In the second group. Close racing, but managed to dodge some poor weather approaching Cape Horn and now just north of the Falklands with STWanchor chasing me.
I’ve a 2015 Passat with a vibration between 1500 and 2000rpm when the engine was up to temp and under load and thanks to this thread I fixed it today. Heater pipes behind the dash going into the matrix were rubbing on a square edged piece of plastic they went under. Ended up wedging a piece of rubber in the gap.
I broke mine quite bad a couple of years ago. There was a couple of days between A&E and seeing the specialist. At first I didnt want it pinned but after a couple of days I wanted it done as I just wanted it to heal quicker. The specialist said he couldnt pin it as the break was too close to the joint and they’d have to remove the pins at a later date as it would be it weaker in the long term. It was in five bits and the doc said the empty space would just fill with new bone. I was able to use my arm to an extent after a few weeks and I was back on the bike (gently) after a month and a half. Made sure I followed the physio’s regime and I’ve been fine since. Looking at the x rays I couldn’t see how it would fix itself, but it did.
Both stories about leftover cockpit green and the use of leftover aluminium have been proven as untrue by the chief engineer who turned up in Australia a few years ago.
Just a little pull on the nose of the saddle whilst pressing the lever. Not too much of an issue as it’s to raise the saddle after technical/fast stuff is over and there’s pedalling to do. It won’t lower without weight on the saddle.
I’ve an RSP one. Bought it because it’s 27.2 and cheap – wanted to see what the fuss is about. So far so good. Sometimes need a helping hand to pop up from the lowest position. No play yet but the cable is very short so I’ve changed that which is easy and there are instructions. Decided I really like having a dropper so might look at the Thomson post in the future as I’m a bit of a tart and the RSP one with that rubber boot is ugly.
My boys have had about six Islabikes between them. When my eldest outgrew his Beinn 24 I decided to build him a ‘proper’ mountain bike. I bought a 14″ Scott women’s hardtail frame and built it up from there. Trying to keep it as light as possible on a budget. Fitted a slammed 40mm stem (upside down), and flat bars to keep the bars as low as possible. When he outgrows this I can move the parts across to a larger frame. Also much easier to change/replace parts as they break or wear out than with a lot of the Islabikes specific parts. Cheaper than a Craig 26 too.
Rolex every time. They are like having some savings but you get to wear the savings, enjoy the savings, but still have the savings.
On the VFM front, I’ve worn my stainless steel GMT Master II every day for twenty years. It was £2,200 then. I had it valued for insurance purposes before Christmas and it’s now worth £3,500.
Don’t know why you live Stoner but April 6th there’s an autojumble at Newbury. I bought everything to convert a softtop 90 to a station wagon there one year. Loads of people selling panels, trim etc.. Always worth a tip.
Just put a set of Boost alloys (235/85’s) on my Mum’s 90. Looks much better than the 205’s on SWB rims it had before.
I had some 265’s on my 110, but I’d go for 235’s now.
8 spokes and modulars are nice but you get alot of muck and spray up the side of the motor compared to std rims. I use 130 rims on my 80″ which look better than SWB rims but look the part.
My eldest son (10( is obsessed. He plays it on the Mac, PS3, iPhone and his Kindle Fire. Spends loads of time watching youtube tutorials too. We’ve had to limit the amount of time he can play.
I always struggled. When I started watching films etc. with subtitles my wife started nagging me and I went to the docs. I now have hearing aids. I still watch some stuff with subtitles though :|