Cheaper are deore or LX hubs but they won’t last anywhere near as long in my experience.

LX and XT have the same seals, which IME as a wrench, dictates hub life.

go for lighter rims and spokes. Hub weight loss is no more beneficial than non-rotating parts.

321’s weigh 570gm, you can get down to 300 IIRC for stan’s. Go as light as you dare and get db spokes. Then spend as much on hubs as you want.

You could go tubeless to save more weight too.

I know you said no contis but have you tried ultra gator skins? A great little tyre.

Tried one – about right weight etc but it perished within months and delaminated shortly afterwards.

ton – easy when you know how to behave! And the tyre – thanks but too heavy.

Those bonty’s look close…I’d try teh spesh’s but the marketing blurb contains 2 outright lies so I can’t face it!

Our exclusive siped tread pattern finds traction in even wet conditions, and is combined with our motorcycle-inspired radius design that minimizes contact in straight lines, while maximizing contact surface and traction in corners.

GO Junkyard!

FWIW DM type trolls will generally not respond to rational argument (or probably understand it for that matter) so don’t take it all too personally.

if someone is willing to rob or do harm to you and yours then they deserve all they get, and if some robber gets stabbed then hey ho . they should have thought about that before they left the house

Sounds like you are not currently a defence laywer?

to be fair they were willing to harm him for stuff that wasnt theirs either

You know this do you? They may have acted purely in self defence.

Have you just made an ass of u and me?

well done son

Killing someone for atempted theft (of property that is not even your own)?

Hopefully not, though no doubt the usual armchair pro-violence, summary justice “eye for an eye” types will be along to celebrate…

Alu is cheaper to make lighter and stiffer, and cheaper/easier to machine up pivot mounts etc (which are lighter)

Doubt anything will get you properly well in 2 days…the above may help though, and time off work to recover.

BoardinBob – Member

If your life has been touched by a fat, thick, racist, then it’s really time we started thinning the herd…

Indeed, and ignorance such as yours gets you first place in the queue!

What you do won’t make much difference in a month so I wouldn’t worry too much. A few interval, some climbing stuff. Make sure you are well rested/hydrated and fed before the race.

If you are doing more races and wanting to do well then by all means start a proper training programme.

In either case watch out for over-training.

risers are a fashion thing and that is a fact.

Is that why they’ve been selling consistently for 15+years?

There’s usually visible damage if the frame is bent, compare it with a good one.

Think you need to chill out a bit TBH – you know Rob and he’s just having a laugh.

I holidayed at Magilligan many times

Had mine for 3 years, sold it, regret that.

Got a BNIB spare hanger if anyone needs one…

IME if you are riding hard you cannot re-hydrate during the ride – you need to drink after.

I think, generally, that there isn’t any ‘real’ need to spend more than that, in yer average home. Spending loads more isn’t really going to ‘improve’ your enjoyment of music by any quantifiable amount. Are you listening to the music, or the ‘sound’?

Rich has a finite amount to spend. He knows he’s not going to be able to afford the best in H-Fi gear; he just wants something fairly decent to listen to choons on. For his purposes, I’d say there isn’t really a great need to spend more than £200 per bit.

Cripes you don’t half talk crap. How does £200 become the appropriate level for everyone? FFS. *leaves forum for another while*

17mm = 1 degree on average

I got a Philips re-chargeable one from ebay, works a treat (although the brand got a slagging on here on a similar thread). No vaccuum though.

Beards rock. Mine’s now on my intranet pic 8)

I’ve not read the whole thread but my views (from being “into” hi fi, having designed speakers for a living and also worked in retail” are as follows:

To say that there’s no point in spending more than £200 on any one component is silly. It may be the case in a particular system or where set up is comproimised – but with everything this is a sliding scale.

I wouldn’t buy anything NEW without listening to it with your amp and ideally source. If you CBA researching there are alot of sh bargins on ebay if you want to risk something.

I have heard decent cable make a huge difference – but moreso on better systems.

What he said – it’s always going to be possible – the cost depends on how solidly everything is attached.

ta all, v helpful. Looks like more skim plastering for me!

Well it’s not tapered.

I dunno if the plasterboard I bought is the correct type to be painted over.

Cheers DAve.

My skimming is top drawer Steve. I have pics!

Guess I could be OK as I am unlikely to want to strip the paper – it’s just be lining paper to paint over.

That is my fear 4 ones, does the pva create a separate layer or effective seal.

a millisecond of average crashing in 2:46 of video…

I have one. Barely ridden it so far.

Probberz my 1990 Specialized Stumpjumper Epic

To me, saving weight on transmission components is not value for money – they need to be replaced frequently and are not rotating at the perimeter of the wheel like tyres adn rims.

Cheap and cheerful for me every time – save moolah for other bits (or other parts of your life – for those that have one)

I paid £90 for one a while ago, he was crap. Previous one charge maybe double but did more than twice the work, to a higher standard. This in Edinburgh.

If the qr is holding properly then 1-2mm axle in the dropout should still hold.

Ha ha snaps is pwned. plinker.

I’ve seen this work but would not guarantee it.

Kool stop – lasts longer, works well, looks bad tho.

I would try adn get a reccomndation.

A smaller firm that does private client work should fit the bill. I ahve been told this is not a complex area by a colleague but it’s not my area of practice.

How does a stainless chain last longer? Is stainless not softer than regular steel?

“…higher frequency noise which isnt ironed out by forks very well and acn be amplified by the tyres airspace in a resonant sort of fashion”

Yup, some folk think they know alot and talk utter poop!

Don’t think there’s anything to trump your agreement.

(ex property litigator)

what wwaswas said – any new shimano chain I have seen comes with a joining pin in the chain (including several thousand from my wrench days) ready to be joined.

I am not talking about using an “old” one.