Road or MTB?

Are you sure the weight is 13.7kg (30lbs)? Seems a lot for a Tallboy.

Apparently so but it’s the aluminium model.

How has nobody mentioned the stem, sorry rudder?!?! What length is that, must be at least 120mm? If you need it that long the frame is way too small, I can’t imagine it will handle well either

Hahahaha, that’s my road stem. I’ve replaced it with a 60mm.

All done sort from sealing tires, installing star nut and dropper lever as I ordered the wrong clamp .

Weighs in at 13.7kg (with sealant), 200g lighter than the first carbon framed tallboy in the lineup and I’ve got much better running gear than that spec. Seat will take it 1-200g heavier.

I’ll do a proper photoshoot in the woods today or tomorrow.

Dropper installed and cables cut & routed. Unfortunately  ordered the wrong clamp so hopefully oneup will exchange. Cut steerer down with 20mm extra (bloody hope that’s enough).

Tried to fit tiresbut no luck. Bead seals fine but air/sealant around the valve. 2 layers of tape, no o-ring but the veil has a rubber, taperedt bung. Tape is really brittle.

Just need to degrease chain, bleed brakes and get a mechanic to insert the star nut.

To OP, it’s well worth learning how to check and service the linkage on your own frame (if you don’t already know how, of course!). It’s easy to do, although it needs some special tools, and as the bearings come free from Jungle, it will greatly reduce the cost of keeping the bike running in tip-top condition

I’ll definitely be doing this myself know I’ve found out how much I’m going to have to fork out (excuse the pun) for suspension servicing. Only take my bike to the workshop for wheel trueing.

did you have the link on the top side of the chainstay when you tried?

Now you say that, all done! HAHAHAHA

Gear indexed, very easy compared to road bikes and dropper cables routed.

Race Face Half Nelson.

I know this sounds silly, but the puncture wasn’t where the valve hole was, was it? I only ask because my new Hunt road wheels that arrived yesterday had exactly the same thing and it took me a good 10s to realise that it was to mark where you’d need to expand the hole to fit a valve / tube

Hahahaha, it’s the home for the valve…I’m an idiot .

you can normally snap a Sram chain link into place by holding the wheel in your hand and banging the crank sharply with your hand.

Tried with so much force  to no avail.

You need this:

https://www.evanscycles.com/birzman-chain-link-removing-tool-EV189395

Think my friend has this I might grab tonight.

No major changes. Chain is on and sized but can’t index the gears as I can’t snap the powerlock link by hand and don’t have tires on the bike let alone fluid in the brakes to stand over and snap into place. Annoyingly went to bleed the brakes; pads out, syringes full, etc… to find out the bakes use the old bleed system and not the edge system. Will next day the syringe and collecting the DHF/HRII tires tomorrow. Dropper so might get that on later. Brake cables cut to size.

– It’s a good idea to get into the habit of not clamping a frame by the top tube. As it happens, on that particular frame, you’ll probably be OK, but you’d be much better having it clamped by the seatpost. I keep a box of them in the workshop, so can slap one into a frame prior to build, so I don’t need to worry about scratching anything

– Unless you are really, really confident with your sizing, I wouldn’t cut down the steerer without sticking a few spacers in first (both above and below the stem). You can always trim it down a bit more after, but it’s much harder to glue it back together once you’ve cut it short… (obviously, you’ve probably already worked this out and just slapped it together for the photo!)

My Hunt wheels for the road bike turned up yesterday and I’m very happy with them, so I hope that yours will be just as good. Seem excellent kit for the money.

I’ve got no choice atm the moment as the post hasn’t arrived and I come from road biking and all my seatposts are super skinny 27.2mm. It’s aluminum and welds should be good 15x times the weight (I hope).

Not cutting anything yet as the stem hasn’t arrived and have no idea how tall it is. I’m going to leave 15mm of stack over the stem even if I run it slammed.

My wheels came with a puncture to the rear rim tape. Emailed Hunt and they go back to me in 3-4 hours, they’re sending out new rim tape.

I removed the air and it was easy to compress the shock. Where the outer and inner meet is where the overlap begins fully compressed and the vertical links are the overlap. Sram says one inner and outer link should be left on the chain in big to big rings. Before I cut, is this the right link to remove to keep 1 inner and 1 outer?

Rotors, calipers, rear mech installed (hi + lo dialed in), lines run (brakes still to cut and bleed). Lent my chain breaker out but mate came round and gave me his and 8mm spanner so I can cut the brake lines down. Day off today so will install chain, index gears and cut + bleed brakes.

Question: if I completely compress my rear shock the frame lengthens by 2cm. Should I strap the frame up before I size the chain?

Not or sure why the Logo is upside down then.

Only had them that way to show they didn’t fit on the IS mount and ask which mount adapter I needed. All fitted now.

Yes, proper dealer with the largest demo fleet – pedal and spoke.

I guess you don’t see many around as it’s short travel.

I have a TB2 CC and I absolutely love it. It’s a twitchy descender (steep headangle relative to other bikes) but it’s very agile on the twisty stuff and as good a climbing bike as I’ve ridden. You’ll have a ball with yours I’m sure 🙂

That’s why I chose the bike, steep head angle as I come from road racing and wanted something that blurred the lines between trail and XC. Left to my own devices I’ll probably ride XC but wanted something capable of doing more gravity orientated trails with my friends on the weekend.

<div class=”bbp-reply-author”>Blazin-saddles
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That’s the front brake you have lined up there I think!  You should need an IS to post mount adapter and you normally get them for the size rotor you need, so 160mm.

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Product code on the box says rear so hopefully it’s correct.

<div class=”bbp-reply-author”>Gotama
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You also need to remove the brake lever to thread the brake line through the gap in between the rear triangle and the seatpost so if you haven’t got the bits to do that then you might as well get them when you order you disc adaptor.

And put some helitape/equiv on that area inside the rear triangle a<span style=”font-size: 0.8rem;”>s the brake line can rub a fair bit.</span>

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That’s fine, rear brake line needs cutting anyway.

Thanks for the tip .

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Nice frame. Have you weighed it? Just curious

1. No. You’l still need to compress it. Maybe use a strap to hold it down

2. No. Itll always be full stanchion unless compressed. Use strap to hold down

Unfortunately I didn’t weigh it.

Having troubles mounting the rear caliper. Am I right in thinking my caliper is post mount and the rear mount is IS? Is this the right adapter and would I select the 180mm option as the caliper is 180mm spec although I’m using a 160mm rotor?

LINK

3. 73mm BB so no spacers!!!

Yes, turbo training is the dullest of the dull! If you’re looking to get fit I’d always recommend structured training over free riding around Zwift as this achieves very little. The neat thing with zwift is you can still be part of the virtual world and use one of their structured workouts. The resistance will change with the interval level instead of the inclines/declines in Zwift. I would build my own sweet spot, VO2 max and threshold workouts and ride them within zwift.

Daimo had a go on a supersix ultegra rim brake version today likes the feel of it, also like the look of the caad12 do you notice any difference in how they ride, tempted to try a disc version and wonder if the bigger tyre clearance would level out any difference in ride quality

I can only compare the CAAD12 to the top of the range supersix (hi modulus carbon) frame .To be honest, I couldn’t really tell the difference apart from really poor road surfaces where the carbon would dampen the shock.

CAAD12 (alu), SRAM Red (mechanical) and Reynolds Assault (when racing) = 7.3kg. Gets me up Pitch hill 20th out of 20,000+ attempts. Crushing super light carbon bikes on an aluminium is hilarious!

SRAM Red? Is the cage even long enough for a mountain bike cassette?

Can’t believe SRAM are that right. My SRAM Red groupset came with outers but that’s their highest road groupo .

Bloody tight! I had to borrow an automotive torque wrench to torque a crank arm power meter to 40 or 50nm. Seems over the top!

Going to open a can of worms here but considering I’ve made a poor choice for the BB, maybe I should have come here before choosing my groupset.

I definitely dont need the range/granny gears on the gx eagle cassette but I chose it because it comes with the 52mm chainline I need for my boost frame. I also like the direct shifting on SRAM like someone’s taking a sledgehammer to the back of your head so hope this is the same for their MTB groupsets.

Any alternatives? I got the groupo for £317 and I could only find the Shimano XT M800 in non boost. I’d have had to buy the boost crank arms separately and then the Shimano groupo is the same price as the SRAM with one less year and less range.

A mixture of sweet spot, V02 Max and threshold interval sessions on a turbo will get you to where you need to be. I was doing 3x turbo per week and 100k ride on the weekend. (If not racing). Got me to category 2 (road racing) and could put down 375w for 20 mins at 77kg. Holla at me if you want my turbo routines (all based on power zones).

Regarding SRAM GXP, they’re shite! They make the RaceFace cheese bearings look solid. Actually no, at least shite is useful as you can use it as fertiliser.

Ok, so what are my options if I want to keep it under £30?

Pretty sure it wasn’t dub as I remember that being a more expensive option on the website .

Awesome, literally everything answered, thanks .

180mm rotors up front and someone mentioned the 18 pike is 180 direct mount so ✓✓✓.

Will just buy the more expensive GXP BB over Shimano as can’t be doing with the hassle of adapters.

Looking at the tallboy page, they’re factory built 180/180 so will I need adapter at rear for 160 rotor?

FYI, steer clear of the lineline workstand, I have it and it sucks .

All depends what type of riding you do .The synapse and endurance are sportive/gran Fondo type bikes with slacker head angles and taller headtube. The super six is an agressive racer which shares geometry with the CAAD12 I use to race. If you’re looking at the supersix, also consider the CAAD12. I went from a supersix Hi Mod (£2,500 frame) to a CAAD12 (£700) and still made 2nd cat road racing. The CAAD12 is ally but with the £££ saving you can upgrade the groupset and my CAAD12 SRAM red actually weighs the same as my supersix hi Mod ultegra. Don’t believe the carbon hype, there’s plenty of cat 1 and 2 racers on ally bikes now they’re getting super light with the new manufacturing processes.

All depends what you want it for? I’ve akways seen the Roubaix as a top tier sportive type bike as I think the headtube angle is less agressive and longer than a race orientated bike. If you’re in the market for a Roubaix also check out the Cannondale synapse hi-mod.

Yes, the principle is, with all other things being equal, a longer offset means less trail and sharper steering. Shorter offset means greater trail and more high speed stability (although the difference may be so small most folks won’t notice).

Trail is very similar to sidecut radius on a pair of skis. Powder skis will have a 20+ meter sidecut which gives them greater stability at speed but takes more effort to initiate a turn whereas slalom skis will be around 15m, turn super easy but unstable at high speed .

I think I’ll stick with the Pike, it’s already in my possession, lighter and has a smaller trail which should suit the singletrack riding around here and sharpen up this big 29er .

Sweet, thanks for all the advice. Managed to find articles stating the 17 fox was 40g lighter than the 17 pike but the 18 got a 150g weight reduction so the pike must be 110g lighter.

I didn’t realise the fox had the 41mm offset and if I remember back to my trail research the other night, smaller mm = larger trail and ideally I’m after a small trail so the pike would be better suited?

Boost debonair

Non boost solo air 

I managed to nab a 2018 120mm pike for £485 from chain reaction!!!!!!! That includes my 10% British cycling discount .