Squash each link tight with a vice or punch.

“For stuck blades that do not move easily, open and close a few times in warm water. Allow to dry and apply a drop of oil to each hinge.”

https://www.swisstool.co.uk/st/Victorinox-Multi-Tool-Oil.html

You’d need to do some more careful measuring, but this sort of thing is commonly available:

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Engineering-Parts-Chains-/-Links-/-Sprockets-and-Platewheels-Sprockets/c4713_5487_5510/index.html

You may need to get a engineering company to machine the bore of a generic part to fit the shaft.

It may be worth first investigating why the fuse keeps blowing. The most likely reason is that the motor starting capacitor is failing, or the switch inside the motor which controls it. I’d at least carefully check the capacitor for any leaks or evidence that it has overheated. Take care, because capacitors can store a lot of energy even when the machine is disconnected from the mains.

If the hose remained pressurised it would save me at least two or three stokes of the pump next time though.

But then you’d need a valve of some sort to retain the pressure in the pump, when the downstream pressure was lower. Otherwise you wouldn’t be able to get the air from the pump to the tyre when you wanted.  And if you wanted to have a handy reservoir of air which you could supply on demand to the tyre, you might as well pump up a large chamber with an electric motor, so that it is always available. I think you might have just invented the air compressor.

Wouldn’t mind knowing how to remove my track pumps extension without letting some air out.

I suggest that the air you can hear escaping is mostly coming from the pump and hose rather than out of the tyre. In which case, it doesn’t matter.

Many of the crown fitted lights have brackets that can be flipped so that they can be mounted under the fork. Would that solve the problem?

That looks fairly conclusive, but as has been mentioned, it is written on the top side of the PCB. What does it say at the other end?

It’s probably best to provide us with a photo of what you have. Surely you just need a new washer, or to fix whatever is wrong with the one you have?

Yes, the adaptor is sitting in the same spot as the banjo was, so needs to be sealed in the same way.

I’ve never actually seen anything in writing that says space savers are acceptable. Could just be one of those things where car manufacturers just do as they like and the government are unable to do much about it. See also touchscreen controls.

Wheels and tyres on the same axle (i.e the left and the right at either end) must be of the same size and construction to pass an MOT. Which would suggest it is not legal to drive on mismatched wheels/tyres.

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/5-axles-wheels-tyres-and-suspension#section-5-2-3

You’d probably be better off spending your money on a shimano crank to match the BB you’ve already got. As you’ve already noted, they last longer. They are a better design.
If the GXP cranks have any life left in them you could sell them on to offset the cost.

They sound like fence posts to me. Wickes?

From what you’ve shown both the dash and the neutral switch operate as intended.
Since the only difference between the two set ups is that one as a filament bulb and the other a LED, I suspect that is the issue. Possibly the lower resistance of the LED is causing it to behave differently, especially as the neutral switch isn’t simply a switch, it goes through a relay, which also has two diodes in it, plus is wired via the side stand. There is probably a simple solution, but you’d have to carefully work through the circuit to identify which wires are positive and negative under different conditions. If you can’t use a multimeter you are going to struggle to solve it.

One simple solution might be to replace the LED with a standard bulb if possible?

Is the light in the speedo/dash unit a bulb or a LED?
Obviously if it is a LED it will need to be wired in the correct polarity.

Unless I’m mistaken, the free version of Outdooractive does everything you want.

Most taps have two little filters on the inlet (inside the tank). It may be that the ‘On’ filter is partially blocked as uggski says. They can get gummed up with sludge over time, not necessarily solids.
Some can be replaced, or you can blast it with compressed air and agitate it with a toothbrush in some solvent (petrol would be ideal).

Same for me.

I’ve used a company called LaserMaster down in Cornwall for some similar sized sheets in 2.5mm Aluminium recently. The larger one was about £20 and the smaller one £4.
I email them my drawing, they send me a quote. I pay over the phone then they post it out to me. They’ve never mentioned a minimum order charge, but I tend to save up a load of bits and order them all at once. Postage always seems to be just less than a tenner, no matter how much I order.
Remember that there will probably be the need for some hand finishing of sharp edges, etc.
I think they only do metal, but there are other companies out there who will cut plastic sheet, which might be a better material for your usage.

I had the same requirements as you. I bought one that looked almost identical to the one pictured. I didn’t care about any features, all I needed was an amplifier basically. What could possibly go wrong?

Turned out the volume control only had two settings, barely audible and brain bleedingly loud. Then it broke entirely and refused to do anything but play static, six days after fitting it.

So I went to halfords and bought the cheapest stereo they had. It’s precisely ten billions times better.

M20x1.0mm

But there different sizes. M15 and M18 from memory.

Having sent scientific equipment abroad for calibration/maintenance in the past, I vaguely recall there being some special customs arrangement for exactly this sort of thing. You have to pay the full amount of duty to someone who holds it until the items return. I can’t remember the details, but I do know that it was such a pain in the wotsits that we mostly didn’t bother. Paying the extra duty cost less than the extra staff time spent trying to sort out the paperwork.

I’m sure Hope have done their calculations, but an aluminium bolt seems ill-suited to this application. I wouldn’t use a stainless bolt either. A normal steel cap screw would probably be twice as strong and barely heavier.
Also, A2 doesnt tell you how strong the bolt is, you need to check the ‘Property class’ of the screw now fitted. It may well be weedier than the original one.

Are the original Hope bolts stainless?

A machine moving company as suggested by Paton would appear to be your best bet. And as scruffythefirst pointed out, it looks like it was designed to be lifted with a forklift under the base without a pallet anyway.

Having said that, from the diagram you have posted, it doesn’t look like it weighs a tonne, I would say less than half that. Are you sure?
It looks like the hopper and motor/gearbox assemblies would be easily removed with basic tools, leaving you with smaller parts which could probably be quite easily manhandled into a hired van.

I should imagine a single can of expanding foam, maybe two, would fill a 30 litre space. Or have I misunderstood what you are trying to do?

Having mice that can switch between two computers, or shuffling multiple keyboards around your desk are the simple solutions, but a KVM is the best way to achieve what you want. It’s a cleverer version of the HDMI splitter pictured above, which also swaps your kb/mouse.

Dual monitor versions do exist, so the only real problem is if you are willing to pay for one.
One picked at random from a google search:
https://cpc.farnell.com/newlink/nlkvmhdmi-22dbl/kvm-switch-2-port-hdmi-dual-screen/dp/CS34767?mckv=s_dc|pcrid|426684131165|kword||match||plid||slid||product|CS34767|pgrid|100371159078|ptaid|pla-915855897585|&CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-SHOPPING&s_kwcid=AL!5616!3!426684131165!!!network}!915855897585!&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_7KXBhCoARIsAPdPTfjr1xlAWbtkJLhsGBCf0REQqIIM2Xp6MkxLfrJPRHuLqEdOTmcqXQMaAv_KEALw_wcB
I’m sure others are available, and for a wide range of prices. Just check that the KVM is compatible with the type of monitor interface you have, or if adaptors are available (VGA,DVI,HDMI,etc).
The simplest solution I’ve found to getting confused between which computer you are currently viewing is to have different desktop backgrounds on each.

Definitely a cable nipple.
Where it is from, who knows. What doesn’t work anymore in his garage?
Tandems often require odd parts, so that would be the first place I’d look.

Friction shifting on the front is simple, even with 3 chainrings. You have ‘all the way’ one direction or the other for top and bottom, plus ‘parallel to the bars’ for the middle ring. Effectively indexing anyway.
However, for the rear thisisnotaspoon has described the problem. Modern cassettes simply don’t work the same way. Even if they did, there are now more cogs and less space between them, which would make finding and staying in gear a fiddly pain in the goobers.
I have a bike with front friction shifting and I have more than one with thumbshifters, but there is no way I would return to un-indexed rear gears.

The internal parts of the fan may only be suitable to carry 3A. No point designing it to carry more. If you relied on the fuse/MCB at the consumer unit, which could be 10A (or much more depending which circuit it it connected to) then the fan would be overloaded in the case of a fault.
The fan should be locally fused similar to any other appliance (which would have a fused plug).

Presumably you fuse the fan, but the light circuit is already fused.
To be blunt, I think you need an electrician.

Are you switching or fusing your fan?

A switch with a maximum current of 10amps means just that. It can switch up to that amount, but less is fine. Like your 13A plug socket in the kitchen can take a kettle at 10 amps, but you can also plug in your mobile phone to charge at 0.5amps.

The fuse is a different matter, it is there to protect the circuit and should be rated as per the instructions, like tomparkin says.

On Bilsteins the ‘thick’ rod you refer to is usually the damper itself. They are mounted upside down. The thin rod still exists, but is inside the yellow metal casing along with the bump stops.

As goldfish24 says, you cannot use that clamp type of meter on the whole lead (live and neutral together). It could be used near your consumer unit though, where the live and neutral conductors will be separate. It will only show your total energy consumption though, like a smart meter.

Why do you want to know?
You might be better off just looking at the AC data plate for it’s current or power rating.

Would be awesome if the LBS did a wedding list!

No reason why not, there are a few online services that allow you to create wishlists for anywhere, online or not.
eg:
https://giftwhale.com/

I we got a angle-grinder as a wedding present. A very useful thing to have around….

I’m not a Volvo guy, hence not knowing much about the options yet, but given that the current engine produced 120-odd bhp when new, and would do low-30’s mpg on a long run, I’m optimistic that I can find something that will improve things. By modern standards it’s not a heavy car (1300kg, ish) – granted the aerodynamics aren’t great, but if I could to 180+bhp and keep the mpg in the 30’s on a run, I’d be happy. I don’t really do any town driving, it’ll only see longer distance stuff.

I had the 2.3L Turbo version of the very same car. It made 182bhp and could just about return 30mpg. It could easily have the boost wound up till the needle went off the scale and bring the total to about 250bhp too. Economy only suffered if you used all that 250bhp. I did a few trips down to the alps for skiing and biking, four people in blue velour-clad luxury and boot space for four full bicycles (important to avoid using a roof rack, I didn’t want to make the economy any worse). I even did a few trackdays in it, for a giggle. Not as embarrassing as you might think, especially in the rain, where the sheer mass and ABS brakes made it stable and controllable. Zooming past Lotuses and Caterhams in a 25 year old estate car with a national trust sticker in the rear window is one of my favorite memories of that car.

Having recently done this job, I found a roller to be completely useless, but a really wide brush very effective. I believe they are called a ‘block brush’, which makes sense. About £4.
A sprayer would probably be very quick, but £50 for a one off job? I’d rather spend it on biscuits.

Just a suggestion. Whatsapp has its own storage outside of what is in the phones gallery. Mine is sitting at about 7 gig. There’s photo’s in there from when I first started using the App. Might be worth having a look in there & freeing up some space.

If you use whatsapp, this.
I have the same phone. You can move the photo gallery and many apps to the SD card, but whatsapp insists on using the internal storage. Every time a mate sends you a video of a cat doing something human like, it gets added to a whatsapp media folder on the internal storage. If you empty those folders of videos and images you will probably find it makes a big difference.

That Surly thing looks like a piece of wood with holes in it.
I suggest getting a piece of wood and putting holes in it. 6mm ply and a pot of paint or varnish to seal it from the weather should do it.