Hora – i was under the impression the 44 and 55 ti’s were fantastic performers and very reliable.

Every fork can have issues – fox forks for example shed their anodizing as bushings run dry very easily and need plenty of servicing.

My 55ti – no problem so far :-)

Wouldnt a cheap chainguide be a better solution to keeping the chain on than an xx1 crank, chainring, chain etc setup?

£400+ VS £15 – £50?

An upper only guide like superstar, mrp, e13 etc

I have done with other forks in the past (boxxer and an old pace fork) and have seen here: http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/marzocchi-44-ti-rc3-140mm-internally-lower-travel-726972-2.html

Adding a 10mm spacer underneath the negative spring compresses the postitive spring by 10mm – coil springs are linear so just back the pre-load off, you can adjust oil height and weight if needed.

I wonder if windwave would sell the 2011 spring assembly though if you want to do it the ‘correct’ / easy way.

Travel is easily reduced – just pop a 10mm spacer underneath the negative spring and reduce spring pre-load accordingly.

Will do mine when they get a stock-oil flush and see how i like it….

http://www.workscomponents.co.uk – cheap(er) and reliable… None of them are exactly cheap i suppose though.

Before doing that, just try tightening the axle nut and pedal body caps up. The inner cap pushes the bearing into the body.

Sometimes thats all you need and your back in business.

Hmm – remind me not to go to stokholm then!

Im short for a bloke too (5 8″ ish) so while not midget i am shorter than average, never had a ‘problem’ with it mind…

When i was a shop lakkie i used to enjoy selling cheap bikes to blokes my height or shorter who insisted on getting a 20″ frame despite me attempting to sell them a 17″ that fit them – they said the 17″ is a ‘babbies’ (get the accent?) bike while proceeding to perch their friend on the top-tube while on tippie toes.

Well i can accept i am genetically inferior to the average 6foot + chav around here if it means i am not lumped with the IQ of a cretin. (not saying tall people are dumb but surely its difficult getting enough blood up there to the old thinking box ;-) )

Most payments made online are transacted by a 3rd party – the site hosts have nothing at all to do with ‘taking your money’ usually. and its why payments are taken instantly.

Think of paypal – funds are moved instantly from account to account and many sites use this method.

A good vendor will notice, e-mail the customer with options and make a refund asap if out of stock and no alternative found.

Show some common sense guys, your expecting every small online seller to have time / staff to go through orders manually transacting them?

Here is the link for the Israeli guy – Saar.
He was great to deal with. Headset arrived within 5 days. Cost $200, which by exchange was about £125.

£125 plus the chance of getting stung by customs? I think ill stick to the Works one and pocket the £50.00 difference to be honest – Plus the works one has its own bearing cover not a generic is one.

I havnt heard of Deckel Maho but it looks very nice, i assume a 200k plus price-tag?

Are you in the aerospace business? – Better uses for that machine that bike parts! Im fairly experienced with 3 axis machines and would love to know how you go about programming a 5 axis machine, mainly cam i assume?

Very nice!

What i would find more frustrating would be him referring to ‘Pure’ as a seperate entity to superstar and that he has to ‘get them’ too look at it, what with his own eyes?!

Same Guy, same company: looky looky: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=61207735

Ive just gone for a Works one after pondering over it on the lunch break work :roll:

Im not paying an extra £100 for 0.5 of a degree, cant wait to get the old school GT back out now!

I did see the ones from Israel, but the price was too much for me, the Works ones are under 1/2 price, especially taking out shipping / duty etc.

The offset bushes look good, but if you have a frame with a specific leverage curve like an intense 951 etc you could mess things up a little – your essentially holding the bike into its travel, its like shortening a shock eye to eye but keeping the stroke the same.

Cheap way of bringing an older frame to life though.

I think cane creek are going to – but i think only these, k9 & CC sell this kind of product dont they?

These Guys are in the unit next door, was after a dropper post for the mega and Superstar had the last ones. Was not easy to get hold of them.

I think there answerphone must have run out of tapes, e-mail server full etc. might be quicker to pop over there

PureRace ARE Superstar – they are one and the same, its no co-incidence they are next-door, its the ‘distribution’ side of Superstar.

As you can see here: http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=61207735

Companies gets busy, im sure if you give them a chance they will get back to you – too much growth too quickly?

K9 dont do a fitment for the 44mm HT i dont believe.

See if http://www.workscomponents.co.uk do one or will sell you two upper cups maybe from their tapered headset version?

I know a guy that got behind with manufacturing some parts owed (a cnc machinist) – He ‘slept’ overnight at work so he could get everything finished in good time for waiting customers.

Im sure he can spare some afternoon, early morning or even night-time hours?

As said – in the real world he would be out on his arse, poor show, afraid of real work or is a few hrs on a computer so tiring?

I wonder how the damp patch got there?

Ive been picking up dirt on and off for years now from the newsagent – never a subscriber – i buy it for the WC articles and bike reviews etc BUT….

I may just do for the chain-device – is Superstar nuts?!! Giving away a product that retails for more than the subscription – its trade price i have on good authority is around the late £25-£28 mark too! (Its a MRControl chainguide)

Mental if you ask me – when word gets around people will just subscribe to dirt and save £18 while gaining a magazine and gree T shirt! Im not complaining, it will go well on my ‘spare’ hardtail!

Hmm, selling at less than trade there from Fudges

Must be OEM equipment, surely. – Not that it makes a difference to the customer, especially when its a chain (so no compliated warranty claims like forks etc)

By yourself, all on your own, you believe you have created a better bearing than skf etc with their multiple million pounds worth of R&D and many many years of experience? This isnt a knock at you, but it is a VERY bold claim, you understand people will be sceptical, no?

If this is true, dont worry about your image etc, get samples off to frame manufacturers (maybe intense, orange, people like that, not the huge corps like specialized) – See what they think? If they are as good as you say and you can provide them at a good price im sure they would be interested – Let product reputation and sales create the image for you – if there good they will sell.

Alligator braided cables set from Clee Cycles…..

http://clee-cycles.co.uk/cc/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/61_62/products_id/255?osCsid=18857587247698cdba2ddb051bf2f0bd

Edit… Also goes well with Hope Braided hose

These guys are selling the same cables for nearly a tenner less – plus loads of colours – http://www.readytoridecycles.co.uk/cablesets-45-c.asp

Ive used them for ages – just changed the inner.

I-links are too expensive for my tastes….

Some of the pedals on Ready to Ride are discounted now too….

I doubt HT 'can only do black' – they do afterall manufacture the superstar pedals so i would think there is only black as thats all they ordered….. :roll:

At the end of the day – buy whatever is cheapest if you like the limited colour – same product.

Headsets should be an interference fit – you can find reccomended specifications on the cane-creek site.

They should require a press to install, never ever a job that you should be able to do by hand! – I would be carefull, i expect it is insertion depth that has prevented damage thus-far and probably keeping your headset preloaded correctly.

Ovalised headtubes are not easy to fix….

If you like a frame or your current frame you could try offset reducer cups – they started doing them for integrated / tapered headtubes now.

http://www.workscomponents.co.uk

I have some in my intense…. love the bike now!

I still seriously want to see the bearing puller.. no piss taking, as i said i am genuinely interested.

Do you have any pictures of it at all?

Im also genuinely interested in your bearing puller, and i expect many people are, especially in industry.

Any pictures of it? – I have made do with a socket the right size, 2 spacers and a nut and bolt….

kaesae – how the hell do my comments mean people are idiots and easily manipulated?

YOU DO NOT WANT A STIFF BACK END HOW YOU PERCIEVE IT it only needs to be laterally not vertically stiff, for god sake use some common sense…

You have an attitude problem, have limited engineering knowlege clearly shown by your completely incorrect understanding of suspension systems, bearings and the transter of impact forces and 'moments and how your 'tight' bearings are detremental to certain aspects of this.

A bearings job is not to ever 'resist movement' – My input on this is over, you have no ability to substantiate any of the claims or opinions of your own, all of which are not shared by anyonre with real knowlege.

If you want this to be a business for god sake please start trying to make a profit too, giving away countless packets of your stock cant help! Please realise your not helpint people on here by giving them bearings, most have plenty enough cash for a bearing change, go to a race if you want to do this and help the kids out who run around on a shoe-string!

Night… im done, good luck with the business, i fear you will need it with the attitude and bulls**t that you spout which is a shame as you had potential to fill a hole in the market,

Your answering statements with questions, it is irrelevant which type of ceramic bearing i was referring to, i was simply stating one of the reasons behind them being used is decreased friction. You have homed in on the science behind a ceramic bearing and avoided my comments about increased friction resulting in decreased performance in a small impact situation – what do you think about this?

Being honest, if my frame was as tight through its movement as the coiler in your video i would suspect alignment trouble – you had to physically push it down, just think how hard the impact would have to be before this initial friction is overcome!

You even put 'tell that to the race teams' when someone makes the same comment as me – As i stated above, race teams run grease, not oil and even remove seals to increase performance, ask them – Chris Kind even mention it in an article about their bb's: for race-day run oil.

What do you think about my comment that your bearings (which are not your bearings at all, they are simply greased packed bearings from a massive bearing manufacturer) will offer increased durability and longevity in poor conditions at the expense of intended performance?

Comment on your theory of bearings 'absorbing energy' as being a good thing – how can this be? A rear shock is tuned and adjusted to react to a moment with consitancy and control. Speak to a frame manufacturer, ask them if bearings are there to absorb bump forces or to transfer them – its like saying a bottom bracket bearing is there to absorb pedalling energy, a time trial rider would have a fit!

I am just offering my opinion and NOT hating but i find your replies frustrating, your comments have no justification. – you have a potentially good service, offering replacement full sets of bearings to suit frames with tooling and advice for fitting – VERY helpfull. All i am saying is dont complicate matters by aggrivating potential customers with arrogant comments about your beings being superior – many have very good techicnal knowlege and know what they need.

Just look here at what this thread has done for your reputation on another forum – Entirely due to your comments: http://www.southerndownhill.com/forum/index.php/topic,224915.0.html

Oh, i run skf beaings in an intense vpp frame, they have been there for quite some time now – play free and VERY friction free operation – I would be happy though not to get them from the bearing supplier and order online from someone like you…

Kaesae.

I personally hate the 'lynch mob' attitude that is sometimes displayed on the STW forum but your opinion that bearings should absorb energy is not correct.

A bearings function in this instance is to allow a movement, and to facilitate this with as little friction as possible. (The reasoning behind ceramic bearings is the same (alongside durability) – less friction due to to a harder and rounder ball with less pitting)

BOS suspension use needle bearing eyelets in their rear shock as an exapmle, to decrease stiction, they are also beautifully stiction-free shocks – By running a bearing that is 'tight' you remove this performance benefit and decrease small bump sensitivity.

Your packing the bearings with grease, i assume by removing the seal, overfilling and re-installing the seal with excess grease being pushed out? – Your improving longevity but increasing friction greatly.

Racers (in WC arenas as time is tight) often remove grease entirely fromt their bearing and run oil – sometimes without the seals to futher decrease friction.

Maybe you need to market the bearings as 'longer lasting' or 'more durable' because on a high-end suspension bike or hub that the owner is racing on they will be happy to replace bearings every 6months – 1 year to have their bike performing as intended.

SKF etc are not silly – they use a certain amount of grease for a reason, i know an argument is they are not designed for 'outdoor use' and this may be true, it is therefore best to look at sealing options to prevent ingress.

Rant over – The bearing kits are a great idea but dont get drawn into overcomplcating things…..

Hope dont use a stock bearing, the bearings in the hope bb fit directly to HT11 axles – most other bb's inc shimano etc use a plastic top-hat to take up the 1mm of remaining space. (26 instead of 25mm if i remember correctly, its 1:45 am and im tired…)

Enduro bearings will fit but you will need to use a non-hope seal, im assuming you used the enduro one?

'Standard' 68052rs wont work without a tophat in the hope BB – Hope use proprietory bearings from a uk bearing company that i forget the name of, you cannot easily purchase the hope bb bearings without going through hope (if at all)

The hope bearings are very high quality anyway…….

All above advice is correct – if you dont have a starnut seating tool (which most dont) and you struggle to get the starnut in you can buy some preload caps which bolt in – i.e hope etc – they make installation a little easier.

Other than that, measure twice cut once…. :wink:

I didnt notice increased female attention etc but they are lighter in the larger sizes (not so noticable for 160 etc)

Performed flawlessly in france for me,(hope) i have hit them a couple of times and found that they are more resistant to bending too.

Worth doing if everything else is top-notch on the bike and to save a bit of weight etc or if your buying hopes and have them as an option.

Used superstar pads on my juicys and found them to be fine really except they wore out a little quickly (organic) where i ride. (which i suppose is expected being an organic pad)

Been using the Alligator ones from readytoridecycles now and they seem to be lasting longer, powers good so no complaints, cheap too – there a 'semi metallic' compound which must be between organic and sintered? – Just waiting for them to be back in stock now as mine are getting a little low…

Another one for Alligator pads here – ReadytoRide are out of the juicy pads i need right now though :-( E-mailed them and not back until the start of december and i need some before then.

Might try the discos in the meantime…..

Ive got the same headset, had it in for 6 months now with no problems so can reccomend them

Got mine for the same price from http://www.readytoridecycles.co.uk though with free postage so £2.50 cheaper ;-) every penny counts….

Beer belly could be a change in posture as said above – tighten up those core muscles?

Often you gain muscle and loose fat and your weight doesnt change, so dont worry about the scales use the mirror.

Look carefully at your diet – Are you getting too much carbodydrate in your diet? – not enough fats / protein?

Just something to think about – You may need it to be reamed as its unlikely the frame manufacturer finished the headtube that deep (it would be murder to get a deep-cup headset into an unfinished steel headtube)

My Alligators have lasted me through the winter so far and look pimp in gold 8)

Cost me about 16 quid too from here: http://www.readytoridecycles.co.uk/cablesets-45-c.asp which isnt bad coming with fancy black ptfe cables.

I bought a raceface deus for about £32.00 posted from here: http://www.readytoridecycles.co.uk/headsets-59-c.asp when my old (cheap) canecreek one died a week ago – Im pretty chuffed with that, they have fsa headsets too if your a bit harder on stuff than me (It did take 2 years to kill my last headset)