don’t bother personally, for the cost of an expander and maybe a modified deraileur cage, you aren’t that far of a rear mech, shifter and cassette from the new XT range, which isn’t a bodge.

my experience of an expander setup was one of “the gearing is what i want, but the shifting is sub-par and i’m forever adjusting the rear clutch mech”

despite what people say, they are a bodge.

if you can afford it, upgrade rather than modify

as Trailride Jim says, get the volume spacers and install them, makes a world of difference.

looks like a clowns bike in that pic.

white wine vinegar

Seen a few pics of this and i can’t for the life of me work out what idiot thought putting the electronics (granted they are covered by a rubber flap) on the back side of the post was a good idea..

Also, when the post is fully dropped on small frames, i bet that part gets a bit of a tyre buzz at full compression..

Other than that, it looks good, although 400 cycles till flat doesn’t seem that many to me? And they also need to bring out a single button remote rather than one that, for most people, will have 2 redundant buttons.

well i am using a Raceface 30mm BB with Hope cranks, and its fine, so should be totally fine the other way round as well!

could be cable ferrules at your bars even.

if its really annoying you, its going to be a replace one part at a time till its gone job! hope its not a big (expensive) part!!

thought it would be the dean easy kit. looks good, even with the drilling. i’m more concerned that you have to glue the larger valve in place…

whats the alternative kit?

if its the same head type as the one above, then buy some fibre grip, dis-assemble the clamp and apply some to the tapered blocks that are squeezed into the post head, then adjust it and do it up tighter than a tight thing (and then a bit more)

if its a 2 bolt post head (thomson for example) then the bolts must not be done tight enough, but to get the movement you are describing the saddle would flop around.

if its a single bolt head post with serrations, buy a new post…

OP, Same here. 5th one and this one has done less than 200 miles, had one that died on the first ride!!
They are utterly terrible imo. So i use them until they break then get a new one from Fishers under warranty, flog that and buy a Specialized command post, which are always brilliant if a little crude.

I could bring the cross bike out as well….

Cheers DrP, i’ll drop you a line next week, i can’t do Tuesday either this coming week!

guess i shall just head over and follow my nose! might be a tad over biked at the moment, or under biked, depending on what i take!!

I did the same with a 1995 Kileauea, had it chromed!!

Same here. £499 frame and 2 full build options £1599 and £1799 ish i believe, might be wrong, just what i’ve heard today. 650b, not 29.

I really like it, something about it looks right.

alternatives are the Cotic BFe i suppose, Production Privee Shan or Oka, maybe On One 456 at the cheaper end.

just look at the pics, the captions are about as much use as a chocolate teapot these days. Utter drivel.

No issues with mine on a hope hub from new. There are issues with some, seems to be the rivets fixing the ti sprockets to the carbon.
It should be a warranty job, i’d be insisting on that given what they cost.
or just get your money back and buy an XT M8000.

sofaboy73, seems to be the usual thing with DMR, you get the odd pair that last forever and then sets that last one ride. in my case (and my mates) we have all sadly fallen into the latter camp.

good pedal, must just have rubbish tolerances.

i do that most winters. keeps the worst of (lumps of mud mainly) grit and wet mud still gets in there and makes them feel graunchy.

DMR vaults are a huge pedal, let down by typically crap DMR bearings. every set i’ve seeen or used have a very short lifespan. over priced tat.

i’m having great results with the specialized Boomslang pedals. one of the few pedals i’ve used that has never developed any play and is incredibly grippy.

Technique does play a part, but not that much, some pedals are not grippy at all. others are amazing.

Concavity has a big part to play in this, if a pedal is too flat, your foot doesn’t sit “in” it properly. Vaults, Crank Brothers and similar are guilty of this flaw.

Sell the Chris King and buy a Praxis or Hope screw together BB, they work really well. Just pressing independent cups in has and always will be a totally daft solution for a problem that never existed.

Failing that, Lunge is bang on the money

I’ve not riden either, but did go from a Large Saracen Ariel 15x to a Large Mondraker Dune RR.

First ride or two were awesome, typical new bike syndrome “its the best bike ever, blah blah blah”.

then i spent the next month or 2 struggling and questioning what i’d bought, it wasn’t fun or playful like i found on the test rides and first few rides, i just really couldn’t get on with it at all.

And then ever so suddenly i clicked with it, i changed my body position to be a lot more over the front and found that it needed to be ridden faster than the Ariel to “come alive”

Now i absolutely love it.

What i’d suggest is that you get a test ride and firstly see if you like the size of it (don’t be tempted to downsize if its too long)

Then if it fits and you like it, buy it, but expect to have an adjustment period once the initial “new bike sheen” has worn off. Its totally worth it.

My parents used to live in a house they bought new nearly 40 years ago, they moved in soon after the builders left and it was a right mess. they called it “Dusty Hole”

Didn’t think it was available till the end of this month. Think you’ll be waiting a while longer yet

How have you converted it to 1 x 10? sounds like chainline to me, usually is in the lower gears.

pop the BB out and swap spacers around to move the drive side crank inboard a few mm and/or add a chainring spacer or 2 to do the same if more is required or you can’t move the BB cups

Brake less…

in answer tot he first two questions, correct on both counts.

No idea on the third, but do let me know as i am looking for exactly the same thing!

Cheers all, Didn’t realise TF did the wheelset support, so have contacted them

Been using them for 25 years ish now. Had my first big crash where i didn’t unclip 3 weeks ago, literally never been a problem, ever. now i hurt, a lot.

the most comical ones i have seen are people casually standing next to their bike kicking the pedals round having a chat, usually with the opposite foot to the pedal they are kicking round. cue wrong foot clipping in by accident, panic, lost balance and an ungraceful fall on top of the bike. It never gets old.

4 year old tyres… There’s your problem.

Shims sit behind the mounting bolts, you can use individual washers, but its a PITA.

ditch it, utterly pointless nowadays

massive lol

it’ll be fine, I think its only the external width of the chain that is marginally thinner on the 11 speed stuff.

Tried changing your cable ferules?

i put up with creaking cleats on my road bike for ages.

I’ve just started using the ht x1 pedal. It’s awesome

I just replaced my mechanical calipers with these.

Night and day better, thoroughly recommend them

get one of these [/url]

and pair it with a set of these

:lol:

not quite Shredder, its purely for setting the position of the closed QR lever when at the correct tension.