ive got a 32T on my XT double (its a hope chainring tho if that makes any difference)

On the last set I converted to tubeless the tyre was so tight that even when I wedged a tyre lever to unseat a small section it wouldn’t unseat any further. I pushed the nozzle in the gap and squirted the sealant in. By far the easiest tubeless conversion I’ve done. Tyres would pump up without the need to remove valve core and by casually pumping the track pump with one hand.

Wish all tyres and rims were that easy!

JB Kind doors[/url]

possibly out of your price range though

broke the remote on mine recently in a crash. Been using my standard Thomson post for a few weeks now so should have had enough time to get used to it but can’t wait to get my dropper back.

Ive just finished my first build this morning. Although there was a few unknows along the way i found it very easy and just took it for a car park type test ride and everything works purrfect.even the gears which i found were a doddle (1×10).

For rear derailleur this is what i did…

1. Undo cable clamp bolt
2. Tighten barrel adjuster fully then slacken off by a full turn
3. Adjust high limit screw (small sprocket)
4. Pull cable taught (not too tight) and tightenclamp bolt
5. The gear should now shift up
6. Change into low gear and set low limit screw (big sprocket)
7. Adjust B-screw so the derailleur is as close to largest sprocket as possible whilst still shifting proerly.

That method worked a treat for me but im sue there are other ways to set it up too

Even the tubless tyres were easy (ive converted my other bike to tubeless and even tho that was easy enough this time it was stupidly easy-MKii on flows). Tyres pumped up using a track pump without even removing valve core and no soap. Did it in the lounge this morning.

For the Bb press i bought a M20 bolt and 50mm square washers, all for less than £5 and it worked a treat.

Are they Hollowtech 2? If so yes, I’ve just installed XT cranks in my PF30 BB using the sram adaptor.

Not been out on a ride yet, hopefully tomorrow

oh in that case have you considered Hope integrated bash?

a few beers?

I’ve got a brand new Straitline bash 38-40T, never used, bought the wrong size and forgot to send back. Let me know if interested. Oh its anodized orange though, but I think I also have an unused white one kicking about too

Ive gone for a hope chainring on my 1×10 new build with clutch mech. Still in the middle of a build so cant comment on chain drops yet but i ride with guys that have clutch mech and no device and suffer no issues from dropping chains

You learn by your mistakes tho. You learn nothing by paying someone else to sort it

U sure its not a sticker?

jedi taught me in 5 mins. I couldn’t believe I managed it so quick. Still learning to master and control it properly though. But once you get showed what to do properly its easy to pop the front wheel up.

Practice on a flat bit of grass with soft landing

Molgrips… are you anywhere near Cardiff? If so I can recommend Davies Printers, Splott. Very friendly bunch, will even give you a full lab tour showing all the different printers, papers and finishes. Good on cost too

the bike shop at afan? £40-£50

If you were closer to Cardiff I’d offer to get some drawings done for you and sort out the planning application and B Regs.

For planning you need some basic (but to scale) drawings of existing and proposed works. For B Regs you’ll need to show what your proposing complies to the B Regs. Quite easy if you know what your doing, otherwise get an architect / technician to knock up some plans for you. You might also need structural engineers calcs for the B Regs depending on what your planning on doing.

what part of the country are you?

If your having internal insulation you don’t need a specialist company. A general builder will be able to do this. All it is is a plasterboard with integral insulation layer on the back. This can be stuck to the wall using adhesive or screwed to battens.

I’ve no experience of the external insulation system.

is it tight when you close the QR lever? Have you adjusted the allen bolt that’s within the QR lever?

I had a cheapish pair of Vans which had had great grip but were like a sponge in the wet. Felt like I had a brick tied to my pedals from the extra weight of water. I still had them for 2 years though, but had to be replaced as they were falling apart. Now replaced with 5:10’s which have awesome grip and better in the wet than expected.

Is there a way to train them to stay behind?

Ride faster?

Have 203 hope rotors on my five with 32 forks. Its 3 yrs old and had no issues. As above rather be over-braked than under, and its up to you whether you want the extra weight

Double post

I ordered a load of stuff on tue from wiggle, merlin and crc. None have arrived yet. But i ordered more stuff on thurs from the same retailers and they arrived fri / sat. The annoying thing is the stuff i ordered first goes on the frame first so i cant really start my build till they get here.

Unless you specifically paid for next day / express delivery you just have to wait.

Had ceramics in my only bike for 3 years and they still feel like new. If you’re already set on hope you may as well go ceramic? They’re not that much more expensive

Cant remember where i saw them as was looking for a new remote as the problem wasnt fixed after buying the button kit so ive had to buy button kit and another remote.

Have you shopped around? Im sure ive seen them for £27 ish.

will you be using threadlock? if so id be interested to know ich one. Seems to be a huge choice. 242 / 222?

ive assumed the axle and bushings are the same as the originals. Had my other ones now for two years and they only require minimal maintenance and work perfectly fine. Theres not much to them that can go wrong. If they do need stripping down for a clean it only takes 5 mins.

Got a pair of superstar nanos too which are very good for the money

Ive already got a pair of straitline (not the AMP’s) and they’re the best flat pedal ive used. Ive just ordered a pair of AMP’s to stick on my new bike. Hopefully they’ll be just as good

I’ve got an Air9 frame sat at home waiting for the postie to bring me some new shiny bits to put on it. Hoping to get started on my first build this weekend.
My frame also hasn’t got dedicated cable guides for a dropper- not an issue though as I’ll clip it to the brake hose. The headset sounds the same as yours too, just drops into place.

I’m quite confident building it up, but the only part that I’m not so confident in is installing the fork. Cutting it down to length is fine but not sure if I need to face the fork? That might be the only job for the LBS.

Will be good to see your progress.

easy if you have the right tools. I’d much prefer to spend money on tools and diy than pay for a mechanic to do it. Get to know how your bike works and it’s free if you need to do it again

Hope ceramics here. 3 yeras and still going strong

Yeah electrical tape might be an option, what I was really asking is if I needed the rim strips with the ZTR rims.

cheers guys. Converted my Mavic rims but they needed the full kit with rim strips.

I’m in the same boat. Can’t decide between the SID’s of DT Swiss. Would have gone DT but LBS said they’re well known for not being reliable. I have no idea if this is true tho. I’m also keeping an eye our for some new 2012 fox forks.

In work now so haven’t got much time for a proper look but I think it was these

Works out around £450 to £460 ish depending on exchange rate. P&P extra though.

Edit: I use google translate to help with the German

I’m looking for some 100mm travel 29er myself, not that many about. Was considering DT Swiss XMM for around £450 ish from a German bike store. The SID’s are also on my shortlist.

oh you’ve missed last weeks? You can download it on demand catchup (says the mrs)

dont think its on tonight. Back on June 3rd