I can’t tell the difference either but i prefer it, it reassures me as I’m told its better, lol.

Hi,

I was looking at posting a similar question. I’ve been running a Hans dampf 29×2. 35 on the front and a 2.25 nobby nic on the back as a tubeless setup.

Although I’ve been really impressed, the rear Tyre pacestar has worn so quickly and now I’ve slashed it at snowdon.

So after googling I was looking at the beaver or the bonty mud but I prefer a wider Tyre and I want a tubeless ready Tyre that weighs less than 700 grams.

I run a kinesis tripster decade and it will take a 1.5 inch Tyre but no more.

If you want a monster cross why not go for a titanium Fargo? That will take over a 2 inch + Tyre.

My friends in Ireland have a system in built. It has 2 buttons.

1 button puts out a fire in the chimney and the other one sends a gel down the chimney. He opens a hatch at the bottom and places a bucket underneath.

He cleans it once a month. He said the system only cost a couple of hundred quid. He said they are common in Ireland but I’ve never seen them over here.

Do an experian or equifax credit search on the business name. It will show you if they have debts etc, might show directors and company secretaries and a home address.

I’m a fraud investigator so I use them all the time but I have more access than the public records so I’m not sure what it will show you but its a good place to start.

You also need to speak to your credit card company asap and register an interest with them and take their advice.

Just to add another one. I run a kinesis tripster decade cx disc. Like the pro 6 but not as racey. Has in board rear disc so you can run racks and guards.

Its a do it all bike. Takes upto a 1.5 inch Tyre. You can run it with flat bars or drops or even add front suspension.

If you don’t care about weight you can go oven cheaper but I wouldn’t.
Good luck

I’m in the gravity dropper club too, well, I have one foot in it.

I want a dropper that works, isn’t too much heavier than a normal seatpost and doesn’t have to be sent off to be serviced. I want to be able to strip and clean it myself. As stated above, they get covered in mud and they don’t need to be complicated. They are also much cheaper.

I like my andy stand. Not quite as good as a proper stand but I can take it to rides or use it when washing my bike.

Just buy a cheap frame and forks and swop over. Sell your road frame to get some money back.

Now cx disc is popular cx canti frames are a lot cheaper. I broke even on my trade.

Good luck

It changed my friends life. They were resistant to try it but eventually tried it and what a difference. It manages all their problems and gives them the ability to cope with what life can throw at them.

Obviously there are different doses, start low or just take half a tablet and take it from there.

You will feel pretty crap for the 1st week but stick with it.

After a few months you will wonder how you ever managed without it and why you didn’t do it sooner.

Good luck

SS sintered Shimano xt pads. I’ve been using them for years. Great value, last ages, good performance, occasionally squeeky. If you don’t like them they replace them (I think) within 30 days or give you your money back (it they used to) but never needed to check.

Why does everyone seem to think civil servants earn a furtune? They obviously are not public workers and read the sun newspaper.

Sadly, the good days of good pay and pensions are long gone.

I am a benefits fraud investigator on less money than my age and I get pretty fed up of visiting people with better TVs, latest computers and fancy cars.

I think the real answer is having a life on benefits and having the time to ride a bike.

If you can’t beat them. ……..

If you are allowed to flog the old bits on eBay then you could subsidise that 25k quite a bit.

I know a sponsored rider and he is always being sent new shiny bits.

I have a marsh guard on my forks all year round, it stops crap getting in the seals and increases their performance and lifespan. They only weigh about 30 grams too. I wanted a mucky nuts but the marsh guard was going cheap.

I still get mud in my eyes but when forks cost well over 500 quid why would you not have a mudguard that costs less than a Tenner?

On my bike I think it actually looks pretty cool.

Have you looked at the new canyon range of disc road bikes and CX bikes?

This is 200 over your budget but in my opinion worth the extra money, its in the sale too in a choice of black, white or green.

http://www.fatbirds.co.uk/1174816/products/kinesis-crosslight-pro6-2013-cyclocross-bike—black.aspx

A lot of my friends wear neoprene socks. I have a pair that I use and I really like them.

I use Shimano MT90 and MT91 boots but in winter water still gets in over the top.

When its really cold the water gets in and doesn’t get out. When I take my boots off theres usually a small cup worth of water.

With the neoprene socks the water gets warm and keeps my feet warm.

If I ever go away and do 2 rides in 2 days I wear my merino wool socks on the first day and then my neoprene socks on the 2nd day as the foot is going into a damp shoe.

They are only about £15. try them, you might like them.

Salsa horsethief

im going to try and just ignore it and try and live an hour earlier. I’m on flexi time and ride to work. I probably won’t last a week but I will try.

Yes, I was there a few weeks ago and we all complained. Wonder what will happen Thursday night for the Halloween ride?

Love my bb7s, easy to set up, they do need to be tweeked from time to time but it’s so easy. They are easy to strip and clean. They have great stopping power too. Do you need any more power for commuting? Having gone from centre pull to bb7 discs, they feel awesome. Bring on the snow and ice with cx tyres!!!

I would only move to hydraulic drop brakes when levers are available at a reasonable price. I think the adapter looks terrible And messy and its expensive.

If you are racing, then it’s different.

The cheeky buggers charge extra if you want to allow tethering

From the camel back website.

RESERVOIR & TUBE CLEANING
The best way to care for your reservoir is to clean and dry it after every use, especially if you fill the reservoir with anything other than water. However, if a reservoir has not been cleaned after every use, and mold or discoloration develops:
Use hot water and a CamelBak Cleaning Tablet. (Or use 2 tablespoons of baking soda or bleach instead of CamelBak Cleaning Tab.) Mix the solution inside your reservoir and elevate the reservoir above the tube and Big Bite Valve. Pinch the bite valve, allowing the solution to flow into the drink tube and fill the bite valve.
Let the reservoir and cleaning solution sit in the reservoir and drink tube for about 30 minutes.
Wash the reservoir with hot water and mild soap. Be sure to completely rinse away the cleaning solution in the reservoir and drink tube before using again. You can also use CamelBak brushes from our Cleaning Kit to scrub your reservoir and drink tube. Brushes are the best way to ensure you are scrubbing all of the areas of the reservoir clean.
Once the reservoir is clean, be sure to air dry overnight so no moisture is trapped inside, which can cause mold to grow.
These steps will make your reservoir safe for use. If there are still spots left behind, these are permanent mold stains that may not be removable. However, your reservoir is still safe and usable after you’ve cleaned it.

Add a small spacer to the bb and put it back together. If it cures the wobble great, if it doesn’t, buy a shimano chainset.

Having cycled in all weather in my shimano mt90 and recently Mt91 I find they are awesome in wet weather, however, when it really poors down the water runs down my waterproof coat, down my waterproof trousers and just fills my boots.

Full mudguards do reduce the run off but you still get wet. Cant you leave a pair of shoes under your desk at work?

If money is tight make some diy ones out of an old inner tube!

Do you have a chain checker? I use fat spanner One as it was £4.99. It lets you know how much it has stretched. If you keep upto it, you can change the chain before it stretches and does any damage.

http://www.parker-international.co.uk/19252/BBB-BTL-51-ChainChecker.html?referrer=froogle&gclid=CIXQnPL9kboCFTLMtAodynEAcQ

Is it sucking on the underneath of the chainset? I.e your chain ring is not letting go?

Is it better in a bigger chain ring? As your granny is the smallest it usually wears the quickest on a mtb. if it does then change the granny cog and see what happens.

My advice is change your chain rings and cassette and buy a chain checker and put this downto eexperience and cut your losses.

Vw t5. If the caravelle is out of your budget buy a t5 and get someone to put windows in and buy some 2nd hand seats off eBay.

Brilliant van and as someone else has stated makes the best bike vehicle.

Are you running your tyres Tubeless or with tubes?

i rrun Tubeless so as above, Hans dampf front in winter, nobbly nic rear.
Nobbly nic front, racing Ralph when the weather gets better and if we get a summer full Ralph’s.

You can usually pick them up for a good price from bike discount.de

My only criticism would be that the rear tyres do wear quickly.

Have you got a nice lbs? Take a box of biscuits and some tea bags and ask them.

I take mine round and use the wall chart. It’s a lot more complicated that you think.

Rolling the flange in the chart etc.

You might be able to pick up some spokes cheap enough from them 2.

I build mine, get them pretty close and then my lbs finishes them off for £5.

I guess it all depends on how good and nice your lbs is.

Planet x dirty disco (might be available soon) or xls seem fantastic value but it doesn’t have eyelets for mudguards or panniers so no good for touring although there are adaptations you can use.

I have a kinesis tripster (do it all bike) which has been excellent but there’s also the kinesis pro 6 which is more cx racer but might be just over a grand

Hi,

Happened to me, the bolts are crap so now I always replace them just to make sure.

I had to drill mine out. good luck

Hi,

Happened to me, the bolts are crap so now I always replace them just to make sure.

I had to drill mine out. good luck

I’ve been using superstar brake pads for years with no problems. My last order went missing and they replaced it, no questions asked. Never had a problem with them.

Hope hoops on stans. Quality. Stay away from Easton on a mtb, you go through freehubs quicker than tyres.

Plus 1 for 29er hope hoops with stans flow for me. Lightweight, tubeless, a reasonable price. Seem to have taken everything I’ve thrown at them. Could have gone lighter but at £80 a rim plus rebuild I stayed safe.

Only down side i found is its almost impossible to use them with inner tubes, it forced me to go Tubeless and now I’m concerted I’d never go back.

A few friends run crests with not a lot of problems but I guess it depends on how light you are and what kind of riding your doing. They are incredibly lightweight. Lighter than my cyclocross disc wheels!

My advice would be a compact chainset, 34/50 but check the width of the spindal, my crank arms rubbed on the chainstays so swopped for an xt chainset 36/48. The cyclo cross chainsets are 36/46.

Road rear mechs only go upto a 28t cassette (officially) apart from the Sram apex I think which is why they use mtb mechs.

Off the top of my head a 9sp shimano xt rear mech works with 10speed shimano shifters but you need to check that.

I run a 10speed Sram xx mtb rear mech with Sram rival shifters.

I guess it depends how strong/fit you are and if you have any hills. I live on west Yorkshire and I need a 32 cassette.

Buy silver pipes and make them a feature. Tell her you saw it on a design show and its the latest craze. All the celebs are doing it.

What size width rim do you want? What width tyres are you running?