I didn’t know folk were still using tubes, how novel. 🙂

A Titec ‘Scoper’ is what you’re after.

The cheap one’s go soft or start to disintegrate. The high-density foam one’s last a lot longer.

Climbing trees you say?

Look on the bright side; at least you can count to 12…

Only just! My biggest problem is that I’ve been filmed a lot lately, so I’m always hearing my own voice played back.

I’ve got a strong northern accent, I mumble, I sound stupid.

Ha ha, I’ve suddenly had to start dealing with folk from outside my local area, so now feel the same way. 😀

Shame the Alpine XL only comes in white though.

+1!

Working fine here (Firefox, XP)…I did think it was a load of adverts, but then realised you have to scroll down as well as across. It’s worth following their Facebook page too (if you don’t already).

Are the pads black too? If so, they’re the organic ones which are dangerous in the wet. I changed to sintered and was much happier with them.

You might be able to get a S/H Sigma 10-20 for less than £250 if you look around. I bought a few primes for their optical quality…I’ve ended up only using them for video work, as I still like a zoom when on the side of a mountain or in a forest, where you can’t always take a few steps in the required direction. You could have the same problem if you’re taking images indoors.

EDIT: Sorry, just saw this “Can’t but(y?) s/h. It’s not my money.”

Have Mountain Laurel Designs got anything like what you want? If not, they do custom work too. There are a few other small American brands like this, I’m struggling to remember their names though.

EDIT: It seems to me that you might be as well using a mesh inner along with a tarp. Then you would have the option of using them separately in the right conditions. Ignore that…using the a mesh inner with its proper outer would be better than that, as it would be easier to set up.

The blokes name is Steve Barry…I’ve just googled him and it doesn’t seem like he’s been about for while though.

Would you want 160mm travel when riding round a trail centre, Yorkshire Dales or similar? Even 140mm is too much a lot of the time.
The back end on the original Mojo is nowhere near as stiff as the HD, the geometry is different and of course you haven’t the option of changing the travel. The latter being a handy option to have if your riding style changes or you go somewhere that’s lift assisted. I’d planned to buy a cheap set of Lyriks, longer shock and to use some heavier duty wheels I have, for that. Like I’ve also said, even with the HD set at 140, it’s not a heavy frame…it’s lighter than some alloy frames I’ve had with less travel. Don’t mention the SL-R though, it wasn’t available when I bought my HD (you can’t change the travel, but maybe I could have lived with that).

Like the Modo HD160/HD140 thing – go to all the hassle of changing the shock and linkage, and you have a bike that weighs the same and has the same geometry, but 20mm less travel. Why?

For a few reasons! One being wanting a strong frame with 140mm travel. The back end is a lot stiffer than the standard Mojo too. The frame isn’t heavy by any means either…when set at 160 the frame is very light for its capabilities. Also. anyone wanting one as their only bike would probably be better off with it set at 140. Depending on which travel option is used, the parts fitted will be to suit that preference. I wouldn’t ride mine set at 160 with the wheels and some of the other parts I have fitted, not anywhere that really requires 160mm anyway. 🙂

You could look at it from another angle and wonder why folk buy bikes like the Orange Blood and Cotic Rocket…heavy bikes for the given travel, but still popular choices.

I’ve had quite a few adjustable travel bikes (not on the go changeable mind), the funny thing is that I very rarely altered them and always used maximum travel.

One thing to watch out for is that if you plan to match the (adjustable) fork travel with what is set on the frame, the BB can end up being far too low. This is what stopped me from buying a Nicolai…matching the travel with a fork of similar travel is fine, wanting to use it with an adjustable travel fork isn’t because of the A-C height changing.

EDIT: Not sure if all that makes sense, but you might see what I mean. 🙂

4, whether matched pairs work better or not, an extra 4GB is what it is.

I only recommend the Rampage SC for smooth rock, nothing else. It doesn’t hook up in anything loose and is quite fragile too.

What frame is it?

Oh, an O. Contact Oakley direct and they’ll probably send you one.

A ‘Spot’ tracker would be your best bet. They can be picked up fairly cheaply if you order one from abroad (try euro ebay sites). I’m not sure what the yearly subscription charge is though.

EDIT: Ah, just saw that the basic subscription is 99 euros a year.

Make your own! 🙄
The one in this vid uses paint-on colouring…this will taste much nicer than coloured icing (especially black).

Cheers!

leave it, let you self recover fully

+1, a normal ride might not be so bad, but a race, no way!

Have you seen the Mavic Scree’s? Not a cheap option, but could be what you’re looking for if you prefer a boot. It’s a shame they don’t do the Alpine XL in black too.

I’d always used the Shimano AM51’s, but have got sick of them splitting behind the toebox. I liked them because of the mesh and lack of padding…if they did get wet, it meant they soon dried out.

This vid covers a lot:

Oh, I’d recommend that you buy a UV filter to protect your lens if you haven’t already. I use the Hoya Pro-1’s, which can be bought for less than £20 on Amazon.

+1 for ordering from CRC or Wiggle for free returns. I’ve found you usually need to go up half a size for Mavic and sometimes a full size for Shimano shoes…not sure on other brands.

That’s exactly what I am considering it, an experience. With some good singletrack included.

It will be exactly what you’re looking for then. I enjoyed it much more due to this, as I was taking everthing in…much more than interesting than being at ski-resort, in France or wherever. Of course, you do have to ride on dirt roads and whatnot to join everything up. That just gives you the chance to enjoy the views and take some photos though.

EDIT: Was it a typo about you having a 180mm fork?

No, but I’ve just looked at what stops them from moving. It’s only a plate that is riveted on top of them…I might be able to remove the rivets and replace with a couple of bolts. Cheers.

EDIT: And then I’ll just pray nothing comes loose. 😀

Could the shock rebound be too fast?

Gore Alp-X with the zip-off arms. End of thread.

Kenda Nevegal UST?

Have they started making their UST tyres out of rubber again? The last ones I had seemed to be made out of plastic! They were lethal!

I expect it to be very hot so I’m planning on packing light.

Do you realise a van carries all your stuff to each nights accommodation (and meets you halfway through the day for lunch)…when riding you only need what you’d need on a normal day ride.

I don’t think the problem is the wheel. It could be the centrelock adapter or the disc (especially if it has an alloy spider).
I had a very similar problem that turned out to be the disc moving…it only happened when rocking the bike back and forth too. See if your wheel still moves slightly when the brake is locked on.

Pah, I thought this was going to be about something else!

I would say you’ll need a new fork as well…you need something with a much longer headtube than that On-One. It would make much more of a difference than the BB height.

Goes for a swim to wash it off of course! 😆

It also happens when you have the wheel off and tighten the disk

Is that not where the problem lies then?

Nostoc – I think replacing them would help a lot. Mine are already the steel ones, but I can see where they have worn. I’ll try and track some down for a better price than in your link…some places are selling them for less than a couple of quid, but want a lot for postage.

They have made them lighter by making the springs smaller but they get ‘rattley’ after a year.

This would seem to be the case. What parts are you trying to get? I’m not sure if the wear is on the bars, springs or tension screws…maybe all of those?

Thanks for all the replies! I knew about the axle servicing etc. Just wasn’t sure about the rest of the pedal. I think there’s still plenty of life in the ones I’ve got anyway. 🙂