Philxx1975, send me an email, got an extra large one here. Too much info to put on here for you.

a mate of mine cured his with bearing retainer dripped in and bike left upside down overnight. no issues since.

i’ve had the same with Charge saddles, comfy as you like for ages, then they seem to just get progressively more uncomfortable.

Thanks for sharing. :lol:

I’ve thoroughly recommended the Boomslangs before and still maintain they are the best platform out there – feel wise.

However, i cannot stand by that recommendation anymore. the reason? bearings and spares. I had the outer bearing housing crack on one of my sets and Specialized do not carry spares. £110 pedals with no spares available, no thanks. I’ll be replacing mine with something well supported like Hope or Superstar.

aha so it is! initial prices i saw put it at £5k for the frame gearbox and hub..

nice to see its just “bloody expensive” and not beyond the realms of affordability at some point.

could not agree more. beautiful things

found that hard to follow, lots of waffle. and the reviewer is a mate of the owner.

even so, i do love the look of this thing, shame you need a mortgage to buy one..

just looks like the mech hanger has done its job and ripped off, £15 to £20 for a new one and bolt it on. easy.

Absolutely it can. I used to love wtb saddles when I was in my twenties. Then moved to Spoons and then Scoops, loved them, then they started to put pressure in other places as I get ever closer to 40. Just switched to ProLogo saddles and my bum is LOVING them..

They replace them under warranty as it is cheaper for them to do this than to pay the hour or so labour plus parts to rebuild. Simples.

I’ve done that, basically it tears the carcass of the tyre in several places but the rubber holds it together, Tyre is scrap.

ignore the comment about it just being rubber above, a tyre is a lot more than that!!

I went from Renthals to Ergon GE1s.

Hands down (no pun intended) the GE1s are the best grip ive ever used. however…

You need to make sure there is zero padding on the palms of your gloves as this makes them really uncomfortable. I always suffered with lock ons and the outer collar bruising my hand. the Ergons lack of this and the extra squidge on the edge makes them brilliant.

ask the store to chase and state its very urgent as a holiday is about to be ruined due to this, they’ll probably turn it around super quick.

its not so much how hot they are (which is a lot by the way) its how much sweat the pads hold, which is also A LOT. if you are happy with a sweat shower down your face everytime you move it on your head then go ahead.
I reserve mine for cold days in winter and use something better vented in the summer

Specialized Boomslang. End of debate.

i’ve had 4 or 5 now of varying sorts and only the latest one has proven to be reliable. As mentioned above, just use it, clean it and warranty it when it breaks. if it doesn’t, you got a good one!

Didn’t think the 46t was available till next month at least

the main reason for me was to stop ripping tyres off in corners. its cured that!

i’ve gone from an exo case Maxxis HR2 on the back to a Schwalbe Rock Razor thats a good 200g lighter and not had an issue other than porous sidewalls.

The other advantage of Procore is it makes the outer tyre more progressive so more flexible tyres don’t squirm as they deform as the pressure ramps up quicker. I think that was one of the original design goals over pinch protection etc

It was with Stans sealant admittedly, i’ve bought a new tube and fitted it with the Schwalbe blue dot fluid this time. I can’t imagine it makes any difference.

Also, the sealant migrates to the outer chamber filling holes on the valve and gets into the tube/valve assembly. this then blocks the top of the valve making it a pain to adjust pressures and deflate the tyre. literally took 10 minutes to empty the tyre to the point i could pop the bead seat.

to sum up, it offers game changing performance, but it is flawed and very very expensive (spare tubes are £25..). If you can deal with the quirks and the cost, it is totally worth it. If you want hassle free… maybe not.

and as a side note, also mentioned above, the tyre levers are absolutely ace!

i’ve been using Pro Core for a few months now, really really good, grip is amazing and there is a definite increase in control, especially off camber stuff and roots etc.
As per Neil above, i’m a bigish guy at 14st and 6’2″ and was terminally sick of blowing tubeless tyres off the rim through corners. I’ve never had that with pro core.
Never ridden a + bike though, but heard horror stories of paper thin sidewalls stopping you from being able to run the super low pressures needed to get any advantage from the system.
only issue with pro-core ive had is a blown inner tube as the sealant migrates to the inner tyre and glues it to the inner blue tyre and then it rips. time will tell if thats a one off, no response from Schwalbe though when i contacted them about it

Despite the media touting the new guide brakes as as good as shimano i have to disagree, they still have the same reliability issues acids always have and they are annoying to bleed.s been far too many that just fail. Last set failed as they didn’t have enough fluid in them from the factory. SRAM qc is utterly shocking.
Despite shimano having a few issues with the XTS, they are still the best in class

mine was a sticky rear piston, 3 times. it would stick on one side and jam at an angle in the caliper.

sacked them off for a new set of Formulas on a whim that i had lying around and never dared to use. could not be happier with those.

Would still never ever ever buy any brakes from SRAM/Avid though..

6’2″ and went from 175 (which i’d used for years) to 165. absolutely miles better and suits modern bikes a lot better. Shorter cranks are generally better on MTBs as the slacker seat angles compared to road bikes means your knee is a fair old way behind the pedal axle at the 3 o’clock position, 165 brings the axle back and allows you to make more use of your power without borking your knees and without smacking your pedals on the ground

As above, MTB or road? If you’ve fitted an MTB cassette onto a road freehub body there’s your problem, it will slide on further and jam. 11 speed shimano mtb cassettes don’t need a new freehub, they fit onto 10 speed ones.

I’m using these Vittoria

aside from looking utterly cool, they are very very grippy and roll very well. The casings are ace, so they seem to filter out some of the rougher bits of road round where i live.

Am i any faster? nope.

My Freerider Vxi Elements are ace, pedal pins punctured the sole and they bubbled up, but a bit of shoe glue fixed that and they soldier on. best flat pedal shoes i’ve ever used, and i’ve had a few sets…

keen on the Addidas ones though..

to counter the “its been great for 3 years plus” i am on my 6th in 4 years and that is playing up now as well after only a few rides. they are never lifted by the saddle which is touted as the main cause of failures, they are looked after properly, not abused, so i am at a loss. Everyone i ride with who has had one has had at LEAST 1 fail in the last few years, sometimes many more like myself.

The only reason i have that many is they come on the bikes i buy, i’d NEVER buy another one aftermarket. I will do my usual replacement this time though and get a Command Post.

lol, first time i’ve heard reliable and Reverb in the same sentence..

Check the rear mech, could well be the clutch if its a type 2 or 2.1 they are creaky

What groupset are you running?

that usually means there are too many spacers on the crank axle if its stiffening up, take it back to the shop and get them to rectify it if you are not sure what you are doing.
alternatively, take the driveside crank off, remove 1 of the spacers on the crank axle, refit and see if you can do it up till it hits the hard stop mentioned above and see if the BB is still tight. if it is, repeat and remove another. Basically you adjust the pressure on the BB with the spacers till there is no play and it spins freely. Its a good system that offers fine control over the chainline, but is not quite as simple as other systems out there.

just by the barb and strain relief, if you are not fussed by the connectamajig, you can cut it out the system. did exactly that with mine. takes about 10 mins all in.

Yes, similar to the Charge Knife but comfier and yes, durable enough for MTB. I’ve used mine on the road bike, but after much deliberation its not right for my backside.
If you want one in black cheap in great condition send me an email!

It’s the negative spring bleed holes blocking with grease and not bleeding the air back properly. Hold the front wheel down and Give the bars a sharp tug up and then slowly cycle through the travel and then recheck your sag.

6’2″, 13 stone. so reasonably big, but, a lot of this stuff has broken or been damaged before riding, thats my point. i am not breaking it through riding, it is purely rubbish QC, like the ISCG mounts not welded on properly, twice, forks having no oil in, knackered wheels, twice from the factory etc..
If it was me actually snapping and breaking and wearing out things through crashing etc then i could put up with it, but its not.

its not just me then!!

Sand doesn’t weld things on wrong though, and i rarely get to the point that things are worn out, brake pads are about it in that regard!

i didn’t say i don’t ride hard, i just feel that we are now at a point that the issues i have had really shouldn’t be happening anymore, the manufacturers of all components have had more than enough time to iron out “known problems”

wouldn’t ride an MTB without one nowadays, hardtail or otherwise.