richw927, what does the Trailblazer measure at on a 35mm external rim?

I’m assuming here that those above talking about 30mm rims are also talking external width.

This is how I’d go about it. Not sure why it would need more than 2 spoke lengths, but I may be missing something very obvious…

Looking at it in practice I’m not sure it will need more than 2 spoke lengths, possibly one if the wheel has little or no dish.

Also decided that the 1st part of my previous post/suggestion is wrong, the tensions would be all over the shop. Rotate the hub slightly and split the difference is the way to go. As someone said before me!

Actually in option 2 wouldn’t all spokes be the same length?

You could sit down and do it by trial and error but it’s going to take a lot of time unless you get lucky!

P.s. Whoever designed that rim needs shooting.

I’ve never done this but this is my guess based on my experience and knowledge of the theory. All the hail the internet! 😉

This is a standard wheel viewed from the drive side.

If the hub flanges are not central on the axle then the drive side should be as above but the non-drive side will be rotated anti-clockwise so the yellow/red and blue/blue spokes hit the rim at the same point. This means the yellow spokes will be longer and the blue shorter on the non-drive side. Which would mean 2 different spoke lengths on the non-drive side.

If the hub flanges are central on the axle then it’s possibly best to split the difference so the drive side rotates clockwise a bit and the non-drive side anti-clockwise from the ‘norm’. This should mean 2 different spoke lengths on each side of the hub but they should be the same each side (I think!).

Why this won’t work:
1) With 2 different spoke lengths on the same side of the hub, can you get the tension right?

2) Depending on the distance of the spoke hole from the edge of the flange/angle of spoke out of the hole and then bent over the flange – there may be too much flange in the way when you rotate the hub for some of the spokes to easily exit the outer hole and reach the rim. The large rim width helps you here though.

C’mon STW pull that apart. 🙂

Another option, lace the non-drive side 2 cross? Would this help matters or improve it? (my brain can’t visualise that)

I’m not suprised your wheelbuilder said no, this would melt anyones brain for correct spoke length before you even got near actually building it!

Pretty sure the headset is the type for a 44mm headtube. Zero-stack upper, external cup lower.

A Chris King inset 7 for example or like this; http://www.evanscycles.com/products/m-part/elite-x44-headset-ec039857?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=SearchVoice&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default

Pressfit92 uses a 24mm axle so at a guess a standard GXP bottom bracket will work…don’t quote me on that though!

Calling Spa shouldn’t be a roulette any more but if you want to just ask for Ben (which is me).

Stronglight and Spa XD-2 cranks are indeed all square taper.

Mostly offroad bike-packing this year.

Dales overnighter in March
Leisurely TCW there and back in April
WRT

and then there is talk of a 6 day trip round mont blanc in August
1-2 weeks in Scotland on road was also mentioned at one point.

I really need to persuade work to give me extra paid holiday to ride my bike as ‘training’/research. 😉

How stable are those Alpkit gas tank bags? I had a little experiment with a Topeak ‘tri-bag’ but it just wobbles around and ends up sat at a jaunty angle.

Here’s my bike in road going set up, losing the panniers and getting a frame bag for off road.

Sorry to bump this (and haven’t posted in an age) but can I just check I’m not the only person who is actually planning to have at least a small sleep on the 200 route?

Headfirst don’t forget the last change qualifier, you never know.

There is a very obvious danger of eating and drinking far too much between races! I think finish line vomiting has been mentioned elsewhere. 😯

The non-drive side drop-out looks like you would end up with the calliper and seat stay hitting each other when you slide it back? Or is it my eyes/the angle?

Mcmoonter I meant at the back, 😉

At the front yes you’ll probably have to use a spacer (is the one supplied with Tubus racks not wide enough?), where to attach your mudguard stay without it fouling the disc calliper is the real challenge.

Sorted. 🙂

Ok, erm and if you’re in the first moto when would you find out if you’ve been picked for the last chance heat?

For some of us there are other things we have to fit into our weekends along with bike riding. 😛
(Not planning to turn up, race and go again, but don’t think the family will want to hang around all day)

Why didn’t you use the rack mounts on the frame?

Will we find out in advance of the day what moto we’ll be in?

Somehow I got talked into entering the Seniors, I’ll be the guy on the single speed who looks like he’s going backwards compared to everyone else!

Beer hand ups gratefully received 😉

If it’s 700c the op is looking for stock of disc trucker frames is low in the uk until June. I.e. if you find one in your size buy it!

Touring bikes tend to have a 135 rear end so chainline isn’t too much of an issue with an MTb crank (may need to space bb depending on she’ll width) but stato is right it’s getting your front mech to work if it’s a road one.

Rigida Chrina or Exal XR2, cheaper than an Open Pro, just as good. Some might even say better.

Certainly didn’t make things easy! Still, it was a nice friendly bunch at the back, couldn’t have asked for a better queue on the 1st lap

Too right! It’s quite hard to race people when you’re having a chat about something or other at the same time! 🙂

184! I’m pleased with that but starting to think starting in the cat 6 at the back was a mistake. Top 150 to aim for next year? 😉

Pretty sure I did 4 laps.

That was bloody ace.

Didn’t crash and I got some air on the jumps, I’ve never done that before! Was a bit of a chicken on other bits mind you.

Thanks to all involved in organising it.

Google shimano tech docs. Most likely listed on there.

I’d be surprised if you could get anything more than a 25c tyre in most modern road bikes. Also your brakes will clog in minutes if it’s muddy. There was a guy racing at temple newsam last year on an old steel road frame with calliper brakes and he didn’t seem to be enjoying himself!! (That was a pretty dry course too)

The other way round, light road wheels in a ‘cross bike is a much better idea imho

I’ve just got some ‘thick’ sealskinz socks from work, dry and sunny in the sky but still cold! (and wet and muddy on the ground)

If it’s as muddy as expected from experience my SPD pedals are going to become flats after a couple of laps.

Mine.

With Marathon extremes

With 29er tyres

Going to experiment with 28c tyres when the weather improves

I wasn’t looking forward to dragging myself out of bed at 6am on my day off, but this has got me looking forward to it all over again.

Best start warning the gf how much mud the bike is going to deposit in the car on the way home.

Schwalbe Durano, roll well, good puncture protection and last a long time.

Hahaha bloody hell, you didn’t mention that. I feel your pain working out box sizes sucks.

What size box does an on-one fatty ship in?

From memory a Dawes box is approx 180cm x 30 cm x 80 cm. They’re not fully built but pretty close (bars off, steerer turned, saddle/seapost out, front wheel by side). Can measure one tomorrow if you want.

Interested to see how big a wiggle box is.

Ahem lets try that again

25 miles in the dales on the road yesterday.

Mount for 200, 500 and 800 are the same never seen a watch strap but with a spare plastic mount and a canvas watch strap should be simple to make/badge one.

I think Raleigh USA is a separate entity to Raleigh UK and do different (better?) bikes.

I’m not being thick in asking is that am or pm?

Shimano 10 speed you have to use a 9 speed mtb mech (XT works well) on a triple for mtb rear cassette. New 105 mech will go up to 11-32 on a double.

Sram wifli mech do 11-32 but the mtb mech have the same pull so you can go up to 12-36.

Racing Ralphs or cx comps would work but for a commute I personally would want more puncture protection.

What is that green bike?

Standard frame and White Industries hub?

Marathon extremes