Good, bright, stand up to the elements. Heavy on batteries so use good quality ones.

Just realised mine’s a 29er tyre too!

I’m getting confused available in single or dual compound i.e. Enduro or Trail Extreme

(Just realised I’m probably using the wrong word in ‘ply’ and actually thinking about it not sure if compound affects weight)

Was talking about Chunky Monkey’s

Is that dual-ply Nick? Single ply version on the scales at work were 990g.

Mine arrived today, do the weenies want to know the weight?

Looks good, has a very strong smell. 😉

Have no idea when I’m going to get a chance to fit/ride it this side of xmas. Possible debut at HTN.

Arriving January, Reynolds 725 goodness. Slight slope on top tube mind you but not much.

Also maybe consider a Surly Pacer?

This is assuming that 1 1/8″ threadless is ok and you don’t want to be restricted to 1″ threaded like the frame you posted.

Bought a WI eno eccentric hub from Charlie recently and the service was great. Definitely recommended.

First timer here too.

Will be on this with 29er wheels/tyres.

Sense of humour, check! I’m terrible on a mountain bike and am rapidly running out of time for ‘practice’ before hand.

331 is from where the wheels touch the ground, not a random hovering point?

Mattsccm ‘roughstuff’ is even less cool than touring.

I’d like more Cyclocross please! 🙂

Oops sorry missed that detail. Too many bloody variants! 😉

http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s107p2630

Don’t believe the description just realised its wrong*, we have stock of gs mechs.

*it will be changed shortly

Great article, and highlights why ST isn’t just another cycling mag.

Bottom bracket axle length is specific to the chainset not the frame.

You want a Stronglight impact or XD2 double with dural rings from Spa Cycles for £50 and a Stronglight JP400 107mm bottom bracket (with plastic cup) for £10 (or you could try your 110 to see if it works/the chainline is ok).

For disclosure purposes I do work at Spa but I am answering the OP and it’s not like I promote the business on here all the time.

Tracey what model Thule rack is that?
(Can’t seem to find a 4 bike towball mounted rack on their site)

I’d concur with the 2-3mph drop in average speed suggested by the OP, probably due to the reasons given. I did however record my fastest time home one night about 3 weeks ago when all factors (wind/temperature/level of tiredness/traffic) seemed to conspire in my favour.

I know I know, I wasn’t being entirely serious because I couldn’t envisage anyone actually using one on a DH bike. I’ll get my coat.

http://www.paulcomp.com/thumbies.html 😉

A quick scan of the distributors catalogues suggests no.

It doesn’t matter, in other words.

Maybe, but then aren’t you ignoring the repeated stress (either tension or compression) that the spokes are undergoing when braking, pedalling which could then lead to spoke failure?

It probably doesn’t matter, however if you’re carrying a heavy load (rider and/or luggage) and you want a ‘belt and braces’ approach I’d do it as there is nothing to lose (as far I can see).

hahahaha skimmed past that advice re: alloy nipples! I agree total crap.

thisisnotaspoon you are talking about ‘dish’ and offset of spoke holes.

Generally (as far as I understood it), you want your spokes orientated to oppose the forces at the hub, on a rear disc wheel that means that you build them asymetrically so as to oppose the driving forces on the drive side and the braking forces on the non-drive side.

Top section of this is pretty easy to understand. http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/bikewheels.htm

There is also a good explanation of this in the wheelbuilding section of the Zinn and the art of mountain biking book.

This is not making me looking forward to the commute tomorrow morning! 🙁 Flatterm main road but slightly longer route I think.

Pete at Psychlosport does a shop ride on a Wednesday evening I think. Give him a ring.

Agree with Northwind not a fan.

Colour scheme is horrible. Geometry looks odd (could be the angle) and personally I’d have proper downtube shifter bosses.

But the only person who has to like it is the person who’s bought it.

Dawes Karakum? Well under budget (on offer) and then add a dynamo front wheel if you wish.

Dames Nomad if you must go the Alfine route but the gearing isn’t low enough and you’re stuffed if it breaks on tour.

In winter many people want to run wider tyres, mudguards and lower gear ratios to compensate for the inclement weather and less than favourable road conditons. This isn’t possible on a lot of road bikes, hence the ‘winter’ road bike with mudguard bosses, wider clearances and different component choices.

If it’s just fireroad/gravel then depending on how rocky it is I maybe wouldn’t even go for an MTB tyre. Get some Marathon Extreme’s in 700x42c or 700x35c, roll really well on the road and are pretty good for grip on fireroads/gravel. Schwalbe appear to have discontinued them for 2013 but there is stock out there on sale still.

Isn’t some of your choice going to come down to what actually fits you? Not all bibshorts are sized/cut the same.

Fibre Flares are good but tend to eat batteries.

I use mine with a Light and Motion Vis180 which I can’t fault beyond the price!

No but it’s easier to have one collection/account for everything and the price differences usually evens out across a spectrum of package sizes.

Most smaller companies don’t have the technology CRC does which enables them to automatically decide on which carrier to send out a package with.

Paul at Back On Track in Malvern?

Anyone bought that HAKKALÜGI yet?

I’m rather hoping they might. I’ve been very strong so far but I can only hold out for so long…

Thank **** I’m tall is all I can say.

Dirtwheels Cross in Otley

My second ever race and achieved a good solid last place.

mainly men who want a bit more macho from their Brompton, who miss their agile, quick road bikes on the daily Brompton commute, and want a bit more ‘boom’ in their Brompton.

Don’t they buy an Airnimal? 😉

Damitamit. Hongfu or Dengfu? Plus what does ELRM stand for then? 🙄

Bend the end of one of the B&M or Schmidt v-brake light mounts over so it’s horizontal and then screw the Allen bolt through it into the bottom of the light?

Or if you have lowrider bosses get an ID/Passport fork light adaptor bracket that screws into it and mount it there?

Always keep in the back of your mind that if you’re on the outer chainring and you try to shift up against the stop you will most likely wreck your shifter.

Info including location is also on the British Cycling website in the events bit.

If you’re riding 6 miles road and 4 miles towpath and the towpath is muddy then look at Schwalbe Marathon Extremes (700 x 35 I’d say).

Not cheap but roll surprisingly well on the road and pretty grippy in mud, I have ridden cyclocross (slowly) with one on the back and didn’t find it bad at all.