The use of the phrase ‘standard borrowing terms apply’ implies that if you break it, you mend it.

OMG! There is a rude word censor here these days.

Think of the children!

The new burgtec 4s with Ti axles are nice and light and very well made. They also cost **** fortune! Vaults or Superstar I reckon. Vault bearings are pants though but they are easy enough to work on which is a bonus.

3k for the frame mate. Can throw in ‘extras’.

3k for complete bike. No. It cost way more than that. Forks were 1.9k!

Frames are 3.8k new.

http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1842306/

Mmmm… Ohlins.

Well done Sir for taking notice and realising the error of your ways.

Do you want to buy it?

Complete nonsense. 200mm is where it’s at these days!

Or you can buy the frame… It’s the black and yellow one.

You can buy my very fancy-pants 2015 carbon demo 8 for 5k complete with BOS FRVs and not that heavy at 35 and bit lbs.

Just saying.

The interview in dirt explained a fair bit of her situation. I hope she does well.

Same thing happens on my xt 40t cassette. I’m using a xtr rear mech and the previous gen xtr chainset running a single ring. I reckon much of my issue is the chain is at such an angle it rubs against the ethirteen chain guide (thick thin chain rings are great until your chain drops off) so pedalling backwards causes it to drop down a few cogs. In reality riding it I did not have any issues or find this to be a problem at all.

Ride your bike mate is my advice. It certainly shifts a damn site better than my 10speed set up ever did!

My 11 speed XT cassette needed ‘modifying’ to fit. The freewheel was in good condition. A little light sanding on the runners of the first set of sprockets was all that was needed.

Although you could ride Aston on a short travel HT I’m not sure why you would want to unless that was you only option.

Get a DH bike. Loads of fun, exactly as Deviant describes.

My suggestions:

Have a poo before you ride.
Ride more and get fitter.
Buy new bike.

Or

1*9
Lite weight tires
Change to carbon bars
Thomson post

Nothing happens. Your leg never gets near enough. And if it did, I reckon there would be more pressing issues to be worried about.

Works a treat all year round until it gets really, really mucky. Even then that’s only an issue with climbing which is boring, do I don’t care about that.

What’s the deal with Audis, they’re great? Mine has 19inch rims. I’d like to try one with 18inch rims to see which one is fastest, most comfortable etc. But on looks alone the bigger wheels look best! Going up hills I find a lower gear helps and I don’t have any issues in keeping up with Fords or Volvos or even those pesky BMWs. Out on the flat cornering and ‘making progress’is excellent but the downs require the use of the brakes to keep the speed in check. I’m not sure wheel size will really come into it. Surely you just get the one that you like and can afford?

Wrong thread?

My stations are fine. For what it is worth. On the flip side every pair of rock shox I have ever owned (and there have been a few) have in someway, sh!t themselves.

Jungle and Mad Elk will service Bos. Intervals are two years or so. I’ve been running Idlye Rare Airs’ for nearly two years now on the ‘big’ bike and they have (touch wood) been faultless. Devilles’ on the little bike, also brilliant. Just set them up as per the instructions TO THE LETTER and you will be fine.

PS. Agree about avid brakes.

Hmmm, that was the session I bought. Never used the fox forks, my friend has raced them though on his M9 and apparently they were superb. The frame is super quiet especially when you do all the bolts up. Running BOS on it now. I rode my freinds tues at the weekend, lovely bike; even more so when you look at the price. Incredible value. It would be on my list.

I use them all year round, all conditions front and rear. Brilliant tire.

My finger hovered over the buy button for a new nomad frame for quite a while but then I decided that the additional cost of forks, wheels and a stealth dropper was a price not worth paying. For the type of trail riding I do 26″ will do the job. Longer faster trails with more gnar a 27″ will do better but the in reality these trails have all been ridden before when 26″ was king.

Bike geometry is key as is personal preference. My frame made in 2009 has a 66.5 degree head angle, a 23.5″ top tube but with excellent reach as the seat tube is quite upright. A low 13.5inch bb and nice short chainstays. It goes down better than it goes up but it will go up most things well enough. It has cable routing for a dropper and for a front mech, if you want it, and iscg tabs. So other than bigger wheels there is nothing out there offering me anymore than I already have.

When it comes time to change it I’ll be going the direct sale route to either yt or commencal. Everything else is just too bloody expensive, even Orange. Alpine 160 does look good though!

4 intense frames so far with one being on the piss. Loved them all. My SS1 is still going strong after 5 years with no dents…! Not sure how I have managed that but then there are not that many rocks round these parts. It’s also good to see that after 5 years all the other manufacturers have started using a similar geo for their enduro frames.

They’re over kill for most downhill bikes.

D3. I think it has more exceeds safety this that and the others than the others and is MTB specific. Which I think makes a difference due to the nature of the crashes we might have. There was a ‘study’ carried out a while back as to why we need MTB specific lids and why we don’t just use MX lids.

Give up chips…?

Not possible.

Go on a course with Jedi. It’s as much about the mind as it is about riding ability but you won’t be coerced or hypnotised into doing 30ft gap jumps. Money well spent especially if you are hitting a wall or getting the fear.

Hope bearings and spokes fit so they are easy to get hold of and they are a doddle to work on. Mine are still going strong after a year and I used them all through the crappy winter. Tires are easy enough to get on and off and seal well also. No issues with the freehub either.

Having said all that no I do not think that that size will convert to qr.

A threesome.

Be careful how fast you have the rebound set. After setting up the bos forks on my dh bike to what I thought was a good setting I then followed the set up guide that bos suggested. This called for a much slower rebound and do you know what, they were right. You do not want a pogo stick.

Don’t get a longer stem as others have said you’ll just end up with too much weight over the front and your bike will handle like a barge.

Having said all that, it’s your bike so you can do what you like. If you take any advice spend a day on some familiar trails and the take the time to set up your suspension. Start for a base settings and record the changes you make. Go to each extreme setting (ride carefully though, no heroics) to see what the settings do so you have a solid understanding of what is happening.

I spent a day at porc yesterday setting up the rear shock on my bike. Good fun and time well spent.

It sounds like you cannot adjust your hsc on the fly. Hsc is generally there to sort out the big landings or the harsh square edge hits you might get. It helps to manage the high speed stuff I.e. how quickly your fork needs to move to cope with what it has just been ridden into or dropped onto and to help keep things nice and comfy for you and to not bottom out too harshly or indeed too often.

Your lsc will help with brake dive and bobbing at the front end for example when you are standing up and pedalling up a steep climb. It will also help with cornering or indeed not if adjusted poorly to suit you.

Find a piece if trail that you are familiar with that has some decent corners and braking zones and set the fork to the middle setting. If you get to much dive under braking you want more lsc. If you feel the fork does not give you enough support you can reduce the rebound compression and increase the lsc.

Make notes of the changes you make and only make small changes. But before you do any of this set the sag correctly!

Of course you could just go and ride the shit out of your bike and not worry about any of the above.

series 1 intense slopestyle. Does everything.

I’m 41, this is me.

I’ll hopefully be there riding the same stuff tonight.

I went in a course with Jedi. It changes everything. That and finding a great spot and a bunch of like minded folk who are willing to help and encourage and laugh at you when you are curled up in pain. That, believe it or not, also helps.

I started out in my ‘trail’ bike (okay a Intense Slopestyle 1) before getting a big bike. That also helps.

They’re awesome. Have a set on my trail bike and the 35mm version on the dh bike, I run wider bars on the dh bike.

When you buy a full facer do not mess about. Get the best one you can afford. I destroyed a tld d3 this week and those things are solid. I now have another. I also use a neck brace but that is up to you. I would not dh and or jump without it. Flats pedals are a worthy investment as are some decent shoes that will grip said pedals and also protect your feet. Look at how your bike is set up as well. The first thing Jedi did to my bike was alter the position of the brake levers.

And good to see so many intenses here. I love my SS1 and miss the M9 but prefer the session. A Flo Yellow M9 does get my vote for best looking bike ever though.

It’s very, very good.