The server is running at 5, so it should be ok.

That’s great, thanks for all the help

Thanks for your help.

If I use chkconfig –list | grep nameserv I get:

nameserv 0:off 1:off 2:off 3:on 4:off 5:on 6:off

However, the application that relies on nameserv fails to work. It only works if I then enter /sbin/service nameserv start in a terminal.

I’m now really confused 😕

Cheers, will have a look.

I don’t recall seeing anything on the white forks though (Which I installed)

I bought a set of Oros from the factory shop, and they did need a bleed before use. There shouldn’t be a massive amount of travel before the pads meet the rotor. Don’t forget about the adjuster dial on the inside of the lever which alters how far the pads sit away from the rotor, because of the nature of the master cylinder, I find “Closest in” has the little knob at the top on the front brake, and at the bottom for the rear brake. (I hope that makes sense!)

Formula K24s use the same bleed port as Avid Juicys so you should be able to get a bleed kit including some dot 4 or 5.1 reasonably cheap. If you follow the instructions, it’s really straight forward.

The pads that come with the brakes have been fine for Peak district slop, although they don’t last very long, mine went to the backing plate without any real change in feel. I changed them for Superstar Sintered pads, and they provide excellent braking, and last much longer than the OEM pads that came fitted.

If you’ve already got a powerline ethernet thing going on, could you add a wireless access point like this one?

http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=777_9&products_id=112465

fair play to you, producing a sample every 45 minutes for 10 hours a day.

Sadly it’s just one sample someone has sent to me (Fe/Mn polymer), and because of the costs of liquid helium these days, I need to take all the measurements on it in one sitting. I’m not normally this keen to do work, especially as it’s my first day back.

Fair enough. I’ve just rung them for you.

Cheers 🙂

I’ve tried to use their customer contact form on the website, but after clicking submit, I get a browser couldn’t connect message. I’ve tried with Chrome, Firefox and whatever the inbuilt KDE browser is (Konquerer?)

I couldn’t find an email address on their website.

Sadly I work in a lab with no mobile phone reception, and and a landline that won’t make external phone calls. I have to sit and watch some numbers on a temperature controller go to 5, then I have to put in a sample, press some buttons, fiddle with a couple of dials, then sit for 45 minutes watching a dial, and press buttons if it starts drifting from 0, discover I’ve not pressed some of the right buttons, twiddle some dials again, and repeat. This will probably go on until 8pm tonight, and I’ll be lucky if I can go out for a wee between now and then. By the time I leave the lab, Evans in Manchester will be shut.

As a result of all the above, I can’t call them and ask, so I thought, as I have a functioning internet connection here, and I was curious to find out if I could get my item returned. I could bring the broken bits into work tomorrow you see, and get it returned in the afternoon. However, I don’t much fancy brining in a knackered mud guard if there’s no point.

Sorry I wasn’t massively clear.

I have bought a mud guard in a bricks and mortar Evans Cycles shop. When I made the purchase I gave my address etc. for their system.

I don’t have the receipt for the guard, so wondered if their system keeps a log of all purchases against my name which I can use as “proof of purchase” for a warranty claim on the broken guard, as I don’t have the original receipt any more.

Possibly, but it’s still funny, and the OP is overreacting a tad.

This is mattress I bought

http://www.mattressnextday.co.uk/mattress/685/Amari-Memory-Pocket-Airflow

It’s pretty much the best 200 quid I have ever spent. I get some of the best nights sleep I’ve ever had on this thing, and really notice the reduced levels of comfort when I stay with friends and sleep on a “normal” sprung mattress.

avoid detergent.

Unfortunately, pure soap isn’t actually a very good cleaner, and the oils your body naturally produces and general worldly grease, in the case of eVent stop the actual membrane from doing its job* and being completely waterproof. In general these oils will also reduce the ability of the DWR coating to attach to the outer fabric.

The only way to clear off the oils your body produce is to use a detergent, and the residue this leaves behind can then be washed away with pure soap, hence the recommendation to do two washes before re-proofing.

*eVent is more breathable, because the the oleophobic “layer” is actually a coating within the expanded polymer matrix that makes up the waterproofing layer. If this gets contaminated by a buildup of oils, it will allow water to pass through the membrane, and so not be waterproof

Assuming the gear you’re waterproofing is a laminate (e.g. Goretex, Event etc.) then it will always be “waterproof” until the waterproofing layer, or seam tape is damaged in some way.

When you re-proof a jacket, what you’re trying to do is get water to bead off the outside to help make it more “breathable” so that the moisture your own body makes stands a fighting chance of getting out of the jacket. The “re-proofer” attempts to replace the Durable Water Repellant finish, and generally you need a source of gentle heat (hair dryer/cool tumble dry) to achieve the best results once you’ve applyed it. Applying more won’t help. Applying some to a dirty jacket won’t really work very well either, so make sure the jacket is clean (possibly with multiple washes, e.g. once with detergent, then once with pure soap/techwash) and detergent free before you apply the re-proofer

2.25 Maxxis advantages would fit the bill I think.

Very happy with the 2 pairs I use (on different bikes!) Pretty good in peak slop, and they’ve got good grip on rocks/roots etc. I’ve been through the side walls on Nobby nicks, Kenda Nevegals, and panaracer rampages, I’ve yet to even scuff the maxxis sidewalls yet.

Some compressed air systems can have refrigerant in them, or (very unlikely) oil mist from the pumping system. Normally there’s a filter in the way to stop it coming out of the nozzle. It’s possible that exposure to a particular refrigerant, or the oil mist could be classed as a cancer hazard, but the filter would normally deal with this.

For some reason, speedtest wants to use a London based server when I live near Manchester 😕

It works fine for me.
One thing I have noticed is that the flash itself isn’t very powerful, so the drop off after only a few meters is pretty bad.
Also, you could try upping the exposer control from the settings menu to see if that helps?

Assuming they aren’t faulty (stand them in water for a while and see if they get wet inside) the chances are it’s water running down your leg. Once water gets in, it struggles to get out.

Assuming they aren’t faulty (stand them in water for a while and see if they get wet inside) the chances are it’s water running down your leg. Once water gets in, it struggles to get out.

There does seem to be a lot of reports of hope hubs failing, which would put me off buying one.

Although they apparently have great customer service, I’d rather have a piece of kit that functions as it should, and doesn’t break.

Have you had a look at DTSwiss hubs, or even (dare I say it) Superstar?

I appreciate that I’m probably going to get flamed for criticizing Hope, as it seems that simply because they ‘re a British manufacturer, that charges slightly more than the competition, they deserve cult like reverence. But hey ho it’s just my thoughts on the matter, and I’m entitled to my opinion, regardless of how wrong you think it is

I did, so I know they’re right 🙂

I take a photo of the meters each time I read it, so I have a record.

It’s based on actual meter readings, and it’s one of those “Seems to good to be true” type things 😕

I’m not sure if it matters how many stickers there are on the rims, shirly you just need to align the tyre logo with the valve?

I’ve heard them called trip steps, and believe they originate from medieval castles.

Edit: Wikipedia thing on “Trick/Stumble steps”
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medieval_fortification#Stairs

Are these not the ones you want?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=7316

Stans sealant doesn’t state that it contains Ammonia, unless it’s added as part of the other 1% trace bits so there would be very little in the slop added to a tyre

Materials Saftey Data Sheet for Stans

Regardless, ammonia dissolved in water does not corrode aluminium unless you go to temperatures above 500 degrees Celsius, or it it has a high copper content (6061 Aluminium alloy commonly used in the bike industry has a low copper content), and even then, the corrosion only penetrates micrometers into the alloy.

(Disclaimer: This dredged from the depths of my mind from a 16 week of materials science course from 1998, my memory my be playing me up again)

Running 140mm revelations with a 50mm stem and I think it’s fun 🙂

2 dead dogs, one dead aunt and failed CPR on a random bloke who collapsed in front of me. Though this all happened Wednesday. Today has been relatively quite by comparison.

Breathability with regards to waterproofs is a complete marketing con.

A waterproof membrane acts as a semi-permeable barrier between the humid air inside the jacket and the air outside. For the jacket to “breath” you want to get rid of the humid air inside. Ideally you need a situation whereby the air on the outside of the jacket is less humid than the air inside, so the water vapor will move through the membrane, to try and achieve an equal amount of humidity either side. (Water will move from an area of high concentration to an area of low concentration) When it rains the air is pretty humid, so there’s little movement of water vapor from the inside, to the outside of the jacket, hence the jacket can’t breath very well.

The point of DWR is to try and keep liquid water off the surface of the jacket, and away from the membrane, as there will be much less (practically none) movement of water vapor across it if there’s a layer of liquid water on the other side.

If you wear a waterproof when it’s raining, you will get wet, whether it’s from the precipitation, or your own sweat.

I bought a dog off a blacksmith the other day.
When I got him home, he made a bolt for the door.

Did you hear about the magic tractor? It went down a hill and turned into a field.

What’s E.T. short for? He’s only got little legs.

Why did the baker have brown hands? Because he kneaded a poo.

I said to the butchers “I bet you can’t reach that meat on the top shelf” He said “I won’t take that bet, the steaks are too high”

Petrol doens’t ‘freeze’ like water does, it would go waxy I think, and it doesn’t do that at any temperature found on earth.

The only substance that won’t freeze in standard atmospheric conditions is helium.

For something to freeze, it undergoes a phase transition from liquid to solid. A wax is a solid.

Petrol will freeze around 210 Kelvin (Approx -60 Celcius)

Interestingly (for me anyway), the fuel gauge on my motorbike seems to operate with a fairly long delay, and if I brake hard I can “gain” half a tank of petrol for about 30 seconds

Nothing wrong with mine, the rear went a little sqewiffy after about 6 months, got it trued at the lbs and it’s been straight every since. (6 months later…)

whats a special road?

They’re roads with unusual restrictions.

For info. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special_road

I’m not fully understanding TandemJeremy properly, so my attempt at clarification (Having just been through a similiar choice – CBT “passed” Saturday!):

You’d want to be riding a minimum 125cc scooter or motorbike for that kind of commute (I’m not sure about the 3 wheeler thingy so I won’t mention anything about that)

If you need to do a CBT, which I think you do, you’ll have 2 options to ride wither a “twist and go”/”automatic” (also called a moped or scooter) or a clutch and geared bike. Regardless of which one you do, you can ride anything up to 125cc once you’ve got the certificate, although there’s little point in doing the automatic version if you’re planning on riding a clutch and geared bike.

Once you have your CBT you can legally ride anything up to and including 125CC on L plates but not on a motorway or special road.

Your CBT is valid for 2 years, and in that time you can opt to take a test. This test can be done in one of 3 ways:

[list][*]A light Motorcycle test – which limits your riding to something below 125cc (so basically a moped)[/*]
[*]An A1 licence – Which allows you to ride something between 120 and 125cc, so a “learner motorcycle”. After 2 years it automagically upgrades itself to a full licence to ride any size bike[/*]
[*]Direct Access – You have to take your test on a bike larger than 125cc but it allows you to ride anything immediately after passing.[/*][/list]

In terms of vehicles you might want to look at, if you decide to go the automatic route, then have a look at the Honda PCX. If you wanted clutch and gears, with the idea of a larger bike (or larger automatic) down the road then have a look at the Honda CBF125.

For the sake of a couple of quid, it definitely minimises the hassle in recovering funds..

When I bought a bike off someone who wanted me to use paypal gift, I offered to pay his end of the fees for using the full service. It gave me some protection in buying off him, and if he’d said no, I’d have walked away. It all worked out and the small extra cost to me was worth the piece of mind.

In the configuration for FFDShow, there should be an option “x264/AVC” which by default is disabled. You should be able to select a library (libAVCodec I think) that might enable you to play the files you’re interested in.

As mentioned above, FFDShow is out of date, and you should really be running a more recent version (for best results), included in the CCCP codec pack (or VLC)

Install this, should do the trick.

http://www.cccp-project.net/