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Viewing 40 posts - 281 through 320 (of 350 total)
  • Are Welsh Trails Up For Sale By NRW?
  • crashrash
    Full Member

    Flash Charger is genius, specially for tubeless setup and is fine as track pump – do what Pictonroad says and it works fine without having to pump it right up each time. It hardly loses any pressure over weeks. The only thing I would say is a pain is the pressure gauge which may be accurate but is not easy to read and is only marked in 10psi segments. As a result you will probably need a separate pressure gauge as well. Some of the newer versions may have a better gauge – thinking Lezyne with the digital gauge….

    crashrash
    Full Member

    I went from the standard 685mm bars up to a 740 and now a 780 on my FS, Getting through the door of the shed is the tricky bit! Have tried 800 but feels a bit large to me. All personal taste anyway but reckon 740-780 is pretty much bang on. I find I can breathe better as well!

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Was a cynic for ages but then ended up with a tubeless setup on my new MTB in the spring. Fully converted and rapidly. Dead easy. Using Maxxis tyres on Stans rims both TLR. Had no puncture issues and found better traction with lower pressures. Considering topping up sealant at the moment with both bikes having still got liquid after 6 months.
    Bottom line – try it, sure you will not go back.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    cheers scandal!

    crashrash
    Full Member

    does the beaver come up small then? If so it works for me!

    crashrash
    Full Member

    For flat and XC the Kinesis strut is 750mm. Liked mine until I had a massive crash at speed and snapped em. Not the bars fault – just me hitting something very solid very fast!

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Not ridden one but having just bought and being the same size I would size up, then you can shorten the stem and have lots of room on the bike. Mate has a FS Vitus and he ended up with a large despite being 5’8″

    crashrash
    Full Member

    I would head for Kewick – got Borrowdale, Honister and Whinlatter on the doorstep there so dead easy.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Its not on budget but the Kona Honzo Carbon fits the bill – only just out but should be awesome!

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Rascal is spot on – just don’t overdue the tightening and all will be well. Check out You tube.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    it might seem counter intuitive but try the Voodoo Bizango from halfords – Bang on budget and it is a great ride – 29er though. Give it a go!

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Are you desparate for Alu? Cotic Solaris 2 is great, light and steel. Bought one 3 months ago and it has been a revelation. Great fun, quick and way lighter than I thought it was going to be.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Solaris 2 is great all rounder. Slacker and longer than inbred but still quick enough to race on. Love mine!Can run it with 120 or 100 forks depending on preference.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Recent convert and been fine – maxxis tyres on stans flows. Went up happily with a pump and no airshot/bottle. Sealed so well stayed up for 2 days! Problem was getting the sealant in! Had to buy a syringe and take the valve core out as there was no way the bead was coming off the rim. Having said that mate who has racesport contis really struggles and he gets the fluid coming through the sidewall on new tyres.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    I have a T129RS and had the same problem as right in between sizes (6’2″ and 34″ inside leg) – after trying both I went with the XL. The reach is not a problem, there is loads of standover and lots of space to move around. Dropper wise – could go with a 150 drop and it would fit easily even on the XL. Obvs if you can get a trial then do it. But if not I reckon you will be fine on the XL.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Any plated break you are looking at 8-12 weeks but factor in being pretty tentative at first. I had a big off last year and then went back after 4 wks as I had a boys weekend in the lakes. I was pretty tense and ended up over the bars and popped my AC joint (joy). My point is you might mend if you are really lucky but you will not be riding right and if you have another off you could be off the bike for a lot longer – 4.5 months in my case and still not right! Good luck with the break and hope it mends quick and well.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    drop you need depends on the saddle height and how much seat post is out of the frame though 125 likely to be right. I have an XL Whyte with 125 but with me on board could have gone up to 150.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Whyte 905 or any in that range as the frame is the same. Great geometry and it really shows when you ride it. The Bird looks great but I have not dared go up there for fear of another n+1 discussion with the Mrs! I love the Cotic stuff as well and they are also jolly nice chaps. The on -one stuff is fine but sizing seems off – I am 6’2″ and feel they are a bit short so defo size up if you go that way.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    I got a set of Stans flows built up on hope hubs with plain spokes and tubeless tape in for under £400. Wide enough to help and dead easy setting up tubeless. Definitely worth a look as they seem pretty bombprooof. I am 95 kgs with all my clobber on and tend to monster truck it!

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Reckon the hope hubs and flows are hard to beat. Plenty quick and bomb proof plus weight wise mine come in at 1835g the pair with rim tape. All Built up by Dave Fletcher at Velosmith (Plymouth) for under £400. Bit of extra width which I really like.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Done the saved route and used the LBS which offered 0% finance. Last bike (Whyte) was finance cos it was the last one of the right size and I loved the demo! Having said that lots of LBS use the bike finance chaps and it works well. Downside is the temptation of the SC Hightower……..

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Hydraulics have the advantage of being able to still work when the hose goes round corners and stuff. Cable has some limits in this and gets stuck – specially in some frames internal routing. Having said that I am on 3rd reverb in 18 months. I have a thomson which has been fine but it is external routing so no hang ups for cables. Reliability wise they seem much of a muchness and at least RS are easy to deal with.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Tried both methods and you do need to tape both. Gorilla tape from B&Q works well and is pretty reasonable! With a tubeless ready wheelset and decent tyre the tape and a pump should be enough. Where the rubber strip works well is effectively converting any wheelset to tubeless. Basically the rubber strip helps locate the bead so it seals properly. Biggest trick is buying the right width for you wheel. Got a Flash charger as well – work of genius! Mate has an Airshot and he reckons that is good too.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Deepest South Devon we have short bursts of gnar after a bit of work to get there. One woodland bridleway which has turned into a Strava racetrack with my mates – getting silly now as we have halved the time getting down it! Otherwise 30 mins to Dartmoor with the infamous babies head granite marbles and some great techhy stuff around Hound Tor.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Nettles – MTFU, but take cetrizine if it really bothers you. Brambles agree they are much worse though my real faves are Sloe bushes – nice thorns which break off and stay in you.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    What Del said! The weldtite anchovie things are genius.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Had a similar issue with my fireline – great bike but way shorter than advertised so reach is way down. So that is for sale! Ended up going for the Cotic Solaris mk2 in XL to get the reach I like. Building up now but looks great in gunmetal grey! I tried the Scout and it is fun but you would not want to ride it all day – it really is stiff.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    nextdaytyres have them in 27.5 so might be worth a call to see if they are getting any in – worth a try anyway…..

    crashrash
    Full Member

    I’ve had Shimano for the majority of the last 25 years and reckon its much the same quality wise. It all lasts well and seems to work well. The DeoreLX died after 20 years of abuse – it literally fell apart mind half way through a retro race!

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Running with WTB vigilante TCS front and trail boss rear on my FS and they are great. Traction is good and no probs despite me battering them. Previously run HR2 and agree about draggy plus you need to ove drifting while leaning over! Have Minions for winter on the HT and love those so did wonder about the SS version for the back end.
    Would recommend nextdaytyres.co.uk for anything other than the Spech or WTB.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Course if you bought it from the LBS you could have got them to deal with it….
    Who do CRC/Wiggle/tweeks etc use to deliver their stuff?

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Had a 29er HT and just gone FS with one. My preference for combo of speed grip and decent value is Vigilante front and trail boss rear. Love Minions up front as well, and my mate swears by the specialized butcher/purgatory (I think) and all good going up tubeless. Have tried On-one but would say best in dry and could not get them up tubeless for love nor money (though probably more down to my dodgy technique than anything)

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Have to say no – but only because I am not brave enough to try a dream bike knowing I can’t afford it! Love the look if the hightower but…..

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Had one KMC and it was fine. Been using SRAM 975 for my fuel ex with 9 speed XO /XT mix and they have been spot on so may just be a friday job.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Go ultegra. No point in dura race unless you are racing lots.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Previous experience of this in our club is that you should get a new frame. The only real way of telling is a mixture of xrays and ultrasound and even that is not perfect. If the drivers insurance company are informed then they should replace it – otherwise they can be liable if it falls apart when you are riding!

    Watch out for the insurance assessors though – one of our guys got rear ended by a taxi and they sent out someone to inspect the bike. Normally looks at cars, no idea about bikes, never inspected carbon fibre, no knowledge of the material……. yet he is their expert opinion!

    crashrash
    Full Member

    So Scienceofficer – tried blowing up the picture but still can’t make out what the frame is – put me out of my misery!

    Icarus – no worries and hope you enjoy it.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    initially the estimate seems steep but my local chap in Plymouth is about the same – but what he does offer is lifetime truing and great back up. IMHO worth the extra for the service and guarantee.

    crashrash
    Full Member

    Cheers for all the feedback guys! Not sure it has cleared anything up though……

    Icarus – The fireline is a great bike but The sizing seems limited. I tried a mates and it felt way too small reach wise. The reach is limited, specially if you like short stem and wide bars. Unfortunately the On One site does not really help as the reach measurements are wrong! So my advice would be size up and if you are 6′ or more then this might not be the bike frame for you. Otherwise the frame is well made, good fun and calms trail chatter well. If I was a bit shorter it would be a great buy!

    crashrash
    Full Member

    FS will be well worth while. 130mm travel should be fine, specially after a hardtail! I ride 120mm on a 26″ and have a great time. Kit on with a pack I am over 100kg so really the only thing you need to be concerned with is shock set up. Go for it!

Viewing 40 posts - 281 through 320 (of 350 total)