I didn’t find the NW boots warm at all. Also hated the plastic sole. I now use Shimano MT91s. They are brilliant, comfy and warm, but the sizing is completely out by something like 3 sizes. I.e. I am a 42 and 45 is the size that fits me.

Definitely try before you buy.

I’ll let you know. I’ve just ordered some from them.

It measures flow rate and temperature of the water. Probably does the same to the return water. It can then calculate how many Wh of energy has been use

Yes it has to measure the flow and the return temperature plus the flow rate. You can then calculate delta T multiplied by volume to get energy. Very common now.

e.g. http://kamstrup.com/2736/MULTICAL-601

I used to be on the Alfaowners forum. They all had good things to say about Gus from Alfatune. It may be worth the trip.

http://www.alfatunemotorsport.co.uk/

Ah, the monster midge of Ardtoe.

Insoles in one foot?

One thing to note though is that after the first year of claiming the mileage allowance relief it will be added to your tax code for the following year so in theory the adjustment will be smaller.

If you do 12000 claimable miles for work then you will be able to claim back the tax you pay on £2600.

I have a company car/allowance scheme. For me if my car costs 50p/mile to run (including insurance, tax, depreciation etc) then 10k miles is the cutoff point above which its worth getting a company car. Chances are your car is costing you much less than 50p/mile to run because you don’t have much more value to lose in depreciation. Obviously that depends on your remuneration for the car allowance.

Scrapers, and I mean woodworking scrapers like these…

You can alter the profile to fit the shape of what you are scraping.

Sorry, I meant Custom box not special.

or select the cell, right click format and enter \[#\] in the special format box.

I’ve done a few HVAC installs in datacentres and never seen anything as impressive as those data centres. Some of our clients in the UK remove light fittings just so they don’t overload the power supply to the datacentre!!!

Colour coded pipes, whatever next.

I couldn’t start an old Briggs & Stratton with a tank of old petrol I had for love nor money.

In the end a fresh tank started it no problems at all. I still have the old petrol for my MSR stove though.

The cable entry point on the Myo XP is a weak point and fails there often. Apparently you can take them back for a replacment from Petzl but I couldn’t be bothered and took it apart to solder the cable on myself. Remove the PCB board and solder the cable on, that’s the easy bit. If I remember rightly you have to slide the cable through the housing before soldering it. Fitting it back together is slightly more fiddly. There is some heat sink compound that you will need to replace/re-use when you put it back together.

I would personally replace the cable with a new one and suitable connector that could be kept dry in a pocket or bag. Any battery pack with should be alright as long as the voltage is 3 x 1.2V ie 3.6V, although the lights blinking to tell you how much battery life you have left probably won’t work as the discharge profile of the Li-Ion batteries will be different.

Just Google the sellers of that F430 first though! They don’t have the best rep.

Freehub bearings?

Another tip with a condensing boiler to increase efficiency is to use the coolest flow boiler flow temperature that you can.

Try setting the flow temperature to 50degC. This means that the heat exchanger tank is cooler and more flue gases condense on the tank reducing the amount of waste heat chucked out the flue.

If 50 degC doesn’t warm your house up enough then you need to increase the flow temperature. As a guide automated systems will automatically control the boiler flow temperature from around 40 degC when the outside temp is around 20 degC and increase it to 80 degC as the outside temps fall to freezing.

Some boilers allow you to buy a module that will automate this process. It’s call OAT compensation.

Have you got a good rim strip fitted? Stretchy electrical tape is no good for example.

I think that unit should work but you would need to wire a permanent live to it too. Your boiler will have a switched 230V supply for the pump.

Wire live and neutral from the boiler to the timer and the switched live from the boiler pump supply to the timer switch input.

Standard boiler run-on time is of the order of 10 minutes.

Nan Bield would be an excellent route from there.

Staveley to Kentmere then East up and over to Sadgill. Up gatesgarth pass. Drop down to Haweswater (possible ice cream van?) then up and over Nan Bield and back down to Kentmere. The Nan Bield descent is a corker.

Possible short cut over Harter Fell to miss out Haweswater but it is cheeky.

I have some northwave celicius boots and they are freezing. I think they do an insulated version now but I was not that impressed with them. They also weren’t that waterproof after a bit.

I now use the Shimano walking boot SPD shoe. They are great, warm, comfy and dry. Although water does get in the tops like any shoe. When they do get a soaking they take days to dry out.

I like the rubber glove idea. I was meaning to get round to buying some dry suit cuffs to do the same idea.

EDIT: Meant to say, surely the “cheapest” method would be to buy some good value comfy normal shoes and glue a neoprene overshoe onto the rand. Common practice for mountaineering boots and gaiters.

Mine did that too, Loco, proivded a new can, all good now.

I’d just use inhibitor.

When taking the old radiator off the wall you can either drain down the entire system or even just the top floor which may be no bad thing if you want to refresh the system. If you don’t want to drain down the system you will have to find a way of getting the old radiator off the wall without dumping all the water on the floor. Unless you have little drain points between the rad valves and radiator which I doubt then my method would be:

1) get some blocks/bricks about the same height as the pipe drops an place them near the radiator ready to rest the rad on.
2) Put some containers and/or rags under the valve couplings
3) Isolate both radiator valves
4) Slacken off both radiator valves but don’t undo completely. You want to be able to rotate the radiator about the valves but not leak too much water
5) Lift the radiator off the wall and rotate carefully about the valves to rest on the blocks so you don’t bend/damage the pipe drops. Make sure the far end of the radiator drops lower so that the water doesn’t leak out
6) fully undo the valves and lift the radiator upside down. You can then lift it away and drain it somewhere suitable.

That looks like a Voodoo full suss. We were out riding with someone the other day who I’m sure said the same bolt came out during a descent. Bloody halfords. Sorry don’t know the size.

I don’t think you can do it. The bearings are not large enough to take a 20mm axle. I think you’d have to machine an adapter to fit over each side of the existing QR axle, but then you have the problem of how to get the hub mounted in the fork, pre-loading and clamping.

I wouldn’t bother personally.

…just checked, a 6001 bearing has a 12mm internal diameter.

http://www.hopetech.com/webtop/modules/_repository/documents/XCFrontHubExploded.pdf

http://www.bearingshopuk.co.uk/6001-2rs-2584-p.asp

I’ve got to do an epoxy repair on my Rev stanchions so mine will be in bits at some point this week, no guarantee they’ll be the right bits though.

Bring the large hammer over, I have a large vice, what could possibly go wrong?

Binners, bring them over if you want, two Gibbons may be better than one.

Sounds illegal to me. Talk to your solicitor. I should imagine you can get the costs of an electrician paid back to you.

I think that 5-0 looks like a fun bike. I certainly wouldn’t be changing it for riding the 7 stanes. I would be changing it if I was racing but I’d take a slow plod up to the top to have more fun on a bike like that on the downs. That bike is more than capable/strong enough for 7 stanes riding.

My P7 is currently sporting a pannier rack.

Excellent stuff binners, I’ll bring my video camera along tonight then shall I?

Mine only moves when I clobber it with a rock, unfortunately this happens surprisingly frequently and is mighty annoying as the chain then gets pinched on the stay.

Not done the descents you mention so can’t help out there but have you done the bridleway descent from Honister slate mines to Buttermere? Easier than Nan Bield to Haweswater and Rossett Gill but very good fun. Try and ride it all without a dab!

You can put it into a good loop including Blacksail and Styhead Gill and can add in Rossett Gill or Black Crags as an additional loop if you want more.

I’ve wanted to try the bridelway over red pike too but haven’t done so yet.

I’ve just got a renewal through Chris Knott brokers. Better than any of the other comparison sites. I used to have a diesel Accord Tourer and really struggled to get a decent renewal price. Now I have a 2.2 petrol Alfa and it’s much cheaper. I have heard that Honda’s are more expensive.

Get signed up to the typeaccord.co.uk forum, that’s how I found out about Chris Knott. There are also links to getting discount genuine parts and service kits from a Honda dealer in Stoke, they’ll post things out.

Joyriders, Mark’s a top bloke and they have a nice new pad near some superb biking.

Should be fine. Dot 5 is not compatible with Dot 5.1 though.

We did that a couple of weekends ago. Started in Grasmere and rode over Dunmail Raise. Headed over Sticks Pass down to the YHA then carried up and over Swirral (!) and Helvelyn to the Comb Crags descent. Interestingly I though the path to Red Tarn was a bridleway on our map but it isn’t showing it as on on streetmap. Should really have gone up Keppel Cove. Comb crags was a good descent. Steep and rocky but all armoured so once you get used to the steepness isn’t too bad.

I ride with a pal who has a nice new Alpine 160. It’s a lovely looking bike and he’s really enjoying riding it. One thing we have noticed though is if you are riding technical rocky trails like many of the lakeland passes then the rear mech and disc are very unprotected.

Rweleese Bwyan!

Having done it about a month or so ago when very windy, I would say clockwise appeared to be the better direction. There were some steep descents (not technical) that looked a bit of a slog to peddle up in the anti-clockwise direction, notably up to Deer scout moor from Cliviger and out of Hebden bridge. The worst hill clockwise is Rooley moor which is long but not that bad. I just carried water with me but you could probably stop at Hebden for refreshments and fill up there?

Clockwise out of Waterfoot there are a lot of gates. I started in Bury and did a there and back to Cowpe before getting on the loop.

There are fancy big tall metal signposts with tyre tread patterns at all the main intersect points.