Still need to persuade the other half but if I manage it I’ll be on a singlespeed cross bike. It’s not that technical round there after all, however I’m sure I’ll be walking both up and down hill.

Or that bike designers actually know much when it comes to engineering.

If I remember correctly generally breakage at the nipple is usually too much tension.

At the elbow is fatigue stress, due to inconsistent tension across the wheel.

In the middle is something in the spokes or scratch your head and be baffled.

(Someone correct me if I’m wrong)

Plus toys19 the two are already out of line when on the same side as front and rear hub dimensions and dropout spacing varies. ARen’t they? So would Moving it less than 100mm further across be significant?

Where are the spokes breaking? e.g. Elbow, nipple, halfway along?

Can someone explain reciprocity in simple terms and why it dictates discs on same side?

I reckon there’s a market for someone to run an ‘engineering for frame designers’ course.

Did a few races up here (yorkshire) last year and they were great fun, pretty friendly and you just have to remember to get out the way of fast guys. Good support/spectators too, with some good banter.

Aim to ride/race a lot more this year. As said BC website will list local events.

trail changes, HA and offset stays the same. I think.

Yes that’s what I said up there…just doubting myself/thought I’d missed something obvious. 🙄

Wheelbase will stay the same too, your contact patch with the ground will increase though.

ha will change too, slacker?

How?

If you put switch from a 26″ 2.4 on the front and rear to say a 650b 2.2 on the rear and a 650b 2.4 on the front then yes it would be slacker by a tiny amount, but if you are increasing both wheels by the same size you’re raising the rear the same distance as the front so not altering the head angle surely? Or am I being thick somehow?

What is the current drop because from the picture they look pretty shallow already!

26″ to 650B = 559 to 584 ERTRO (actual wheel diameter will depend on tyre size)

Your raising the bottom bracket slightly and increasing the trail although if you’re reducing tyre ‘width’ from 2.4 to 2.2 (58 to 52/50) then that’ll offset the impact on the trail. So it probably will make bugger all difference.

Head/seat angle will stay the same won’t they?

Shibboleth did you tell them that you needed the items for the weekend? Sounds to me like they were out of stock but knew they’d get them in within 1 or 2 days and out to you as soon as they did, so didn’t bother to contact you to say there would be a delay.

Yes by 74p, but not if you’re spending under £50 as there will be carraige. Damn you Wiggle and your free delivery. 😉

The light and motion vis 180 mentioned above is really good in my experience. The mounting is almost too secure as I struggle to remove it without slamming my hand into the bottom of the saddle when it finally releases!

If you’re racing I apologise in advance for being a mobile obstacle.

I have used the generic one but front of tricross forks is flat, and the generic is designed for curved crown. I had to use a longer bolt I think with a ‘top hat’ allen key head (like you get on caliper brakes). Also when I stripped the bike recently a big bit of paint fell off the forks where the curve had pressed into it, going to file it flat before I refit.

I got mine here http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s101p1809 becuase erm it’s my work.

Thanks for the offers to meet up and ride, I will probably be in touch in the future. Sadly a lot of my rides are last minute depending on other commitments, Sunday’s are generally out as it’s the day we go out and do things as a family.

Oh and I ride a bizarre bike (see the 29ers thread) for varying reasons so you may not want to be seen dead with me. 😉

Don’t have a pic of my road bike at the mo, sorry.

I do 😉

Don’t have a pic of my road bike at the mo, sorry.

I do 😉

Avoided the Tong side so far as the routes I’ve walked round there are possibly beyond my skill level on a bike!

Sancho is there an offroad route from Horsforth to Adel/Meanwood? Used to live in Meanwood so know around there a bit better.

Will try to get out at the weekend and have an explore. 🙂

If someone sends me a GPX could I load into Garmin connect to get an idea on a map and could a kind soul do that?

I know some of the Chevin stuff (or know who to ask for that area), wanted to avoid having to climb that hill up to Yeadon! 😉

Actually got out on the bike off road for an hour on Saturday, remembered how bad I am when the trail points down for a decent distance at a gradient I’m not comfortable with even when it’s not particularly technical.

Proposed route back along the canal was shut but followed two other guys on mtb’s and found a bridleway I didn’t know about.

Only took one photo.

Hopefully off out again tonight though for my first night riding experience…wish me luck! 😉

That my office has no windows. 😉

On the whole its ok, some mark ups can appear a bit steep. I’ve worked in worst industries/jobs though.

It is the chainline that will probably be the issue. With an mtb chainset the road mech probably won’t swing out far enough to get to the big ring. Or if it does the chain will rub on the bottom of the cassette.

Plus as mentioned the cable pull is different (unless it Sram 2×10).

Look at an Exal LX17 rim. Strong, not stupidly heavy and not expensive either. 17mm internal section so will happily run anything from 25c to 45c.

Tektro R365 or R369 brakes have a 55 -73mm drop and are good for putting 700c wheels in 27″ frames or there are some dirt cheap Alhonga ones you can get but they’re a bit flexy in my opinion. 27″ wheels may look right but decent quality rims at a decent price are hard to find. If it is 120 or 126mm rear OLN and you want gears you can still get screw on hubs but be wary as the cheap ones have poor bearings and no sealing, also free wheels aren’t the best as lower grade these days. You can space a modern shimano road hub (e.g. Tiagra) to 126mm by removing a spacer and cutting the axle down but it will increase the wheel dish.

There is a (UCI) rule in the Senior nationals that if you get lapped you get pulled out (or something to that end).

Not ‘technical’ in an mtb sense but riding down the bank in muddy conditions and going up again won’t have been easy.

Board placement was really interesting, definitely intended to force riders to dismount.

Twitter seems to suggest there is going to be a Ridley bikes stand so I would assume there will be a few.

In the same boat as FOG although it’s possibly karma for being lazy and not riding enough in December

Billy’s say ‘special order’ aka no stock with them or distributor.

Your first issue may be finding someone with stock of the N-gear jump stop. Distributor has none and no eta, and I can’t seem to locate any.

Any one know an alternative?

Oooh date change means I might be able to make it. 🙂

Time to convince my g/f that we need to go and see my parents (who live in Dorset) and as we’re there ride some bikes!

Just imagine being repeatedly laughed at as you fall exhausted into frozen sh1t.

I can do that. 8)

Someone video it for first timers who can’t make it but want to see what they’ve let themselves in for 😉

I have V-Brakes on my pompino and they eat rims.

Can anyone come up with a ‘scientific/engineering’ reason why this would be true?

(not taking the piss can’t think of one myself)

barrykellet are you using the same brand pads in both?

Sorry that isn’t much help to the OP, CR720’s have always done the job for me. Thinking of switching to v’s for my new s/s build though, which means I’ll have two sets of CR720’s in varying conditions which someone can have for postage if they like.

Schwalbe SV17 (28-45) Presta or AV17 Schrader?

Ive seen people with single front ring have the guide (mtb style front mech replacement) jam with mud.

Bugger, maybe double chainguards is the way to go on my singlespeed build then.

As far as I was aware you need a tool that will hold the blades in line whilst you turn the nipples.

Has anyone ever had a physical visit from the PRS or PPL?

Bazz interesting, it is just that bit of rubber over the end which seals it so I wonder if it’s because I run mine on a bag sideways rather than up and down vertical. Have taken them out in torrential rain (of which we’ve had a lot this year) with no problems at all.