25’s Just. there is about 1mm clearance on the top of the fork crown so best not for wet rides or you’ll end up with a grinding paste of grit wearing out your fork crown.

another positive on the Charge here. conversely to everyone above, i find the Roam to be a great tyre too, works well in a lot of conditions if you really push it.

its where i always get my max HR, always has been and i don’t race. its not being scared or anything else, you just use a lot more muscles moving the bike around therefore the old ticker has to work a lot harder and mostly the muscles are being used anaerobically.

another alternative in your price range are the specialized Boomslang. Grippiest pedal i’ve ever owned and super thin

Are you sure? as far as i can tell there is no adjustment on the bearings or bushings, its a fixed axle with a collet to lock it in place and prevent unwinding.

i almost hope that is the case as at least there is a reason and a warranty frame should solve it.

Such a fun bike to ride, i don’t want to replace it with anything else!!

we regularly fit 12 in at work.

looks far too short and the paint splat graphics should have been killed off by now and they are in contrast to the modern looking Codeine logo on the seatpost.

Agree with the comment about the downtube and toptube not meeting at the headtube, they should meet, if only to get the front end height down as it looks far too tall (might be the angle of the shot, but it looks like someone stuck 160mm forks on a 100mm frame..)

i’ll reserve judgement on the Marzoocchi bits for now…

it won’t work.

Shimano do a 135 centerlock Ultegra hub thats 11 speed compatible.

does the garmin support bluetooth? i thought they were just ANT+. if it doesn’t i would suspect this won’t work

Pinnacle

Thats actually a really great idea. kudos.

Exactly Northwind

2 days tops, should be same day for a pair of wheels if they know what they are doing

I knew someone would go there…. :roll:

works better in my experience, not is a better product, just an alternative that i find easier to use and have better results with.

Why make life hard? I can set up rims tubeless without leaks from scratch in a couple of minutes using Gorilla tape, no messing around de-greasing and cleaning/drying rims and then i find the end product works better for longer.

And no, i haven’t had to take it off for spoke replacement, so can’t comment on that aspect, other than what i stated above.

As i mentioned earlier, i only suggested it as a way of resolving the OPs problem as i find it is more reliable and easier, not to get into a big debate about who’s right and wrong.

i never said it was superior, just miles cheaper and easier to fit and has some benefits. i’ve used it for years and its been great, the same can’t be said for my experiences with Stans or Roval tape (that Roval stuff is awful)

the reason i mentioned trying it is i have had trouble with stans tape not sealing as it doesn’t stick too well to some rims and the sealant and air can get under the tape, whereas Gorilla tape sticks like S**t to a blanket and i’ve never had an issue since switching to it.

“Saying that gorrila tape is better seems to have become one of these statements to show the writer is “knowledgeable” about bikes, when they are really just repeating third hand knowledge that is wrong.”

lol, you do know what Enve use for their hugely expensive tubeless rim tape? yep, 1″ wide gorilla tape with Enve printed on it…

It does work better in my experience. Stans stuff is prone to cracking, and it lifts off the rim if you don’t get it absolutely perfect, allowing air and sealant to leak out, Gorilla tape also reduces the gap between the tyre and rim bed as it’s thicker, reducing burping. And, its a 10th of the price.
So what if the only downside is its messier to take off? in reality how often does that happen and it would be the least of your worries if you needed to.

yep.

What Tape are you using? Stans?

Try 1″ wide gorilla tape. MUCH better

Extreme Eyewear[/url]

Thats who i use, you can go direct glazed or insert. If you go insert, get the above mentioned impact x photochromic lenses. Dark enough for summer, yet go totally clear so you can night ride in them.

you see for me, glasses are as essential as a helmet, i won’t ride without them. too many things have gone in my eyes riding without glasses.

you only get one set of eyes, protect them

its about as heavy as a half empty packet of crisps, you honestly won’t notice it
I’d far rather buy glasses than let any one mess around with my eyes, and your eye sight isn’t really that bad.
I also went this way due to dry eyes and not getting along with contacts.

OP

Honestly, with the RX insert sitting very close to your eyes (you get used to it) peripheral vision is a non issue, I can only see the edge of the RX at the absolute extremes of moving my eyes around, something you just don’t do normally and certainly not whilst riding.
I specifically went for the Rudy project Zyons as they have a full frame, so there is a defined edge which makes you turn your head if you need to look further round.
If you are seriously contemplating £4500 worth of (potentially) damaging surgery, surely it has to be worth a £200 punt to see if it resolves your issues?

Wouldn’t be without mine now.

Have you tried proper prescription riding specs?
For less than 200 you can have an awesome set of specs (provided you don’t HAVE to have Oakley)
Had the same issues with riding in normal glasses, but bought some Rudi Project Zyons with the rx insert. Total revelation.
Bought them from extreme eyewear.
Worth a shot first if you are considering laser eye surgery (which has always seemed like a bad idea to me)

I have the threshold A1, bloody brilliant fun bike.

I don’t know where you got the impression that Shimano brakes will only last a few years..?? i have several sets that are still going strong that are a decade old and have only ever needed the odd bleed every now and then, as well as newer versions that are utterly faultless.

The new Zees are incredible, more brake than anyone will pretty much ever need on a 150mm travel bike, but superbly controlled and easy to modulate, certainly NOT grabby at all.

Hopes are nicely adjustable, but not in the same league as far as power and modulation go.

they had it at the London show, trust me, the pics do not do that thing justice, it is BEAUTIFUL.

but i think it is £1399 for the frame…. which is insane. happy to be proven wrong and the price to be a full build.

thanks for the science lesson mrjmt. but….

the pedals have handed threads (as do threaded BBs) so that the the act of pedaling unscrews the pedal or bb in case of a bearing seizure. if the threads were the other way around, pedaling would permanently tighten the threads in the event of a bearing siezure.

think about the way you turn a pedal spanner to unscrew a pedal, same motion as your legs take to drive the bike…..

Anyhoo, irrelevant.

OP, get on the phone and demand a replacement, if its been agreed to be warrantied, the shop should supply you either the correct part or an equivalent.

typically Hope then!

maybe the pedal threads in the crank were out of tolerance. At least its being warrantied, but to answer your initial question, no you are not being impatient.

Torque shouldn’t matter as your pedaling action tightens them up

wrong, totally wrong. pedalling will loosen them.

OP, have you checked the pedal axles aren’t seizing and causing the axle to unscrew?

best idea mentioned above is to buy new cranks and flog the others as new when they come in from warranty

yep, clear fail through the welds and a known problem.

But, it depends on whether their warranty for soiled items is the same as non soiled.

as Hairyscary says, get someone to weight the bars a little whilst you tighten up the foot nut.

5 tens and large flat thin pedals have moved on the flat pedal game massively from skate shoes and DMR V8s that were prevalent 10 years ago.
I can happily swap between both and each has their benefits, but i do find (as mentioned above) flats are more fun, think flat out drifting into a corner, trailing a foot and then not having to try and clip back in.
Although, if i was going for a hardcore hardtail, i’d go with clips if you ride hard, just to help keep your feet in place.
And it will take a little while to adjust your climbing technique with flats
buy some 5 tens, some good cheap (Superstar, Saint etc) pedals and try them.

definitely not a dale, don’t think they’ve EVER had a ring reinforced head tube, they have always have huge oversized head tubes (another trademark) and as already mentioned, the smooth welds they’ve been doing at least since i was in school (circa 1990..)

i used Extreme-eyewear[/url]. Super helpful, glasses were ace (Rudy project zyons with RX insert) and 3 years later still going strong.

that is just part and parcel of riding an MTB in winter. no different to any other crank. If you buy decent helicopter tape and warm it all up, it’ll fit to all the curves nicely and stay put.

its annoying, but just part of being an MTB rider.

have you got Stamina mode turned on? makes all the difference…

you don’t say what cable inner and outer you are using. Get some compressionless cable. I had a similar thing on my Planet X with the standard cabling. Switched to Durace and bingo, fixed.
Cheap gear cables are a total false economy, high quality cables are the single best upgrade you can do for you shifting.

isn’t the S-works a 73mm bb? in which case, its one spacer on the non driveside BB cup and NONE on the driveside, that’ll move your chainline in significantly and probably help, that and your chain is probably too long. Drop all the air out your shock and compress the suspension to set the chain length. you can probably lose 2 links easily..

Rhino Boot liners?

I’ve tried an XT 10spd clutch mech with my 11 speed 105 STI’s and cassette and it doesn’t work. not sure about 11 speed mech though. might try that when 11 speed XT/SLX comes out.