Not quite. Cross hair is manual spinning, the triangle is auto spinning, but both still spin.

So it does. Although if you press it again it does put it back straight again. There needs to be another mode.
Or maybe I’ll just try to get used to it. The auto orienting mode might be useful when I’m somewhere I don’t know. It just makes maps you are already familiar with really confusing.

Is there a way to stop the map rotating on OA so that North is always up?

Press the button that centres the map on your current location again. There appear to be two modes, cross hair which maintains North up, or bishops hat which spins the map until you’re sick.

Generally I’ve found the OA app to be okay so far, but I’ll still use Viewranger until the day it dies as my own form of protest.

I’m not sure why it feels like people think I’m in the wrong for trying to do things right

No one is saying you are wrong for wanting to get it ‘right’. We are all saying that your expectations for what is ‘right’ are too high for the cheap gauges you are buying (you didn’t use the word cheap, but you are buying cheap).
Better, more expensive alternatives are available, but the majority of users don’t want or need better.
The bigger issue seems to be that the commercially available gauges keep breaking and that generally presta valves are very difficult to take pressure readings from without bleeding lots of air off. Some of the responses further up would seem to be useful in that respect, some recommendations for types of gauge with a air chuck that is easy to use, how not to get sealant in the gauge and advice on using a in-line gauge on the pump so that you don’t lose air checking after pumping.

I don’t get why people don’t want things ‘correct’.

I think the point you are missing here is that the gauges you are using are ‘Correct’ [within an acceptable margin of error].
Every measurement device has error. The challenge is to select a device that is suitable for the task you need it for. For most people the cheap gauges you can buy for bicycles are good enough. there is no reason to expect the Park one to be any better than the cheap one from Decathlon, they are all made to the same design, and probably all in the same factory. I very much doubt they are tested, and certainly not calibrated. They are all cheap commercial grade gauges.
If you want more accurate, and there is nothing wrong with that, then you will need to pay more. A lot more, see my link above. And if you want it to remain accurate, you will need to send it off for regular recalibration, like any other measurement device that requires accuracy. What you want is available, if you are prepared to pay for it.

The only way to ensure that you are taking accurate and repeatable measurements is to have a device that can be calibrated, and to send if off regularly for recalibration. Something like this should do the trick:
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/m-a-horne-professional-digital-tyre-pressure-gauge-245152/

Alternatively just find a way to deal with it mentally. Perhaps buy a gauge that reads in Bar. You’d be less bothered by a 0.2Bar difference.

Does the hub itself have any part numbers on it? That would make your search easier.
Unless it’s a particularly weird hub, if it’s just the cone, you’ll probably find most hubs use something close. You need a bike shop that is willing to search round in a box of cast off parts for a cone that will fit. If you put up a picture of the hub/cone someone on here might be able to help.

Apparently more people have access to a phone than to a toilet. Every populated place you travel through will have some means of charging phones. Sometimes a just a little stall by the side of the road, but you won’t be the only one looking for power. So a battery bank, or even the internal phone battery may be enough for you. Only you know how often you will be encountering civilization, I’m not familiar with the Spiti area. I have travelled a lot in the mountains of Asia though, and I do use a dynohub (Shimano-Kemo-phone) to charge during the day. I probably don’t need it, but to finish the day with a fully charged battery would reduce anxiety significantly, especially if you rely on the phone for navigation (I don’t). I’ve not yet had a dynohub fail to spin (although one failed to generate power when new and got replaced).

A circuit diagram would be most helpful, but it doesn’t seem too tricky to use the main beam feed to control a relay to switch the PVM unit into the earth circuit of the light. The bigger question might be, why? If you don’t want the brighty lighty, don’t turn on the brighty lighty?

I’m certainly no jeweller, but we have some of the fingerprint pendants you speak of. As far as I can tell they are made using a silver impregnated clay, which can be easily molded and shaped, hence taking on the fingerprint impression. It is then fired at a suitable temperature to burn away the clay and bond together the silver dust (sintering), leaving a solid silver piece. This means that the original maker, or anyone with similar tools or skills would probably not be able to modify it. You would need someone who can work in metal and either grind or polish to remove and add a new engraving as RoterStern describes above.

The bits you need all appear to be available separately from various sellers on ebay.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265344075928?hash=item3dc7bd4898:g:ZM0AAOSwVIJhWzdP

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=pedal+thread+insert+9%2F16&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=unior+pedal+thread+insert&_osacat=0

Is this for a workshop that is shared by other people? Or your own tools?
If the tools are shared, remember that they’ll only last about a month before all the most used ones are missing. It’s not worth getting anything too long lasting.
Buy sets so it is clear when one is missing. If there is a job that regularly requires a particular tool (like adjusting something), buy one just for that and attach it with a bit of string, it stops them being taken out of the sets and not being put back. You’ll still end up ordering a bulk load of 10mm and 13mm sockets and spanners every year though.

We have an account with RS components and get most tools via them. They have a range of good brands (Teng, Facom, etc) but also their own ‘RS Pro’ range which seem to be quite good.

Anyone gone from Utility Point to EDF? I’m still waiting for EDF to contact me.

Yes, I was contacted by email by EDF on the 21st, and by UP on the 23rd. Just a generic email, so I would expect you should have had something by now.

What you suggest sounds like a good start, no pun intended. There are many different types of induction motor, but many rely on a centrifugal switch to engage some extra starting windings. In a dusty environment the switch contacts often get clogged up. Clean and degrease to ensure dust doesn’t stick and then give it another go. Also check the visual condition of any capacitors. Leaks, bulges or burn marks. Remember that capacitors hold a lot of energy. Don’t go near any of the electrical contacts unless you have shorted the capacitor to disapate the energy with an insulated tool of some sort.

Current = Power / Voltage, so in your case 400 W/230 v = 1.7 Amp,s as you say. A tiny draw for a normal bit of flex (look it up in a table of cable sizes).
You’d be well advised just to chuck it in a bin and get a LED lamp that draws a tenth of the power though. Otherwise their electricity bill will look like they’ve been boiling a kettle all night. Every time a cat stops to lick it’s arse, the meter will spin like the centrifuge scene in Moonraker.

I think it is that very chap (Nathan Millward) who runs a tour company down in Devon, hiring out CT125s. So it must be possible to get them in the UK.

If they are in, or can be put in, Strava then this handy tool plots them all on a map. For free too.
https://www.jonathanokeeffe.com/strava/map.php

Define your problem.
Many camping stoves connect directly to that type of valve (EN417) which is shared by the blow torch type cylinders which I assume you are referring to. Which means you don’t need an adaptor.

They look like fairing washers for motorcycles. Might help your search.
As an aside, are you sure the bolts are M4? They look bigger (or you have tiny hands) and 4mm sounds a bit weedy for holding anything likely to carry body weight.

Another vote for the Halfords double trailer. We used one every day for two years and apart from losing the flag and the flexible spring in the arm being a bit squeeky, it was fine.

I’m not sure trailers are supposed to be used with helments, they have harnesses and rollcages, so adding a helmet just puts heads at awkward angles for no benefit.

I recommend first checking if they are 1/2″ (BMX) or 9/16″(MTB) pedals before buying any new ones…….

I’d love to give that a go. Message me. How do those rod ends cope with the Swinley grit?

What spacers have you got fitted to the BB now?

Can you not flip the bracket you have round so that it fits to the underside of the fork crown?

Every dynamo light I’ve bought has had a bracket included for mounting it to a fork crown. What light do you have?

Sounds like a normal MOT to me. If the vehicle won’t fit on the brake tester they have to perform a road test of the brakes instead. Then most of the time it sits up on the ramps being prodded from below. The tester cannot possibly test every single item in the time allotted, so they mostly follow their nose for the things most likely to fail based on the overall vehicle condition. For example, if they notice a lot of corrosion on the underside they could easily spend half the time prodding the chassis and suspension parts looking for damage and not bother looking at the wipers.

I’m not sure they’ll be allowed to take a generator on the Eurostar. It’s a bit like taking a plane in terms of restricted items.

1850mm sounds about right for a typical 17″ front wheel. How many magnets is the speedo reading from?

Back before LED bicycle lights were even a thing I bought myself a cheap LED Maglight like torch from China and converted it to a Dynamo light using a circuit very similar to Circuit 2 in your link. It did flicker a little at very low speeds, but not a problem on my commuting bike. It worked brilliantly for years until the bike was stolen. I replaced it with a Cyo which I think is fine. Tips? You’ll need to know the forward voltage of the LED used, find the part number and look it up. Also, having a standlight is useful, I run a separate battery powered light as a backup. Something similar to the Lezyne, which might be a better use for it…..

Will your concrete base be strong enough to support concrete block walls?

I’ve had it about 18 years and it was old when I got it. Was used for 6 hour endurance moped mayhem races in the early 00’s. Not all there, but runs. Looks similar to your second photo up there. Have another 2 as spares.

Where are you? I have a FZ50 in need of a home. Berkshire.

Meindl themselves will resole their boots. I think you go through their UK importer Bramwell international. I had a pair done about ten years ago which came back looking like new and had no problems at all with them coming apart.

The Unfair Advantage by Mark Donohue is part biography, part engineering guidance. A fascinating read.

Correctly known as a stud. Not always with the hex socket, but you should be able to find some:
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p70719?r=googleshopping&rr=marin&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=Cj0KCQiArqPgBRCRARIsAPwlHoUgcHslPucyck9u3NjGtt81MNzw5o07agdVk9yKjqEStNi-KSUukJIaAjQWEALw_wcB

The photo with the number ‘5’ clear as day in the centre?

These people should be able to help you.

A homepage section

Sounds like what you need is like a welding extraction duct. Perhaps you could find one surplus somewhere?

Alternatively, I’m imagining an old anglepoise lamp re-purposed in combination with a length of flexible hose……

Check your airlines baggage conditions very carefully. I’ve frequently spent hours of my life with scales weighing everything I’ve got to find out which hat, etc is the lightest, making hard decisions to leave things behind and finally turning up at the airport wearing all of my clothes to find out that they treat the bike as a separate item of baggage and I’ll have to pay extra for it anyway. Leaving plenty of baggage allowance for my main bag and all the things I wish I could have taken.

Or just accept that it will cost you a tiny amount of money in the overall price of your holiday and pay for an extra bag full of food.

I’ve not been for a while but I’d say it’s very unlikely. Do you really need energy bars? Are you going with a tour agency? What are they going to supply?

Dal Bhat and chai are surprisingly filling and energy intense. If it’s good enough to get Sherpas to the top of Everest, it’s probably okay for a bike trip in the foothills.

It sounds like you’re an ideal candidate for one of the hard shell bike boxes available.

You fly often so the expense can be justified, it will protect your bike from the many encounters with airport baggage handlers and to a hotel it will appear as just another (odd looking) piece of luggage that can go in your room.