My Hunt bearings have lasted fine over the past few years in all conditions.

Can you ask them about a new hub as it sounds like something really isn’t right? I’ve bought hubs from them in the past when I swapped frame/ fork “standards” so they may have stock. If you can build the wheel yourself or take to the LBS then that would be a quick turnaround. You shouldn’t have to necessarily do it that way but if you want a quick fix that could be a compromise?

I’ve done a few longer organised off road rides/ races and there always seems to be someone with a belt drive stopped by the side of the trail swearing at the belt as soon as it gets proper muddy

Remember midland trailquest Graham?

I remember a 12 hour race where I am sure I saw him (wearing vegan related kit?) do about 30m an hour as he kept having issues with the belt drive.

OP, I’d echo the later comments where a chain driven SS is the most sensible choice offroad. Why invite potential extra hassle and faff in what should be the simplest bike off road?

I always see a similar thing with SS KMC chains and a Park chain checker. Measuring links is better as I think the rollers wear or bed in a bit, but yes those chains do seem to stretch initially quite a lot (relatively speaking) and then settle down.

SSStu’s idea seems most likely

Annoyingly, there’s a bit of ‘rock’ in the dropout/frame interface – as in holding the rear brake and rocking the bike demonstrates a bit of play in the dropout/frame interface

Silly question but are you sure this is at the dropouts and not the pads moving in the calipers?

I’m in the pull off a freehub with everything already attached and push on another freehub with something different attached camp.

If you are feeling well posh then Boone are back

https://www.mtbr.com/threads/microspline-ss-cogs.1129875/page-4

Is the dropout raw Ti or treated/ painted/ anodized in any way, in the area where the dropouts meet the frame? Old or new frame?

There are big threads on the MTBR singlespeed section which may be of help as well

Brandon, Sorge, Jaxson

It is going to be a battle of who can do the most insane tricks now the lines are quite settled so it will be tough for Strait.

The one I think has put so much in to Rampage over a number of years and been hideously underscored and under appreciated is Tyler McCaul. I would love to see him get a good result.

^ yep that looks to be the only medium waterproof 7mesh going.

I should have rephrased the reproofing bit to say “constant” which is where I am with my current jacket. A bit of TLC is ok but not every two seconds

Not sure how it translates to the rigid fork length, but most XC hardtails with a ~506mm AC height 100mm suspension for are around 60mm. My steel rigid frame is 58mm BB drop (506mm AC height fork) as that mimicked my old Trek Procaliber. Make of that what you will! :)

^ That is the only medium 7mesh waterproof I had found too

^ Thanks. I had a quick check and they don’t have much. 7mesh look to be one of the many companies struggling for stock globally by the looks of it as I haven’t found much in stock anywhere.

Yep, there have only been a hundred ShakeDry recommendations :D

I get that it is a wonder material but I took a mental note of all my close encounters with brambles and other assorted vegetation in the past few rides and I don’t think it will last two seconds.

The Ronhill link is a bargain to be fair. I’d want to cut off the hood though rather than have a wonderfully waterproof rain collector behind your head. Under helmet hoods are just weird as well :)

Does anyone know a good source for 7mesh jackets in the UK? Aside from Sigma I haven’t found much and they don’t have stock of sizes I would be after

^ Got all that other stuff an agree with those points on layers and staying warm as the #1.

As in the OP “I just want a really good outer barrier to the wet”

I am really then looking at Outdry, Shakedry, Gore Tex Active or Paclite jackets that don’t have weird fit and maintain some kind of Winter visibility.

I’ve got some inspiration on other brands to try so that is great

Maybe it was a moisture differential (not temp like I wrote) that they said was needed for the breathability in that case? Which as you say goes totally out the window in rain :)

How breathable is outdry?

I don’t think there are numbers out there but allegedly “pretty good, but not as good as the top end Gore-Tex materials”

Norrona Trollveggan gore tex pro LITE

Looks interesting, thanks!

…those under arm vents are something I find really useful

I would normally look for pit zips too but I read something from Gore-Tex which says the reason you don’t see the zips on jackets with their materials is that the Gore-Tex needs some kind of differential between inside and outside (temp?) for the breathability to be effective. Basically if you used pit zips with Gore Tex it would make you feel good really quickly but ruin the breathability after that and never quite get comfortable

My hit list now is:

Something 7mesh when I can find UK stock
Outdry Reign (with everything else very hi-viz)
Gore C5 Trail
Whatever is the most waterproof Assos
Norrona Trollveggan gore tex pro LITE (maybe)
ShakeDry with everything else as fluoro and visible as possible

What Gore-Tex material is the Castelli Gavia made from?

Answering my own question having just received one- Gore Tex Active. Lovely jacket and lots of nice design touches but it seems to have been made for someone with narrow shoulders, no chest and a bit a of tummy… none of which are me :(

Castelli Gavia

What Gore-Tex material is it made from? The blurb says mid weight three layer which sounds like it should be Active/ Paclite type thing and properly waterproof but I can’t find much about it online and it seems to be discontinued.

outdry reign for the win.

I am not a fan of dark grey but if it is anything like the light weight one I tried with the silly massive hole in the back then I am sure cars give you a wide berth as they are afraid you have are visiting from another planet :D The look is a bit “specific”, but in fairness I’d rather just be dry :)

Rapha

Unless there is a gem I have missed I don’t think they do a guaranteed waterproof jacket aside from the ShakeDry ones. There is a Gore Tex Active jacket but it has a silly half zip, silly big chest pocket and flappy fit. The other are water “resistant” and if I am spending that money I want to go the full hog and be as dry as possible

Funnily enough…

Have just been looking at these. They are, frankly, silly money (£4-500).

But the current stuff is / are all ski jackets, at least as far as I can see.

So if they have pit zips they also have a permanent snow skirt and really high collar and permanent structured hood, so not ideal for biking. Same with Helly Hansen.

Likewise and similar thoughts!

NOT the Outdry Extreme Lightweight with the hole in the back

The Outdry Extreme Reign with pit zips instead. That.

Yeah the light one is pretty daft! The other one is on my list but all darker colours…

Gore C5 trail

Another good suggestion to try

Rapha did a EF education team replica jacket using shake dry.

I think it lost colour very quickly and was a bit of a disaster but I wouldn’t mind if someone can sort the ShakeDry lack of colour thing :)

you won’t go wrong with 7Mesh

That is exactly the type of thing I had missed, thanks!

Shakedry and a hi-viz gilet

That was another idea I had but I worried that anything on top will eventually damage the more fragile material. I am not too worried about ShakeDry offroad as I’ve seen it can be repaired but I was worried about something on top of it, if a bit of mud got in between the jacket and more visible thing on top or a gilet seam started rubbing it could be a quick end to an expensive jacket

Showers Pass?

Unless I’m mistaken all of their jackets rely on a coating and I can’t be doing with reproofing jackets. That is where I am currently at with my current jacket and want minimal maintenance/ less faff.

Shakedry with bits of yellow

To be honest that was the best I had come up with. I’m still not totally comfortable with a totally black body but I have already hunted out neon gloves and overshoes (sorry fashion police). I have Bontrager day running lights but wondered about helmet lights as well for when the giant MTB one isn’t on there.

Mudhugger will sort that

Oh, and as was recently pointed out to me; there shouldn’t be any gap at the top of the lever clamp. Top bolt done up first so there is no gap, then the lower bolt.

It may just be the picture but are you completely missing the pin which holds the lever on? Do you have a hole or a pin just above the yellow “7” as viewed from your pic?

Ah ha, why didn’t Magura just say they have levers with a different design! Assuming that stopper part is more robust on the hc3 @jsm?

Not the most interesting thread but a bit more information in case anyone finds themselves in the same boat with a two way Magura lever.

“The required force to break away this part is not very high. The lever blade is designed to return always to it´s initial position, even with the part broken away. Please note, a new purchased lever blade with this part will have a very similar behaviour.”

Or in other words, we won’t replace it because a new one would break at a random time too and they are satisfied the brake still functions safely without the stopping tab.

So:
a) Suck it up and live with a rattly lever
b) Try to work with the shop to get the brake exchanged or refunded. Exchanged sounds like the problem will keep coming back. Refunded might be tough if Magura claim it is still fit for purpose. I’d also still have one other brake I’d be stuck with.
c) Sell them on and buy Shimano. Every time I have deviated from Shimano I have been let down by other brands so this is sounding good.
d) Buy some Shimano levers and try the Shigura thing. Tempting

@maholo that sounds a bit different as the spring should return the lever back to the “neutral” position from moving either way. See my video above. You have probably damaged or dislodged the spring as well. At least I hope mine doesn’t start floating away from the bars downhill!

Interestingly the other thing Magura UK added was referring to the tab as a part for the manufacturing process and assembly lines which Magura Germany didn’t mention. A bit like the OP’s post above my first one. Seems pretty functional to me to stop the lever flopping around a rattling on bumps.

I won’t quote the email but it looked like a well used copy paste. I am getting the impression more and more that it is a part that would eventually break even without a crash so they are reluctant to replace anything.

I don’t expect anything further from the shop if that is the response from the UK representative and head office.

Same reply from Magura Uk. The brake still works so nothing to be done. I was explicit the brake is brand new and attached a copy of the receipt in all cases

Magura Germany have been the fastest to respond and that is the only reply so far. Partly impatience and partly wanting to understand the problem and scope of getting it replaced it was led me to contact them directly.

It will be interesting to see if the shop have any other outcome. I did email Magura UK but only got the address last night from here, so early days for their input :)

It would be interesting to see if your broken lever can pull away from the bars too.

Further info from Magura when I questioned if it is normal for the part to break off in the box or in the process of bleeding (does it deliberately have quite a low force it is designed to break off at) was just word for word repetition of the first message and if I’m not happy take it up with the shop as they are the only ones with a legal obligation to help. There are no small parts available either.

Technically true but I did find the wording a bit odd. Maybe something lost in translation a bit.

Do people who have said they are happy with their Magura brakes and find them solid also have levers that can move away from the bars? If I were to buy a new lever assembly can I realistically expect this to not happen again out of nowhere?

Or, do all of these levers eventually have this happen as about half the posters here seem to suggest and trying to fix it would be a massive waste of time?

The overall summary seems to be the lever moving away from the bars and a small stopper ripping off is normal and tough sh1t if you don’t agree.

Sooo… reply is in from Magura Germany. Seems like an email from a macro in their support system that they have had to send a lot of times before.

Short summary: That part is designed to brake away in a crash to protect the rest of the unit. Brake is fully functional if there is no other damage. Kind of what was worked out so far.

“Unfortunately, we cannot clarify the reasons that led to this cracked stopper. In any case, this does not represent a warranty defect or quality problem”.

Seems like a quality problem to me if it can happen in the box or if it happened during the LBS bleeding the brakes (unlikely as I trust them but I suppose possible).

I am not over the moon as the extra rattle without that stopper is really annoying. I am a bit precious about rattles and noise on the bike though. Not great that Magura aren’t interested but my cynical view is they probably know that part is fragile and will go again sooner or later. Hmmm…

The contact information is really helpful and exactly what I was after, thanks

The brakes do seem to work but the damaged one rattles which is annoying and since they are brand new I’d rather have brakes that don’t have bits of metal sheared off :)

Thanks for the suggestions

It is definitely broken rather than lost or rotated as the edge is sheared metal

The brakes are new, bought August. Yet to be ridden a only been to the LBS for the hose cut and flipping everything around.

Yes the stickers are removed as they look gaudy. Magura sell custom stickers so I am sure they won’t mind me undertaking that complex mechanical task :)

Interesting the OP also saw the same thing on brand new brakes. Has anyone else seen this?

This is the problem. The brake looks to work ok but it rattles around as a result and I’m not happy with this on a brand new brake.

The good lever has a small metal section which overhangs the black lever blade to stop it extending away from the bar

It is hard to see in a picture but the other lever has that section snapped off

Resurrecting this one as I have the same thing on brand new MT8 Pro brakes- one lever can extend away from the bar because a small metal tab looks to have broken off.

The brakes are brand new, just fitted and hoses cut at the LBS. I’d be very surprised if the LBS managed to do that damage.

I also don’t believe this part is designed to break away like the last post but some of the earlier posts about replacement parts are more encouraging.

Who is the best contact in the UK as I haven’t heard from Magura direct yet?

I have run a NGeco on my one and only MTB which has been faultless in 2+ years in all weathers/ been hosed down/ etc. The battery cover isn’t a worry or issue