Had the same on my last one, ended up a warranty job

They might give you a 2015 rear end which is redesigned around the vertical brace bar and a fair bit stronger.
awesome frames by the way

Been using Fox Launch Enduro guards on knees and arms for well over a year, never move, never even know they are there really, just like wearing a knee warmer. Faultless.

Arm
Knee

at least 5 of my riding group also use them with zero issues as well for at least as long.

If it is, just down the road from me!

I have exactly the same, a spare float factory ctd kashima shock in the right size. Hence I’m looking at the frame without the shock.

Cool, thanks for the input. Which shocks are you running?

I think the kili has avoided the blight of the bushes that the aeriel had.
One of my riding buddies has one, lovely thing to look at and ride

What did you guys ride before?

simply, Yes. modern 160mm bikes are just as easy to pedal as most trail bikes and capable of a whole lot more should you go somewhere that requires more travel (alps etc)

Do it.

if chainline is out, even a tiny amount of grit can make a right old racket.

it can look spot on, but it won’t be.

i found 1 x 10 was worse than 1 x 11, especially in the lower (larger) 3 sprockets

I’ve always found them to be quieter.

The only time i got noise was when my chainline was out a mm or so. is it in the largest 2-3 cassette sprockets when the noises start? if so, the chainline is probably too far out and you’ll need to space the ring in a mm. 4 washers under the crank tabs will sort that.

Depends what you want to tackle. The 40c nanos almost make the bike into a drop bar rigid 29er with questionable brakes. Good fun and opens up a bit more terrain.

Wtb nano 40c on mine. Turns it into a really capable off roader without too big a penalty on the road. Bikes a right laugh now.

They are all massively unreliable, apart from the command post. some people hate the 2 fixed position thing (somewhat mitigated with the new IRCC version) but i find its nigh on perfect. i only ever put the saddle all the way down or all the way up even with infinite travel

WTB i25’s on mine for the last year, still straight, dent and ding free and about the same weight/width as flow EXs but half the price. wouldn’t go back to Stans as they are very easy to dent/flatspot.

if it helps, the best chain i’ve found for noise, wear and staying on is the SRAM PC1091 on my 1×11 XTR setup. XTR was noisy but stayed on and KMC was utterly rubbish and wore out in double quick time

Another plus for Rudy’s with the RX, bought mine from extreme eyewear, much cheaper than direct glazed lenses and you can swap the insert between different glasses if you want different lenses rather than being stuck with one set. And another thumbs up for the impact x clear photochromics, dark to crystal clear, use them year round from summer to night riding. Perfect!

give it till at least a week back before chasing, postage and couriers etc over christmas are always massively backlogged, especially for smaller companies whos packages are nearly always de-prioritised over Amazon etc.

the trick is, never do any mail order returns until after the Christmas period

and Euans2 is also on point, hardly anyone where i work today.

Buy from Evans and you’ll also get a 20quid gift voucher tonuse by the end of the January sales at the moment…

No they don’t.

to be fair to the Vittorias, i think it was my crappy wheels at the time!

only issues i had with my vittoria were a loose fit, so i couldn’t run them much lower than 45psi or they’d pop off!

Whats your budget? i’ve gone to Hope with the direct mount and they are utterly magic.

i thought X0 and XX1 were nearly identical, so wouldn’t bother splashing more on that upgrade.
i’ve run turbines for a long time now and they have been utterly brilliant. Not as stiff as X0 but brilliant none the less.
X1’s are ok, but a bit meh. much more of an OE type item rather than a bit of bling.
I have heard stories of the alloy pedal inserts in X0 and XX1 separating so that put me off.
If it was me, i’d go RaceFace everytime out of that list. especially if they are the Cinch ones as you can then run them on other frames, 1x, 2x or 3x easily. makes them a better long term bet

It was in mine, however, it was noticeably easier to compress by pushing on the nose of the saddle compared to the rear, to the point it would grind when lowered if you were sat on the back of the saddle.

it didn’t last long, sent it back for a full refund and bought a Command Post.

Razorrazoo hit the nail on the head, WHATEVER dropper you fit, be it cable or hydraulic, you’ll need to drill out the stop.

Its a check valve in the damper, very common on the 36, had the same thing. send them back and it’ll get swapped out.

Key word cookeaa: ‘may’. I have no idea how much an xfusion costs to service so just offered up a suitable cheap new one.

I just saw on Stif cycles the KS Crux which is available in 27.2 and 100mm drop for £170..
i’d buy that over a repair that may cost close to that.

to repeat what others have said, ride it. leaving the wheels allows the sealant to pool in the bottom and not evenly coat the inside.
i never understand advice that says you should leave them for 24 hours before riding.

the K-edge stem cap mount is no good for the 1000 as it’ll stick out the back of the stem a foot, ready to be knee’d to death.

The barfly is ace. i have a few of them across bikes.

To be honest, unless you need mapping, buy a Garmin 25 if you are worried ab9out breaking the 1000, they are comparitively cheap, give you all the info you need and are bomb proof.

i’m lucky that i have the choice. fully versed in how different tyres work and whats what. I just choose to not take the risk of riding in the winter.

NO tyres grip on ice (one broken neck to show for that after hitting a frost hollow 15 years ago)
Bikes do not cope with salt, fact. granted they are better than they were, but one way to thoroughly wear a bike out quickly is to ride it on salty roads. If you want to keep it in nice condition, keep it off the road in winter (i appreciate thats not what the OP is asking btw)

Its personal choice more than anything for me, i am well aware you can ride all winter (and i used to) i just don’t see the point these days. And no, the triumph is not on track tyres etc, its road only and gets used to commute.

Rockhopper hit the nail on the head with his feedback. I have a 30 mile commute too and i would not want to do it in winter at all. its horrid.
You can throw all the money you want at kit to stay warm, but the fact is in winter, especially once the salt has gone down, bikes should be locked up in the garage and not allowed out until its dry and warm. Unless someone has made tyres that grip in the winter on our awful roads nowadays?

my Triumph has been tucked up since the beginning of November and won’t see the light of day till next year.

Same height 58cm Norco Threshold here, perfect. For sale if you are interested (shameless plug…)

Report it. Hitting someone and then leaving the scene like that is just callous…

and illegal..

Mine won’t return either, but i suspect thats because its at Fishers (again) and the post is slow..

Northwind, it was the one up.
Got 11 speed xtr now, way way way better

1. i found the 16t to be a terrible option, was noticeably worse at shifting onto and off of.
2. its to do with the shift window locations, both will work, one will be slightly smoother to shift onto
3. no.

for me, especially at this time of the year, i’d drop a front ring size instead if you are looking for lower gears and just wear it all out over the winter months with all the slop and muck, then in the spring buy all new 11 speed XT (or possibly SLX as thats got to go 11 speed early next year i bet.) its MUCH better than any expander.

get the 36’s if you can.

they take a bit of setting up and bedding in (volume spacers and damping tweaks) but once there, they track better than any other single crown fork i’ve ever used and once bedded in are as plush as anything else out there, depending on how you’ve got them setup.

only thing is volume spacers are hard to get from Mojo as they rarely seem to have stock.

Just bear in mind they also can have a rattle, this is a check valve and is replaceable under warranty (had mine done and been perfect ever since over 8 months of use) no big deal.