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Viewing 40 posts - 561 through 600 (of 1,076 total)
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  • daver27
    Free Member

    i just use the KMC or SRAM 11 speed ones

    daver27
    Free Member

    80 is soft! The tyres will go to 115

    but the rims won’t..

    only time i’ve had cracking like you are mentioning is on a 3 year old set of PX type b wheels. noticed that after a bounce through a rough bit of tarmac, no pothole required.

    daver27
    Free Member

    Just want to jump in and thank Natrix for his input as well. Good to hear from someone who’s gone through what I am.

    daver27
    Free Member

    No idea on teh NHS politics, but i feel your pain. diagnosed with a Bicuspid Aortic valve and enlarged Aorta 2-3 years ago in my mid 30’s. been walking round with a ticking bomb in my chest ever since waiting on the NHS.

    If you can, investigate how much a private fix would be, it may not be as much as you are thinking. Pretty sure they can do holes in the heart keyhole nowadays (feel free to correct me)

    daver27
    Free Member

    Totally different, ones a 140mm trail bike with remote lockout shock, the other is a slack 160mm travel enduro bike that rides downhill like a beast.

    if you are trail riding and want to do some miles, get a Foxy, if you are after Gnar and fun over distance, get a Dune.

    i have a Dune RR, utterly brilliant toy

    daver27
    Free Member

    Agree with the comments above about them being rubbish. i’ve tried MK, TK and XK

    all utterly terrible and all Black Chilli, i’d hate to think what the normal non BC compounds are like.

    very little feel of what the tyre is or isn’t doing and the MK is the only tyre that i’ve written off in one ride, burped it on a rock and de-laminated the tread from the carcass!

    daver27
    Free Member

    Owned both.

    Out the box Pike is better. 36 takes some setup time and is more “sporty” but is a better chassis, much stiffer.

    for general riding and not fiddling around, Pike, for utterly smashing things and getting perfect setup, 36.

    daver27
    Free Member

    Fantastic! Glad to help!

    daver27
    Free Member

    Been using a thuke 591 for the last 6 years and never had any issues. Bike mounts in about 10 seconds and that’s it.
    Don’t bother buying anything else really!

    daver27
    Free Member

    Wow, 6 months on and this is still an issue?

    daver27
    Free Member

    It helps to use a 6mm Allen key to hold the but, otherwise it can spin.

    daver27
    Free Member

    Was it there?

    daver27
    Free Member

    It’s in the tent outside their head office. The sale isn’t online

    daver27
    Free Member

    depending on where you are int eh country, tehre is an XL 2015 Process 153 in the Evans Warehouse clearance Tent sale at Gatwick..

    daver27
    Free Member

    just buy an alternate rear and run one on the front, then when worn out, stick the other on. bloody great as a front tyre.

    daver27
    Free Member

    2nd hand there’ll be no warranty, so it’ll be a full strip and rebuild, which is a right ball ache. kits are available and its a matter of following the steps. how long you had it? maybe contact the seller and ask if they have the receipt for the service

    daver27
    Free Member

    As mentioned above, even if they do go wrong, they are an awesome company to deal with. just send tehm back for repair, battery replacement etc if they ever need it and they usually come back with the latest specs!

    daver27
    Free Member

    Done

    daver27
    Free Member

    its marketing BS. it “doubles chain life” by effectively holding the chain on to the chainring once the ring is knackered and no longer capable of holding the chain on its own.

    no miraculous halving of the wear rate..

    daver27
    Free Member

    you could say that….

    daver27
    Free Member

    The specialized is ace, and as a bonus (its not the easiest info to find) you can alter the layback between 10 and 20mm by flipping the saddle cradle round.

    i’ve had a few on my own bikes and most of my mates have them and they have all been faultless over many years use. the best dropper out there in my opinion.

    oh and DO NOT BUY AN XFUSION!

    daver27
    Free Member

    how thick is it exactly?

    daver27
    Free Member

    delete

    daver27
    Free Member

    i’ve got a lovely barely used 2015 Genesis Volare 20 for sale if you are interested in keeping the Genesis loyalty going!

    Echoing what others have said, a road bike is a wonderful thing in its element, a gravel/adventure/crossover bike is a jack of all trades, master of none.

    daver27
    Free Member

    It’s the same crankset for the twin and single ring setup. Don’t panic

    daver27
    Free Member

    you basically have to take the fork and BB out, route it in the top tube, fish it back out through the head tube/toptube junction, then thread it down the down tube, out into the BB shell and up the seat tube.

    worth doing if the reverb was utterly reliable. which it really isn’t!

    daver27
    Free Member

    It can be done with a LOT of effort.

    have a word with Andybobbill

    daver27
    Free Member

    spray some lube in, wiggle them around and lever them off, as said above, they should just slip off. might be the return springs jamming things up, so try punching them out the spring location holes.

    daver27
    Free Member

    Ran my Works for a LONG time, Durability is just as good as any decent sealed bearing headset, i.e they last if you look after them. neglect it and the best sealed headsets won’t last.
    They are exactly the same as a normal headset, just angled. whereas the Cane Creak has more components that could potentially introduce more areas for wear.

    Works components all the way.

    only advantage to a Cane Creak is if you are unsure on the angle you want, its easier to change the angle.

    daver27
    Free Member

    Good results from the Works components one too and as its a fixed rather than adjustable angle headset like the Angleset, you don’t get the “cane creak, Creak” they are renowned for.

    and the works are British made if that floats your boat. and cheaper.

    daver27
    Free Member

    hang on, he grabbed your 8 year old and tried to shake him and you didn’t even swear?
    f…! i’d have torn him a new one. guy needs locking up.

    daver27
    Free Member

    it is literally the same tyre, just a different name. and yes, still just as gigantic.

    daver27
    Free Member

    exactly that ^

    daver27
    Free Member

    i know i put up a sarcy comment about Shimano earlier, but i have also run Sram X01 and X1, both had the same issue on 142 dropouts. it was cured with a massive dose of B-tension (maximum) and careful chain length adjustment and even then it only JUST cleared (we are talking 1/2mm).

    To me it seems that on some bikes, the maximum B-tension setting on SRAM mechs is where they should START.

    daver27
    Free Member

    starting to wonder if I should have gone Shimano.

    yes, yes you should have. :lol:

    daver27
    Free Member

    They turned a bike that was a bit sketchy to ride into a total hooligan. happy to tackle some much more challenging terrain now. and despite the minimal weight, they roll really really well.

    if they fit your frame get them, utterly brilliant

    daver27
    Free Member

    i got some from CRC a week or 2 back, bloody great tyres, makes my crosser a whole heap of fun!

    daver27
    Free Member

    I think i read on here somewhere (so could be a load of rubbish) that they replace them because it is more economical than repairing them!

    daver27
    Free Member

    Tried exactly that as an experiment, it doesn’t work for the reason given by Rorschach

    daver27
    Free Member

    definitely a claim with Parcelforce. Paypal will protect the buyer.

Viewing 40 posts - 561 through 600 (of 1,076 total)