Mine to has a plate and six screws. My bone did not shatter it broke about in inch from the shoulder and tried to exit the skin so was pulled back into the correct position. I was off the bike for 6months and on a lot of pain killers. It still twinges four years later. Get well soon and don’t rush it, your bone is still broken and will be for a while. And with respects to recovery get some physio and do what they say and try to stay off the pies and booze if riding is your only excercise. Infact, try to eat as healthily as you can.

Highsided on a berm after slipping over the edge. Slammed onto my side. I have never been in so much pain, i thought I had broken my hip. In the end there was a massive bruise,a lot of swelling and a couple of ribs that hurt for a while. I was off the bike for three weeks. Thankfully I was wearing body armour this time and it was one of those daft ‘just one more run’ runs.

WTF!

what’s chainsnatch then?

No.

The ‘lockout’ on a VPP design is caused by the two bars rotating against each other in turn caused by blah blah blah, it works.

Fair enough. Debate is good and good VPP bike is a lovely thing to ride and own IMHO.

1. Don’t care
2. Ride the bike you want and not the one that you have been ‘told’ to ride
3. I’m with clubber on this one
4. Your just solving a problem by adding complication elsewhere but only if you perceive there to be a problem in the first place
5. Sprinting on a VPP bike is a joy and the suspension still works. So that’s a good thing
6. Heavy, really? No more so than anything else

What’s your beef with VPP?

Top end components are almost at the point of taking the piss when it comes to their cost. Many already are.

Buy the one you like and feel comfortable on.

I have one of those in my shed going spare. If you like I’ll check this evening. I guess about £20 posted?

Email me at dan dot enticknap at tiscali dot co dot uk

PS it’s a fox spring so I’ll get the ID for you as well.

A Norco of some description. It won’t break 😉

Series 1 slopestyle. There is one over on the Dirt website for sale at £600. A medium in black.

Here is mine:

It’s chuffing hard work, especially if you have just done Hellvelyn and Snowdon a few hours before.

Course with Jedi, Brian Lopes’ book, riding more, spending a fortune on my bike. Maybe not the last one.

The time difference between the two vids was a week. Same woods just different trails. Shame they are so short but it does mean you can practice them over and over again with very little walking back to the top penalties. I can spend hours there.

Reasons for what? Posting it… why not, or…the technical issue? Hopefully that is now resolved.

This should be better…

No issues with wind noise on my Contour, you just lower the gain on the microphone plus is has the added beneift of not making you lool like an utter knob if you mount it on your helmet which is where I imagine most would. Still, your money and your choice; they are probably just as good/bad as each other.

If they are as good as the Bos Stoy controlling the rear end of my bike they will be stunnng. They look very shiny indeed.

I do like intense frames. Mine will have to prized from my cold dead hands.

I run 1*9 with a 32 up front and an 11-32 cassette at the rear. I’ve been running this for a year now and only on a couple of occasions have I felt I needed something more. For my local rides it’s perfect.

Using M970 crank arms with a Blackspire downhill ring, e13 LG1 bash and guide with an X0 rear cassette and short cage mech. Works a treat especially now the crank arms have stopped creaking!

I think all the frames are baked first before being sent out. Raw finish is superb. Well, I like mine.

DO NOT photograph the pretty ladies in the windows.

La Vie en Proost. I may have spelt that wrong, I wasn’t really paying much attention.

I went last night. Loads of fun. The only change I make is to keep my mobile phone in my jacket pocket rather than my backpack so it’s easier to get. I also let someone know when I have left, my route and the Wife a time as to when I should be back at the latest. Then she is allowed to worry.

+1

The only time I ever noticed flex on my tracer was landing jumps, badly. Even then it was only slight and never enough for me to worry about.

I think it looks fantastic and yar boo sucks to the heathens that don’t like the front end.

You would have to meet me as it’s pretty difficult to describe how to get there. Essex clay requires either Maxxis Swampthings supertacky up front or a maxxis wet scream supertacky up front if it’s really bad.

You can mail me at dan.enticknapREMOVEME@REMOVEMEtiscali.co.uk

For me I have to practice over and over again. I’ll start off slow and maybe break the trail I’m riding down into sections.

I’ve started riding downhill at weekend and trail riding during the week. This means that I have loads of time to get the downhill stuff right. I can quite easily spend 3hours just doing the same 2 runs over and over again. I’m by no means brilliant at it but I will get better.

Getting yourself on a skills course also comes highly recommended. My session with Jedi in May was brilliant.

Congratulations.

Ardent 2.25s are large. Bigger than a Minion DHF 2.35. Just.

What he said. And use proper hammer and don’t forget to use the North South East West method either.

I agree they behave the same as but as I stated the method or execution is different IMHO. OST and VPP are different but achieve pretty much the same result.

I’ll agree from the wiki link the end result is the same but the method is different.

Really..

Four-bar suspensions and the Horst link
The four-bar active suspension utilizes several linkage points to activate the shock. A Horst link suspension has one pivot behind the bottom bracket, one pivot mounted at the chain stay, in front of the rear wheel drop-out (this pivot being the venerated “Horst link”[1] ), and one at the top of the seat stay. Some examples of Horst link four-bar designs include the now-discontinued AMP B-5, the Specialized FSR and related bikes, Ellsworth, KHS, Titus, and Merida.
A four-bar, seat-stay pivot suspension is similar looking, having a pivot above the drop out instead of in front of the drop out (ie no Horst link and no patent problem). Having the pivot in front of the drop out (i.e. on the chain stay) allows the linkage components to affect the path of the rear axle, thereby allowing for a more complex arc of the axle path. Placing the pivot on the seat stay (above the drop out) makes the rear axle travel path like that of a single-pivot bike, since the chain stay is the only component that affects the rear axle’s arc.
Seat-stay four-link pivot bikes perform exactly like similarly placed monopivots under acceleration and chain forces, which means they aren’t as neutral under acceleration as Horst-link, four-bar bikes, dw-link, or Split Pivot bikes. However, when brakes are mounted on the seat stays, dw-link, Split Pivot and FSR four-link bikes have an advantage while braking over rough ground.[4] One manufacturer well known for their long-time use of the seat-stay pivot four-bar link suspension is Kona, who incorporate the design on their entire line-up, along with other manufacturers such as Infiza and Icon.

Sorry. Still not convinced. An orange 5 is single pivot and a Saracen Ariel is single pivot albeit with a linkage design to attach the rear to the shock. The Transition is a 4 bar design but does not use the Horst link as the rear pivot point is on the seat stay.

So the pivot just above the rear axle, what’s that there for then?

Since when have Coverts been single pivot?

http://www.transitionbikes.com/Bikes_Covert.cfm