Super easy. You may just want to double check the general mech setup (I think I just did a bit of micro-adjust) but you’d have to do that with a new mech anyway.

The Garbaruk and Ratio cages come as a complete set inner and outer so that is by far the cheapest solution. No mech needed.

These cages fit all SRAM AXS 12 speed mechs so I am not sure what SRAM are on about with a GX not fitting. They don’t seem to sell the outer cage though so that seems correct but doesn’t stop you buying an aftermarket one.

I went with the Ratio Components version in GX as they also include new jockey wheels in the price. Took less than a minute to fit.

SR52X Cage for Eagle Electronic

I make the volume of a 100 mm long shim as a fraction under 7 cc. Aluminium is 2.7 g/cc, so you’re talking about less than 20 grams for a shim. If you use a plastic one, you’re talking more like 10 grams. You can save a few grams by using a shim on a smaller post.

I take it back. 30.9 to 31.6 shims are indeed 10-20g

Yep, double check the delivery address. Winstanleys have always been really helpful when I’ve emailed with various questions and problems

Just before I hit the buy button after trashing my XX1 AXS rear mech

Before you hit buy… unless you need one of those new fangled direct mount mechs, maybe go for the GX mech and a Ratio or Garbaruk cage to be within 10g and save £200 (both XX1 and GX prices from BikeInn)

Yes, but XFusion and light weight dropper don’t go together anyway.

Bike Yoke Divine SL is 20g heavier 30.9 to 31.6.

A 30.9-31.6 shim is around 40g.

In the context of the light weight droppers suggested by the thread title getting the correct size can save a weight (if you care about such things).

what’s that beautiful thing @DanW?

One of the last Swarfs. Painted by Andrew Armour I believe. The paint inspiration was a Prova Ti with a faded anodization finish. Adrian made flippin great frames and it is such a blast to ride. Everything I always wanted in a bike but couldn’t find off the shelf.

Since we are doing pictures… 9.5kg of fun :)

You also might be able to shave a few grams by buying a 30.9 mm post and shimming it to 31.6 mm. Even if it doesn’t save any weight, it’ll still fit a bigger range of frames if you want to swap it to a new bike in the future.

Shims are surprisingly heavy and lowest weight is almost always the correct sized seatpost.

Extra bonus of the Bikeyoke Divine SL is the bit which goes in the frame can be easily swapped out for different diameter tubes if you ever change the frame

I also found with infinite adjustment posts I was constantly messing about trying to get it to the right height. I think a post with one or two set positions would suit me better

Mostly agree with this and I have found this more of a problem with longer drop seatposts. I think on the short drop KS Lev Ci I used, I did just use full drop or full extension and it really simplifies use of a dropper. With short, but a bit longer (100-125mm), dropper posts it is easy to find that “little bit of drop for most occasions” and “a bit more because sh.. that looks steep” setting :) I don’t find 125mm drop useful at all on an XC geo bike and never used that one at full drop.

The Fox Transfer SL only locks at the fully extended or fully dropper positions. On an XC bike I really value having a small drop most of the time I use it and a bit drop more in extreme cases. If you have quite a traditional geometry XC bike then you will find that even a few cm drop will feel like a ton of change and free up your body to move. Check out the gravel dropper reviews for the best comparison to a dropper on a XC geo bike- most feel a dropper isn’t required too much and a small drop is all you need. The Fox is also generally reviewed badly for the play and lack of reliability.

The three best light droppers for weight, ease of maintenance, smooth function and robustness are the KS Lev Ci, 9point8 Fall Line R and Bike Yoke Divine SL. All are available in a range of drops and sizes.

I have a 31.6 KS Lev Ci somewhere in the garage which I haven’t used since going full rigid SS. Only a small 75mm (?) drop but it really transforms the descending on the Procaliber I used it on. I was skeptical, but a like I said above, I really believe you don’t need a lot of drop on an XC geo bike and a few cm gives you that extra wiggle room in the oh sh.. moments

I didn’t even consider it a hack. If it was then it was at least a helpful one which let me download my order history.

This thread might help:
https://www.mtbr.com/threads/singlespeed-bikes-and-frames-fy22.1198687/

Most people won’t ride SS so putting the extra weight, cost and complexity of a sliding dropout on a frame “just in case” seems to have fallen out of favour.

The bikepacking trend seems to have reinvigorated more SS friendly frames but usually with lack lustre geo. I went custom as there was nothing on the market close to what I was after. Several years of rigid SS only and happy :)

If you don’t mind BB tensioning then finding a larger than BSA shell and fitting an eccentric BB opens up a lot more frame options.

Echo qwerty

52mm for me too, provided you have chainring, crank and heel clearance on the frame.

52mm is already lined up far closer to the smallest sprockets so I wouldn’t want to be pushing the chainline any more to the drive side. People say they notice no difference but ride a SS with perfect chainline then go back to 55mm and the largest sprockets and tell me it is smooth.

The plus 6-8mm Q-Factor on cranks is a definite no go for me too with sensitive knees. I couldn’t adjust cleats/ pedal axles/ etc to get comfortable with even the lowest Q-Factor 55mm chainline cranks. XT cranks are already wide as it is. Maybe you won’t notice.

If your current setup has the hub spaced correctly for Boost width hub then choosing 52 or 55mm chainline should work. Bikes like a Trek Top Fuel or Scott Spark have 148 Boost rear ends and 55mm chainline cranks

Embrace the rigid fork…this thread proves how adding complexity takes away from the pure simplicity of riding a singlespeed:)

I always go back to that thought having tried suspension :)

Xfusion forks with HRC damper have separate low and high speed compression.

MRP Ribbon SL

Some good other options to look in to thanks!

RS Pikes with the Charger 3 damper seem to have very separate HS and LS adjustments.

Does a Fox FIT4?

DVO?

Any other 100-120mm forks where the HS and LS can be independently adjusted?

Add some more rebound and compression damping then? I’ve got a 140mm 35’s on my Scandal which is singlespeed, works well enough, even if it is heavy. The damper inside isn’t a million miles away from the SID, they’re both basic motion control dampers.

That and just adjust your pedaling style. Brace your core/arms to keep your upper body steady so the suspension isn’t moving in the first place.

I’m well aware how to climb/ sprint out of the saddle. It is more of a case of trying to optimise a fork for the responsiveness climbing similar to a rigid fork and getting suspension benefits descending. The rigid part of the equation is as much about feel and fun as it is speed. In most off road cases a horrible feeling suspension fork is actually quicker climbing from the quick tests I’ve done.

The fork is a 100mm RS SID RL. With 25% sag and no volume spacers, compression damping fully open, I get 60-65mm travel on an average ride. A very active 60-65mm. The only remaining way to try and get more out of it is adjust the rebound, but if I add even a touch of rebound damping then the fork packs down and becomes really wooden and harsh in fast rocky terrain. I’ve taken it to TF Tuned and the answer was the SID of that year is just very progressive and there isn’t anything which can be done. It also has a really tall bottom out bumper in the bottom of the legs which means even with no air in, it takes a really hard hit to get even 90mm travel. It really is the worst of all worlds. Feels nice in the car park and ticks the “mid stroke support” box of a magazine test but not very versatile. I’ve got it the best I can for the descending part of the equation with TF’s help but would like to improve the low speed/ out of saddle/ pumping/ braking feel of a fork.

What forks/ dampers in the 100-120mm travel range offer a decent amount of separate high and low speed adjustments to try and get the set up I have in mind?

I have a Fox fork and just lock it out with the lever on the top of the fork stanchion

Locking out it a PITA on constantly changing singletrack which is where I am and what I ride. Biggest issue is I really dislike making the fork taller on a hardtail. Locking out both ends of a full sus is great but just locking the front for climbing isn’t nice for the higher bar height IMO.

My bouncy bike has a DT Swiss EXM 150, from a few years back, fitted. push down on a knob on the top of a leg and itlowers 25% and firms up considerably. Maybe you need something similar?

I wish more forks locked out at sag, not fully extended. I think Magura also did something like this in the past. Sadly no current forks lock out within the travel as far as I am aware. That would be perfect though. If someone knows of one please let me know :)

set the lockout and then adjust the blow off threshold, so it ignores pedaling input and gradual undulations but works fine over bumps.

On previous RS forks I’ve found this OK for emergency forgetting the lockout is on but not a substitute for a nicely performing fork descending. It will still be on the harsh side IMO. It may be total nonsense but I was also told by someone not to keep the lockout on in this way as the threshold blow off valve isn’t designed to be constantly used and there is a risk of damage. Could be bollo x

4th-6th May delivery listed on eBay

If you search Kalloy Uno on Amazon you’ll find the slightly heavier version for less money and next day delivery. Ignore the name on the item description- the giveaway will be the Uno text on the side.

These stems are the holy grail of budget weight weenie bikes and have been super popular for years. Extra bonus is the logos come off very easily with nail polish remover

Stem:

Search on ebay for “KALLOY UNO AL 7050 Ultra Lightweight Stem 1-1/8 in 31.8, 7 Degree Black”

Graphics come off very easily with nail polish remover, leaving a plain black finish and easily matched to whatever bars you settle on.

Buy some Ti bolts for £10 and you have a cheapish, robust, 76g stem

I was one of the many who used Mt Zoom kit for many years and always found them great to deal with and they are very competent racers (understatement!) so understand good kit.

I think over the pandemic they have had to look to other suppliers and my most recent bars were shocking. One side had the kind of thickness CF you would expect, and no joke, the other side was paper thin. This isn’t an exaggeration as my calipers were reading closer to 0 than 0.1mm. They went straight back. Another set snapped clean in two with a relatively minor slow speed crash, more like laying the bike down roughly. I also found the stem lacking as I could get it to twist on the steerer, on my SS when gurning up rocky climbs. Small bolts, low torque and thin stem material maybe?

Personally, I think other brands have moved on a lot with the kit they provide and the type of riding most people do on XC bikes has moved on a lot so the advantage Mt Zoom once had over similar kit on weight and price has kind of gone a bit now. Aside from the bars and stem, I have gotten on well with all the other bits. Seatposts are hard to beat.

Lyti (via dulight.fr) offer similar products. Kalloy Uno stems are hard to beat. Darimo do sub 100g 740mm wide bars for under £150 if you really want the lightest weight. Berg, Procraft, New Ultimate, even Tune are similar money and same weight or lighter bars. I’ve accepted some weight for (hopefully) peace of mind with boring ol’ Bontrager bars. Newman kit is also popular and generally light and good value. I’d also get the shape and size you need above choosing any particular brand.

I should also add that Mt Zoom always sorted out any issues and offer crash replacement on their kit I believe, so if you did go for them, then you would be well looked after

Very nice indeed and good to hear you are getting on well with it :)

Where did you order the nice white from (apologies if I missed it earlier)? Bike Inn have a yellow frame in stock which is far nicer than the stock UK colours…. I thought I was over the temptation… and pricing :D

What is wrong with the Scandal and what are you looking to achieve with a new bike?

Not all steel is the same. My 853 frame is 2500g so gives up 500g or less compared to Alu or Ti frames. I got it built with the geo and features I wanted for a fraction of Ti and there are very few nice alu frames around.

Spend a bit more on a high end carbon fork and you will have eaten in to that weight difference by a few 100g compared to a cheapy carbon fork (my Whisky fork is 615g cut).

So I’m left with buying a mtb and adding carbon forks which is what I’ve already got.

What is the problem with that?

I think people are struggling on this tread because it isn’t really clear what you want.

“Lightest” option is find a slackish carbon bike and buy a Travers Prong/ ENVE/ etc fork (browse the bikepacking site for a full list of forks with mounting threads).

Something like a BMC Twostroke plus nice rigid fork would be closeish maybe? Personally when looking at light, distance covering bikes I would be looking more “XC” than “Trail”- what is the point of a nice light bike if you have to have a super tall rigid fork and have the bars sky high to preserve geo?

Anyway, I went custom steel to have everything I want, perfect geo and a bling colour for the “cost” of around 500g compared to alu/ Ti I was looking at instead :)

@crossed

GX controller is identical to all the others

Rear mech is identical to X01 and XX1 besides the cages (material and weight) and a ti mounting bolt on XX1. GX with Garbaruk or Ratio cage is the same function and weight as X01 and 10g heavier than XX1

X01 and XX1 chains test as more efficient and significantly longer lasting than cheaper chains. X01 is 2/3 price of XX1 and a few g lighter as it is silver rather than coloured.

^ already ordered as part of my “budget” XX1 weight, AXS groupset

If anyone is sad enough to be a weight weenie like me and looking for the best value AXS, then my findings for an XX1 weight groupset at a fraction of the cost:

SRAM GX AXS upgrade kit from PBK or your friendly LBS (mine was happy to price match)

Garbaruk cassette. The easy choice for quality, value and lighter than 12 speed XX1 weight.

XO chain is 2/3 the price of XX1 and seems to be lighter compared to XX1 by a few g’s, only lacking an aesthetic colourful final coating and otherwise being the same.

Loads of chainrings drop some g’s and are cheaper than SRAM. I’m using Works Components for the best balance of quality, weight and value I have found.

Garbaruk/ Ratio Components both do cages for the GX AXS mech to drop a significant chunk of weight and are way cheaper than buying X01/ XX1.

SRAM X01/ XX1 cranks are a really solid, light option. There is usually some kind of variation on sale for around £200. I bought a version with undesirable graphics which must have put them in the sale, then just covered the arms with matte black vinyl.

Hard to get much lighter AXS without going in to HOPP diminishing returns and a fraction of the cost of XX1 :)

Early impressions is that the ergonomics on the standard shifter paddle is pretty poor. I’ll give it a few rides but probably swap for either the updated SRAM paddle or the AD Biking Quickshift paddle.

A bike for a decent amount of UK miles which isn’t mud friendly is a big no for me.

The YT Izzo Uncaged is just lack of availability of the correct shock length and making a “new model” with shocks they could get ahold of as far as I can tell.

Spec Epic Evo today still seemed decent albeit expensive still. Really underwhelming experience in the Specialized Concept Store, having to answer my own questions with a poke around, being told I was a definite medium despite my assurances I’d done my sums and I’m sure I’m a large… only to find the saddle didn’t raise high enough with the stock dropper for my saddle height and I was pretty bolt upright despite a 60mm stem :) OK, so can I order a Large Epic Evo in Raspberry please… erm no we don’t have any… they are available from the Specialized Concept store site… no, sorry we are a separate entity and can’t order anything in. I can see why given how the businesses are set up, but what a fail from Spec to make it difficult for shops to either get stock from a central warehouse or share stock between Specialized branded concept stores.

Contrast to the Trek shop who let me have a spin around the block on a 10k Top Fuel, knocked £2000 off the price of the cheapest carbon model, furnished me with as much coffee as I could handle, chatted jump spots and singletrack, and could access a stock of 30+ bikes in this model from the warehouse in Germany any time I like.

Do you have any links to the Pivot deals? I’m struggling to find much

The Intense looks like good value, but comparing my saddle position on a sagged HT to the slack STA on a sagged Sniper/ Sniper T it is going to be hard to get the saddle far enough forwards. The cable routing under the BB and towards the rotor would annoy me, as I’m sure gritty mud getting trapped in between the multitude of links would. Another close one, but not quite for me.

I’m off to see an Epic Evo today and try not talk myself out of it as it does seem the clear front runner for what I’m looking for :)

Mondraker F-Podium DC another possible for anyone else considering options. Looks like it should be a great ride, but so expensive! No Large on Pauls Cycles :(

Salsa Spearfish would be up for consideration if not for a SuperBoost rear end and a silly 55mm chainline limiting low Q-Factor cranks

Like a lot of bikes the Scalpel SE comes close but has a couple of weird let downs. I would have to be on an XL for the fit I want, which comes with a ginormous 52cm seat tube! That shouldn’t be the case at 175cm tall. I’m not massively keen on a long dropper but that is such a fail. My custom steel frame has me completely sold on pushing the LLS trend for all types of bike, not just big, heavy long travel bikes

In light of the above lack of inspiration I would like to propose a new bike category

DADCOUNTRY (MUMCOUNTRY also available)

DADCOUNTRY bike should have a slacker than 66 degree HTA, long wheelbase (long reach and longer rather than shorter chainstays) and a STA which doesn’t put you over the back wheel. There is no reason why good all around handling should restricted to heavy, sofa like long travel bikes.

A DADCOUNTRY bike should have enough suspension travel to flatter you when you are riding like a sack of spuds after a 60 hour week, but have a good enough pedaling platform and be light enough to make you feel like a hero in the rare week when the kids actually let you get some sleep.

A DADCOUNTRY bike should have no weird standards or sizes, be easy to maintain and work on because when the rare opportunity arises to ride there isn’t time to faff around in the garage.

With every penny earned going in to little darling’s whoknowswhat and the part of the house that house yet again leaked or failed, a DADCOUNTRY bike should be somewhat affordable and be a bike for a long time not just a good time.

It sounds simple. Maybe it is that inevitable “just a mountain bike” a lot of us search for. But why can’t the best of longer travel categories not be applied to short travel, light, sprinty, climby bikes?

The Spec Epic Evo is still the only one which is close to my DADCOUNTRY specs and I hope to take a look at one this week. Something like this would go down nicely… within budget… somehow :)

I was on the verge of going for a Trek Top Fuel 9.7 this week on sale at £3200 linky

Then I realised the frame is a whole 1kg heavier than an Epic Evo and it wouldn’t build very light even with very XC parts. Theeeen I discovered it has a stupid 55mm chainline. Why oh why is it so hard to build a simple straight forward frame nowadays. I have knee issues helped by a low q-factor on cranks and pedals and the heel to frame clearance is already too tight with the super wide Shimano cranks on. More grumbling ensues

Right then, a bit of a list so far…

ARC8 Evolve FS
BMC Fourstroke/ LT
Canyon Lux
Carbon Wasp Truffle
Evil Following
Fezzari Signal Peak
Ibis Exie
Intense Sniper T
Lapierre XRM
Nicolai Saturn 11
Nukeproof Reactor Carbon 290 ST
Orange Stage Evo factory.
Orbea Oiz
Revel Ranger
Rocky Mountain Element
Santa Cruz Blue
Santa Cruz Tallboy
Scott Spark
Specialized Epic Evo
Specialized Stumpjumper
Transistion Spur
Trek Top Fuel
Vitus Rapide
Yeti SB115
YT Izzo

I have an Epic Evo, it’s very capable (I did the Ardrock on it and it was great). The one downside is it does bob when climbing which isn’t ideal if doing a lot of xc racing.

Looking at the suspension/ linkage characteristics a bit more, I can completely believe it to be a bit bobby. The online reviews seem to gloss over that a bit. Also depends on the perspective of the reviewer and what they are used to as to how well a bike climbs or sprints. Hmmmm….

If you didn’t mind a hardtail

Whilst not my first choice, I would actually be open to a nice light HT frame for this bike.

The problem is there are even fewer options with XC slight, geo pushing HT frames, unless someone can name me a 1kg, under 66 degree HTA, long wheelbase, long reach, low stack hardtail frame for a 100mm fork (120 at most)?

Carbon Wasp Truffle looks promising . A touch heavier than I may go for but looks robust and a fun bike. I want a bike that is fun to sprint everywhere out of the saddle but also be good fun on longer more chilled days out.

What was the chainstay length on your steel SS bike?

Longer end of the spectrum for the ride feel I wanted.

445mm to the middle of the Paragon SS sliding dropouts.
Wheelbase is 1204mm in that position with a 100mm fork/ 66.5 degree HTA.
466mm reach/ 606mm stack/ 45mm stem (I am 175cm tall)
58mm BB drop with a 100mm fork to sit a touch higher than most XC HT frames and keep maneuverability

Think that is the main things :) Still very much an XC feeling bike to ride.

Testing a few different bikes in the process of getting my steel HT frame built, I came to the conclusion that trail/ enduro style geometry is more than fine for an XC racer style rider. It feels odd at first but there aren’t really any downsides.

I was won over by Adrian at Swarf that bikes are way too conservative with geometry. Companies have to sell different bikes to different people and people have preconceptions about what certain numbers mean for the ride without looking everything together.

My 66 degree HTA rigid SS, with a longer wheelbase than anything listed here so far (1200mm+), is twitchy as anything when needed because I have quite a forward weight distribution and low bar/ stack height, with a super short stem. The frame geo suggests one thing but it can be made to ride a certain way with the fit and rider position. Certainly a way better descender than my Procaliber but definitely a very XC riding feel despite what the numbers may suggest because of how I like to set it up.

A 100/ 100mm, XC race weight bike with a very efficient ride feel and Element style geometry would be awesome I reckon. But very niche. As I mentioned the ARC8 Evolve FS is heading in the right direction IMO

Fezzari Signal Peak and Orbea Oiz are other which have come up in my searches… will have to do more research :)

Too much bike and too little bike if the reviews are to be believed. Looking for that middle ground as I’ve never enjoyed too much travel but am looking for a little more forgiving ride compared to rigid SS

The ARC8 Evolve FS gives a good bench mark for weight and geometry I am after
https://www.arc8bicycles.com/bikes/mountain/evolve-fs

^ That is a fantastic looking bike

Can anyone tell me why the Spec Evo is a rubbish bike or tell me some tales of woe? :)