I prefer my oros to the Jucys and SLX I’ve tried in the past.

Not massively familiar with Photoshop, but is it putting the text on as a bitmap rather than a vector component?

sand is a number of sand grains. One is a number. So one sand grain is still sand!

Sand is made up mostly of silica in the form of quartz with a general formula SiO2 as it forms in a tetrahedral arrangement whereby the oxygens are shared between 2 tetrahedra with a silicon atom in the middle. Therefore if you only have 1 silicon atom, and 2 oxygen atoms to make one SiO2 molecule you can’t make quartz, and therefore you can’t make sand.

Being alone

I had problems with some specialized saddle that had cut-outs, and went for a charge spoon. It’s a bit firm to start and needed about 30 miles to break in (or my arse to harden up!) but at the weekend I was the only one of our group not complaining of a sore behind or numb nuts.

Late breaking unspecified rodent news!!!

The picture in question can be found in a daily mail article discussing the apparent success of a rescue centre in fattening up a dormouse for its’ winter hibernation.

Whether you believe anything you read in the daily mail will determine whether you believe the unspecified rodent is in fact a dormouse.

I cannot believe I have used 30 minutes of my life investigating this.

I have also spelt believe wrongly 3 4 times in this reply (subsequently corrected with the spell checker in Chrome)

I’m not sure that’s a gerbil

My cavity is wet and I can’t do any more experiments today.

Edited to add:
I’m pretty sure it’s a dormouse. Gerbils don’t have furry tails and that thing in the picture doesn’t have claws like a gerbil.

A&E don’t prioritise!

I’ve gone into an A&E with what turned out to be pnumonia, and more recently with a very badly cut finger needing 5 stichs and a Mr Man plaster.

I can say that not being able to breath propely, coughing up disturbingly coloured fleghm and having an oxygen sturation below 85% gets you seen a damn sight quicker than blood oozing out of a digit.

An armadillo

An Aye-Aye

I think its 4mm you need.

Air hose might be the right diameter

Edited to add: That’s air hose for fish tanks….

?

I guess in the (unlikely) event you recieve any suprise backdoor action you’ll be pre-lubed

It says it stops you absorbing 25% of the fat you ingest, where do you think that fat is going to go? It won’t ooze out your ears, fat is heavy so will ooze out southwards…..

BigJohn – Member

Upgrade to XP and MS Office 93.

Why? Windows 7 runs at least as well as XP, and in some situations slightly better.

I’m running win 7 starter and the full Office 2005 on mine, and it’s absolutly fine.

The biggest thing I had problems with was a virus checker. Running Mcafee made the netbook run like a half dead slug on dope. Changing to Sophos improved things dramatically.

Use a web browser, with offline GMail cache?

+1

Linky

Download the HP universal print driver. It might not give you all the options for your printer, but should do the job.

The problem is (as I understand it) that the on board security key, that is hard coded into one of the chips isn’t secure any more. Each piece of software is signed with an encryption key which is checked with the hard coded key so that the software can run. Sony should have used a random number as part of the software encryption but they didn’t they used a number that was constant. Hackers were able to work out the value of the hard coded key by looking just 2 signed software files

Now the key is out in the open, anyone could, in theory use it to sign any piece of software they want to run on the PS3. This includes updated homebrew firmwares that circumvent any patches Sony put in place. There’s not much that Sony can actually do to fix the problem. They could re-do the hardware key in new consoles, but that wouldn’t stop the problem with existing units already sold which then wouldn’t be able to run new software relying on the new key.

It seems Sonys current solution is to start putting a serial number in each game box, much like on the PC that you have to put in before you can use the game. This could also mean an end to the 2nd hand games market for the PS3 too, as Sony don’t make any money from this it wouldn’t be difficult to lock a particular game serial key to a particular hardware id.

It is a real shame that it will ultimately affect the vast majority of law abiding system users, and certainly will have damaged the future of the PS3.

I just bought from Formula K24s on a recommendation (currently have K18s). Got them for £160 from CRC. Option of 160 F/R and 180 F/R. Merlin price is £164

If my maths is right, the “Merlin Accumulator (TM) Sale” gives you 10% off the Formula K24s, making them £148.49 but that is for 160 both ends.

Formula K24. There were some cheap ones direct from Formula, or Merlin have them relatively cheap for a set (approx £120-150)

Better than my old SLX, and good enough to stop a fat lad (me)

Bleeding isn’t as hard as people make out, and it uses the same nipples as Avid, so you can use that kit.

Recovering after a cardiac ablation procedure was interesting, massive chest pain, a burning sensation in my groin and the sensation of my heart trying to exit my chest cavity through my rib cage. Second to that was pneumonia, it tingled a bit when I coughed 🙂

They are different file formats, so unless you already have software on your computer to read/view the RW2 files, then you’re going to need to download something.

I would have thought the software that came with the camera should be able to read/view them, then you just need to save them out as jpeg.

Somehow it still manages to look tractor-like.

Defiantly just trying to get through 24 hours really. I don’t think I stand a chance of winning.

Besides it’s the taking part wot counts isn’t it? 🙂

Cheers for the advice so far

oro pads have a more tapered bottom than the R1 pads
I think you can use formula “The one” or “Mega” pads

If it helps, the lowest weight setting is listed as < 63Kg 90-115 psi for both +ve and -ve chambers.

The table of pressures for mine was stuck on the fork leg, I don’t think it’s in the manual.

Don’t forget to factor in your clothes/rucksack/water bladder etc when deciding what your weight is….

ernie_lynch – Member
The bioload will have very very little effect on the pH of the water.
Are you sure about that ? Intense activity by anaerobic bacteria (which you might expect under conditions of high bioload) will push up carbon dioxide levels – that will definitely affect the pH.

The majority of fish tanks do not have any anaerobic bacteria in them. You’d need a gravel layer approximately 6″ thick to provide enough surface area for nitrogen fixing bacteria to “filter” out the oxygen in the water. You’d need about half that depth of sand. Most people do not have that amount of substrate present.

Edited to add: Also, the vast majority of people who clean their tanks agitate their substrate when they clean off any debris from the surface, this has the affect of preventing any anaerobic bacteria to develop. Some people do get anaerobic bacteria in their substrate due to compression of the sand. This can result in Hydrogen sulphide build up, which when released will most likely kill the fish in the tank (and give an eggy smell to the water) through being toxic, and changing the pH of the water.

The only concern is that you don’t mention the pH of the tank – if you have high nitrates then that is normally associated with a low pH (due to high bioload).

The bioload will have very very little effect on the pH of the water. The pH of the water will be determined at its source, or whether you’ve put a buffer material in (e.g. pH buffer tabs, Coral sand, peat, almond leaves etc.)

The pH will determine what fish are most suitable for the tank, but pretty much every commonly available fish that is suitable for a 60L tank will cope with a range of pHs. (Dwarf Cichlids being the only ones off the top of my head that require an acidic pH)

You should always condition the water with something like tapsafe as it gets rid of stuff like chlorine that will harm the fish. Don’t spend loads though, the cheap stuff at pets at home does the same good as an expensive one containing all sorts of weird things.

Leaving a bucket of water airrating overnight will allow any CO2 dissolved to reach equilibria with the atmosphere, which is useful if you have a planted take to prevent CO2 spikes, but not needed otherwise. Just means you get lots of little bubbles for a while after you’ve added the water.

To the OP:
Before you start panicking about high nitrates, test your water that comes straight out of your tap. Some places have naturally high nitrates. I’ve lived in a place where the water is 50ppm out the tap, and successfully kept fish there. If you have high natural nitrates, it will limit the choice of fish, you can get stuff will reduce the amount, but it’s expensive.

Because marks on seat posts can rub off or get difficult to see, whereas finding the maximum extension on a loop of velcro is pretty easy to find 🙂

I’d never buy one, but the the idea is good. I’m looking at what I can pilfer from work tomorrow for a bodge

I’ve been through 2 sets of permanently stuck calipers from SLX brakes in about 6 months.

If they jam, there’s nothing you can do, apart from get a new caliper. I’ve replaced them with formula k24s and I’m liking them so far.

My first name is Dan, and I was born in 1980.
I was feeling very unimaginative….

I’ve done some homework and a lot if what you are saying there I’ve never seen mentioned before: about the carbon filter and ich especially

What he says is mostly accurate.

Here’s a good article on itch/whitespot

When fish get stressed, like when there’s an ammonia spike, their slime coat diminishes, and this allows the itch larva to get into the fish skin and transform into the whitespot parasite. Raising the temperature to about 30C will kill the free swimming larva.

As for the carbon filter, if you have a heavily planted tank, the filter will strip out fertilizer and some of the trace elements in the water, so it’s not advised to run a planted tank with carbon, but if your not adding fertilizer, and doing regular water changes, having the carbon filter in wont cause any problems.

I think you can just remove the black/grey filter sheet, leaving the other white and green bit in place. Personally I’d leave it in there.

If you have cherry barbs, they should really be kept in a group of at least 5 fish to stop them getting stressed.

Edited to add:

If you’re treating the tank with anti-itch stuff, you will need to remove the carbon filter.

Ride in a straight line, and not get scared.

When people spend a lot of money on something, it naturally becomes the dogs danglies, and anyone suggesting otherwise is committing high treason.

People will dispute a test if it makes it look like their choice isn’t the best. But as people say, different brakes feel differently. A friend of mine swears by his Hopes, what he calls modulation and feel, I call in need of a damn good bleed, whereas he hates the initial throw on my SLXs. It’s all swings and roundabouts in the end.

Seriously…can any fabric “actively” move moisture in a meaningfu/significant way?

If you use a pertex top, and get a bit hot, you can sometimes see where the fabric is in contact with the body (inside elbows etc) get damp and that dampness very rapidly spread across the surface of the fabric (which it’s designed to do) to speed up evaporation.

For £20 you can get a USB powered DVD drive that’s not much bigger than the dvd itself. It’s a bit of a faff mind….

What a lovely thought 🙂

Any idea what happens if you die in your flat with a loan gerbil or a tank full of fish? Am I going to be found minus a face or just a jellied rotting corpse dripping into the flat below

It does say in the article

Only 100 places are available, with an entry fee of £95 per person.

Hope this helps

When you release the air pressure, you’ll get a bit of oil coming out.

Edited to add:

From the TFTuned website

When I alter the negative air pressure in my air fork, there’s oil at the valve. How can I stop this?

The oil is lube from the air chamber which collects at the bottom of the fork during use. To prevent the oil weeping, simply tip the fork upside-down before checking/altering the negative air pressure.