joystick or Diablo, you’ll be glad you did.

have you checked and adjusted the clutch? its a wear item and needs to be adjusted. be warned, the tension adjuster needs only 1/4 turn at a time

shimano MT54’s look quite nice..

the fact its not snapped when you turned it on and is now broken points to an impact of some sort (rock, branch, random bit of bracken) rather than it breaking in your hand would probably negate any warranty.
Worth asking in your local shop if they have any broken mechs you could rob the lever off as they are bound to have something kicking around.

its great wet or dry! Any riding thats achieved whilst you are meant to be working is always great!

chain length for absolute certain. a slack chain will not allow the mech to work properly in the higher gears (smallest sprocket) get your cable stops and chain length sorted before you look anywhere else

Defo a crack.

contact Turner, absolutely the best warranty in the business, they’ll advise you

does sound like the chain is too long now to be honest!

had a 456 and a 456 ti, both awesome fun and cheap as.

not as much, but it is still an issue at the absolute extremes.

so I’m discounting headbanger like type2 rear mech being fierce

literally no idea!

as for the front mech, counter to answer 1, sounds like cable might be too tight or sticking, if it was too loose, it would just drop to the minimum stop easily, and you’d struggle getting the big ring. too tight a cable might not allow it to go fully back. replace cable and tension it correctly.
Also check its not twisted out of line, the outer cage should run parallel to the chainrings.
Also, you need to know about cross chain running. you shouldn’t ride in small small…

Had several Reverb Stealths now, ALL failed. the quick connect thing is junk as you need to bleed it if you disconnect it more than twice. garbage and will never buy another, although they do replace them under warranty, its just major hassle with the hydraulic line.

LEV integra or Thomson Covert for me.

depends on the 3 options, usually best option is a zero cost to you extended hire agreement that then transfers ownership to you after x amount of years.

who’s it with?

I use the same thing with the same wheelsize, forks and tyres… loads of clearance!

a marsh guard is 1mm thick, how on earth does it rub?

one up 42 with 16t and Rad cage on XT mid cage here, totally flawless.

Rad cage well worth the effort and as mnentioned, you can convert the Zee, you just need the inner cage from a mid cage mech.

alternatively, i have an XTR mid cage for sale….

Boom!

MTB has suffered due to the massive, massive rise in road bike riding since the olympics and Wiggins tour win. it is by far the most popular form of cycling now.

MTB sales decline has nothing to do with Wheel size issues, its just Road riding is in peoples faces a huge amount more, so people want to have a go at road riding, hence buying more of them and not MTB’s

not neccesarily.. depends on type of freehub (alloy or steel) certainly i’ve seen it where a loose lockring can present itself with one or two loose cogs and the others appear fine because they have gouged into the freehub and are essentially locked in place.

First place to look tho.

honestly just sounds like the lockring has come a bit loose…

its here – Clicky

or contact these guys – MB Bearings

63803 bearings according to pdf (which aren’t directional), cost – about £20 for 10 (so you have spares) and 1/2 hour to fit. is it even worth the hassle?

Marshguard on the front and waterproof shorts on the rear..

rim joining sleeve loose. find the join, take the rim tape off and squirt some spray grease or a small bit of expanding foam into the area where the sleeve is, should stop it.

I went from 2014 34 Factory FIT Kashima model to Pikes. Night and day difference, the PIKE absolutely blows the 34 out the water performance wise.

The damper (contrary to what everyone seems to think) on the 34 is great, the problem is the air spring and it relying on a coil negative system, which if you require a firmer air spring is not strong enough to give decent small bump response. you can also feel/hear it disengage 1/3rd of the way through the travel (normal behaviour according to FOX), and it is HARSH. they have now dropped this system on the 36 and gone with an air negative (like the PIKE) and i can only assume the 34 will follow in due course.

I ran the 2013 fox 34 and i must have had a good set, as they were plush and really really nice. the 2014 attempted to address an issue that really didn’t exist (too much dive if i remember right) and they made them too firm imo.

Warranty the PIKEs and save your money, or spend it one other things!!

Empire?

pretty much anything is more reliable than a Reverb Stealth. utter Rubbish as far as i am concerned

considering exactly the same here. swaying towards the DL31. the TL23 SS wheelset is being used by a mate and they are really really light, no reason to worry about strength so far either it would seem.

5ten freerider VXi? much nicer looking than normal skate style shoes and all the grip of proper 5tens.
If you are coming back from a broken leg and don’t want the twist motion to release from SPDs, you don’t want to end up going the other way and having limited grip from using incorrect shoes which will ultimately lead you to slipping a pedal which could have far worse repercussions.
depends what you plan on riding.

Onza Ibex RC2a, BRILLIANT tyre.

you don’t state the type of riding or terrain, but that Onza seems to work on everything.

i’ve used the RF one, Works components, SRAM X01 and the superstar. In all honesty, they are all as good as one another, but, the superstar runs a tad quieter and has markedly longer teeth. you physically have to lift the chain off, it doesn’t come off even if the clutch is off.
I have to say the Superstar is the best performing one i have used and the cheapest. its an easy win.

both buttons together for the front shift? urgh. going on EVERYTHING they have released recently, its bound to have issues as well.

have you clicked the freehub seal back into place properly?

Mine are ace, and I went from factory 34s as I had 4 sets of them fail.

use a tyre lever to push it back in if you don’t have the proper tool. it literally Clicks into place. you’ll know when you have it right

have you seated the seal around the freehub? that usually holds it in and frees it all up, if thats not clicked in all the way round, its stiff as

the originals will be absolutley fine.

however, you might be prudent in replacing at least one half of the nut/bolt set with a steel item as you do end up putting more load on them.

Giant contact switch. Utterly brilliant

One up rad cage and 42t expander here. Works flawlessly (once I’d got the cage spring in the right hole)
I’ve had x01 before and this works better to my mind. And it’s not SRAM which is a huge bonus.
I use an xtr mid cage mech, the zee simply doesn’t have the capacity to cope with the gear range you are trying to achieve. Also,how on earth is you chainline out? Unless youve spaced the chainring or put the adapter on wrong then the chainline won’t have changed!