Has this thread died?
I’ve just got my bikepacking bike finished, shame about the time of year but I’m still itching to get out!

My tent and all sleeping gear is in the bar bag. The seat bag is for food/cooking stuff. Anything that I need to hand will be in the side pockets of the pack on my back. Still need come decent bottles and cages for my water but that’s about it.
Bags are from Bikepack™[/url]. The bar bag is a large, the seat bag is a medium.
I’ll post more info on gear and weights when everything is packed for a trip away somewhere. :-)
There is a little more info here (Bike and Bivi).

The law on theft should be toughened tenfold…what gives someone the right to take an others property!
On the odd chance that a prolific thief gets caught and they own up to other thefts they’ve commited (TIC’s – Taken into considerations), it goes in their favour and they do less time?!? WTF! 8O

p.s. hope you get them back!

Job done, managed to separate it and get both bits on the line…It packs up with the inner and fly fixed together for quicker pitching.
mightymarmite – I tried to pitch it in the house when I first got it…It only has one pole though, so kept toppling over. I suppose I could tie weights to some of the guy lines in future. Cheers.

Cheers, It’s the first time I’ve used it and don’t want it going mouldy!

HaHa, Mike said you would be the one putting an offer in?…£2000 and it’s yours, I only want the rear mech off it! :-)

There are some people on here that should just take their bike to the LBS. Half of the jobs on here should be straight forward and not a chore at all! :roll:

anc – That’s all I need…some bargains to be had on there. I’ve spent too much on camping gear this month as it is! :-)
I take it you’ve heard that the ‘Bis is for sale…I’m a hardtail purist now, might even get a rigid 29er!

Oscillate – I take it you’re asking these questions so you can buy it mail order? If so, are you aware that Wiggle do free returns now? Subscribe to the newsletter to get an extra fiver off too!

Like you, they oscillate wildly! I’m 6ft1″ and of slim build. The small goretex Alp-X jacket fits me well but with the Alp-X zip off jacket I need a medium.
I’d try the small, but is it a 2012 jacket you’re looking at? I’m wondering if they’ve altered their sizing? I’ve always found Gore clothing to be on the large side. I can’t even get their arm and leg warmers small enough to fit me!?! I wonder if they plan on doing a kids range? :oops:

How much too long? There was a white spacer in the box with a RF chainset I recently bought, couldn’t work out what it was for and there was no mention of it in the instructions. I wonder if this extra spacer is the remedy your problem?
Nonk and Northwind – I’ve some old Deus crankarms that I’ve had for 3 or 4 years, they’ve been on multiple bikes, had a few sets of new chainrings on them, I put 10sp rings on them for a new bike and now they’re back to 9sp on my bikepacking bike. You can take them off with only a 8mm allen key, change the chainline and buy a full set of rings for less than a £100. Definitely one of the best bike purchases I’ve ever made, excellent!
+1 on their BB’s being made out of cheese though!

I think it may be a touch too small for you?

If it is the steel reinforcing you’re coming up against, you want nothing drilling through it! :roll:

I wouldn’t want to use them in winter…Keeping hands warm is hard enough without touching bare metal! Get yourself some proper mountain bike grips not some fixie, hipster s***. What’s wrong with ODI and the like?

Scant, the answer has already be posted by P20. :? You obviously have the standard diameter (sd). The large diameter (ld) is basically a 20mm hub shell which can take the sizes P20 has stated.

I always end up carrying quite a lot of gear. I got sick of it weighing too much too but realised I need most of what I carry. Anyway, I bought a wingnut pack, some folk love them and others hate them. The load is carried on the hips, it feels like you’re not carring as much weight as you are. Rough Ride Guide sells them and sorry for not answering the original question.

I’ve just sold a 100mm full sus, xc race bike because I just didn’t get on with it. I always felt battered riding it and hated technical descents on it. I thought this was because I’m used to bikes with 140-150mm travel. Anyway, just bought a hardtail for bikepacking with the money off the race bike…Its got a slightly long fork on (120) and I stuck a wide’ish tacky tyre on the front. I felt like I was flying, instant acceleration, the only time I really noticed I was on a hardtail was when I dropped off anything. Who knows I might start doing a few races/events again!
I’ll still be using my 140mm travel bike for big days out in the fells though. :wink:

You’ve cursed yourself now…in the next few weeks something will go catastrophically wrong with your bike! Something you definitely won’t be able to fix on the trail and will involve a long walk in the rain/cold! :lol:

Anyone looking for some bikepacking bags? Look here, s/h on Bike and Bivi.
Would have had them myself but already got some on order/different sizes.
The makers website is here[/url] (Bikepack.pl).

Thanks for all replies. I thought I could use it, just wanted to make sure.
I’ve just seen how much those conversion kits are! I think I’ll put the extra bits on Ebay.
Cheers.

I’m pretty sure it’s a HGV class 2 license you need. I’ve a mate who’s in the fire service, after he’d passed his test he came and asked me if I ever needed a driver for the odd day (My Dad has a roadworks/haulage company that uses 18t rigid tipper wagons).

Hope you get this sorted and good luck!

(edit- Craigxxl is right, it’s C, just checked my licence. Class 2 is the old classification!)

Hi,
Why the need for three sets of wheels?!? If you do manage to get everything packed up, you may be over the maximum weight limit anyway (usually 32kgs)? You should maybe post some of the wheels to your destination?
I took my bike to Spain in the New Year…Its packed weight was close to 30kgs with one set of wheels! That was with a spare set of tyres and tools though.

Here’s the link to the Shimano tech document.

You use them anywhere the outer is interrupted. I know some bike mechanics who don’t use them as they say they hold water in, personally I disagree, especially if you fill them with grease first.
And, yes you use the metal ferrule at the mech. I think Shimano say to use it on full sus’, where the cable moves more.

Like clubber said, I’d try a different saddle unless you are really happy with the one you’ve got.
I have a dropper seatpost that is in the frame as far as it will go, the saddle was originally too high…I think I ended up knocking 15-20mm off the height by changing, now it’s perfect.
I’ve always stayed clear of Specialized but it’s their Phenom saddle I’ve ended up with (you can get a free fitting for the different widths too). I’d always used Shimano pedals but I’m using the ATAC’s now and won’t ever change back!

In what way? You put the endcaps on as normal and the rubber shields fit onto them on the other side of the cable stop. This is only the case if you ‘haven’t’ got full length outers though.
Pop a bit of grease into the shield before pushing it on to keep any water out.

samcamsdad – Member

That almost brings a tear to my eye. Gutted!!

You just beat me to it, I was going to say the same.

Some folk are saying what is so special about it? Don’t look at it on its own, look at it as part of a bigger ride! Coniston, Torver, Broughton Moor, Stephenson Ground, Carter Ground, Brack Barrow to Seathwaite (also sanitised now), pint, crisps and a pickled egg in the Newfield Inn, up Walna Scar, down the other side and back to Coniston. There are lots of little add-ons and cheeky bits in between these places when you know the area. It all adds up to a quality ride! I actually like the challenge of riding up Walna Scar…wouldn’t want to do it now to ride down the “motorway” though!

I had a similar problem to this…It turned to to be the USB lead! You’ll probably have another cable lying around. An old phone cable or a PS3 controller lead is what I used.

Hey You Guys!!!

Like this? :lol:

I’m sure most walkers would rather walk on a rougher, narrow path instead of something you could drive a double-decker bus on too.

boxelder – But once it’s decided, it has to be done to certain standards, including minimum widths.

I agree to a certain extent but I think those minimum widths have more to do with the width of the machinery that’s doing the job. Bigger machinery…Quicker job and less man power.

Why is it wrong to resurface an eroded ancient right of way?

I don’t think there’s anything wrong with resurfacing, it’s just that some of this work seems like they’re replacing paths with roads.
I’m sure most walkers would rather walk on a rougher, narrow path instead of something you could drive a double-decker bus on too.

You do not need the rim strips. I don’t know why you think you do? The rim strips are better for converting other rims (Non Notubes) to tubeless. I just use the yellow tape (whether UST or non).
p.s. I was in Lanjaron and Bubion in the New Year…I was running normal tyres tubeless, I tore up the back one on the first day! I now use UST on the back (High Roller 2.35) and a normal tyre up front (Minion 2.35 DHF, not available in UST anyway). I haven’t had any problems with this setup.

I think we should all chip in for it…then get it crushed at the scrap yard and hope to never see another again! :-)

The main thing with wool is it will still keep you warm when wet. I don’t think any other material does that, does it? I won’t wear anything else as a base and/or insulating layer in winter.
I’m sure I’ve had some biking tops made out of crustacean shells. Can’t remember what the name for it was though?

On-one have some cheap merino stuff, no personal experience with their stuff mind.

Geetee1972 – You’re wrong, they’re Suntour. If you look closely in the top pic they have it written on them.

How do you know if someone driving a car is a cyclist or not? :lol:

cheers_drive – When you’ve asked for something fairly technical…Most recommendations here are fairly tame!!! I’d stick with the Bash if you’ve never done it before. It’ll have the best descents.

I’ve no experience with the Crest rim and hadn’t owned a hardtail in years. That’s why I’m asking for any advice/experience. I do ride and do usually know what works for me when it comes to 5″ or 6″ bikes.

cynic-al – I’m not going to rise to it. I came on here to ask about rims and get replies that have nothing to do with them!?! :roll:

Ha, I already have the Flow/CK wheels spare and the back one is quite beat-up. That’s why I was going to get them rebuilt, especially as I’ve been getting some extra money from some bike stuff I’ve been selling lately.