i’ve been a fan of Android since it came out, my current phone is a Z1. However, the lifecycle of them appears to be just under 2 years, and by lifecycle i mean upgrade cycle.
My Z1 just got the latest Lollipop upgrade and it has utterly ruined what was a decent phone. This happens EVERY TIME with android IME. you need to buy the top end phone at the time of purchase to ensure it is supported for the length of your contract with proper upgrades, but it always goes wrong just before the end of 2 years. whether or not this is a ploy to get your to upgrade i don’t know.
I am tempted to try an iphone 6 as a replacement now, which is something i never thought i would do.

i have the same forks and went through the same process of trying to find the “official” guard. might have to make one!

i think they were there for some “Official” Fox mudguard that never appeared, but was briefly mentioned when they were launched.

no. unless you flipped it somehow to work above the bar

i think its just the internal bleed port blocking. the act of pulling the wheel and bars forces it clear and you are good to go.

its happened twice on my mates in about 2 years.

Check your saddle height first, especially if your hips are hurting. you maybe over stretching or are too scrunched up.

as mtbtom says, mtb spds have loads of float, so as long as the ball of your foot is in front of the pedal axle you should be pretty good with the pedals

i did the shifter mod and found with the command post that the lever throw was really long and vague. preferred the original.

Personally i find the Giant dropper post lever to be the most ergo one i have used.

a mates does this occasionally. i put it down to the little positive/negative bleed ports in the air spring blocking with grease.

we normally grab the wheel and the bars and pull up to fully extend the fork, it goes with a “pop” and full travel is restored for months.

not normally, but it usually take a ride and a decent amount of sealant to make a tyre like that seal. Sounds like there isn’t enough sealant in it.

They are bloody good. Highly recommended if you need it repaired.

Carbon bike repair

This is page 7, look for the “S-works custom respray” halfway down. That is my mate Andy’s S-works Stumpjumper. The chainstay pivot pulled out of the chainstays themselves. had it all repaired over a year ago now and had an AWESOME paint job done as well. Still going strong (and hes a big northern bloke who’s not sutle on a bike!) and really well priced.

They are based in Dorking, Surrey and are really great guys.

clutch is dead easy to adjust, just only wind it in 1/4 turn at a time or it will eventually snap.

I know its sad when someone dies on the road, but honestly, with the amount of people riding and driving, i am surprised its not 5 a day, given the general lack of skill and awareness in both camps.

ridden it on 140mm trail bikes and 150mm trail bikes.

Next time i go i’ll be on the cross bike and do a few laps as anything big and heavy with suspension is totally pointless there

How do they compare to the Havocs? i got rid of mine as they were far far too stiff.

plus they always get a layer of grit in them that wears aware paint on your fork crowns etc.
pointless crap from the 90’s when a seal was just a marine animal rather than something the bike industry used

Same as my 36’s. apparently totally normal according to Mojo. i did question it…

A mates one used to, quite regularly. He just does it up mega tight. Seems to be fine

Take an AM/Enduro/Latest do it all bike to the PDS, Explore and rejoice in finding a shed load more riding than you think is there. I’ll never go back on a pure DH bike as there is so much more to it than just DH, and the latest superbikes can do it all easily.

get one, utterly hilarious things. i resisted for years as i thought they were just wrong, turns out i was!!

absolutely love mine

I think the whole point of this thread was that Yes you can buy a 7k S-works enduro, but you can also buy a 2k alloy version that for all intents and purposes performs 95% the same. With the Nomad, you can’t.

I see some are very quick to defend their purchases on here though

you have to be having dropped that much money on something that is £/performance not that great.

thats not saying they are bad btw, just a shed load of money for the same performance as a bike half its price or less.

i think they need to make the pivot axles out of steel or at least add some sort of hardened race to them. seems once the bushes go, they chew the axles up and then you are royally screwed.

such a shame though that a bike as awesome to ride as that is flawed.

My riding buddy has the 14x, its only just worn out a set of bushings after nearly 2 years. seems to be this problem is exclusive the the 15- range.

i don’t know what you lot are on about about spacers either, there are none!

the play in mine happens where the swingarm meets the “T” shaped part of the linkage, every time.

the only things that could cause that are:

Misaligned linkage part
Misaligned swingarm
Linkage bracket on frame misaligned
excess flex in the swingarm putting too much leverage into the bushing.

I’ve bought a new frame now (not a Saracen). Shame as the 15x is utterly magic to ride.

fitting is dead easy, just unscrew the bolts and the bushes push out and back in again by hand

get the XT’s, as mentioned above, XTR are well known to fail, and its not just the early batches. mine are less than a year old and have failed, bearing play, seals have disintegrated. cheaper to buy a new set of XTs than replace the axles which is madness.
And, there is Zero discernible difference between all of them in terms of performance

i had a proper Avalanche DHX a few years back now, still the best shock i’ve ever ridden.
Keen to get my float X modified for my Dune as its really harsh

For the Avalanche mods, do you send the shock to the states? if so, who do you use for postage?

i’ve just gone from XT’s to Formula CR1’s as i have had yet another XT rear brake fail. Shimano are not quite as fit and forget as people think.

Must say, i am preferring the feel of teh formulas, nice and progressive lever feel and the power really builds the more you squeeze, unlike Shimanos all or nothing.

i have no experience on the longevity of the Formulas as yet.

sweet. thats just what i needed to hear! I don’t want to plump for hopes as the bike is meant to be my cheap commuter.

Crossrides here i come

for me personally i find this an interesting genre that i hope evolves into Lighter/better/longer duration. With a dodgy ticker in my chest, i reckon in 5-10 years time, i’ll be on one of these just so i can keep riding.
i don’t give a stuff about strave and i don’t race. what i do like is to ride my bike, so anything that will aid me or others in my situation in later years gets a big thumbs up.

same here, bubbles up and just isn’t sticky enough.

1″ wide gorilla tape works a treat though, way cheaper and in the last 6 months seems to work better (no tyre burping)

XTR trail pedals… there’s your problem! notoriously bad axles/bearings.

Cleat/Shoe? had very creaky shoes before. BB? not sure i saw what type of BB you have, could be a knackered bearing or creaking pressfit, even on a really new bike.

If you are looking at Evans, check out the Pinnacle Arkose range. bloody brilliant.

Just thought i’d follow up my experiences with the Roam XL..

i’ve just popped a new one on the back of my new bike.

Previous bike was a saracen Ariel 15x, it worked beautifully on that.

New one is a Mondraker Dune RR and it is noticeably more wayward on this frame for some reason. I have no idea why this would be, but there you go!

i’d sort of made my mind up anyway…. lol

just needed some peer pressure to drop that much money!!

My bike shall now forever be known as Tony. ta.

Bullet well and truly bitten and i now own and am staring at a bright Orange Mondraker Dune RR in my office!

Stunning!

any updates on this yet?